Modern Vespa

It has tabs that squeeze through then make a snug fit. This is the primary reason I messed up the paint. Make the hole to fit, and it isn't big enough. Then you have to guess trim it to get the tabs to fit. That is when I skipped the Dremel, and caused the paint damage.

Current plan is to use a brush to touch it up. If that is just too ugly, I will repaint as a last resort.

...Or you can buy this thing, cut a hole in it to view the gauge and call it a day.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Vespa-T5-Px-Front-Leg-Shield-Tool-Box-Top-Tray/313304272467?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20160908105057%26meid%3Ddb511dd1d22645eda3c0f67eec00cfac%26pid%3D100675%26rk%3D7%26rkt%3D15%26mehot%3Dnone%26sd%3D353197767164%26itm%3D313304272467%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D2380057&_trksid=p2380057.c100675.m4236&_trkparms=pageci%3Ac48c7e8f-676d-11eb-add7-cabb723e3d24%7Cparentrq%3A70879a881770ad3550f02604fff0d642%7Ciid%3A1

You're doing some Great Work!

I like that. Not going to use it like you suggest, because I already mounted the gauge, but it is a great way to securely mount my fuse box. Plus I wanted a tray in there.

nice paint work my vote is for the block font same as the original on the leggy.

Got some of the bike wiring done, and mounted some of the electric conversion components. This is a lot of wiring when you are 100% rewiring the whole bike!.








Wiring station:


Fuse box and LED flasher wired in. Plus a several harnesses done, and one main one to go:

Received my 4 AWG wire and connectors, so I could start wiring in the controller and associate parts.



Making the high power cables:







Installed on the controller, contactor and shunt:





Then wrapped and fed the bike wires through the frame, and connected the disconnect.










Next I need to start making all the connections. This is the fun part where I get to power up and test the circuits.

Doesn't look like much, but represents almost 4 hours of work. Don't worry, the bundles will all get braided covers, not just tape.

The engine electrics are done. Took a lot of time, but I am happy with the results. I also finished and covered the main harnesses towards the front, and battery area. Just need to do the tail light harness, and rear signals.






Obviously I have the motor hooked up for mocking purposes only. Until I mount the forks, front wheel and centerstand I can't install the motor.

Not much done. A fresh coat of paint on the "forks", and placement of the fuse block panel. Plus a shot of the rear wiring upright. Once the fork is installed I can install the headset and wire it up.

Looks great Jim. Not to be nit picky, and to each their own, but I think a black suspension might give it a more modern look.

You may be right. It will all need to come apart after I get it going anyhow. I am going to replace everything, and likely update it to a disc in front.

Some have asked for these.



Swingarm dimensions:









Updated Wiring diagrams.

Jim, I was wondering when you register this scoot what will you say it is? Electric? What Power? Would it be freeway legal? Does an electric scooter require a motorcycle endorsement to ride?

Loved every post of this project.

It is already registered as a motorcycle. Fortunately it is considered an antique, so no need to have it inspected. IF it were not, I would register it as an electric scooter, which does not require licensing in VA. While it may technically be classified as a 50cc or more (motorcycle), it would never get the blink of an eye since it is electric.

Lots to come, maybe tonight, maybe tomorrow. Valentine's Day and all that.

looking forward to the next update.
Much appreciate the updated wiring diagram - and pics of layout.
Like the crystalizing of updated version of Resistors build - tho quite similar in basic lay out - seems you will get a bit more top speed.
Good road map - interested to see results.

So - what's next?
How long 'til the video showing cruising speeds?

I'm confident Resistor's is likely better done. But, I hope to have a test ride by next weekend.

First, installed the front tire, all new:



Then installed the fender, removing and reinstalling the fork.



Installed the rear hub and brake lines:



Cleaned up all the wiring, ready to test all the connections:




Then installed all the lights and test fit the bodywork:









I'm happy to say the lighting system works perfectly, and the body fits nicely!

Looks clean!

Those look like filament bulbs? I'm surprised you're not using LED to minimize energy use?

Its an led look at January 31 posts.

I think you mean the headlight? Agreed on that.

I was referring to the tail / brake (/turning?) lights in today's photos.

I will be replacing them with LED, once I figure out what to buy. It is surprisingly hard to get a part number on them.

Completed the display wiring and installed the glovebox. Yes, a glovebox. Those swanky Italians!








Anyone see my shame?


Oh, and for those dying to see me paint black, the centerstand!

It's what stickers were invented for....

Too bad about the scratch. Fortunately it's in the exact place where the "JVB Productions" decal goes.

You're pretty close to the finish line. Trim and floor rails?

youtubehd-ysfgKbU_2zM

Question about the mounting of the rear disc brake:

Wouldn't the stopping power be increased if the brake caliper was on top of the swing arm rather than under it? So that the rotational force was transferred into the frame rather than relying on 2 screws to hold that force?

Or am I overthinking that one?

I have some paint left, but that may be the real fix in the end.

The rotational force will be on those two bolts no matter where it is mounted. As for better stopping power, I do not think it matters, though I could be wrong. Being on top would be ideal for bleeding purposes, but I could not find a way to do it without building a new mount, and clearance with the frame would be an issue under compression. I plan to bleed the caliper off the bike and upright.

Thanks,

Nothing glamorous, just installed the centerstand and traced every wire, checked them all to make sure they didn't ground to the body, or mix 12V and 72V in any way, then buttoned it up in the back.

Work trip, followed by a trip to Daytona. Back at it this weekend.

What I accomplished after 4 hours of work on the Vespa.

Just having a browse through the pics and updates. Looks great. How far out are we from going for ride??

I'm having trouble setting up the controller. It seems it does not like Windows 10, so I am ordering a BT adapter for my phone. Hopefully once I get it there will be only hours to get it ready.

what does it like?

Windows 7? Linux?

Easiest way to solve this is the set up a virtual machine using virtualbox (free). I have to do this for a logic universal tv remote cause the damn software is no longer developed!

Win 7 or XP. I need to look into this. The seller says I need a bluetooth dongle. Why they didn't include that I do not know.

Yes its not hard to set up a VM, but you need a copy of Win7 or WinXP. And I guess the USB dongle they require.

Its basically creating a file on your hard drive that acts as a "hard drive" which you install Win7/XP onto as if it was a physical computer. Virtualbox allows you to start/run the virtual computer in a window as if it were a real computer. The virtual machine shares resources with your actual machine so it does not run fast, and would make your actual machine run slow if its old.

Cleaned and assembled my Vespa Project, waiting on a Bluetooth Dongle to get it going.

the digital panel on the glovebox looks pro.. I wanna see a closeup of that!

Once you get it on the road - gotta post a video for us to get a better sense of it.
Looking forward.

I'll post a photo tomorrow.

Definitely, but for now, it RUNS!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=STywl4uOLNk