Modern Vespa

Just got my Stella engine back after a rebuild and many mods by Gickspeed; including a Pinasco Flytech ignition system https://www.sip-scootershop.com/main/base/Details.aspx?ProductNumber=25356831&_language=en

I am running an all DC electrical system on this scoot with a Trail Tech Regulator/Rectifier, which requires a floated ground in the stator of the Flytech - thankfully, I found this awesome thread on how to modify a Variatronic stator, which is virtually identical to the Flytech stator. http://www.ilambretta.co.uk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=4551

The only difference is the Flytech stator does not have the wiring buried in electrical potting compound/resin, but instead has a small connector that secures the wires. This difference makes the job much easier. It was a bit nerve wracking to modify a brand new and expensive stator, but all works perfectly!

Great write-up Aerochip! Nicely done.

Although now that SIP has brought out their "Performer" ignitions which come pre-configured for either AC or DC, how many kits will Pinasco, Vespatronic etc sell. Especially as they are cheaper than the competition and produce more power at lower revs. Time will tell I guess.

Thumbs up aerochip!

That SIP unit looks nice. It wasn't out when we put together my build plan but wouldn't have worked for me anyhow because it doesnt support electric start - no teeth on the flywheel.

I think it's been available for a week or something. Surprising they don't do an electric start one.

Anyway, how is yours working out? Are you happy with the results?
I did a DC conversion on my stock setup and it seems to work well apart from probably overcharging the gel battery. But it doesn't care whether there is a battery in the system or not.

Ginch - you helped me out when I floated the ground on my stock Stella stator last year; much appreciated. I love the all DC setup on my Stella hack and will likely also do it to my PX150.

I run a stereo amp with bluetooth dongle, SIP speedo, and all LED lights, including a full set of underglow lighting, additional hack tail light and 3 LED headlights - 1 in hack nose, 1 on front fender that comes on with high beam and 1 as the main unit with hi/lo beam. The all DC system is perfect for this and it works better than my original setup of using individual rectifiers for the LED headlights.

I charge the battery up every few weeks during the riding season, but most of my trips are pretty short - a few miles at a time. At some point this season I will put a voltage / ammeter on it to see exactly how much the draw is.

That looks impressive! Glad I was able to help out back then.

I haven't tried doing a DC conversion on a Stella, but the DC conversion on a US market PX150 was a bit on the tricky side...not the actual part of "floating the ground" per se, but of all of the other things that had to be rewired to make work, such as the electric start motor, fuel gauge, horn, and wiring of the turn signals. I don't know if the same issues popped up with the Stella conversion.

whodatschrome:

The wiring on the Stella conversion was easy with the Trail Tech Regulator. You simply run the two input wires to it from the newly floated stator and then wire both the DC and former AC circuit into it's output. I replaced all the bulbs with DC LED compatible bulbs and the only additional thing I had to do was replace the turn signal relay with one that would recognize the lower resistance of the LED bulbs. Everything else was plug and play.

I haven't torn into my PX150, but imagine it would be similar? Did you replace your regulator or keep your old regulator when you did your PX150 conversion?

It was similar...but way different. The simple part was floating the ground, wire in the TT regulator, and switch out the signal relay (same as the stella). Once that part of the wiring was done, the E-start didn't work anymore...something about DC power going through to the starter relay when the bike is not running, and then once running, AC power now runs though that same relay...or something like that. I spent about a week with a Fluke meter trying to figure out what the heck was going on. And it wasn't just the starter that wasn't working after the DC conversion either. Other parts of the wire harness had to be changed or added to as well. It was a huge pain in the a$$ because there wasn't really any documentation of it being done, so i was flying blind with Italian wiring.

I did LOTS of research before the conversion, and it looked like 98.9% of the scoots that people convert are Stellas, 1% are older P series, and .01% seem to be the '05 PX150.

[quoteI did LOTS of research before the conversion, and it looked like 98.9% of the scoots that people convert are Stellas, 1% are older P series, and .01% seem to be the '05 PX150.[/quote]

Well, that isn't very much fun...will need to carefully weigh the benefits before I dive into this...

Well, that isn't very much fun...will need to carefully weigh the benefits before I dive into this...[/quote]

It definitely was worth it in the end to me, but during that whole week of figuring the wiring out, it sure didn't seem like it.

I'll be doing another DC conversion to a second '05 PX 150 in the next month or so. I'll see if i can document what all wires need to do what and go where.

Here you go Aerochip. I was thinking about you when I created this 2005 PX150 DC conversion thread. It's a walk in the park once you figure out just which wires go where.

Hiya guys, I'm just wondering if you're both still active and on here - after seeing your involvement in converting stators to floating earth for the TT regulator, I would really appreciate some advice about running an all DC system on my Px200.
If I may indulge you with my story so far - I have an old 80's Spanish PX 200 non-electric starter.
Due to dodgy knees now, I have recently purchased a new set of Pinasco cases, complete with a starter motor and a Flytech flywheel/stator set and also a TT regulator/rectifier re-your articles on here . . .
Whereas I'm quite happy to do the conversion to floating earth and rewire the scoot where necessary (the TT instructions state - don't run the negative to earth, only to the negative of the battery) which in my simple reasoning means running supply and returns to the battery to all electrical units (lights-indicators/horn . . . I'm at a loss of how to actually wire the new starter motor as it would entail running an earth from the battery to the engine, which in my limited knowledge may eliminate the floating earth bit . . . I hope that this all makes some kinda sense.
HELP . . . Colin.