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Hello

OK this is for my Dragster 180 but the setup is very similar to my GT200.

I have lateral movement on my rear wheel. It's not massive but it's been bugging me for a while. So today I stripped down the CVT and gear/drive box. I need to replace the bearing where the drive shaft connects to the rear wheel. Stripping the drive stuff down was a breeze but getting the bearing out has eluded me so far. The bearing sits inside a rubber grommet/bush.
While I'm in there I will probably change the other bearings as well. These look well jammed in and I'll cross that bridge when I come to it

I've probably explained that pretty crap so here is a picture hoping it will help explain better. Hoping you can help me get this mutha out ... TIA Mick

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
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Hi Mate, Looks pretty straight forward.

Pry out the rubber seal with a pick, then lightly heat around the bearing with a heat torch. If you dont have a bearing punch use a socket sized slightly within the OD of the bearing (So you don't chuff your case)
Piaggio has all sorts of pullers and drifts though you can make your own or buy a set from Halfords.

Don't forget to freeze the new bearings before you put them in

EASY as 1 2 3 eh!

Cheers
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As long as we are on the subject:

How long should a wheel bearing last? What signs should we be looking/listening for if the bearing starts to go? (Other than wiggling the wheel.)

Co-incidentally, I was just thinking about this very thing yesterday as I found myself entering a 65MPH highway on my ET4 with a full load of overnight camping gear. It was a shortcut, it was worth trying, I didn't know any other way, and luckily for me it was only several miles long, all downhill. Razz emoticon
(So I could keep up with traffic)

As I topped 70 MPH (Faster than my scoot has gone before. Thank you, gravity.) my mind starting thinking about wheel bearings.

And when I arrived I found this post.
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Thanks mate. So the rubber stuff I can see inside will be oil seals that I can dig/pick out and replace with new ones?

I've started with the rubber seal on the outside and it's picking away quite easy even though its kinda welded to the metal!

Mick
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mickfitz wrote:
Thanks mate. So the rubber stuff I can see inside will be oil seals that I can dig/pick out and replace with new ones?

I've started with the rubber seal on the outside and it's picking away quite easy even though its kinda welded to the metal!

Mick
Yes mate heat transfer will cause your rubber to stick!

When you pry out your oil seals THROW THEM AWAY! never even think about reusing them

I assume you don't have the new parts yet? If not try alan at Beedspeed.

Cheers
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[quote="Menhir"]As long as we are on the subject:

How long should a wheel bearing last? What signs should we be looking/listening for if the bearing starts to go? (Other than wiggling the wheel.)





I think the wheel bearings should last 1K to Whenever??. Depends on usage,road conditions, history, Boy racer type riding etc.

Good bearings IMO are made in Japan and Germany. (Full Stop)

Minimal end play aside, when doing brake work etc it's always good to check your seals a listen for scoring/rubbing noises. You'll know when you hear it.

Cheers
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Thanks for the advise ... especially Allan at Beedspeed ... you pre-empted my next question

When I heat the case up. Just how hot am I getting it? The manual says 80 degrees but there's no way I can measure that. Are we talking the kinda hot the bubbles spit/water?

Once heated and I come to knocking it out. Will it be easy or will I need to heat it a few times?

When replacing. I take it I'll have to re-heat it as well as freeze the bearing?

Many thanks ... Mick
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Mick, Just heat around the bearing at first. What heat degree is based on application, So, if the manual says 80 then use your best judgement 8)

Freezing your NEW bearing, will help when you go to install it.

Again, Once the old bearing is out, toss it mate. Never try to reuse a seal or a bearing. (Unless it's it rebuildable, Which this is not!)

The best tool to use other than a factory part would be a drift. If you don't have one just use a socket like i mentioned before.

Also, after the bearing is out let the case cool down. Never throw water on it

Hope this helps you out mate!

Cheers
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It's out

Tob be honest it was a right bastard and I endend up getting the dremel in there ... but that's it now.

Thanks for the advice.

Now I need to suss how to get the needle/roller bearings out of the rest of the drive/gear box.

I spose I'll need a special tool for those? Any ideas where I can buy?

Many thanks ... Mick
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[quote="mickfitz"]It's out

Tob be honest it was a right bastard and I endend up getting the dremel in there ... but that's it now.



Alright Mick, Post a few pics mate. Do you have the Manual?

I will help you through it pal, i really don't want to call the UK Crying or Very sad emoticon But this is "Normally" an easy job??.... So, Move away from that Dremel tool and i will get back to you in a wee bit.


Mick, Though we are taking Dragster here check out this PDF https://modernvespa.com/files/workshop/GT200Workshop.pdf for the GT200 more for visual ref on tooling. Read from page 134 on

Cheers
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