If the flywheel spins a couple of complete rotations with no funny noise, it should not be locked up. The following supposes it runs after kick starting. Is it more hard to kick due to higher compression after the kit? Did it always spin and start well, before the kit? Original crank and flywheel? Do wires get warm/hot?
Remove the spark plug and see how well it spins without compression. It should, and if it does, let it spin for a while to possibly clean brushes/commutator or see if it could be what has already been posted.
Hooking a large enough temporary wire directly from the battery to the starter can help narrow the problem down to relay/wiring/connection problems as long as the grounding is good. Corroded/pitted relay contacts/connections are common.
If the battery is unable to provide sufficient starting amps, using jumper cables from another stronger battery might help diagnose, but could heat things up and possibly cause damage if there is an electrical or jamming problem. Use caution.
If jumper cables work, with no noticed problems, you might just need a higher capacity battery. To work properly against a harder to spin engine will require more battery amps. AGM mount any position are my favorites. I use these type 9 amp hour batteries to start engines up to 50 hp, even after adapting .25" female terminal ends. Installed vertically on a P.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/192011783141?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Brushes, commutator, and shaft bushings. Shaft bushing wear on either end of a starter has been my most common starter problem. Rotating assembly must be centered and easy to spin (lubricated bushings).