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Hi
Looks like I will be replacing the rear hub bearing on my ET2, the manual says to tap the new bearing with a specific Piaggio tool (pic). This is a bit pricey for something I'll probably only use once and a bit hard to get hold of. Has anyone fitted one without (guessing all modern vespas are pretty similar?)
I was just going to warm the casing gently, freeze the bearing and tap it in with the back of a large socket or something similar...

Cheers
Rich
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Sockets have different diameters. The right size socket and a block of wood works most of the time.
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Or go to Auto Zone and buy or borrow for free a seal/race install tool.
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Re: Changing hub bearing
Ned81 wrote:
Hi
Looks like I will be replacing the rear hub bearing on my ET2, the manual says to tap the new bearing with a specific Piaggio tool (pic). This is a bit pricey for something I'll probably only use once and a bit hard to get hold of. Has anyone fitted one without (guessing all modern vespas are pretty similar?)
I was just going to warm the casing gently, freeze the bearing and tap it in with the back of a large socket or something similar...

Cheers
Rich
that will work fine.
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Re: Changing hub bearing
old as dirt wrote:
Ned81 wrote:
Hi
Looks like I will be replacing the rear hub bearing on my ET2, the manual says to tap the new bearing with a specific Piaggio tool (pic). This is a bit pricey for something I'll probably only use once and a bit hard to get hold of. Has anyone fitted one without (guessing all modern vespas are pretty similar?)
I was just going to warm the casing gently, freeze the bearing and tap it in with the back of a large socket or something similar...

Cheers
Rich
that will work fine.
Don't like abusing my tools.
This was drilled into my head in Jr High Shop Class by Primitive Pete
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Cheers for the replies, back on a computer after the weekend, can't seem to get the forum to work on my phone.

Before I go any further I've read in a few different post that vespas tend to have a small amount of play in the rear wheel and this is quite normal. It doesn't feel 'right' to me but if this is normal then I'll leave the bearing as it is.

I've tried to show the amount of movement I have on a video, link to the least exciting 13 seconds on youtube below. Any ideas welcome

Thanks

Rich
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looks normal amount of play
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old as dirt wrote:
looks normal amount of play
Cheers, I will leave it and keep an eye on it. I'm not used to being able to move a wheel like that
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Ned81 wrote:
I've tried to show the amount of movement I have on a video, link to the least exciting 13 seconds on youtube below. Any ideas welcome
Yeah, normal without the wheel. How's it look with wheel installed?
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bluecloud wrote:
Ned81 wrote:
I've tried to show the amount of movement I have on a video, link to the least exciting 13 seconds on youtube below. Any ideas welcome
Yeah, normal without the wheel. How's it look with wheel installed?
Probably a similar amount, I could feel it when pulling on the wheel but nothing you'd notice riding. The wheel's still off, I've a couple of jobs to do before it can go back on like remove the rusted remains of what was possibly the original split pin, the tyres are original vespa branded ones (to be replaced)so I don't think the wheel's been off before! The nut took some shifting...
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Ned, end play on the gearbox output drive shaft is quite normal and that doesn't look excessive to be honest. I've seen worse. All scooter rear gearbox output shafts have this on all makes of scooter. What you don't want, as you will know is up and down play on the shaft which shows the bearing is failing. With the wheel on the bike you should also have an amount of rotational play when you rock the wheel forwards and backwards rotationally. This is just gear backlash and again is normal. Replace the bearings in the gearbox by all means, it might help but I reckon it will be just the same once you have done it. Oh...look out for any shims that are in there. Sometimes they split and or break and fall into the bottom of the gearbox which can cause an increase in shaft end play. I don't know if your bike has shims though but many bikes do.

Regarding the removal of the gearbox bearings, you won't normally need a bearing puller. Just a heat gun (not a hair dryer). Get the case nice and hot around the bearing/s and the bearing should just drop out or you can pull it with a gloved finger. Rarely have I ever needed a bearing puller on bike or car gearboxes using that method. Same to replace the bearing. Freeze bearing, heat case, but lube very lightly with some dry PTFE or the tiniest thinnest smear of bearing grease before dropping in the bearing. A light tap of the bearing with a suitable drift is all that's normally required to make sure the bearing is fully home. Job done! Good luck.
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Stromrider wrote:
Ned, end play on the gearbox output drive shaft is quite normal and that doesn't look excessive to be honest. I've seen worse. All scooter rear gearbox output shafts have this on all makes of scooter. What you don't want, as you will know is up and down play on the shaft which shows the bearing is failing. With the wheel on the bike you should also have an amount of rotational play when you rock the wheel forwards and backwards rotationally. This is just gear backlash and again is normal. Replace the bearings in the gearbox by all means, it might help but I reckon it will be just the same once you have done it. Oh...look out for any shims that are in there. Sometimes they split and or break and fall into the bottom of the gearbox which can cause an increase in shaft end play. I don't know if your bike has shims though but many bikes do.

Regarding the removal of the gearbox bearings, you won't normally need a bearing puller. Just a heat gun (not a hair dryer). Get the case nice and hot around the bearing/s and the bearing should just drop out or you can pull it with a gloved finger. Rarely have I ever needed a bearing puller on bike or car gearboxes using that method. Same to replace the bearing. Freeze bearing, heat case, but lube very lightly with some dry PTFE or the tiniest thinnest smear of bearing grease before dropping in the bearing. A light tap of the bearing with a suitable drift is all that's normally required to make sure the bearing is fully home. Job done! Good luck.
Thanks for the advice, there's no up/down play, just a little rotational play as you describe so I think I'll leave it and keep an eye on things. I've fit bearings in other things using heat/cold so good to hear that should be fine if I need to do it in the future.

Cheers,
Rich (Ned is my border collie, and he would've had this all figured out long before me )
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