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Just got the bike back, the spark plugs was changed and it was running better than it ever has honestly.

But the sparkplug might not have been the problem or part of a different problem. Good news is the bike isn't dying 8 times a day, the bad news is that today while on the freeway the bike decided that the throttle wasn't going to accelerate anymore at 70mph.

It just randomly stopped accellerating and as I slowed down to 40 I twisted it all the way and it didn't do anything, I slowed down to a more while waving arms at the guy behind me and as it slowed down to about 15 mph it started working again.

Definitely think it might be a vacuum in the fuel line as a result of that gas tank to evap line being cut by the previous owner. My maintenance guy said that this isn't likely the cause. Gonna buy a gas cap to drill a hole in tomorrow and hope that never happens again.

I drove it on the same freeway back and it didn't have any problems, I just assumed it was probably from the huge 2inch deep puddle I drove through earlier
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If it's a fuel vacuum problem, when you have the no power issue and you then unscrew the gas cap you'll hear a big WHOOOSH! If not, then a vacuum isn't the problem.
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Vintage1 wrote:
If it's a fuel vacuum problem, when you have the no power issue and you then unscrew the gas cap you'll hear a big WHOOOSH! If not, then a vacuum isn't the problem.
I'm not hearing a huge whoosh, I'm hearing more like the sound of opening up a soda can, you hear it depressurize,
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Ok, so here's what the evapdectomy the previous owner did looks like, as you can see by the picture that's kinda blurry, the cannisters to engine hose has been cut pretty far from the engine and also hasn't been plugged
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Looks like some good sleuthing. What happens when you plug? You may still get vapor lock. If you perform the fuel tank vent-ectomy part you may be good to go. Or hook it back up like was originally intended?
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Jesse_GT wrote:
Looks like some good sleuthing. What happens when you plug? You may still get vapor lock. If you perform the fuel tank vent-ectomy part you may be good to go. Or hook it back up like was originally intended?
I'll try plugging it, if it happens again I'll try cutting the tank line
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It sounds like the charcoal canister is shot and still inline due to the botched canister delete attempt, preventing the fuel tank from venting. Pull the canister & rubber strap and run a vent hose from the tip over valve exit (in-between the canister and the fuel tank, a roundish thing that looks kind of like a snail) and secure the hose with a zip tie with the bottom of the hose below the swing arm pivot. There's a guide on this, in the wiki I think.
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I had this on my et and it was a leaky dual tap flooding my engine
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The evap system was murdered yesterday but the problem remains. Now the bike is back to dying constantly 2 times on the way home, it does the rev thing again too but kicking gas into it seems to work
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professorcatfacemeowmers wrote:
I'm not hearing a huge whoosh, I'm hearing more like the sound of opening up a soda can, you hear it depressurize,
Does it still do this?
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bluecloud wrote:
professorcatfacemeowmers wrote:
I'm not hearing a huge whoosh, I'm hearing more like the sound of opening up a soda can, you hear it depressurize,
Does it still do this?
No more whooshing. The bike doesn't die anymore, at all, but it's still doing the scary late or non-existent throttle response at high speeds at least once a day, it's super frightening. I was thinking of trying to clean te air filter by myself and maybe the throttle body, I'm not sure if the latter is a good idea but the former seems doable
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How about just replace the air filter?
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Vintage1 wrote:
How about just replace the air filter?
That's my next move, the repair guy says the spark plugs cable is really frayed and not covered and that it probably got water on it recently.

Though I keep telling them "probs the air filter or a dirty throttle body" and they wanna try to replicate it on the road which there's a 50% chance it won't replicate. Which idk why, I said what was going on. It's not safe to purposely have the thing stop accellerating at random. I'm expecting them to just fix the wire and the problem to persist, if that happens I'm gonna change the filter.

This is a miserably freaky problem to have too. It'd be one thing if there were hazard lights I can turn on but all I have is a turn signal, that doesn't necessarily get the dude going 70 behind me an idea it's an emergency.

I can do the air filter cleaning myself but it's the throttle body I don't know about. Is that easy? Any guides here?
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How many times have you taken this in to the shop? Why don't they just replace the spark plug, spark plug wire, air filter, vacuum lines, clean out the evap canister, etc. -- all the easy inexpensive stuff -- and be done with it? Or you could do this yourself. Tune up the simple stuff before you start with throttle body, injector, ECU, ... $$$.

Good luck!
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Vintage1 wrote:
How about just replace the air filter?
Maybe because they are foam and are meant to be cleaned and replaced?
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So the repair guy changed the spark plug and gave you the scooter back and only now is telling you the spark plug cable is frayed? didn't he see that when he replaced the spark plug?
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
How many times have you taken this in to the shop? Why don't they just replace the spark plug, spark plug wire, air filter, vacuum lines, clean out the evap canister, etc. -- all the easy inexpensive stuff -- and be done with it? Or you could do this yourself. Tune up the simple stuff before you start with throttle body, injector, ECU, ... $$$.

Good luck!
Agree!
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Vintage1 wrote:
Oh, thank you Captain Obvious.
I thought you had been asked to set aside this snarky stuff?
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
How many times have you taken this in to the shop? Why don't they just replace the spark plug, spark plug wire, air filter, vacuum lines, clean out the evap canister, etc. -- all the easy inexpensive stuff -- and be done with it? Or you could do this yourself. Tune up the simple stuff before you start with throttle body, injector, ECU, ... $$$.

Good luck!
Too many at this point. They said it was a bad wire. He said that if you misted the wire you could get it to do the acceletation problem again. It did some uneasy shifts at about 40mph today but no total loss of power stuff at all so I'm optimistic. I can switch the air filter, the evap canister has been permanently taken care of and I think I might replace the battery in case it's suflated. No way to tell without taking it apart.
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Vintage1 wrote:
So the repair guy changed the spark plug and gave you the scooter back and only now is telling you the spark plug cable is frayed? didn't he see that when he replaced the spark plug?
I'm gonna assume he saw it but didn't think it was causing the problem since the spark plug was shot. Shop guys usually pretty honest but I go to this guy cause he's significantly cheaper than the guys who are 2 blocks from my house. It's 90/hr vs 160/hr


I mean I have a wrecked bike from some years back, I suppose I can just pop that air filter into the current bikes airbox, they're a year apart
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professorcatfacemeowmers wrote:
JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
How many times have you taken this in to the shop? Why don't they just replace the spark plug, spark plug wire, air filter, vacuum lines, clean out the evap canister, etc. -- all the easy inexpensive stuff -- and be done with it? Or you could do this yourself. Tune up the simple stuff before you start with throttle body, injector, ECU, ... $$$.

Good luck!
Too many at this point. They said it was a bad wire. He said that if you misted the wire you could get it to do the acceletation problem again. It did some uneasy shifts at about 40mph today but no total loss of power stuff at all so I'm optimistic. I can switch the air filter, the evap canister has been permanently taken care of and I think I might replace the battery in case it's suflated. No way to tell without taking it apart.
Professor, you don't take the battery apart to see if it's sulphated. That won't tell you a thing! Take it to a battery store like Batteries Plus, or to a well-equipped motorcycle shop and have it "load tested". If it's bad buy a new one! Clean the air filter, or replace it if necessary.

So did they or did they not actually replace the spark plug and spark plug wire?

The point I'm trying to make is that every time you take your scooter into the shop, they're going to charge you a minimum labor charge, maybe $100 or so, whether they only change the oil, or tweak the carburetor, or change the spark plug, or whatever. Letting them change a plug, then tell you the wire is frayed, is stupid, fer cryin' out loud! Then, after that you wonder if the oily air filter is causing the trouble! Do all the $5 and $10 stuff at the same time and be done with it!

Good luck! 8)
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professorcatfacemeowmers wrote:
I mean I have a wrecked bike from some years back, I suppose I can just pop that air filter into the current bikes airbox, they're a year apart
Criminy! There you go again. Spend a few bucks on a new filter if you have to. Don't try to reuse that cruddy old filter that's been sitting for years, providing a home to Lord knows how many generations of mice! It'll just be another unknown but likely source of trouble!
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
professorcatfacemeowmers wrote:
I mean I have a wrecked bike from some years back, I suppose I can just pop that air filter into the current bikes airbox, they're a year apart
Criminy! There you go again. Spend a few bucks on a new filter if you have to. Don't try to reuse that cruddy old filter that's been sitting for years, providing a home to Lord knows how many generations of mice! It'll just be another unknown but likely source of trouble!
Yeah I got it back yesterday and the problems still there. This is getting pretty obnoxious. I'm gonna change the air filter myself and if that's not the problem who knows. What else could it be? It just stops accellerating when in twisting the throttle
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I'm guessing an airfilter isn't going to be responsible for dropping you intermittently from 60 to 15.
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Either you need the $160 an hour fix or something besides a new air filter.
Clean it if the foams not crumbling, then move on to what is really causing your problem.
Hourly charges aside, is the wire replaced or not? This makes no sense either on your end or his end?
How many miles on the scoot? Is compression good? Is power delivery normal when it runs? Why was battery mentioned as a culprit? that's a starting issue, not speed dropping.
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znomit wrote:
I'm guessing an airfilter isn't going to be responsible for dropping you intermittently from 60 to 15.
I don't think it's it either
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Kantuckid wrote:
Either you need the $160 an hour fix or something besides a new air filter.
Clean it if the foams not crumbling, then move on to what is really causing your problem.
Hourly charges aside, is the wire replaced or not? This makes no sense either on your end or his end?
How many miles on the scoot? Is compression good? Is power delivery normal when it runs? Why was battery mentioned as a culprit? that's a starting issue, not speed dropping.
I switched out the filter, I'll see how it runs this week, I'm gonna take it to a new mechanic who can replicate the problem on the roads here
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Kantuckid wrote:
Hourly charges aside, is the wire replaced or not? This makes no sense either on your end or his end?
So, has the ignition cable and cap been replaced as Kantuckid asked? Seems like a fairly small repair to either fix your scooter or eliminate this possible cause from the list.
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Dooglas wrote:
Kantuckid wrote:
Hourly charges aside, is the wire replaced or not? This makes no sense either on your end or his end?
So, has the ignition cable and cap been replaced as Kantuckid asked? Seems like a fairly small repair to either fix your scooter or eliminate this possible cause from the list.
Yep! It was replaced. I replaced the air filter today, I got a weird grindy feel at dead lock traffic when taking off but I'm not sure if that's me messing up the installation or just all the crap in the pet carrier vibrting. It did fine at high speeds today. No grindy feel above 5mph

I don't think I messed up the air filter installation, otherwise it'd blow up or something. I think that's me ocding out. The new one was definitely thicker and he to be pushed hrder before screwing it together.
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Good job! The air filter is not likely to cause the grinding noise.

Can you hear any noises when you just push the scooter along, with the engine off? If so, it might be a bearing or simply something rubbing on a tire. Then put the scooter up on the center stand, start it, and listen for noise. You could take the stuff out of the pet carrier to eliminate that as the cause.

Good luck!
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JKJ-FZ6 wrote:
Good job! The air filter is not likely to cause the grinding noise.

Can you hear any noises when you just push the scooter along, with the engine off? If so, it might be a bearing or simply something rubbing on a tire. Then put the scooter up on the center stand, start it, and listen for noise. You could take the stuff out of the pet carrier to eliminate that as the cause.

Good luck!
took the pet carrier out, it went away, it wasnt a super loud grinding noise, it did just sound like vibrating stuff inside some stuff, if its not the airbox its probably unrelated or has always been and im just being paranoid.

it hasnt done the accelerating problem since the other night after i cleaned it, so the air filter might have been it but im not optimistic
⬆️    About 9 months elapsed    ⬇️
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99% sure I figured out the problem and it hasn't happened since.

One day the bike kept dying at low rpms and stuttering and for some reason I thought maybe it was the kill switch being loose or something and sure enough I would tap the Killswitch while it was in the "on" position and each time I tapped it the bike would immediately stall right after.

Then when no one was on the road I decided to see what happens when you flick the switch to the off position and back on while going 55 or so. When I did this the bike did exactly the thing it was doing. The engine didn't respond to the throttle, and eventually it did respond to it after slowing down but it didn't cease


Then I just kept pushing the switch in and it stopped doing it. I replaced the switch too and it hasn't happened in a whole month despite hot and cold temperatures. It used to happen once per every other ride.

I think someone said that on here I'm not sure. But those switches do go bad, and act super weird when they do
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Thanks for the update! I'm glad you got it working! Clap emoticon
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Are you in the habit of using the kill switch? I never touch mine.
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Probably
I know that the rules mandate a kill switch, but I've never had anything but trouble with them. Usually getting turned off accidentally, and since I never use it, I don't think to check it.

If I was having trouble with mine, I'd seriously consider just bypassing it. If, somehow, your scooter runs away with you, can still switch it off with the key.
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The problem with the kill switch is typically corrosion on the contacts. Not using the kill switch does not prevent the contacts from corroding. I put a little dielectric grease on switch contacts and bulb bases. Seems to prevent the problem.
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