Modern Vespa

Took the missus for a short ride on a hot day, forgetting to adjust the preload on the shocks. I sensed that we were rubbing somewhere shortly into the ride. When we got home I noticed that the green light on the dash was out, along with all 4 indicator lights. The front turn indicators worked when activated but the rears were totally dead. Found a burned 7.5 amp fuse in position 1 of the fuse block. Replaced it, which restored the front lights along with the green instrument cluster light. As per the photos below I think I have a bigger electrical issue that needs attention. I think the frayed wires above the rear tire were due to the tire rubbing against the flimsy plastic fender. At any rate I'm pretty sure the rear lights can be fixed by patching those wires. My primary concern is the fried connector in the front of the pet carrier.

Any input would be appreciated. My electrical skills are minimal. Not sure if this is a voltage regulator problem or simply a short caused by overloading the scoot on a hot day while bottoming out the rear shocks.

UPDATE: The frayed wire was a relatively easy fix. Just re-insulated and ran longer lengths of the blue wire tubing in picture 2. All lights are working again. Just need to figure out that melted connector. Just under 12V before starting, 13V at idle, 14V while riding.

w.

That is not the first picture of that connector being melted. I think it happens with some regularity, which I believe is because it is a cheaply made part. Possible solutions - buy another quick connect and re-wire it; snip the wires and put connectors on each wire instead of using a quick connector (be sure to insulate it well).

I replaced my voltage regulator a few years ago. While messing with that I found that there is very little clearance between the pet carrier and the metal of the body. In other words, don't buy a big clunky quick connect and expect it to fit in there. If my connector ever fails, I would snip the wires, solder spade connectors on pigtails to add 2-3 inches and plug each wire together separately and do away with the modular connector.

If your VR fails, it usually overcharges at 15-18 volts. It will burn out your headlight (and maybe others), boil your battery dry and maybe do other damage. If it has failed the orange check engine light will light up at any engine speed above idle, i.e., it will not glow at idle but will when revved. The VR is hidden away in front of the radiators in the leg shield and takes a lot of doing to get to it. I think there is a pictorial on here somewhere - use Search function.

Hope this helps. Let us know how it works out.

PS - check your ignition coil to spark plug wire at both ends to ensure its still firmly connected. Flexing the wire (hitting bumps while two up) can somewhat pull it out of one end or the other, and will blow a 10 amp fuse on the left side of the pet carrier.

Thanks for the reply. Now that I think of it, I'm pretty sure I've seen that connector cracked in the past. It's possible that the exposed wires just overheated under the intense heat beneath the pet carrier. For some reason I'm not suspecting the voltage regulator. I ride with a voltage meter in the cigarette lighter port. I rarely see it go over 14 volts. My GTS is 12 years old at this point. I need to get it to a mechanic to have the valve clearances checked and to figure out why I'm consistently getting oil in the air box bubbles after installing a new air filter last year. I think my GTS is on the brink of a major service. It's a labour of love at this point. I'm at 12k miles on the odometer. Would love to see 20k or even 30k.

w.

My GTS is a 2007 year model according to the title, but was assembled in March of 2006. I've got a little over 20000 on it and it runs great. I did the valves several years ago (at whatever mileage it is supposed to be done) and as soon as I fired it up I heard a tick tick tick. So I did the valves a second time and got it right. It never was hard to start (a sign of valves needing adjustment) and did not run any better after the adjustment. I would not be surprised if yours are just fine. If it is not hard to start, still gets similar gas mileage and does not make a ticking noise while running, chances are they are still in correct tolerance.

As my profile indicates, I also have a Honda Silverwing. Its a 2003 with 41000 miles on it. It has shim and bucket type valves (Vespa has screw and locknut) which tend to stay in tolerance better. Just about nobody on the Silverwing forum has ever reported having to have the valves adjusted (check yes, adjust no), so I've never bothered checking them. Sure its a risk, but its also a $2000 scooter at this point, runs perfectly and doesn't seem like its worth spending $400-500 to get them checked.

Hopefully yours works just as well as mine.

If I had to guess I suspect the scooter is running rich. MPG is definitely off. I used to get over 80 miles per gallon. Now I'm lucky to get 60. Excessive oil in the airbox is another concern and I do detect some ticking at idle. 12k is the valve adjustment milestone so I should just get it over with.

A guy on craigslist, 1/2 a mile from my house is selling a brand new Genuine Buddy matt black 170cc for $2800. Money wise I'd be better off going that route but I'm too committed to my GTS.

w.

low MPG could be a worn belt.

Excessive oil could be from hi revs to compensate for worn belt.

John

I get rid if its burning wires

I've owned two Buddy 125s and one 170i. I think the 125 is a better scooter than the 170i, but the large frame Vespa is light years above the Buddies. PGO makes a great scooter, but the speed and comfort of your GTS is no contest for the 170i.

The connector between the stator and the regulator is a common failure point. High currents flow - and if there's the slightest bit of corrosion or dirt on the contacts, there'll be some resistance. It doesn't take much for it to get very hot indeed.

Easily remedied - just cut out the connector and any hard wiring/insulation, then splice or solder the wires together, adding some extra if needed. It doesn't matter which one goes to which.

Bald,

The melted connector can be replaced. Of course you'll have to buy a new one. If you can get the plastic off the middle melted one you can even use the same connectors.
The connectors can be pulled out of the plug by inserting something thin (hammered flat paper clip) between the connector and the plastic to depress the little tang that keeps it in. To mimic these


See the tang here




Find a 3 pin set here http://www.cycleterminal.com/250-connectors.html#SC250 Use the plug and socket with your existing brass connectors.



As the wires are the same colours mark them before you start 1-1, 2-2, 3-3

You're at least the fourth person to have this specific failure, including me. The blade terminal is not fully inserted into the receiver, causing all current to flow through a diminished surface area, due to incomplete insertion.
Look carefully at the spade and receiver they are not mated fully.
Mine failed at the Vespa dealer in Santa Rosa, CA in front of the technician.
I repaired mine with positive screw terminal connectors.
The pet carrier will not go back into the its "home" if you use terminals that are too high. Find some that are small enough to fit in the narrow gap between carrier and steel cross member.
Hopefully, this failure didn't take your voltage regulator out. Mine survived FWIW.

No need to replace - just bypass! No need again - it doesn't matter which one goes to which. It's just a three-phase alternator.

Time to buy a soldering iron and some solder.

w.

I just serviced a 2006 GTS250 with 86,200 miles on the clock. Motor all original except for usual consumeables. Owner complained of high oil consumption over the last 900 miles. He's always uses fully synthetic motorcycle oil of the correct viscosity, and owned it from new. Found the reason for the higher oil consumption was due to tight inlet valves (slightly unusual), and a tight exhaust valve (quite normal). This causes blowback at a low level into the air filter causing the bubbles to oil mist. After valve adjustment his bike is running better but I suspect one of the exhaust valve guides is burned and is going to need attention in a few months when he has some money. Your bike should.achieve 30k miles with its eyes closed! With proper servicing they just go and go and could hit close to 100,000 miles. I fully expect my 300 to go near 100k miles! The more you ride it the better it is.

Always good to see a high mileage automatic Vespa. 8)

You should know Judy! You're a leader on that one...love these Vespas!

Had to break away the cheap plastic housing around the 3 connectors. 1 out of 3 looks almost brand new but the middle one is the one that I think was causing the biggest problem and the third one seems like it can be cleaned up. Is there any reason I couldn't just sand these contacts back, put some contact cleaner on ithem and re-insulate all three wires without using the plastic housing?

w.

Used a dremel with a wire brush and some contact cleaner. Looks decent. My only issue is that these blade couplers are non-locking. Thought about using some heat shrink to insulate and snug the fittings together (individually of course) then use sections of wire conduit to protect everything.

w.

What if the bad connection was between one of those spades and the wire (and not between mating parts of the spades)?

With damage like that, I'd cut it all out and solder the wires together.

Sounds good. It's worth a try. Run it a while and see if the connections get hot.

Reminds me of a time when I worked for an electrician who did a lot of work in a foundry, repairing the equipment they were always breaking. They cut through a 3-phase cord to a sand cutter one time. We didn't have time to go there immediately so we told them to splice the wires together, red to red, black to black, white to white, and tape them all up.

A while later we got a call. "We did like you said. Now it's BLOWING FUSES!"

Sure enough, they had spliced the wires -- and taped them all together!

Ended up crimping in a set of snap connectors after snipping off the old stuff. There was enough play in the wiring to avoid soldering in new connectors. Let's all hope that it stays together.

w.

I see you ended up doing mostly what I said above.
Does the pet carrier foul the connectors now?
None of the three spade blades were fully inserted in the original connector. This was a factory assembly defect.

Everything tucks in nicely. Hopefully these snap connectors do the trick. Wiring on my Vespa has been my biggest headache, compounded by the fact that the previous owner messed with it to install a light modulator kit.

Next up are the valves.

w.

Valve adjustment is easy. Take your time.

I have a few other messy jobs to be done. Think I'll let my local shop give my GTS a thorough going over. I'd love it if I could help with the job, just so I can see everything first hand but I doubt they'll let me hover.

w.

Make certain they are good mechanics. Bad mechanics return your scoot with bigger messes than when they get them!

Same thing happened to me. I fixed it essentially the same way. If I were you I would check or have my voltage checked to ensure all is right with the voltage regulator. Mine failed (found during scheduled service) shortly (no pun intended) after I made the fix. My theory is that it was bad earlier and the failed connection was a result of it.

I've been riding with a power port voltage meter. I haven't seen the voltage go higher than 14.2 volts at riding speed but believe me, keeping an eye on it. Funny this is, I was searching some voltage regulator threads and came across a deleted post by the guy I bought my GTS from who was a MV member. Makes me wonder if he had a problem with the VR in the past.

w.