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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Well I have a couple of questions, is this ok or do I need a wider con rod? Of course I Gunna get wide ass bearing . Also if that's not ok can I grind this down to fit a wider rod or will that weaken the crank? The cylinder kit on this engine is a Athena Racing 70cc, crank is a bzm crank, crankcase is custom made. I can't fit a wider Rod on this crank without grinding that because than the crank will rub the crankcase. If I can't grind it then I guess I'll have to get a custom rod which btw who makes custom rods?
This is the photo I was referring to when I said, is this ok?
This is what I wanna grind down
Here's the crank
Here's the crank in the case
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Think about this - when the piston is located in the bore, how far sideways (relative to the crank) can it move?
Also - grab the conrod and see how far sideways (between the crank webs) it can move. The answer is (in case you were wondering) is bugger all. I wouldn't worry about it. |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Ginch wrote: Think about this - when the piston is located in the bore, how far sideways (relative to the crank) can it move? Also - grab the conrod and see how far sideways (between the crank webs) it can move. The answer is (in case you were wondering) is bugger all. I wouldn't worry about it. |
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8832 Location: Victoria, Australia |
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Is it actually touching the crank though? They normally have a spacer between the crank web and the conrod on both sides.
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Ginch wrote: Is it actually touching the crank though? They normally have a spacer between the crank web and the conrod on both sides. And it does rub |
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8832 Location: Victoria, Australia |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Ginch wrote: Is that one you put together yourself? Obviously it shouldn't be rubbing. |
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8832 Location: Victoria, Australia |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Posts: 81 Location: Texas |
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Ginch wrote: So if it's new crank, send it back! |
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8832 Location: Victoria, Australia |
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If it's the big end, there will be movement up and down felt at the conrod. The traditional way to test is put your middle finger through the little end of the conrod, make a fist and let the crank hang. Then hit your hand with the other hand. If there is movement in there, apparently you should hear a ringing sound from the crank.
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Ginch wrote: If it's the big end, there will be movement up and down felt at the conrod. The traditional way to test is put your middle finger through the little end of the conrod, make a fist and let the crank hang. Then hit your hand with the other hand. If there is movement in there, apparently you should hear a ringing sound from the crank. |
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UTC
Enthusiast
2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Posts: 81 Location: Texas |
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quote
Ginch wrote: If it's the big end, there will be movement up and down felt at the conrod. The traditional way to test is put your middle finger through the little end of the conrod, make a fist and let the crank hang. Then hit your hand with the other hand. If there is movement in there, apparently you should hear a ringing sound from the crank. |
Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8832 Location: Victoria, Australia |
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various handlebars and smallframes
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Posts: 33 Location: Chattanooga Tn |
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various handlebars and smallframes
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I hope Im not intruding but I rebuild a fair amount of crankshafts for single and multicylinder two strokes and four strokes and may be able to offer some insight:
On a factory Oem crankshaft I have never seen one that would rub the webs if an axial load (side to side) was put on the rod. Not to say that it doesnt exist. I have just not seen it. The best way to know is to measure the gap between the big end and the web. Many are around .02". If that spec is close and you still have over a mm or 2 side to side movement, you probably have radial (up and down) play as well. Hope this helps Joe |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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saintscycleworks wrote: I hope Im not intruding but I rebuild a fair amount of crankshafts for single and multicylinder two strokes and four strokes and may be able to offer some insight: On a factory Oem crankshaft I have never seen one that would rub the webs if an axial load (side to side) was put on the rod. Not to say that it doesnt exist. I have just not seen it. The best way to know is to measure the gap between the big end and the web. Many are around .02". If that spec is close and you still have over a mm or 2 side to side movement, you probably have radial (up and down) play as well. Hope this helps Joe |
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I have a crank from a TS1 240 with the con rod that just barely rubs on the webs. There's a reason why that crank now gathers dust on the shelf and is not still in the engine.
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various handlebars and smallframes
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Posts: 33 Location: Chattanooga Tn |
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various handlebars and smallframes
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Posts: 33 Location: Chattanooga Tn |
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Enthusiast
2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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saintscycleworks wrote: Sounds like you need a rebuild. |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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matty5 wrote: saintscycleworks would be the first one I'd ask. |
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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2003 Derbi bullet 2 stroke
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Just in case anyone's wondering I decided to just buy a new crank. For the price of the rod and rebuild it was the same as a new crank.
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