Is there anywhere one can find chassis plans to fit a Vespa px.
Or even where you can get a kit.
I have a mate who can make me a chassis I am even willing to travel anywhere in the U.K. to measure and photograph one for him to make.
Thankyou.
OP
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Vespa GTS 250 , Baotian 70cc rat scooter, Yamaha V50M 1979
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Is there anywhere one can find chassis plans to fit a Vespa px.
Or even where you can get a kit. I have a mate who can make me a chassis I am even willing to travel anywhere in the U.K. to measure and photograph one for him to make. Thankyou. |
Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
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Sidecar plans
Here's a blog on how to set up a sidecar: http://sidecarjons.blogspot.com/2015/07/setting-up-sidecar-or-how-to-avoid.html. Most of it is about motorcycles but the logic, terms and measurements applies to scooters. Lean, tow, and lead are very important to your project.
The logic going forward is based on the P200e and California Sidecar setup with some LML scooter procedures for extra stability if you want. First: Design: The California Partner sidecar was setup for a P series and some smallframes because it was very light. Attached are instructions with pictures on how to setup. You can use the mounting points under the tunnel and use the holes for the center stand to connect a subframe. You can see in the instructions at the bottom on how this is done. Second: Subframe: You can use the instructions in the blog and the pictures of the California Parnter Sidecar to design a subframe or you can buy proven parts to build a subframe. These guys sell a subframe for scooters that uses a version of the California Partner sidecar bucket. http://kelticsidecars.com/replacement-parts/. I've asked them to make one for an old vespa but they don't have an old Vespa to research and Develop. They're also not sure if they would sell. This frame plate can be used with a Vespa P if a mounting point is fabricated like in the California Sidecar Pics. It has metal tubes underneath for stability. A metal plate to connect under the scooter and a tube to connect to this frame would need to be fabricated. Similar to item 11 in the pictures at the bottom. This jackleg can be used for mounting a wheel to the sidecar like the one used on the California Partner Sidecar. Similar to item 12 in the pictures at the bottom. . Use the instructions here at the bottom to set tow and lean. Extra Mounting point. Good but maybe not needed? You can used a Volkswagen steering damper to secure the subframe to the scooter at the front shock. Extra Extra Mounting point. You can try to buy or fabricate a mounting connection under the seat like the one in this video. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dx0ifF3T5ro&t=5s BTW, This bucket is the same design as the California Partner Sidecar. They were able to copy the mold but could not copy the lip for the windshield or duplicate buttons for a cover. Good luck! California side mounting instructions below: California side mounting instructions
California side mounting instructions
California side mounting instructions Item 11 is the subframe. Item 12 is the jack leg and Keltic Sidcars also sells item 13-tire fender.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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85 Vespa PX150E with sidecar, 80 P200 with sidecar, 96 Goldwing with Hannigan Sidecar, LR87aj5, LR91aj3
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someone say Partner Sidecar? P200 with partner waiting for spring.
Bottom picture is before completed... new seat and replaced stock sidecar wheel and tire with Vespa rim and adapter plate. |
OP
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Vespa GTS 250 , Baotian 70cc rat scooter, Yamaha V50M 1979
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Nedminder
62 VBB1T Round Tail W/ leaner sidecar
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Posts: 4129 Location: california |
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Hi Grahamimi - Rowdy posted some great info. Here are a couple of things from my POV - some overlap with the good run down Rowdy shared.
Basics: - Sidecars are renown for pulling when you accelerate/pushing when you slow. - Car acts as a pendulum. This is exacerbated if the frame flexes - or the connection between the frame and bike has any give. To counter the above, there are four basic things (beyond weight) that are done to set them up. 1. Being able to adjust toe-in is a good thing. Rowdy provided good info - all the gurus out on the web have instructions on this. 2. The gurus mostly - not all - also call for tilting of the bike outwardly 3. Dampening - also shown by Rowdy - this combats tiny oscillations of that push pull noted above - lots to find out there on how people feel this improved the ride. 4. Connection - how you transfer the load between the side car and bike is critical - The Vespa is a unibody frame - uses geometry of parts to create strength/stiffness and spread loads. Works great - but is poor at handling point loading. Adding points of connection is advised (best guys do this even on motorcycle frames which are locally more able to cary load). - Vespas would benefit from spreading the load of connection so you don't get localized flexing of the frame - or wallering out of the bolt holes. Kickstand bolts are almost always used - but some also tie in to the engine mount bolt - which in my view is a good idea - see pic below. - You can buy a side car turn key from these guys http://www.scooter99.com - frame and car. they have a couple of styles - and a simple but pretty effective frame design. Worth a thought. Also - From Cozy. - If you buy, ask them to add tab for dampener to front fork - it makes a difference in my opinion - can really reduce shake. - Keep in mind - the car and frame are about 175-200lbs - close to the weight of the bike. not easy to alter connection by 1 degree increments if you have to loosen and reconnect each time. Cozy is a bit more adjustable - though I like Scooter 99's classic styling better. - The picture of the black frame is from a German company. Its not for a Vespa and is only tack welded for this shot - but look at the wheel attachment. It uses a shock - but also - you can adjust the toe-in right at the wheel. This is a really nice feature to have - and if you are going to build from custom - there are some good ideas here (simple, adjustable). I would include this for sure. You can add a tie rod to make it super subtle and stable to adjust - and quick. Toe in is key - too much and you wear your tires off. Too little and the car feels like its pulling away from you all the time under acceleration. Hope this helps. Best, CM German frame - with adjustable toe-in. note - not design was not for Vespa - and this is good example of point loading attachment inappropriate for scooter
second view. Easier to see the adjustable toe in feature. Some use a tie rod to control adjustment - recomend.
frame ties in to motor mount bolt
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