Modern Vespa

Every time I take a look at my Rally I find something new: a stuck kickstand, something falls down, back wheel starts to drag, mysterious leak, crappy glove box, cut wire, bondo'd lights, one-size fits all key, can't find VIN numbers AND on top of that, It's untitled, unregistered, and uninsured. I'm starting to think I got a really bad deal. I paid $2000 cash for this.

I've finally taken some pictures of my Rally. It's been sitting in the garage for the past month since I dropped it and ever since then it hasn't been running. I don't know what to do.

My questions: What can I do now to get my baby running again? Around how much could it cost me? I have ZERO mechanical skills and University Scooters in Dallas won't even touch vintage scooters.

Things I'll definitely need to replace: handle bar switch, cowl latch, seat, non-existent glove box lock

I could use some advice. How much to put Humpty Dumpty back together again?

Mate, I don't really know where to begin here?

I can help as i'm sure others will. There will be a lot of typing involved though.



Cheers

I think we should start with the mechanics, What can you share with us?
Compression, spark, clean tank/carb? If you had it running and dropped it, It might be flooded. Did you leave the gas on, how old is your fuel. What has been done mate?

I dropped the Rally twice. The first time I DID flood the engine and got it to start up again and I was just left with a scratched up cowl.

The 2nd time I dropped the Rally, the handle bar switch broke off somehow and the cowl latch on the left side broke off. There was NO electricity whatsoever going through anymore. The lights wouldn't turn on, nothing.

I don't know enough to know whats wrong with the mechanics... but all I know is when I dropped it the 2nd time there was no more electricity going through. And the gas wasn't old at all.

This is the wrong forum for your Rally. Talk to Randolph Garner at Garners Classic Scooters in Cleburne.
http://www.garnersclassicscooters.com/

A friend of mine has a Lambretta. He paid 2,500 for it. He spent another 1,000 getting it rewired and various other things. He is not mechanically inclined. The scooter will not run and has not run for the last year and a half. He knows he will never sell it for what he's got into it.

At some point, he will have to cut his losses if he ever wants to ride again.

My advice, if you like scootering, sell it and go modern. Even if you have to take a hit on the deal.

Damn. This doesn't sound good...

Hey Nicotine,
Here's a link to help you out in locating the VINs. http://www.scooterhelp.com/serial/vespa.serial.locator.html
Hope it helps out. 8)
Good luck.

I found the engine VIN but I can't see the frame VIN. Thanks!

Looks like a huge project to fix, and would cost you quite a bit..

Good idea on sellin in...go modern, and you can always find another good, solid, running vintage in the $2000 range later.

The cut wire will keep it from charging the battery but should make no difference on it running.

Not running would mean it's not getting fuel or spark. spark is easy to check by removing the sparkplug and incerting it in the plug cap. ground the spark plug some place you can see it and kick it over. Or you can do the really quick and painfull way by sticking a screwdriver in the sparkplug cap and grounding yourself, then kick it over.

(NOTE: this is fool proof as if it's getting any juice you will jump and drop the screwdriver BUT I use to do this and now I have a pacemaker. not sure if it's related but I warned you)

Well, theoretically, a strong enough jolt can cause an arrythmia that leads to cardiac arrest. Similarly, a strong enough jolt can "jump-start" a stopped heart.

So yes, it is possible that enough jolts could throw off your heart rhythm enough to need a pacemaker.

That said, I'm a scooterist, not a doctor.

you have three choices:
>find somebody to work on your bike
>man it up, buy the tools and gain the skillz
>sell the bike

if you're willing to learn, then everything can and will be fixed-- with time. this would be the cheapest route, but is by no means easy.

if you're not interested in learning and just want to pay somebody then by all means, go right on ahead, but expect to pay out of the nose. however, this is the easy way to go about things.

personally, my suggestion to you is to find somebody that is well versed that will fix the more complicated problems and at the same time give you a little tutorial on the general stuff. be prepared to pay cash out of pocket and buy lots of beer. most of what you've got going on isn't earth shattering, life ending issues. just a few odds and ends that need to be tied up.

if you're not willing to at least go that far then it's all about the quick sell.

time to get proactive, homey.

best,
-greasy

Mate. I don't think there's owt there that is that difficult to suss. It's looking tatty coz you've let the jobs build up.

This is what I'd do.

Start at the front and work towards the back and list 'every' job that needs doing.

Then get that list and start with the major jobs. Pin that on the garage wall and work through 'em one by one.

That scoot could be gleaming in a several weeks mate.

Or just do the jobs to get it on the road and keep it as a rat scoot

Mick

EH?

Mate, there are people on this forum who will help you.
Pm Me and i will talk you through whatever you need to know.

Mickfitz is right Do make a list. However, if you know nothing about Scooters it really wouldn't matter where he starts. I recall when i started and oh how many Lambrettas i destroyed

Nickotine, get in touch!

Cheers

I'm surprised we haven't heard from Eric on this yet.

"I sense the Force, He is near"

Where to start, where to start.

OK .. 1) Don't get discouraged. We all get into situations like this - your problems aren't that bad. I've been in the "i'm going to sell this f*in thing i'm so pissed off" so many times it's not funny .... but it's part of vintage living It makes the times riding it all the sweeter

NOW...

2) If this bike was in front of me i'd likely have the engine fixed in 5 minutes and the electrical fixed in 20, barring any need for seal replacement or something - just sit tight while we try to figure this out via the web.

3) "Things I'll definitely need to replace: handle bar switch, cowl latch, seat, non-existent glove box lock "

ALL of those parts are orderable and easy to change ( well, the cowl latch is a little more involved ). The glovebox lock is a snap, and would take someone 5 minutes to install - just order one and i'll walk you through it. The handlebar switch is the same way - the wires all go into little contacts on the back of the black plastic part, and screw in with little brass screws. They are all numbered, so you just have to note them when you disconnect them and hook them back up to their proper positions.

The cowl latch is a bit harder, but still easy. You'll need to remove your seat, then the gas tank ( both come out by just undoing bolts ). At this point kinda twist your gas tank up and sit it on the frame. YOU could aways shut off the gas and just disconnect the hose while you work on it, but i never bother - i typically just leave it hooked up and try to get enough room to get my hands down under there. The cowl latch is nothing but a long bolt, a nut, and a spring. I think when you see it you'll see how easy it is to change out - all you need is a 1/4" socket with 10mm nut on the end, IIRC.

Anyways... hit me up via PM and we'll get this all sorted. Chin up.

-Eric

Very nice, positive, supportive reply. You're one good bloke who has a heart in the right place.

You'll get good karma for this.

C

Thanks guys. I will respond ASAP when I get some new parts.

www.mauropascoli.it
But i don't know if it sale out of the Italy or U.E.
Try it.

Very nice, positive, supportive reply. You're one good bloke who has a heart in the right place.

You'll get good karma for this.

C[/quote]

Ah yes! But where are those Mods when you need one

Eric is top shelve. Always up for it, giving insightful and hands on experience.

Me? I'm a two finger typer

Keep us posted mate. This thread may never die

Cheers

Hi,

To start out, list the problems... then work the list. That may seem like an oversimplification, but it really isn't.

Break it down to Baby Steps. Choose those items on the list you have the tools and the know-how to accomplish. Farm-out those you have neither the tools, know-how (or desire to learn) to accomplish.

The list will govern both your budget and your timeline. But take heart that those things you do fix, you don't have to go back there again and you've made progress.

In truth, scooters aren't really my thing, but I have used this approach to the 20+ sports cars that I have restored, and it works.

There are few feelings which compare to crossing out each item on the list, and even fewer to compare with the satisfaction and pride in completing the project, regardless of how long it may have taken you. Good Luck!...

Happy Motoring!... Jim

Yeah that's the plan. First I'm just going to change the the seat, the handle-bar switch, and then the cowl latch, in that order.

+1 ... and this is coming from somebody with really, truly ZERO mechanical experience. it's taken me two days to change the oil filter on my ET4 (I know, this hardly amounts to a 'project' .... please don't laugh!) and it's all because of one silly little o-ring, which Piaggio apparently lists under two different part numbers - a skinny one and a fat one. i discovered to my own annoyance and to the loss of half a liter of high-quality oil that the skinny one won't work. following the cleanup of a front-garden oil spill, and another trip to the shop to pick up the correct one, i've now completed the project - to my TOTAL delight.

He sells here. I ordered a mudguard from him. The whole order went smoothly and the packaging was impressive. Made me feel a little better about the $80 UPS charge

You could always ditch the glove box. You can keep your oil under the seat with a couple of bungee cords.

I think you got a lot to work with. If you like those lights. I think I saw this on Scoot.net not too long ago or somewhere.

If that motor is in good shape I think it could be cool to run.

The fact that you have already dropped it makes me think that your lucky its not a Rally that you paid 5K for.

I wouldent advise repainting it until you feel a little more comfortable on it.

Lucky~

That looks like a 77 rally to me...

But what do I know anyway...

Also, guys, what could I do about this?

well, there's a few ways to tackle this...

personally, i'd go this route:


however, you could always go a little bit easier with something like this:

personally, i like the monkey riding the rocking horse sticker, but you may want to go with your favorite band or some such.

best,
-greasy

HAHAHA so would I just cut that hanging steel part off?

Damn I feel like such a newb sorry guys.

don't cut it off.

get some sandpaper, feather out the nasty, then blow it with some white rattle bomb. easy peasy and nobody will be the wiser.

your other option is to cover it with a sticker.

did i say not to cut it off?

now, stop doing massive wheelies...

best,
-greasy

yeah - i agree with greasy.

I think that a lot of us get into scootering because of the LOOKS of the old bikes, but you really need to get your riding legs FIRST ... you're going to scratch up that bike even more than you already have, so just ride it like you stole it for now.

Don't worry about the cosmetic crap - just worry about getting it FUNCTIONAL and SAFE first. Cosmetics come later ( or not at all - some of us just stop caring )

-Eric

I called Garners Classic Scooters and it turns out they don't have anymore turn kill switches for Rallys and according to Randolph, there aren't anymore selling publically in the US. *scratches head*

I asked him what I could do, he told me, "Sorry I don't have a good answer for you, they're hard to find now. The last time I sold one was about 2 years ago and it was to some guy in Puerto Rico" Awesome.

If you like scootering, you will learn to mechanically inclined or relegate yourself to modern scooters.

Yup learning now, its fun.

You're telling me that moving to a modern is a turn towards an inferior product? What was the name of this forum? Or are you unsure about the definition of "relegate?"

I'm basing my advice on his own definition of his capabilities.

I have nothing against wrenching. I have a problem with people telling me vintage is better than modern. Or, the other way around, for that matter.

Deep breath ^
I don't think he was bad mouthing modern vespas. I think he was just trying to say that if you can't wrench on them, you're kind of stuck buying modern. Nothin wrong with that.
*group hug*
OP- like eric said, fix the mechanics first, then worry about the cosmetics

without starting anything on vintage v. modern... i'm gonna tell you how it is. no bullshit here, the straight up joe friday "just the facts" approach.

first, part of owning a vintage bike is understanding that you can't just run down to the store or pick up the phone and find what you need.

that's what makes owning and riding a vintage bike that much more fulfilling. finding that last piece that makes it right, run, or super cool.

you need a switch? post on the scooterbbs spam section, scoot.net, post a f/s wanted ad here, get involved with a local club, make some friends, whatever. eventually you will find the switch.

that being said, vintage vespas are very easy to work on. mechanically it doesn't get much easier. the electrical systems are very straight forward. there is tons of information at your fingertips-- both online and through literature. and best of all, you don't need a massive investment in tools to perform your own work.

you're at a crossroads my friend. you need to roll up and buy the tools and glean the knowledge without crying about it; or you need to farm it out. you can pay with frustration, blood, sweat and tears; or you can pay with cold hard cash. period.

we all want you to succeed, to prosper and be successful in your endeavors with this bike. but understand that nobody can hold your hand through every single step of the way. some of it, you must go alone. at least the most basic stuff... the triumpuh over what you think cannot be is the sweetest reward.

remember, there's no shame in cashing in your chips while you're ahead.

best,
-greasy

Sorry, got a little hot-headed last night. I'll go back to my corner.

whoa whoa whoa.

I just saw your add out on scoot.net, and i think you've got some misinformation.




That's just a Rally 200 handlebar switch. There's NO KILL on that switch. Those controls are for Lights ON / OFF and HI / LO beam and HORN. That's it. The turn signal portion is run by a switch on the LEFT handlebar. This picture is of a EURO SPEC rally 200, which didn't have signals, so it lacks the switch.

That said, it's NOT an easy handlebar switch to locate. You might end up having to browse a while. hit Motorsport scooters, first kick scooters, sportique, american scooter center ... see what they have.

On the US Spec rally 200, the only KILL SWITCH is the actual KEY-operated 2-position switch, which resides above the fuel petcock, below the helmet hook.

THOSE are also hard to find, but it doesn't sound like what you are looking for.

-Eric