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@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Ginch. Your trouble.

Lynn - appreciate that sentiment.
SUCH a fun ride - would be completely bummed if I trashed it.
That said - the difference (I think) between 12.6 and 13.6 is about 1 to 1.5 units of jet. So I'm really close to optimal.
The tweaking is just stubborn effort to make it "perfect".

Jack's advice on making it splutter is smart.
I already made a dumb error and ran it lean - but I got away with it.
The stuff I'm doing now is all icing on the cake.
I feel like I could jet an SI in so much faster and better now with the experience.
Im sure after I get it perfect - I'll throw a big ass jet in, appeasing Jack and learning how much under first splutter the right size jet ended up.

CM(O) - The EGT on magnets was a nice touch. Caused a good chuckle.

Pheas' - optical illusion. See pic below - I wiped the dark oil off. Not bodge poke through. CM bodge addition - reinforced the motor mount.

Oh - and ever since that thread on lights where Chandler man showed his - I've been thinking I need to up my game. Can't bring myself to pay $200 for an LED sealed beam - but the VBB is only 5" opening so most of what I found on Ali-express wouldn't fit. But I did find some 4.5" that actually measure bigger with their surround. Has an "angel" DRL (daylight running light) which I liked. Big upgrade from my prior solution.

Edit: bought light off Amazon: 2 for $44.95. Should last a lifetime.
fit to chrome ring.
fit to chrome ring.
Angel DLR - know some will find this ugly - but I kinda think it looks cool.  eye of the beholder...
Angel DLR - know some will find this ugly - but I kinda think it looks cool. eye of the beholder...
3K lumens.  nice cut off - like a German sedan.  To do it right - I should make it amiable with some brackets inside the headset like Chandlerman
3K lumens. nice cut off - like a German sedan. To do it right - I should make it amiable with some brackets inside the headset like Chandlerman
Pheas' this is a better shot of that reinforcement I made - my early welding work - thank god for the grinder...
Pheas' this is a better shot of that reinforcement I made - my early welding work - thank god for the grinder...
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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Lucky
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UTC quote
CM2.0 -- On my Sprint, I actually sprang for a nice JL Speaker headlight. The bummer was that the 4.75" light was too deep to mount without interfering with the key switch, so I'm running a 4.5". It still puts out a ton of light has a nice tight horizontal beam. It was also significantly more money, but has been rock solid.

Once I got used to decent lighting, I've found that it's one thing I will never give up. I do need to adjust the aim on mine, but am about to head out to the garage for some early wrenching before I ride tonight.

Lookin' good as always. I'm looking forward to seeing what you find out from the comparative AFM mounting points, too.

And don't downplay your welding skills--I don't weld at all right now!
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
CM2.0 -- On my Sprint, I actually sprang for a nice JL Speaker headlight. The bummer was that the 4.75" light was too deep to mount without interfering with the key switch, so I'm running a 4.5".
This one? Did you have to cut anything?

https://headlightrevolution.com/jw-speaker-model-8415-evolution-par36-4-5-round-led-headlight-12-24v-sae-ece-led-high-low-beam-light-with-xenoy-housing-adjustable-mount/
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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UTC quote
That's the one, Ginch. It's seriously bright for the physical size. I haven't had any issues with it in a solid 18 months or so of pretty much daily riding with it.

I couldn't work out a way to use the funky double headlight bezel screws and still mount it securely. I'd like to figure that out at some point (I have ideas, just haven't gotten to it), so I use the bottom bolt with a long M3 in it to hold the light at its aim point and some double-stick foam elsewhere to keep it all together.

I'll shoot some pictures of the hi/low tonight when I'm out and about if I don't have any already.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
That's the one, Ginch. It's seriously bright for the physical size. I haven't had any issues with it in a solid 18 months or so of pretty much daily riding with it.

I couldn't work out a way to use the funky double headlight bezel screws and still mount it securely. I'd like to figure that out at some point (I have ideas, just haven't gotten to it), so I use the bottom bolt with a long M3 in it to hold the light at its aim point and some double-stick foam elsewhere to keep it all together.

I'll shoot some pictures of the hi/low tonight when I'm out and about if I don't have any already.
That would be great, cheers!
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Pheas' - optical illusion. See pic below - I wiped the dark oil off. Not bodge poke through. CM bodge addition - reinforced the motor mount.
Good good... I figured it must be. You gotta admit - the oil in the photo makes it look terrible!

You could easily get some rattle cans to hide that all...

But maybe you like it a bit rat.

Rats rule.
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
fit to chrome ring.
Where'd the chrome ring come from?

Plz giz some pics of the headset in the daylight. =)

Looks like those lights that cause the circles around the pupils for models. Wonder if it would...

Looks good and nice focus from what I can tell. Jealous.

I've got a 35w halogen in a Siem. Beam is way too high... need to troubleshoot that. It also drains the battery real fast if the bikes not running.
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Quote:
CM2.0
Haha. How many lumens is that one? Mine seems a nice upgrade - but haven't ridden at night yet. Will report back.

Pheas' - you could make such a nice set of brackets for it and make it completely amiable. I will hack in something that gets the job done.
The scooter shops sell the "headlight rim" is you wanna search options. Here is an example: https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/headlamp+rim+siem+for+vespa+_81598200
I just unbent the tabs of my existing one and took the original light out.
Yeah - I need to do my paint and bring back her bodge glory. Overdo.

Aliexpress sells the light - pair for $25.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/33001713551.html?spm=a2g0s.8937460.0.0.5d352e0eNpvMrM
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@lynnb avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Wholey crap, the brightness in your garage, neighbours are going to think your a mad scientist. Laughing emoticon
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
Lynnb wrote:
... neighbours are going to think realise your a mad scientist. Laughing emoticon
There Lynnb. Fixed that for you.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I guess it doesn't have high and low beam then?
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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UTC quote
Hey Ginch, here's my JW Speaker 4.5" headlight shot using Night Vision on my Pixel phone.
Lo-Beams
Lo-Beams
Hi-Beams
Hi-Beams
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
Hey Ginch, here's my JW Speaker 4.5" headlight shot using Night Vision on my Pixel phone.
Nice! Thanks for that CM.
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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UTC quote
Just came back from a 65 mile ride up the coast.
Hadn't really intended to go that far - last minute decision.
Came back in the dark.
Ran the scooter hard with a 20 mile Hwy section with significant inlines and 50MPH+ mountain roads - so 10 minute long pulls just sitting on the throttle with head winds and inclines.

Ran the AFM the entire way out to and up the coast - using the 130 jet.
With the 130MJ, the scooter runs like a sewing machine.
As close to the Smart Carb as I've ever gotten with an SI.
The AFM is 12.7 - right on Voodoo's chart's theoretical max power.
But, while it is oh so smooth, it is a bit less powerful than the 127 jet which reads closer to ~14.7

So I find that to be at 12.7AFR - I have to give a bit of power up - and I get back great smoothness and robust set up.

My takeaway: 12.7 AMF as I am measuring it is a great place to be. Robust and smooth - but its not the most powerful area. That occurs closer to 14.7 or Lamda=1 on the chart.

BTW - Light is a big improvement - but not as nice as CM0's
No high beam - running light only - or main beam.
Still - I do like the way it looks.
🙂
Red is 130 - blue is 127. 127 has a bit more peak punch - but 130 is smooth and powerful
Red is 130 - blue is 127. 127 has a bit more peak punch - but 130 is smooth and powerful
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@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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UTC quote
Your mission Charlieman22 - should you decide to accept it - is to create, with your own hands and such tools as you may need, a Jet. 128.5 to be precise.





Sounding great.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
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UTC quote
Came a long way from 112. If splutter starts at 135, then you've proved two jets down is usually correct. However, if your AFR meter is a bit out, which it probably is, then Ginch's 128.5 is a good idea. Dyno suggests rich at the top.

2 strokes do make more power running slightly lean, this we know, so max power is the lean jet. A little richer would be the correct one. All points to more than 127 and less than 130.
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Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
Your mission Charlieman22 - should you decide to accept it - is to create, with your own hands and such tools as you may need, a Jet. 128.5 to be precise.





Sounding great.
I like it, let's see a 128.5 main jet, well settle for a 128 if that's the best you can do. 😁

Use one of those small jets so you dont ruin your 127.

Oh, where are you running your meter? Need to put mine in.
⚠️ Last edited by Christopher_55934 on UTC; edited 1 time
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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UTC quote
CM2, don't forget that the AFM is like the dyno on these bikes--only accurate to within like 5-10%, so they're much better thought of as Change Detectors than Exact Measurers.

It's like they say in flying, "You gotta know when to fly by the instruments and when to fly your senses."
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UTC quote
So stoked , the mad scientist is going to make a 128.5 for results.
CM you're nearing the summit.
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Nedminder
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I think y'all are all on the right track.
Mid throttle is phenomenal. Super smooth and powerful. Hwy cruising speed.
WOT is just a little wet.

In truth - my 127 is probably a 127.5.
Its a transvestjet that started life identifying itself as a 103 - but its much happier now - and I'm happy for them.

My atomizer has had some work done as well.
Hey - this is LA. Even 50yr old main jets have fabulous figures.
See pic below.
That started life as a BE3.
I covered 3 of the 4 holes in the middle - in an attempt to target mid throttle - which is a wow now.
That's important - because when I cruise at 55-60 for long periods of time - I use a lot of mid throttle.
It's reading 12.7 (wish) on the AFM.
It keeps the motor cool.
But it would be awesome if I could use WOT just above that to lean it a hair and scream when I need to with max power.

So... Instead of making a change of the main jet - which will affect everything - I am going to see if I can use the atomizer to target the last 25% of the throttle.

Pic shows holes I will slightly enlarge - to create a bit more air feed. The idea is - these holes closest to the MJ play mostly at WOT (or so the internet says). By opening them a bit - Im hopeful to keep what I have in the middle - but lean the top just a touch.

That's the plan anyway.
Today its going to be 110° here - so in no rush to get out on the scoot.
🙂
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2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
I think y'all are all on the right track.
Mid throttle is phenomenal. Super smooth and powerful. Hwy cruising speed.
WOT is just a little wet.

In truth - my 127 is probably a 127.5.
Its a transvestjet that started life identifying itself as a 103 - but its much happier now - and I'm happy for them.

My atomizer has had some work done as well.
Hey - this is LA. Even 50yr old main jets have fabulous figures.
See pic below.
That started life as a BE3.
I covered 3 of the 4 holes in the middle - in an attempt to target mid throttle - which is a wow now.
That's important - because when I cruise at 55-60 for long periods of time - I use a lot of mid throttle.
It's reading 12.7 (wish) on the AFM.
It keeps the motor cool.
But it would be awesome if I could use WOT just above that to lean it a hair and scream when I need to with max power.

So... Instead of making a change of the main jet - which will affect everything - I am going to see if I can use the atomizer to target the last 25% of the throttle.

Pic shows holes I will slightly enlarge - to create a bit more air feed. The idea is - these holes closest to the MJ play mostly at WOT (or so the internet says). By opening them a bit - Im hopeful to keep what I have in the middle - but lean the top just a touch.

That's the plan anyway.
Today its going to be 110° here - so in no rush to get out on the scoot.
🙂
Where did you end up running the AFR meter, far part of pipe or next to the cylinder?
⚠️ Last edited by Christopher_55934 on UTC; edited 1 time
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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@ginch avatar
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Its a transvestjet that started life identifying itself as a 103 - but its much happier now - and I'm happy for them.
ROFL emoticon ROFL emoticon
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Ran the AFM near the exhaust port - "within 6 inches of the piston skirt" - as per Koso's instructions.
All the companies say the Bosch 02 sensor is the best - but Koso seams to have the best handle on use with 2 stroke.
PIA to keep taking it out and moving it around - so not sure that test is gonna make the cut.

Subtle adjustment to the atomizer as noted above.
Will see if the AFM can pick it up - and where.
Will also do a speed run and dyno it if I see a change.

Drilled the top row of holes from .9mm to 1.0mm -or roughly 10% increase as first step.
Will continue to move it up in .1mm increments until it registers on the AFM/ speed runs.
Any red flags y'all wanna raise?
Jack at pub reading atomizer approach.
Jack at pub reading atomizer approach.
The holes in this row increased .1mm in size
The holes in this row increased .1mm in size
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Ran the AFM near the exhaust port - "within 6 inches of the piston skirt" - as per Koso's instructions.
All the companies say the Bosch 02 sensor is the best - but Koso seams to have the best handle on use with 2 stroke.
PIA to keep taking it out and moving it around - so not sure that test is gonna make the cut.

Subtle adjustment to the atomizer as noted above.
Will see if the AFM can pick it up - and where.
Will also do a speed run and dyno it if I see a change.

Drilled the top row of holes from .9mm to 1.0mm -or roughly 10% increase as first step.
Will continue to move it up in .1mm increments until it registers on the AFM/ speed runs.
Any red flags y'all wanna raise?
It's a cheap part, nothing you can't easily replace, as long as you keep a good eye on it you shouldn't hurt anything. Could be a good learning experience about fine tuning an atomizer.

I bought a handful of pilot jets in the 42/160 version. Also bought a micro drill bit set. I put in the 42/160 verified small and lean. Pulled it drilled to whatever size up bit I had. I mean there are some odd size bits like a .44 and tried again. Once I got it dialed in I moved on. Got tired of trying to locate order and wait for just the right size.

Estimate is a bit off for increase in size, math is closer to 19%. I'm curious how much of a difference it makes.

Radius of 0.45 mm = area of 0.63617 mm
A=πr2=π·0.452≈0.63617

Radius of 0.50 mm = area of 0.7854 mm
A=πr2=π·0.52≈0.7854

0.63617/0.7854 = 0.81
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Since resistance to flow is inversely proportional to radius to the power of four... you could argue that it's gonna be even more than that.

10% increase diameter... 20% increase area, could be a big increase in flow.

Proof is in the pudding.
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
Clearly I am better at measuring than calculating...
Experimented with the upper row of holes.
Stock they are about 0.90mm.
I took them up in .1mm increments testing at:
1.0
1.1
1.2

I reamed all 4 holes to the larger size and ran the GSF.
Was able to identify a change in AFM reading on the 1.1 and 1.2
Hard to tell at all on the 1.0.
1.2 moved my AFM #s from 12.7 (ish) to 13.2(ish).
I say "ish" cause it bounces around a bit on speed runs.
Would have to get out on the hwy in 4th to be certain.
But it's moved.
Hard to say if it changed mid throttle or I managed to maintain.
It's 110° out - so gonna have to wait to find out.

As for dyno - see results below.
Appears as I am leaning it - I am gaining peak power - but - I have a bit of fall off at WOT in the mid RPM's.
Not sure that will be an improvement for driving experience.
Will see.
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Addicted
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UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Clearly I am better at measuring than calculating...
Experimented with the upper row of holes.
Stock they are about 0.90mm.
I took them up in .1mm increments testing at:
1.0
1.1
1.2

I reamed all 4 holes to the larger size and ran the GSF.
Was able to identify a change in AFM reading on the 1.1 and 1.2
Hard to tell at all on the 1.0.
1.2 moved my AFM #s from 12.7 (ish) to 13.2(ish).
I say "ish" cause it bounces around a bit on speed runs.
Would have to get out on the hwy in 4th to be certain.
But it's moved.
Hard to say if it changed mid throttle or I managed to maintain.
It's 110° out - so gonna have to wait to find out.

As for dyno - see results below.
Appears as I am leaning it - I am gaining peak power - but - I have a bit of fall off at WOT in the mid RPM's.
Not sure that will be an improvement for driving experience.
Will see.
Do you know that some ppl just crash on the couch in the evening and order Dominos and watch reruns of Johnny Carson?......

Just sayin......

and also, I'm a little befuddled as to what you're doing.

But, from what I gather, I'd stick with the 12.7MJ, cause imho robust and smooth beats most powerful and choppy all to pieces.

PS: can you please tell me what AMF means? I looked it up, but I don't think the urban dictionary definition applies to scooters.
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Jet Eye Master
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UTC quote
Was actually in the pub reading this. Not even sure if there is any scientific benefit. Seems without point.
If you consider the AFR meter is +/- 1.0, the only thing left is how it feels. Get WOT correct with the main jet and the rest with pilot and atomiser. This might find a new way to get to the same point you knew already.
What main jet starts to flood out with un-molested BE5?
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
UTC

Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
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Location: california
 
Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
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Location: california
UTC quote
Quote:
PS: can you please tell me what AMF means? I looked it up, but I don't think the urban dictionary definition applies to scooters.
Chuckled - which also is likely best defined by Websters rather than Urban.
And agreed - the smooth awesome feel of the 130MJ which trades just a touch of max power up in the 8K RPM range is definitely the place to be.
Really pleased with the jetting - but tinkering until my parts for the Smart Carb arrive.

AFM = air fuel meter.
Quote:
Was actually in the pub reading this. Not even sure if there is any scientific benefit. Seems without point.
Madness to my method:
- MJ change will adjust my fuel curve in linear fashion.
- I can be leaner or richer.
- But I want to put a kink in the curve - just at the end - to get lean in last 1/8th throttle. Think reverse power jet.
- Efforts with top row of atomizer were to see if I could do just that - so that 3/4 throttle would be smooth & safe for fast cruising, while that last bit of throttle would make it scorch. Since the scoot will cruise at 65 on the hwy at 3/4 throttle or less - I won't use max throttle for more than short bursts.
Little nitro last 1/8th throttle.

Not sure my idea worked...
But when it cools off outside - I'll test fully to see.
AFM may be +/- 1, but it is picking up the changes in a relative fashion.
Kinda need long stretch of 4th gear hwy to get best readings - and its way too hot for that.

My favorite to ride so far was the 130MJ with homemade BE5.
That was the smoothest tho not quite the most powerful at WOT.
I can try that again with a 129 if current experiments don't pan out.

Question - if I put a honking big bell mouth on my Smart Carb - will it also lean it out like a bell mouth on an SI does?
Hmmm.  I agree.  That does look a LITTLE like my wife's cutting board. 🙂
Hmmm. I agree. That does look a LITTLE like my wife's cutting board. 🙂
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9513
Location: Nashville

143 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9513
Location: Nashville

143 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
chandlerman wrote:
CM2.0 -- On my Sprint, I actually sprang for a nice JL Speaker headlight. The bummer was that the 4.75" light was too deep to mount without interfering with the key switch, so I'm running a 4.5".
This one? Did you have to cut anything?

https://headlightrevolution.com/jw-speaker-model-8415-evolution-par36-4-5-round-led-headlight-12-24v-sae-ece-led-high-low-beam-light-with-xenoy-housing-adjustable-mount/
No cutting, but the mounting is a little hack-y.

I couldn't use the original headlight mounting nuts on the sides, Instead, I have M6 5 or M6 bolts that run through and then are held in place with nuts against both the headset and light housing.

It also occurred to me this morning that I could probably use headlight nuts and then just run a long M3 bolt all the way through. I vaguely recall losing one of the original headlight nuts and then never returning to that problem once I'd worked out my interim solution.

I'll add testing that out to my list, but not until the next time I need to invade my headset for electrical work.
Going nuts in the headset
Going nuts in the headset
@lynnb avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
 
Ossessionato
@lynnb avatar
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
UTC quote
CM I try and try and try reading and focusing and following along and my head just hurts, I envy your concentration.
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Posts: 4073
Location: california
 
Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
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UTC quote
Work had me travel up north for a few days.
Figured I would bring the scoot - you know - just in case.
Turned out to be a good call.
Scoot is running great - which is good - cause I took it on a pretty hairy ride across the Golden Gate Bridge in a swirl of heavy fog.

Funny moment - not caught on camera unfortunately.
Kinda breezy on the bridge - so I was hunkered dow with head near headset.
Was doing a pretty nice clip through the fog - and found myself running next to an official looking pick up truck - marked Golden Gate Patrol.

I turned my head to look and the driver was looking back at me.
There we were - driving through this thick fog - staring at each other - a moment in time - so I blipped the throttle and just pulled away (also cause I didnt want to be right next to a vehicle).

Haven't decided if it was spectacular or spectacularly stupid - but it was an adrenaline rush to say the least. Wound down the hill to Sausalito and sat outdoors for an hour or two for lunch and an unwind. Pretty remarkable day.
Rental truck had short bed - but managed got shoe horn the scoot in.
Rental truck had short bed - but managed got shoe horn the scoot in.
Was like driving to Mars on the way due to the fires
Was like driving to Mars on the way due to the fires
That little structure poking through the fog is the top of the Golden Gate Bridge - after crossing.
That little structure poking through the fog is the top of the Golden Gate Bridge - after crossing.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4480
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4480
Location: London UK
UTC quote
Another nice trip. Was foggy a few days when I was there too. Much safer with the sidecar keeping up with traffic.
Must be nearly ready for either, raising the BGM cylinder or fitting the Malossi.
@ginch avatar
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8621
Location: Victoria, Australia
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8621
Location: Victoria, Australia
UTC quote
So it's cooled down there now?
@chandlerman avatar
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Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9513
Location: Nashville

143 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9513
Location: Nashville

143 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
Ginch wrote:
So it's cooled down there now?
The parts that aren't on fire, maybe.
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
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UTC quote
San Fran - and the coast itself - were quite cool.
Also kinda empty which was weird.

Jack - almost forgot to mention - threw in some larger jets to find the splutter point. Was higher than I expected: 145 before really spluttery.
Anything over 130 leaves fuel dripping from exhaust stub to box pipe connection.

Await Smart Carb for comparison to current cylinder set up.
Then time for the Malossi.
What are we going to do with the exhaust port shape wise?
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Are we going here?
Are we going here?
@kimono32 avatar
UTC

Addicted
'66 Super 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 991
Location: MN
 
Addicted
@kimono32 avatar
'66 Super 150
Joined: UTC
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Location: MN
UTC quote
I am crazyjelly that you get to ride your scoot over the Golden Gate!

It's on my bucket list.

Enjoyed the dead-stare-moment-until-cm-vanishes-into-the-smog part of your story.
UTC

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4480
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4480
Location: London UK
UTC quote
145 would be full splutter. The splutter point I expect would have been 138 at the most. Which would put the ideal jet at 132. So all close enough. The black spooge is down to the atomiser and pilot jet. Which change as the main is upped.

This kind of cylinder with the maxed out bridge port is a good point of reference. Won't all work for yours but some of the ideas are transferable. When the time comes we can do the detail. It does show that even a bolt on like the Malossi kit is not really that aggressive out of the box.
@lynnb avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
 
Ossessionato
@lynnb avatar
1963 VBB2T
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2542
UTC quote
Jack221 wrote:
145 would be full splutter. The splutter point I expect would have been 138 at the most. Which would put the ideal jet at 132. So all close enough. The black spooge is down to the atomiser and pilot jet. Which change as the main is upped.

This kind of cylinder with the maxed out bridge port is a good point of reference. Won't all work for yours but some of the ideas are transferable. When the time comes we can do the detail. It does show that even a bolt on like the Malossi kit is not really that aggressive out of the box.
Jack when you say splutter, are you describing hitting the throttle and basicly getting no additional rpm's unless you let off a bit?
OP
@charlieman22 avatar
UTC

Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4073
Location: california
 
Nedminder
@charlieman22 avatar
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4073
Location: california
UTC quote
Quote:
This kind of cylinder with the maxed out bridge port is a good point of reference. Won't all work for yours but some of the ideas are transferable. When the time comes we can do the detail.
Well - there is a worldwide pandemic occurring, the west coast of the United States is on fire, we have a contested election - that hasn't even occurred yet - and none of us can agree on any facts.

And yet - within our group of misfits - we know that 1mm of exhaust port lift = about 1HP of output and raises the power band. How I love this forum.

In that spirit - and because I like causing Jack's angina to flare - I give you this:
piston ramping.
It is popular in piston ported motor bicycling.
If you don't know what that is - its that really loud bicycle with a two stroke strapped to it - pouring soot at the tail pipe - that passed you at lunch the other day.
Think less refined vespa meets steam punk.

Rather than try and grind the roof of the transfers to lift them - these guys grind the top of the piston to lower it.
The net effect is to lift port timing- tho I imagine it doesn't do wonders for your squish band.
But then - they are not all about refinement.
They do it on the exhaust ports and transfers.
The interesting part to me was - this could allow some adjustment of transfer height to lower Blow Down timing - without having to try and grind transfer port roofs - something none of us really do.
It is also lower risk - a new piston is $80 - not $450 like a cylinder.

I post it in the spirit of the MHR cylinder project - and the previously noted Jack's angina.
My challenge on the MHR: If we were to create two paths - one to optimize grunt, and one to optimize peak HP - what would be the different exhaust port shapes we would go after - and what other tuning would we combine?
This is a fairly common practice for motor bicycles - they adjust both transfer and exhaust port timing by altering the piston top
This is a fairly common practice for motor bicycles - they adjust both transfer and exhaust port timing by altering the piston top
In situ - example of exhaust port "lifting" by lowering of the piston.
In situ - example of exhaust port "lifting" by lowering of the piston.
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