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79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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UTC quote
Thanks for the explanation CM - it's very helpful and makes sense...Actually, you've managed to explain things and make sense of a lot of the ...magic... pertaining to the beautiful little beasts.... Much appreciated!
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Thanks Hibbert.
The SI's are a challenge - but they do have many levers.
I like to think of it as a recipe - there is more than one way to get it done.
Cross over of effects from pulling any lever is the challenge...

I would be interested to see what happens if you put a BE4 in yours.
Might leave you too rich in the middle - but does it get rid of your hiccup at transition.
If yes - then you know its an issue of being too lean there - rather than too rich.
Not saying it is the best solution - just a means to clarifying what's going on with yours.
As noted - any change has overlap.

As I've watched your tune - it seams that as you have tried to nock out that pause - its driven you to an idle jet that reads very rich on the plug.
That BE5 should really be before the BE4, should have called it the BE3.5
@ginch avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Ginch must have skimmed and not noticed.
Touché, Sir. Touché.


Obviously the Smart carb works on that angle, but what is the limit for the float angle? I imagine at that angle the volume in the float bowl is affected?
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
112 now. That's small. But not so small on a AC120/BE4, these being the richest two tools in the factory box. Guessing it revs nicer now. If you've been lean in the middle all this time, the power will now be up. Done another Dyno yet?
With the 1/4 bog fixed the pilot should be easier to set. Would be happy to see a final pilot that ends with 120 or 100.

Smartcarb still has a manifold and block. SI has neither. No turbulence is like a bigger carb. Always said a 24/24 is equivalent to a 28 side draught. Theory still holds firm.

If you're bored there's still the packer to change.
@christopher_55934 avatar
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@christopher_55934 avatar
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
charlieman22 wrote:
Ginch must have skimmed and not noticed.
Touché, Sir. Touché.


Obviously the Smart carb works on that angle, but what is the limit for the float angle? I imagine at that angle the volume in the float bowl is affected?
I was wondering the same thing.
OP
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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UTC quote
Good stuff gents.
Got out and drove the golfer's crazy with what must have been 2 dozen speed runs.
Must be a treat lining up to tee off, as an orange bodge sitting at 9K RPM comes down the length of the fairway (my run is right next to the 17th).
🙂

For the life of me - could not get a good recording out of any of the runs.
They all showed up on my camera phone - but were terrible when imported in to the GSF software.
The recordings I did manage to extract - all came up to about 17.5HP - consistently tho.
Hoping someone is going to have mercy on me and build the first direct recording board.
Someone with some electronics and communications savvy.
Chandlerman & Craig - we are looking at you.

Jack - I tried the mid throttle hold you asked about. Marked the throttle to make sure I was right at 1/2. It was happy to wind up to about 8100 RPM before it didn't really want to go any farther. Would it go more with a BE3? maybe - but not sure. Remember - I am carrying twice the weight and wind resistance at 53+MPH in 3rd like that
Quote:
Smartcarb still has a manifold and block
well - mine just has manifold now - and not much of one of those either - but I get your point. SI does produce power for its size.
Quote:
Touché, Sir. Touché.
🙂
Quote:
Obviously the Smart carb works on that angle, but what is the limit for the float angle? I imagine at that angle the volume in the float bowl is affected?
Quote:
I was wondering the same thing.
So was I - so I experimented.
I don't think its at its absolute max - but no matter how hard I have run it - over every type of train - it never runs dry.
My guess - I could sneak another 5° out of it.

The float bowl has an extra deep well where the pickup tube goes in - see pic below - so there is already an extra reservoir. I also opened it up and bent the float tab to increase the height of the resting fuel to compensate for the tilt.

The smart carb guy gave me a great tip.
He said if I had it too high, when I got on the brakes heavy - the motor would basically flood as fuel would poor out the hole in the bottom of the carb throat.
So I raised the level to just below that when tilted at about 40°.

I have all but worn out my front disc - and never had that flooding happen...
The opposite would be - running out of fuel - if the float level was too low.
When I first got the carb - I suffered this - as I had it slightly tilted down hill.
They don't like to operate that way.
Anyway - I know what running dry feels and sounds like and have never had that happen with the carb like this. Not even run at WOT for a mile to do plug chop.

They like to be tilted downhill like I have it - thats how they are on dirt bikes.
Float level eems to be as good as flat when run at this angle with float tab adjusted.
Paid a fortune for this - then after being disgusted by the repeated loosening and after Jack's prior comments on loss due to distance - I took things into my own hands
Paid a fortune for this - then after being disgusted by the repeated loosening and after Jack's prior comments on loss due to distance - I took things into my own hands
This is what's left.  Got rid of the block entirely.
This is what's left. Got rid of the block entirely.
Base plate was so thick - I was able to use it as the block.  Drilled holes to align with cases nicely and use studs - as WDC and others suggested
Base plate was so thick - I was able to use it as the block. Drilled holes to align with cases nicely and use studs - as WDC and others suggested
That extra bit on the bottom of the float bowl is like a second reservoir.
That extra bit on the bottom of the float bowl is like a second reservoir.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Hoping someone is going to have mercy on me and build the first direct recording board.
Someone with some electronics and communications savvy.
Chandlerman & Craig - we are looking at you.
A few months ago Craig told me it would take 10 minutes.
OP
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Oh man - its so frustrating to do repeated runs - drive all the way back to the house - download to computer - upload to the internet to covert movies to sound files - download sound files - open GSF - and see this:

(also - Craig now trying to figure out what bus ran him over while he was sitting all comfy reading the paper and sipping coffee).

*edit - just need someone to post a simple how to with pics - 'cause I only skimmed the GSF 10 page dissertation...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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UTC quote
Not exactly a side draught anymore. Shortest manifold anyone ever had. If it runs clean it will be catching up the 24/24 now (but still behind).

Seems like the BE4 is too much, which is as expected. If you have a BE1 or 5 that will work. If not put the BE3 back in and up the pilot with reduced air (100 or 120 ending as said before).

If stuck at 17.5 bhp it really needs a bigger packer. It's choked up and can't breathe. Like struggling.
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Save me
112/BE3/52-120
112/BE3/52-120
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UTC quote
I think we need to build one of the boards for direct input. Let me see if I can find a parts list. Maybe we can put it on a breadboard.
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UTC quote
Christopher - kindly responded to my cry for help.
🙂

Ever since I put the carb box top on - it no longer seems to be able to identify a curve - using the same method I was using prior...

BTW - Jack - I threw in a 52/120 - down from a 55/160 - and put back in the BE3. Carb box top is on. 112MJ.
Revs out nicely on speed run.
Half throttle revs no further than prior when held in 3rd (8300) and the big gulp is back at transition point.
I'll toy with some options to see if I can smooth out.

Side note: I like to jet in with the box top off. I tend to lean it to the point of danger in search of max peak power - so when I then add the box top back on - I am probably enriching it at least one if not two increments back toward safety. With cut I made to the bell mouth to allow remove al jets - the main jet job is a lot quicker.
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
As we now know the low rpm issues are due to lean running, everything has changed. Might be not as expected. Just to see what happens, leave the 52/120 in and try the BE4 again. Looking to get some actual 4 stroking at 1/4 throttle. On an SI there is no hard connection between throttle position and any jet. More like an SU carb in functionality. Mid throttle rev out might be low because it is too lean. Possible.
If 1/4 now runs rich, move down the 100 or 120 range until it is good.
Sure the 112 is rich enough?
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Tks for the further input.
Quote:
Sure the 112 is rich enough?
Well - I always wonder.
And I haven't plug chopped.
But...

Temps are totally under control.
Plug see below.
No pinging when I torture it up hill in low gear.
No aluminum on plug or piston evident.

Under normal circumstances - I would go straight to plug chop now - however - I am hoping to get the SC back on - this was a diversion while I await the metering rods. If they are here by week's end - ill swap back and keep the prior trial going.

If not - I'll plug chop.
In the mean time - I will try that BE4 again and see how it does - and see if I have anything richer than the 52/120 that's plunked in there now.
Plug looks like this after I ran around on it a bit with the MJ112 - no carb top
Plug looks like this after I ran around on it a bit with the MJ112 - no carb top
Piston looks ok to me as well - color starting to grow outwardly - can't hear any pinging - so don't think I am damaging... look ma - no hands
Piston looks ok to me as well - color starting to grow outwardly - can't hear any pinging - so don't think I am damaging... look ma - no hands
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
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Nedminder
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Quote:
Looking to get some actual 4 stroking at 1/4 throttle.
Missed this.
So are you thinking it might be a steep linear curve - and what it actually needs is a bit more in the middle and a bit less on the bottom? or more on the bottom?
⚠️ Last edited by charlieman22 on UTC; edited 1 time
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Nedminder
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Quote:
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Wait, what!?
Very cool.
That's like seeing a golden ticket in a Wonka bar (that needs a potentiometer).
Analogy is a little tortured - I admit.

Ok - sooo - assuming one can put a potentiometer in and it would be solved - where in the world does that board connect to to give you the recording - and does it do it to your phone?

Details man, details.
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Where did you hook up to for a signal? You could replace R3 which should be 10,000 ohms, get a 50 k potentiometer. I was experimenting with the microphone level output and using the stator voltage as the input. The circuit is really just a tachometer. The amplitude of the signal doesn't matter except to the recording device. Guessing a larger signal might be cleaner also. I posted a bit more in the other thread. I'm planning on using the output from my stator, I think if you have a few signal for your headlight you should be able to use that. My Stella has regulated 12 volt as so I need to hook up an oscope to see what it looks like.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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UTC quote
Here is the circuit. Think it was hooked up like this on the right... although I did notice this morning that one of the wires did not appear to be connected to anything! Was taped up so no idea how long it's been like that.

http://atom007.heimat.eu/tmt/gsf_dyno.html
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Quote:
Looking to get some actual 4 stroking at 1/4 throttle.
Missed this.
So are you thinking it might be a steep linear curve - and what it actually needs is a bit more in the middle and a bit less on the bottom? or more on the bottom?
Was just after seeing where the 1/4 limit is to make it splutter. With no progression bog the BE4 is running better than the BE3 but likely a BE5 will suit better as is also normal.
If BE4 and 52/120 has no rich bog, then check mixture screw turns and see where to go next. Get this done before the SC goes back on and will be a nice confirmation for the other CM.
SC and packer change going on together?
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Where did you hook up to for a signal? You could replace R3 which should be 10,000 ohms, get a 50 k potentiometer. I was experimenting with the microphone level output and using the stator voltage as the input. The circuit is really just a tachometer. The amplitude of the signal doesn't matter except to the recording device. Guessing a larger signal might be cleaner also. I posted a bit more in the other thread. I'm planning on using the output from my stator, I think if you have a few signal for your headlight you should be able to use that. My Stella has regulated 12 volt as so I need to hook up an oscope to see what it looks like.
I had one wire earthed on the case and the other attached to AC out at the junction box.
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Where did you hook up to for a signal? You could replace R3 which should be 10,000 ohms, get a 50 k potentiometer. I was experimenting with the microphone level output and using the stator voltage as the input. The circuit is really just a tachometer. The amplitude of the signal doesn't matter except to the recording device. Guessing a larger signal might be cleaner also. I posted a bit more in the other thread. I'm planning on using the output from my stator, I think if you have a few signal for your headlight you should be able to use that. My Stella has regulated 12 volt as so I need to hook up an oscope to see what it looks like.
I had one wire earthed on the case and the other attached to AC out at the junction box.
Do you have a multimeter that you can measure volts A.C. ? I'd be curious to see some real world numbers. Also, what is your headlight hooked up go? Ive seen some that are A.C. and come directly from the stator unregulated. If you have that give it a try. A reading of headlight voltage would be nice also.

If you think your saturated replace R3 with a larger resistor, your reducing your input not going to hurt the recorder. R3 and R4 are a voltage divider for the 0.5 volts in the circuit. As R3 resistance goes up the voltage goes up in that resistor so R4 gets less voltage.
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
OK...so I finally caught up on this thread after losing it back in early June. Holy crap did I miss a lot!

So much BGM goodness.

I'll be curious to see how the MHR compares in your tests. I had a chance to ride a PX with the MHR and a Megadella exhaust. It had good punch in the power band (peak power was 23 HP), but was really weak until it got there. I don't think that he'd done anything to move the port timings, just opened up the transfers.

I've mostly been busy either earning a living (work-from-home having turned into never-stop-working-at-home), working on the VBB, or working on whatever else comes up around the house.

All looking so good. I'm jealous of the terrain around you for riding, too! Nothing that beautiful or interesting here in N. Illinois.
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Nedminder
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Quote:
So much BGM goodness.
I'll be curious to see how the MHR compares in your tests. I had a chance to ride a PX with the MHR and a Megadella exhaust. It had good punch in the power band (peak power was 23 HP), but was really weak until it got there. I don't think that he'd done anything to move the port timings, just opened up the transfers.
Have been loving it - but I can feel some of the tug gone with the low end currently after the first lift.
That could well be down to jetting - so I'm not passing judgment yet - but that is in part why I have resisted lifting more.
Wanna c what the last move created when properly fueled.

Never seen the Megadella - please tell me its not something else I NEED to buy.

The whole discussion around GSF Dyno ties in as well. I would like to benchmark all these so we can go on more than what I think is happening.

As for BE5 - I am "manufacturing" one from a BE3 as I type.
My good friends Q-Tip and JB combining to close off 50% of the BE3 hole surface at mid throttle area
My good friends Q-Tip and JB combining to close off 50% of the BE3 hole surface at mid throttle area
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Lucky
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UTC quote
here's a little info on the mega della.

Personally, if I were going to splash out for another box exhaust, I'd look at the Pipe Designs SBox. It looks like it matches extremely well with my reeded BGM.

For posterity, here's a curve for my BGM, which still has significant room for improvement on the jetting. When it was at its best, it was up close to 26 HP, but was more of a stoplight racer than a tourer and tended to want to overheat on the highway.

Right now, it's right around 20-21 HP, and that's with the motor pretty much pig rich enough that it fouls plugs since I blew up the motor on the stand. Eventually, I'll come back to it, I just haven't gotten there yet.

I want to get back onto the VBB project, which is kind've a weekend-only thing most of the time, and maybe even get a sidecar of my own going at some point. You've definitely set a good standard for that!
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
Ginch wrote:
Here's the circuit that Craig made. Tried it plugged into a little recorder but clipped all the waves (too loud signal coming in). He suggested a potentiometer in place of one of the resistors for some adjustment but not sure which one.
Where did you hook up to for a signal? You could replace R3 which should be 10,000 ohms, get a 50 k potentiometer. I was experimenting with the microphone level output and using the stator voltage as the input. The circuit is really just a tachometer. The amplitude of the signal doesn't matter except to the recording device. Guessing a larger signal might be cleaner also. I posted a bit more in the other thread. I'm planning on using the output from my stator, I think if you have a few signal for your headlight you should be able to use that. My Stella has regulated 12 volt as so I need to hook up an oscope to see what it looks like.
I had one wire earthed on the case and the other attached to AC out at the junction box.
Do you have a multimeter that you can measure volts A.C. ? I'd be curious to see some real world numbers. Also, what is your headlight hooked up go? Ive seen some that are A.C. and come directly from the stator unregulated. If you have that give it a try. A reading of headlight voltage would be nice also.

If you think your saturated replace R3 with a larger resistor, your reducing your input not going to hurt the recorder. R3 and R4 are a voltage divider for the 0.5 volts in the circuit. As R3 resistance goes up the voltage goes up in that resistor so R4 gets less voltage.
I have a cheapo multimeter that will read AC well enough.

It's my understanding that a regulator in the system has a system-wide effect on the voltage. So there's no measuring 'downstream' of the regulator... I know it's not exactly what you asked but was kind of what I got from the other thread on the GSF dyno. But if correct means you can't get a measurement of unregulated voltage unless the reg is disconnected?

Mine is also all DC, at least from the regulator on. Which is why I connected at the junction box before the regulator.
I have measured unregulated voltage before (stator power outputs disconnected from the loom) and from memory it climbed to 30 volts give or take.
@mxyztplk avatar
UTC

Hooked
GTS250ie ET4 VBA1T
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Location: Melbourne, Australia
 
Hooked
@mxyztplk avatar
GTS250ie ET4 VBA1T
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UTC quote
Hi Michael, I'm not really sure of everything you are doing but if you want to change a resistor then perhaps replace R1 & R2 with a 10K pot. Its centre tap will be the equivalent of the point where R1 & R2 are joined.
Bob.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
mxyztplk wrote:
Hi Michael, I'm not really sure of everything you are doing but if you want to change a resistor then perhaps replace R1 & R2 with a 10K pot. Its centre tap will be the equivalent of the point where R1 & R2 are joined.
Bob.
Cheers Bob!
OP
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Nedminder
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Bob - thanks for hopping in.
Think we made a little progress on this today stateside.
WhenI say "we" - I really mean Christopher - who it turns out - is not afraid to bread board some ideas.
Will wait to claim victory surrounding his heroics on this until we do an actual road test - but it looks really promising.

He's also iterated it so it can read 4.5V of input signal - which is what my koso filter outputs from the spark plug lead induction.
I hope to be road testing at the weekend.
The graphs I got with his lab recordings are crazy clean - taking a matter of moments to erase the echoed lines that are unwanted - before graphing - and crystal clear curves.

The output he used was from a sound generating machine he had (I'll let Christopher explain) which he just created the sound by turning a nob on.
The breadboarded PCB he made, captured and interpreted the sound, with his iPhone recording from that board.

Here is a quick preview of what the output looks like in the GSF software.
Hat tip to Christopher for sorting through it until it produced lines that looked this clean. Hope it works on the scoot!
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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Location: Victoria, Australia
 
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UTC quote
Wow.
@christopher_55934 avatar
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Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
I didn't change R1 or R2. R1 is in series with the entire circuit reducing the voltage to everything. The components aren't specified for what could be a higher voltage if changing R1 to a lower value.

R3 and R4 are setup to be a voltage divider to adjust input voltage to your microphone. Those are what I adjusted.

R4 needs to be a larger value resistor around 1600 ohms from what I read, and what I measured on my iPhone microphone headsets at home. This larger value let's the iPhone automatically switch to external microphone with no user input.

So far I've only tried it with my iPhone 6s, once we see how it turns out for Ned we can go from there.

I've also found out microphones are not wired the same on all brands of phones or tablets. There are at least two different standards. That could be why some people are having issues. The microphone and ground connection can be swapped. So if your getting nothing or a steady hum that could be your issue. That is just the plugs with four connections.


More notes to come later.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Location: London UK
UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
As for BE5 - I am "manufacturing" one from a BE3 as I type.
Did it work?
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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UTC quote
7:45 am here.
Coffee in the cup.
Package arrives before noon today.
Plan to make a test run after I wire it up.
@christopher_55934 avatar
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2007 Stella 225
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2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
7:45 am here.
Coffee in the cup.
Package arrives before noon today.
Plan to make a test run after I wire it up.
The pessimist in me wants to see a good trace.
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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UTC quote
GSF Dyno Direct Recording
Update.
Christopher did a brilliant job with the board - works great!
Big thanks to him for digging in and deciphering the instructions - which I had only - skimmed. 🙂
Off to find his last post and click the thumbs up icon.

Kidding aside - his board produces a crystal clear signal.
Here is a vid of a speed run.
https://youtu.be/atDGGlfa83g
The sound is digitally produced - sounds kinda cool.
Below is what it looks like after I save the video as a WAV file.
I am still using my phone and the GPS video app - I have the board plugged in to the phone as a mic.
This gives me wind free digital output making it easy to edit and find my curve as I can see the actual speed run and just clip the video to that length.

I will post details on Cristophers wonderful board solution - and a how to for the GSF software - seperately.

In the mean time:
- Here are some runs with 112 and 115 jets.
- Im missing the jets I need to really tune it in properly.
Christopher's board - with some markings that will be posted on the how to thread
Christopher's board - with some markings that will be posted on the how to thread
I've attached it to the top of my control panel in the trunk of my sidecar - as one does.
I've attached it to the top of my control panel in the trunk of my sidecar - as one does.
This is what the recoding looks like in the GSF software.  So easy to clean. Takes only seconds.
This is what the recoding looks like in the GSF software. So easy to clean. Takes only seconds.
Results - SI carb. Don't have what I need to jet it in properly - so hard to have a full read on lifted and ported BGM
Results - SI carb. Don't have what I need to jet it in properly - so hard to have a full read on lifted and ported BGM
@christopher_55934 avatar
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Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
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Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
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@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
Looks like you need a few larger main jets to find peak power.
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Maybe...
Or maybe its a hair rich and needs to be 114 or 113.
Hard to say for certain.
Im at that point where its hard to identify any of the clues.
- Temps are same 112 vs 115
- No ping, no gray plug, nothing that would suggest 112 is too lean.
At this point - I normally move to trial and error.
Sometimes - just to error.
I'll run slightly richer and slightly leaner than the 115 and see how it looks on the graph.
Perhaps the GSF will identify for me the "optimal"

Your board is fun to have as a tool.
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
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Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Maybe...
Or maybe its a hair rich and needs to be 114 or 113.
Hard to say for certain.
Im at that point where its hard to identify any of the clues.
- Temps are same 112 vs 115
- No ping, no gray plug, nothing that would suggest 112 is too lean.
At this point - I normally move to trial and error.
Sometimes - just to error.
I'll run slightly richer and slightly leaner than the 115 and see how it looks on the graph.
Perhaps the GSF will identify for me the "optimal"

Your board is fun to have as a tool.
I'd be curious what AFR meter readings would look like. Hopefully the runs are repeatable enough to see what each change does for power and torque.
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
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Location: california
UTC quote
I am not an AFR user currently - but has my interest piqued.
What's your regimen?
Meter - bung - etc. it is permanent or just on the shop floor?
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I am not an AFR user currently - but has my interest piqued.
What's your regimen?
Meter - bung - etc. it is permanent or just on the shop floor?
On my Sito + , I had a reusable bung that I installed on the outlet pipe. On the SIP Big Box XL, I'm going to have to weld a bung on, not enough straight pipe to put a

https://www.plxdevices.com/MultiGauge-App-OBD-Car-to-Smartphone-Software-p/multigauge-app.htm


https://www.plxdevices.com/SM-AFR-Gen4-Wideband-AFR-with-MultiGauge-Link-p/897346002870.htm


https://www.amazon.com/AEM-30-2355-250-No-Weld-Sensor-Mount/dp/B003ISI6TI
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