Started with the helmet cover.
This is made from black PP plastic.
Searched for a long time for black PP plastic, that was not easy.
Most of the PP plastic is grey.
But i found some and started making them to the right size.
Welded them from 2 sides.
The outside is easy, inside was a bit harder.
Cant reach it with the heatgun, but managed to do it.
Under the seat there will be 2 zones, first is where the airfilter will be.
The second zone is where i place a lock, gloves and other small stuff.
Last edited by Arnoh on Fri Jul 31, 2020 3:49 am; edited 2 times in total
The Runner has no RPM indicator.
But that is going to change.
Did some testing today with a old 50cc cockpit.
The RMP indicator is from Koso.
The sticker of the cockpit will be custom made, with the extra opening for the RPM indicator.
The rest will look just like original, and the text Gilera will be placed above the speedometer.
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Location: Veria, Greece
Lets start with this task...
The plan was to use the Vespa GTS dual throttle system.
But with the 2 extra bends i had to make to make it fit it turns heavy.
So i won't use the return cable.
To keep it safe, i will install a Piaggio Mp3 500 kill switch.
Gave it the same position as the left light switch, but then on the right side .
Also tested the rmp indicator on the Beverly, it is verry accurate with the original Beverly rpm indicator.
What is displayed is times 10.
Started with routing the brake lines.
Need some other clamp sizes, the rest is okay.
At the rear i applied black teflon spiral where the rear fender begins.
When doing that, the brake line blends in a bit.
Looks better in my opinion.
Checked where all the lines have to.
Next step, electrical crap...
The cilinderhead cover and downpipe are now at Zircotec.
They will recieve a Endurance Graphite ceramic coating.
This reduces the heat from those parts for around 25%.
Cockpit layout is coming together.
In the layout there is place for the rpm indicator.
And the text is changed at some places.
Because the fuel tank is bigger at the front now.
There was no room for the horn, fuses and light relay.
So made a small bracket to place them beside the bigger fuel tank.
Wiring is coming together.
Soon i can connect the battery and test the electrical systems.
The voltage regulator is behind the right side cover.
It will get cold air from the side air intake in the side cover.
But to give it some extra flow i modified and installed a small 12 volt fan.
Also made the hole for the fuse box, and placed them in the helmet conver.
It is below in the tank.
How does the fuel gauge work with your custom tank? I mean, how does it get calibrated to read the correct level with a custom setup?
And it can only measure the last 5 litres.
So when the fuel gauge goes down, i know i am running on the last 5 litres.
Started putting the cockpit back together.
First had to close the hole for the daycounter. ( not installed in this one, but the plate is the same)
Did that with the Bison 2 component glue.
When it was dry/hard, i made the new hole for the rpm indicator.
In the new housing there was no place for the Koso rpm indicator.
So opened the new housing, and took a part out of a housing that did had a rpm indicator.
First melted in place with the same stainless steel mats that i used for the fuel tank.
Then put on the 2 component glue.
On the km counter i made a small flat mounting spot, to mount on the Koso rpm indicator.
Made it with the same stuff as the housing.
Placed the sticker, and glued in the small end pins.
Modified the warning lights from a Gilera Runner pure jet.
This has the ecu warning light.
And added the overtemp light, this is what a Beverly Cruiser 500 original has.
Worked on the engine.
Removed the left lower engine lug.
Did this because the engine is top mounted, and where the left lower engine lug was, there needs to be space for the new frame.
The right lower engine lug was already gone, that is alway's the case with a Cruiser 500 engine.
Removed the original cilinderhead and cilinder.
All is still verry clean, but that is what you can expect with only 3221Km.
Installed the new HPE cilinder and piston with a ceramic coating.
Measured the thickness for the base gasket.
Installed 4 new studs.
Installed the new modified cilinderhead.
The cilinderhead cover is for now the one without the ceramic coating.
Testfitted the good engine.
And installed the new switches in the new cockpit cover.
The new front and side covers are at the car paint shop.
The last few steps of the fabrication process.
Next is the assembly process!
Made the protective plate that goes on the front fork.
It keeps the dirt away from the steering bearing.
Removed the old steering bearing.
Cleaned up the bearing area.
Installed the new bearing and covered it with with the old bearing.
Now the frame is ready for powder coating.
Got the front fork crown piece back from the paintshop.
On this one is the costum made Runner steering tube mounted.
Took the new Beverly front fork apart, and mounted it on the modified crown piece for the Runner.
Installed Bitubo progressive springs and fork oil.
Kawasaki Z1000, Yamaha R1, Honda SH300i
Joined: 08 Oct 2008
Location: London, UK
Got the cilinderhead cover and exhaust front pipe back from Zircotec.
They applied the Endurance Graphite ceramic coating on these parts.
This reduces the heat from these parts around 15%.
Prepaired the front wheel.
Installed 2 old bearings, and the air valve.
The wheel will first get balanced this way.
Then i will remove the bearings and air valve and send the wheel off for powder coating.
Got this numberplate made, i can put this over the original plate with magnets when i want to make pictures of the bike.
The modified inlet manifold is back from the blaster.
The is frame back from powder coating.
It first got a thermal zinc coating, and after that it is powder coated.
The smaller parts are powder coated aswel.
The front wheel also got powder coated, the name of this color is Tiger.
Installed the left lower cooling tube.
This copper tube is also powder coated.
Installed the custom crossflow radiator.
And the new dual ignition coil.
And the engine is in.
Also installed the NGK Laser Iridium spark plugs.
They last alot longer, saves me alot of inspections and removing of the left cover.
The side stand is placed back aswel.
Installed the spal cooler and the radiator cover.
And the tyre is now on the wheel.
Installed all the brake lines on the front fork.
Installed all the bearings, and used plenty of grease.
And installed the front fork in the frame.
Also installed the black powder coated brake lever, i did not like the shiney one.
And resumed with the cooling system.
The battery on the right is the one that i will use.
Finished the fuel system.
The fuel line is a new original line from a Beverly.
Took out what i need on both ends.
From the injector it has to make a sharp bend, and this also has to stay that way.
The way to do this is to insert around 22cm of 8mm copper brake line.
These are easy to bend.
This only works on places where the fuel line is in a fixed position. (No moving parts)
The original clutch was in a perfect condition.
But for the extra power i will use a Dr Pulley hit clutch.
Installed it with 2 spacer washers.
Special thanks to my good friend Röwac!
Kawasaki Z1000, Yamaha R1, Honda SH300i
Joined: 08 Oct 2008
Location: London, UK
It will be fine tuned on the power bench. (Dyno)
I'm sure I missed it, but what are your plans for tuning the ecu? It looks amazing!
Inlet manifold is different from original, so it has to be adjusted to that.
And try to get the maximum power out.
Last edited by Arnoh on Sat Sep 19, 2020 11:17 am; edited 1 time in total
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