OP
Fri, 24 Aug 2018 19:58:31 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Fri, 24 Aug 2018 19:58:31 +0000 quote
I've wanting to rebuild this sprint 1968 engine for a few summer already and finally it is in the front of the line.


A buddy asked to document it but it's quite terrible. Lost some of first few snaps of disassemble, cleaning, remove old bearings, putting new bearings and missing some steps during the process.


Choice between Indian or Japanese bearing.


seal / gasket set. Have to buy the cylinder gasket separately since it's 3 ports instead of 2


original Piaggio pistons. One of them is 0Step


some special tools


got the bearings in.


got primary gears in.




testing crank.


installed crank


puller pulled crank in place.


replaced cross, keep the gears as they are still in great condition. Assembled cross, & gear


installed shaft


looking good.


old kickstart gear looks worn


new piaggio is ready to use.


reinstall kickstart quadrant


put on gasket and assemble the case.



Last edited by ph0ngvu on Fri, 21 Sep 2018 18:01:52 +0000; edited 2 times
Fri, 24 Aug 2018 21:12:47 +0000

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:59:35 +0000
Posts: 7537
Location: Nashville
 
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:59:35 +0000
Posts: 7537
Location: Nashville
Fri, 24 Aug 2018 21:12:47 +0000 quote
Your engine stand is brilliant!

I need to head over to Home Depot anyway, but I'll definitely by stopping by the plumbing department while I'm there.
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 05:18:57 +0000

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 2008 Stella (Olive)
Joined: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:25:08 +0000
Posts: 3581
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 2008 Stella (Olive)
Joined: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:25:08 +0000
Posts: 3581
Location: Florence, OR
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 05:18:57 +0000 quote
Wow, excellent pics PV! I'm glad you posted them. And yes, the engine stand looks fantastic. That's some serious engine rebuilding. Good job!

That engine stand has got me thinking about diy stands that aren't welded. Hmmm...
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 07:05:36 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 07:05:36 +0000 quote
Nice job! How did you come to have all those pistons?

I hope you removed the cover/seal from the clutch side bearing? Seeing it has the proper seal on the other side you want some lubrication to get in there.

Sat, 25 Aug 2018 07:52:57 +0000

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 '58 AllState '68 Sprint '80 50special and a '66(?) Super125
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 8907
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '78 P200 E '84 Cosa '91 PK50XL2 '58 AllState '68 Sprint '80 50special and a '66(?) Super125
Joined: Tue, 23 Nov 2010 02:37:37 +0000
Posts: 8907
Location: seattle/athens
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 07:52:57 +0000 quote
Oh, how I love seeing battered old motors being lovingly coaxed back to life. You are doing it first class w/ all quality new bearings etc.



I've always wondered about those yellow inserts in the main crank bores. I always thought they were brass and yours look to be, but I scrapped a motor that had plated iron inserts. They weren't dimpled all around in the case like yours, seemed original and I've seen enough of them to think they are maybe factory items in some motors?

Anybody know?


I have a magnet stuck to one half here
and the two brake posts w/ anchor pins
all are from a dead motor half that I melted


you can see the gray color and I think it's iron rather than steel because it's brittle & seeing the grain structure

Sat, 25 Aug 2018 08:20:11 +0000

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 08:20:11 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
Nice job! How did you come to have all those pistons?

I hope you removed the cover/seal from the clutch side bearing? Seeing it has the proper seal on the other side you want some lubrication to get in there.

I thought the point of a sealed bearing was that it didn't need external lubrication.
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 08:54:20 +0000

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: Sun, 02 Aug 2015 18:39:51 +0000
Posts: 3506
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: Sun, 02 Aug 2015 18:39:51 +0000
Posts: 3506
Location: Veria, Greece
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 08:54:20 +0000 quote
These are not sealed bearings. They're polyamide ball caged bearings (instead of steel caged). They're supposed to be quieter, stiffer and more flexible...





Sat, 25 Aug 2018 13:07:14 +0000

Molto Verboso
Joined: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 19:17:41 +0000
Posts: 1703
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
Joined: Thu, 03 Nov 2011 19:17:41 +0000
Posts: 1703
Location: Racing Capital of the World
Sat, 25 Aug 2018 13:07:14 +0000 quote
V oodoo wrote:
Oh, how I love seeing battered old motors being lovingly coaxed back to life. You are doing it first class w/ all quality new bearings etc.



I've always wondered about those yellow inserts in the main crank bores. I always thought they were brass and yours look to be, but I scrapped a motor that had plated iron inserts. They weren't dimpled all around in the case like yours, seemed original and I've seen enough of them to think they are maybe factory items in some motors?

Anybody know?
The dimples are not standard; someone has done this to stop the bearing from moving in the brass sleeve. I often see this on Asian bikes; this area is worn out. The right way to resolve this issue is to machine new brass sleeves and install. The early bikes had brass sleeves and later went to steel. Hope all that helps.
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 00:01:33 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 00:01:33 +0000 quote
SaFiS wrote:
These are not sealed bearings. They're polyamide ball caged bearings (instead of steel caged). They're supposed to be quieter, stiffer and more flexible...
So wouldn't you want the 'open' side towards the lubrication?
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 00:17:24 +0000

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 00:17:24 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
SaFiS wrote:
These are not sealed bearings. They're polyamide ball caged bearings (instead of steel caged). They're supposed to be quieter, stiffer and more flexible...
So wouldn't you want the 'open' side towards the lubrication?
I got it now. In the 7th photo of the original post, it looks like there is a gap between the black cage bit and the outer bearing race. So oil can get past that.
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 02:17:33 +0000

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:34:49 +0000
Posts: 2342
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:34:49 +0000
Posts: 2342
Location: Siam
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 02:17:33 +0000 quote
autojack wrote:
Ginch wrote:
SaFiS wrote:
These are not sealed bearings. They're polyamide ball caged bearings (instead of steel caged). They're supposed to be quieter, stiffer and more flexible...
So wouldn't you want the 'open' side towards the lubrication?
I got it now. In the 7th photo of the original post, it looks like there is a gap between the black cage bit and the outer bearing race. So oil can get past that.
What's the point of even keeping the black seal on, when it's on the inside facing the gears? Why not just take it out?
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 02:21:19 +0000

Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
 
Addicted
'76 Vespa Rally 200
Joined: Mon, 14 Feb 2011 01:55:36 +0000
Posts: 617
Location: Melbourne
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 02:21:19 +0000 quote
nomadinsiam wrote:
What's the point of even keeping the black seal on, when it's on the inside facing the gears? Why not just take it out?
It's not a seal. See the picture SaFiS posted. It looks like it's a carrier for the ball bearings. We're seeing the back of it installed in the engine.
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 04:33:15 +0000

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:34:49 +0000
Posts: 2342
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: Sun, 17 Apr 2011 00:34:49 +0000
Posts: 2342
Location: Siam
Sun, 26 Aug 2018 04:33:15 +0000 quote
autojack wrote:
nomadinsiam wrote:
What's the point of even keeping the black seal on, when it's on the inside facing the gears? Why not just take it out?
It's not a seal. See the picture SaFiS posted. It looks like it's a carrier for the ball bearings. We're seeing the back of it installed in the engine.
Sorry, didn't realize that. I wonder if that would restrict lubrication.
OP
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:50:43 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:50:43 +0000 quote
qascooter wrote:
Wow, excellent pics PV! I'm glad you posted them. And yes, the engine stand looks fantastic. That's some serious engine rebuilding. Good job!

That engine stand has got me thinking about diy stands that aren't welded. Hmmm...
Yea, I just want to have something that can be disassembled to smaller pieces and put away. With the same base and different pipe setup, it also can hold those Motobecane, Mobylette engines.

Last edited by ph0ngvu on Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:57:16 +0000; edited 1 time
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:52:58 +0000

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:59:35 +0000
Posts: 7537
Location: Nashville
 
Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 08 Stella (for now)
Joined: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 14:59:35 +0000
Posts: 7537
Location: Nashville
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 16:52:58 +0000 quote
My current stand is one that I hacked together out of some random lumber. I worry it's going to collapse every time I kick a bike over on it.

I'll definitely going with the piping on a proper base route before my next rebuild.
OP
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 17:05:48 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 17:05:48 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
Nice job! How did you come to have all those pistons?

I hope you removed the cover/seal from the clutch side bearing? Seeing it has the proper seal on the other side you want some lubrication to get in there.

I went to Europe in April and was able to visit a couple scoot "swapmeet". Still lot of NOS parts being sold there. There was one guy with a full trunk of NOS pistons.
nomadinsiam wrote:
autojack wrote:
Ginch wrote:
SaFiS wrote:
These are not sealed bearings. They're polyamide ball caged bearings (instead of steel caged). They're supposed to be quieter, stiffer and more flexible...
So wouldn't you want the 'open' side towards the lubrication?
I got it now. In the 7th photo of the original post, it looks like there is a gap between the black cage bit and the outer bearing race. So oil can get past that.
What's the point of even keeping the black seal on, when it's on the inside facing the gears? Why not just take it out?
You are right. I was wondering why as well. Unfortunately, I did not know you can remove the bearing seal. Should I worry about the bearing not have enough lubrication?
GickSpeed wrote:
V oodoo wrote:
Oh, how I love seeing battered old motors being lovingly coaxed back to life. You are doing it first class w/ all quality new bearings etc.

I've always wondered about those yellow inserts in the main crank bores. I always thought they were brass and yours look to be, but I scrapped a motor that had plated iron inserts. They weren't dimpled all around in the case like yours, seemed original and I've seen enough of them to think they are maybe factory items in some motors?

Anybody know?
The dimples are not standard; someone has done this to stop the bearing from moving in the brass sleeve. I often see this on Asian bikes; this area is worn out. The right way to resolve this issue is to machine new brass sleeves and install. The early bikes had brass sleeves and later went to steel. Hope all that helps.
I see your point. I'm not original owner of this engine until 5 summers ago. It has 40+ years of unknown history.
OP
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:29:57 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:29:57 +0000 quote
some more porn.

Last edited by ph0ngvu on Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:46:15 +0000; edited 3 times
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:30:32 +0000

Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '66 Allstate SF, '65 VBB, '66 180SS
Joined: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 02:39:40 +0000
Posts: 1523
Location: S.Salem, NY
 
Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '66 Allstate SF, '65 VBB, '66 180SS
Joined: Thu, 28 Mar 2013 02:39:40 +0000
Posts: 1523
Location: S.Salem, NY
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:30:32 +0000 quote
I have to ask... how do you test a crank by putting it on a can ?
OP
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:42:43 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:42:43 +0000 quote
Moto64 wrote:
I have to ask... how do you test a crank by putting it on a can ?
I didn't really test it on the can. Gotta put it on something to take picture. What I did prior to that was to make sure the connecting rod doesn't slide side to side and everything else looks good visually.
OP
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:52:27 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Mon, 27 Aug 2018 20:52:27 +0000 quote
weird, last post images were out of order.


install cylinder styds


get the engine bolts on. I reused most of original bolt and screws. Some people are against it and use new one but why not reuse when they are in great shape.


clutch time! replace corks, plates


all good to go


change out worn part of clutch lever.


clutch in, bend the tab


clutch cover on


original factory 3 ports and header. A Piaggio NOS 57.8 piston go with it.


mount the piston and rings.


gasket in place, piston ring compressed, sliding cylinder over.


looking good, arrow down.


header in place. Did not clean as it should be.


original flywheel & stator next.


looks like flywheel magnetizing is still very good.


install stator


put on woodruff key


install NOS coil without any thinking


then realizing original stator is messed up and needs some new parts. Replaced with NOS condensor, coils and point


all set


preadjust timing a little and temporary screw in flywheel.

OP
Tue, 28 Aug 2018 18:35:09 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Tue, 28 Aug 2018 18:35:09 +0000 quote
more and more


Selector looks to be ok just need clean up and not rebuild.


gasket


slide it in


and done


Carb time


stock carburetor looks great


rebuilding time. Taken apart.


all clean and assemble time with new parts from Dellorto kit.


on board


considering on a 40+ yrs old engine, stock filter is still in great shape. A quick clean and assemble


almost there. Time for the drum hub.


rubber seal on, installed circlip.


new brake pad or NOS or the one came with the engine?


installed


right torque? humm no idea :D Repaint? I think old patina looks great.


forgot to order castle nut pin. ScootMercato sold for .50c each + $3 shipping. Found a bunch at Home Depot around 49c for 3 :D


temporary installed exhaust to test the engine later


had to stole wifey baking "equipment" to inject oil =)


oil is in and letting it sits overnight to see any leakage.

Wed, 29 Aug 2018 02:37:58 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 02:37:58 +0000 quote
After using the motor for a week, dump that gear oil and get yourself some GL4 rated... GL5 has additives that attack the brass bits (in the clutch).
OP
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 19:57:11 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 19:57:11 +0000 quote
Engine started for the first time in years which is not bad for one with bunch of original parts.




repaint the exhaust with high heat resistant.


only found high heat resistant up to 750c. Hope this will last.


put it back on the frame, connect fuel lines, clutch, throttle cables ...


engine started after a few kicks.


redo the wiring.


Old parts but nice and neat along with ring wire connector from HomeDepot.

Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:05:16 +0000

Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 13:26:21 +0000
Posts: 1887
Location: UK (South East)
 
Molto Verboso
One or two fun scoots....nothing too precious
Joined: Wed, 17 Jul 2013 13:26:21 +0000
Posts: 1887
Location: UK (South East)
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:05:16 +0000 quote
Are you sure about that gear selector rod in the photo under the one with the gaskets? It looks pretty mangled to me, unless it's my eye sight that's bad.
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:32:55 +0000

Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 2008 Stella (Olive)
Joined: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:25:08 +0000
Posts: 3581
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62), 2008 Stella (Olive)
Joined: Wed, 11 Jan 2006 15:25:08 +0000
Posts: 3581
Location: Florence, OR
Wed, 29 Aug 2018 20:32:55 +0000 quote
Very Nice - I love following along - thanks for posting the pics!
OP
Thu, 30 Aug 2018 19:28:38 +0000

Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
 
OP
Hooked
Vespa
Joined: Thu, 26 May 2016 02:30:32 +0000
Posts: 489
Location: US
Thu, 30 Aug 2018 19:28:38 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
After using the motor for a week, dump that gear oil and get yourself some GL4 rated... GL5 has additives that attack the brass bits (in the clutch).
Really, I did not know this.
Fri, 31 Aug 2018 02:38:05 +0000

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and new to 2018, '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: Thu, 01 Dec 2011 00:47:42 +0000
Posts: 8180
Location: Victoria, Australia
Fri, 31 Aug 2018 02:38:05 +0000 quote
ph0ngvu wrote:
Ginch wrote:
After using the motor for a week, dump that gear oil and get yourself some GL4 rated... GL5 has additives that attack the brass bits (in the clutch).
Really, I did not know this.
To be honest I have no idea how long it takes to do damage, but you may as well use the right stuff.
Fri, 31 Aug 2018 02:46:21 +0000

Banned
2001 LML 150 2t
Joined: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 21:48:10 +0000
Posts: 382
Location: Queensland, Aus
 
Banned
2001 LML 150 2t
Joined: Sun, 16 Jul 2017 21:48:10 +0000
Posts: 382
Location: Queensland, Aus
Fri, 31 Aug 2018 02:46:21 +0000 quote
Ginch wrote:
ph0ngvu wrote:
Ginch wrote:
After using the motor for a week, dump that gear oil and get yourself some GL4 rated... GL5 has additives that attack the brass bits (in the clutch).
Really, I did not know this.
To be honest I have no idea how long it takes to do damage, but you may as well use the right stuff.
... like this one?

https://pbs.twimg.com/profile_images/849075007984734208/l3NlQtFM_400x400.jpg
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