Modern Vespa

I'm totally geeking out at your array of beauty products + fluffy towel for B62. I gave Blue your "Deluxe Triple Treatment" a couple of years ago but she's definitely due again. Thanks for the pictorial motivation. Show us B62's "after" shine, please

Why, I thought you'd never ask!

And it's been a couple years for B62 too...


Ohhh, so nice....

I just love those curves...

Original Upsetters SC sticker that was on the scooter when I got it.

Semi clean engine. Definitely not Vader clean... Thinking wistfully...

All the rubber got 303 protectant and all aluminum got Mother's polish

Can't forget the engine cowl!

Remind us again on what those products are and what your process is?

Sure thing John.
All McGuire products.
1) rubbing compound - it cleans up oxidation and single stage paint really well, and it's not too harsh. Just rub it on and buff it off.

2) #7 Show Car Glaze - put it on thick and let it sit overnight. The paint soaks it up, wipe off the excess the next day

3) Ultimate Liquid Wax - I like to put two coats of this stuff on. Apply, wait two to five minutes, wipe off, repeat

4) 303 Protect - squirt on a rag and wipe down anything rubber. Great stuff. My old neighbor worked for the coast guard and they'd treat all the rubber on their dry suits. He saw me using it one day and told me the story.

5) Mother's polish - I use this on the kick start lever, brake lever, clutch and brake lever, mirror base, and last but not least, the aluminum trim. Shines it right up.

That's it! And it's ready for just a few touch ups and surface cleaning until I get the wild hair and decide do it again, or that it needs it.


Half was just done with the rubbing compound when I first got Ruby. I was amazed...

One word. Two syllables.

DAY-UM!!!!!!!

I don't usually swear, but the showroom shine on B62 is glorious! I'm in awe. The Michelin tire is almost glowing and I'd put a Vader label on your engine for sure!

Thanks for the inspiring pics and the perfectly selected luxury spa line-up. Guessing many of us are currently shopping at McGuire's

(I also like the wall placement of your leather jacket and helmet)

I remember that Ruby pic! It's what got me started….

This is your 6666th post.

damn i was hoping that 6666 would be something more evil

Thank you for the kind words K! When I rearranged the garage I wanted the helmet and jacket to be easy access. So far it's working out well!

Looks great!

What is the little knob on your spare carrier?

reknob

Seems to be a ram mount for a phone.

BING BING BING BING - WINNER!

I've got them on my other scooters and can use my phone as a GPS, directions, etc.

Or Altoids carrier...


I use my phone for pictures, so i used the Altoids for visual effect

Success! Or I should say, I've got a functioning selector box again. Thank you Scooter Mercato.

The weather is getting funky here, so I may check it out on Saturday. At least it was the correct selector box....


It looks the same size

It installed fairly easy and I've got the cables tightened

The lid fits and everything!

B62 is ready to roll!

It all started because the steering lock is keyless and doesn't work.

To replace it requires the steering column to be removed.

Ok, I might as well replace the cables and bearings while I'm at it...

All this for a stinkin column lock..... I gotta be a gluten for punishment. Oh well, here we go...


New stuff - always exciting

On the table

Looks like I've got a leak at the fuel tap. Might as well as pull the tank

And while the tank is out, it'd be nice to hide the regulator and wiring in the tank cavity. Wait - lock, bearings and cables first!

Old lock and thrashed cable and wiring loom. Gotta fix that

Pulled the column and cleaned the old races and bearings to inspect

Pitting in both races. I knew this was the case last time I had the column out but I didn't have new bearings and races in my hand and didn't want to wait ..

Tap tap tap goes in the races

And the new lock is in. Unfortunately you cannot remove the key unless it's locked. What a lame "feature".

Now I'm sitting and contemplating what to do next - throttle cable? Put in the column? Time to look outside and have some pistachios

It's all the pastries that make you a gluten.

This is a perfect example of how "one little thing" turns into ten big ones!

Ain't that the truth!

I decided to pull the tank, then the headset and clean up everything proper. That'll be another time. I'm switching gears and getting ready for the storm


Looks good inside the tank. The hose fitting at the carb was leaking...

Boiiinnngggg - this will be nice to clean up...

Electrical cleanup is done! Well, the front half anyway

BTW, I used 3/4" heat shrink tubing 3-to-1 shrink ability. If I had 1/2", I would have used it instead.

As usual, it's on order, but I didn't want to wait


Check it out - 61 year old string they used to hold the wires together. It's staying!

New heat shrink tubing far into the tunnel, overlapping the original sheath. And all wire ends re-tinned.

My God, the Gascooter posts that keep on giving
Love how you work.

You're going to love the difference when you switch out the outers with those.

Btw do you have link for those strip lights (assuming you like them)?

Thanks Ray for the compliment.

As far as the lights - they're my wife's rejects for her plant room, haworthias mainly. I've got a couple 4' ones directly above the lift and a couple of those 2' ones strung together so I can use them like a wand. It works pretty good.

Here's a link: https://a.co/d/6pOMpN8

Here is the description: (Pack of 6) Barrina LED T5 Integrated Single Fixture, 2FT, 6500K (Super Bright White), Utility Shop Light, Ceiling and Under Cabinet Light, ETL Listed, Corded Electric with Built-in ON/Off Switch

Those lights would be mood lighting in my workshop

The price on them has gone way up since I bought them, but I have these and they've been great. 48,000 lumens total in under 250 square feet, so basically 200 footcandles--that's the spec for final automotive assembly, inspection, and finishing.

I'm surprised I don't get a tan working in there

Unfortunately you can remove the key when you turn it and it is in locked position. Or soon will be, and therein lies the problem. That flap that flips down to lock the column to the left is spring loaded so you can pull the key out while straight ahead, but it wont lock the fork until you turn left. And I read that's happened to a few people who forgot to put the key in and turn it before riding off. Bad news the first time they turned left.



That's why I keep the key in the bike and safely tethered there w/ a lanyard. I can always take the key if I park somewhere out in public, but it STAYS with the bike all the rest of the time. I forgot about this once while wheeling it around the the shop, the key put away safe. Almost dumped it when the steering suddenly locked and skinned my shin in the struggle .

It'll be an "adjustment" for sure. Fortunately there's been only a few times that I was concerned it'd roll away without me, and I'll use the lock for those times. That's the idea anyway

The key/lock I bought for my GL didn't have any of these issues, so I guess I got lucky on that one.

As to locking any of my bikes when I park them, I usually just assume the fuel tap and kickstart are all the immobilizer I need.

Now I'm thinking of putting in the old broken lock, and not dealing with a lock at all

C'est la vie

I got a couple of new cables run and a mild stroke of genius happened

First off, I use the Sausage method of cable outer replacement. I've got a long inner from the bike shop - a tandem brake cable - and I thread that into my new housing, then into the old housing, and just gently pull the old out and new in. Super slick.

But the throttle cable has ends on both sides of the cable, so I just taped the new onto the old and slowly cajoled the old out and the new in.

The stroke of genius comes in at the clutch and front brake lever area. My clutch housing has slipped it's spot where it's supposed to be held tight, which shreads the outer and makes the clutch inoperative. Those little cable end guides would fix the issue but the 62 8snt designed to use them. Ok, so drill it out to use it - genius!

So that's what I did. I only got the clutch and throttle cable run on account of too busy watching snow fall from the sky, a rarity here...


First, the snow, it's mostly melted now

Had to cut the little cable guide off the throttle cable. The 62 doesn't use the. They don't fit

New clutch cable is much beefier - nice. And now, it's not the front brake cable.

Use the tandem cable and thread thought the new housing, then the old

Like this, then pull both through

And out pops the old and the new housing.

This is the clutch cable housing holder. If that hole were slightly bigger, I could use the cable guide cap and it won't slip off and around the cable holder

What size drill bit do I need?

This one will do. I got the case of bits from my father in laws shop - thanks Dave!!!

Hole drilled - will the guide fit? Let's see...

It fits and looks like it'll fit nicely. Now I'll drill out the brake cable holder

So now I'll get to use these cable guides on at least the front brake and most importantly, the clutch! Yes!

Nicely done!

As y'all may be aware - my fave scoot.
Not gonna spend my time justifying - we love who we love.

qas - couple quick observations.
- The idea of a lock engaging when I'm riding has always freaked me out. In fact - I removed mine completely. No shame in keeping it simple.
- Love the mod for cable. I like to JB weld (after q tip & acetone swabing) my cable cap into the hole (that you drilled). This allows the end cap's "cup" to provide a nice area for the cable to slip in and out of as you turn the handlebars. Erotic parallels aside - its a lot easier for the cable to re-find the cup of the stationary bonded in cap - then it is for the cap's tip to refind the hole you drilled.

Editors note - at this point - if you are considering your teens, and any mishaps - its not my fault.

- Finally, I think those cables may get mangled again. Looks like maybe you have a sharp edge that is acting like a file and tearing them up. Speaking of files - maybe you could just relive the entry edge of those slots (seen below with green arrows) so that they don't want to bite into your cables and wires.

Maybe past non Piagio certified wrenches were used to loosen or tighten the column nuts, and they have been turned into cable eating monsters.

Thanks LuckyBear! And thanks for the ideas CM22! Those are fantastic.

I'm going to definitely glue in the cable guides and ensure no snares are on those big nuts. I've also got another idea that I'll implement, but I'll show that one when I get to reassembly.

And you know Ned, you ever get up to the PNW, specifically the Central Oregon Coast, you can take B62 for a ride - I'll give you the grand tour of the area. The ride to Yachats and back is spectacular - not quite as warm as you're used to, but spectacular none the less!

Come to think of it, the Oregon 100 is coming up in may

https://www.oregon100rally.com/


A couple years back...

The housing is held tight by its length and sufficient pull through the chassis.
The outer should be pulled past the socket then guided back, pushing/maneuvering with a screwdriver and pulling with your wire (clamped at the other end) to seat it.

No epoxy needed

And it's a PITA every time to get it tight enough, and then move the lever out of the way to push the cable back into position, then hope when you get the lever back into position the cable is still tight enough to hold the housing in place.

Then there's the scenario when it's too tight and you're pulling in the clutch to get the housing in place, and it's too much to get the lever reinstalled.

PITA!

It's going to be nice to have the cable guide locked in (a cable guide at all is an improvement) and just install the lever after pulling everything tight, then adjust. No more housing slipping past the mount.

BUT - I hear what you're saying Ray. I'm just tired of perfecting the art of clutch cable housing finesse...

There was a 5mm socket behind that tab to keep the ferrule from sliding horizontally.
Only way I could find how to seat the outer correctly (no cap) was the wire-pull method. Rotated the headset to confirm the outer had enough positive tension, then fed the cable through.
Your mod is an improvement on the original design, as it was only maybe 2mm deep.


Behind here

You definitely used your mastery of all things Vespa to get that cable to stay in place Ray.

I spent more time fumbling around than I'd like, until I finally got a method figured out, and it only worked some of the time.

We'll see how everything goes back together. I've decided to pull the lock entirely and put a plug in the hole and reroute the CHT wire through it...

I'm still trying to figure out the possible problem that might arise with the column lock. My lock cylinder isn't spring loaded, so where is this danger concern stemming from? My Allstate is missing the column key and i would like to get the lock operational again.

John, I think that if you don't have a key that means that your column should be in locked position with the key removed. And yours isn't which tells me that your lock is likely broken like Scott's original - the tab has been busted off and it no longer locks. I'd guess if you've lost the key that torquing the headset hard to the right as you can, would do it on these older locks.

The newer style lock is spring loaded to UNLOCK, and you can obviously pull the key when unlocked so you can't accidentally lock when riding and it seems that Piaggio learned their lesson




you can see the key rotates an eccentric to push that tab down against a spring which you can't see here

Maybe use your old lock and drill a small hole for your wire that comes out from the back side?

Good idea V oodoo, but I'll probably put a rubber plug in the hole instead. It won't look as good, but it'll be functional.

I made a video of the lock mechanism...

I greased up the steering column bearings and got it installed.

Then I added a couple of special patent pending cable sleeves out of flexible cutting board material. This should keep the cable sheaths and wires from chafing

And of course, the shifter and clutch cable outers are too long and the throttle cable is too short.

Tomorrow I'll shorten the outers but I did get the throttle cable installed




Locked down!

Inner and outer sleeves in place to prevent chafing

Throttle cable inner too short - dooohhh

I cut down the clutch and shifter outers.
I used the Dremel because it gave a cleaner cut.
Put on the caps and got everything in position.
Not much, but little by little.. .


I cut off this much off the too long outers

Then I used a file and cleaned up the ends before putting the caps on...

I also put a length of heat shrink tubing over the shifter outers

I'm using Voodoo's method of shifter cable adjustment. Next time I get to the garage...

What about gluing a stainless (or aluminum) fender washer over the top of the hole? The just use a smaller rubber grommet in the washer for the wires to pass through

*DISCLAIMER: It may or may not look better than a black rubber plug.

Hmmm, good idea!