OTC -thanks.
I watched a 30 min vid on Engmod.
Very nice tool.
Can see how having this can take some significant guess work out of tuning.
Update on build below.
Relates to above - and includes a question.
First, the update.
Long time readers of this thread (
should question the direction of their life) may recall that Whodat convinced me on page 3 that I should use an EFL transmission.
Ginch said it seemed like it was possible - and the next thing I knew - I was in Germany buying what I thought was the magic needed part: a conversion shaft for the xmas tree.
When I did my build - it turned out that to fit the P200 based xmas tree in - I had to shim it about 1mm to keep the fatter primary gear from striking the case.
That set off a chain reaction of shimming.
Drive shaft - 1mm, kick start, 1mm, basically - every shaft had to shift 1mm.
That is something I wanted to avoid with this build.
So I rebuilt the Cush drive using two flat bottom plates.
Pics below.
OTC - last pic is for you.
Question: can Eng mod model any benefits or gains from flipping the carb as I show?
Makes intake path straight shot (you can see the con piston when you open the throttle...)
rebuilt the Cush drive - with some fancy yellow double springs - but forgot to shoot that picture...
Rebuilt the drive using the old back cover on the front - giving me two flat covers. Now there is sufficient clearance for the gears - so no shims needed on the rest of the build
Bit of 638. It's a "retained bearing" now, Jack. 🙂
Pulled the crank in and double checked alignment before the 638 set.
Would there be any benefit to flipping the carb backwards so that it was a straight shot into the cylinder?
You can see right up her (piston) skirt with the carb like this. I could do a bit more porting inside the cases to optimize a straight shot. Seems like rotary would really benefit based on Jack's prior comments vis-a-vis reed vs rotary