Modern Vespa

Hola,
My service manual for the above scoot' indicates that the first valve adjustment occurs at 40,000 KM, ~25K miles. Is this correct?
Thanks!

I thought it was 18,000 miles, but I don't have my manual in front of me.

Page, "MAIN 46" has the maintenance schedule.
I'm very happy if 40,000 KM is true, of course!

Just looked at the manual in the wki and it does state 40 km. Cool.
Still might do mine easy they are getting a little louder than when I bought it.

Looks as easy a job as on the modern Vespas and other simple maintenance scoot's.
The big superscoots (Honda, Yamaha, at least) have bucket and shim adjustment. Not easy for DIY folks.

Thought that is what the BV350 has, shims. It's not a screw adjustment like the Vespa and MP3 from the reading I have done on here. Haven't read the manual yet though.
Do need to figure out what shims to order so I have a selection on hand when I do mine.
Shims are the easiest valve adjustments I have done in the past.

The BV350 is shim and bucket. Been there done that. 24,000 miles. My commuter was way out. I'll be checking the valve lash at 10,000 miles on Scoot Life. Because I can.
Better have a micrometer when you do it. I was unable to read the numbers on the shims.

I am in error. The roller, dual rocker must be loosened and a correct thickness shim/wear-pad is inserted at the top of the valve, closing the clearance between rocker valve-facing surface and valve stem top to proper specification. It looks like an easy process but will require downtime to order the correct thickness shim/wear-pad, if one does this themselves (I'm pretty sure I'll do this myself...). That's one of the good reasons to have two scoot's, one to ride while the other is awaiting parts!

Thanks for the advise, Breaknwind!

Wow you have to loosen the rocker, no special tool to hold the compressed valve? That is how I did it on my '75 Kawasaki Z1 900.

The way it worked is you would rotate the engine by hand (Wrench on fly wheel bolt) till valve you wanted to adjust was compressed, then you slip this tool in between cam and the shim cup and continue rotating engine till the cam lobe was out of the way and you would pull the shim out (not on the cam lobe, next to the cam lobe), then measure and replace.

Think I still have the tool and will see if it will work on these.

WEB-Tech, there's no special tool required to change the shims, except possibly pliers to get a grip on the spacer or shims. There's a spacer that fits between the two rocker arms and separates them. Snap the spacer out and either rocker slides over to the center, allowing you to simply lift out the shim.

Measuring the clearance and adjusting the shims is the easiest thing in the world -- it's removing and replacing all the plastic that's a real PITA.

Correction: the spacer is called a "rockers lock" and it fits on one side of the rocker, not in the center as I stated above. Anyway, it's easy to change the shims.

It does look straight-forward to adjust.

At least it's less complex than my Burgman 400 which was the DOHC model. Both cams have to come out to change the shims.

Now that I have a helmet cam, I'll do a video rundown of the valve adjustment. If anyone does a valve adjustment before I post it, wipe the oil off the shim and remove with electrical tape. I guarantee you won't drop the shim into the engine. I will show that in the video.

Like that hint, now hope I remember it

That's a good tip breaknwind! Like it!