Modern Vespa

Sounds like a bearing has sheared behind it or something 😖

Doesn't look good.
The pulley on the left is the variator. The one on the right is the driven pulley, or clutch. If you spin the clutch bell, the outside part that spins freely, you should see the rear wheel turning. That's normal.

The pulley on the right that's behind the clutch won't turn now because of the belt tension. The next step will be to remove the belt (by removing the variator pieces first). Then you'll see that it could be either pulley that's stuck.

Good luck!

The wiki section here has some tips on variator sand belts, and you can search for some YouTube videos.

It's not good the shaft that the variator sits on that disappears into the engine is seized it won't turn . New engine or for the scrap heap 😭?.

It's time to take the engine out. It could be a dropped valve, or a shattered stator, or something else. You could mend it or replace the whole thing, maybe from a write-off that has a good engine. That might be the most economical thing to do if you can find one.

Oh dear that might a bit out of my league to put a new engine in it 😫
I will see how much a second hand one is then make a decision.
When I manage to turn it slightly there is a grinding sound .not good
Oh well thanks for all your help.
Much regards Andy .

It might be something jammed on the clutch side, which would be simpler to fix. You won't know which is stuck, the variator or the clutch pulley, until you take the belt off. That's not too hard to do but requires a couple of special tools or an impact wrench. Maybe you could borrow the tools, or take the scooter to a shop just to have them help diagnose the problem.

I've got all to bits variator, belt off and it's the pinion/shaft that is seized but thanks anyway.

If you can turn it, but there's a grinding noise, it might well be the stator has detonated. Not too pricey to replace the coils and flywheel.

Guess I would have to take the engine out completely to check that , here in the uk someone on eBay has a recon GT200 L engine for £250 (interesting)
But I bet it's a hard job swapping it over?

Actually not so bad! The electrical bits all unplug. The coolant needs draining - no big deal. The carb comes off at the intake manifold. Take off the exhaust, rear wheel, rear brake caliper. With the centre-stand down, remove the remaining rear shock, undo engine from swingarm and lift the body away. The pet-carrier (upside down) is ideal to rest the frame on while the engine's out.

Oh really ! I've put a new carb in her, I've had exhausted off and replaced rear brake pads too,I know how to drain coolant,does the engine just lift out or do I have to take the metal surround that the pet carrier sit in apart 🤔,
I guess if I get stuck you guys are always around, might have to buy that engine a give it ago.
Wifey says I could get a newer one but I think I'd rather have ago at fixing good old Valarie👍

Watch the first part of this video about removing the engine from a GTS. They aren't quite the same but it will give you a clue. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hXyK84UkPoc

Thanks I will I pick up an engine next Saturday 👍🏻

Happy days I got the old one out let's hope I can put the newer one back in🤔

You can do it.

🤔 I'm stuck again I'm afraid. I have noticed on the engine I'm picking up tomorrow has no brake disc on it just the treaded rod that the wheel fits on , how do I get the old disc assembly off the old one ?

I can see how to get the disc it's self off but not the whole unit 🤔
I know I'm an English pain but I need some help

I believe the hub just pulls off. That said on my S50 it took PBblaster, heat and a 3 prong puller. It was touch and go but in the end I won. I had a impact gun on it before I went to a tire iron for leverage. The PBblaster was as important as the 3 prong puller.

That whole hub complete with disc *should* just pull off. However, seeing as it's been stuck there for humpty-dumpty years, you will need penetrating oil and a good puller.

One of those things that should be checked as free to move every time the rear tyre is off...

Ah ok but I can't even seem to get that spacer off infront of the hub 😫
Hope I can suss it out! off to pick up my engine 👍🏻

Hi, just wanted to let you guys know had a very successful engine swap finished it this morning and she started first press of the button . Valarie is fixed 😄 very happy ! Too her down the street for a test run and she is faster than Before 👌
A big thank you to all ! for your time and patience with us !
I will be back !
No doubts there 👍🏻

Thanks for letting us know it worked out. What did you do to pull the hub off?

Well done!

Now strip the old engine to find out what's wrong, and if cheap enough rebuild it either as a spare or sell it.

I got a rear hub and brake disc from the garage I got the engine from 😊
So I was lucky there because I couldn't budge the the other one .
To honest I problem going to scrap the old engine as I'm now going to have a go at getting my ole FJ 1100 Yam on the road as I've got a bit of confidence taking stuff apart thanks to you guys .

Hello there.

I'm going to go out on a limb here, but this happened to my GT200L last year.

The short answer is yes, you have a bigger problem and you'll need a professional mechanic to sort this out.

My GT200L with around 60,000 Km had the same symptoms, with just a clicking sound so I replaced the starter, recharged the battery, etc., to no avail.

Since I was stumped, I took it to a professional and it turned out the piston had locked up due to a a piece of metal that sloughed off the carburetor.

The mechanic had to remove the engine out and lift the head to take the cylinder apart. Luckily in my case the walls were not scratched -just a piece of metal was keeping the piston from compressing.

He had to repair the carburetor replacing the part that had cracked and after it was put back together with new rings on the piston, the cylinder compressed correrctly, the bike started and ran well again.

I hope this is not your situation but it sounds like it is.