Modern Vespa

What's your throttle routine for measuring and what kind of magic did you do to be able to have excess wire at the headset and still seat that pinch bolt?

I'm struggling with throttle lengths secretly I think…

Funny story, Scott:
I have the original lock, and a key in a drawer I never use.
Never take my eyes off my Allstate for long here!
But if I have to park somewhere for a bit I rotate the headset and fake-twist a random key near it

Even a non-functioning "lock" is a deterrent to some extent(?).

A cheap cover works well as a deterrent. Also prevents social media influencers from posing for pics on it

Folds up into a small bag:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09T3CDYFD/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?pd_rd_i=B09T3CDYFD&pd_rd_w=KopTB&content-id=amzn1.sym.dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_p=dd2c6db7-6626-466d-bf04-9570e69a7df0&pf_rd_r=M6JMNP4W5QE40Z567K9N&pd_rd_wg=j4iMF&pd_rd_r=5b4bf9d9-7a68-4051-a45c-cbeace32893d&s=sporting-goods&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEzRURISTdSTlkxTFlJJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwNTk3MjU1MlROV0NPNENPVlJJSCZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwODEzMzI2MVlMVjVFQUdOR0MzSiZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2RldGFpbF90aGVtYXRpYyZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU&th=1

Ha - good story Ray! I'm more inclined to bring a chain and lock than a cover. And I'm with you - I'm never far from B62 - ever!

So here's the skinny on the throttle cable FM...

.5) Screw in the cable adjustment thingies on the carb box
1) Get the outer cable in place on both ends.
2) Get a long inner cable for a P series, with the carb end attached.
3) Feed cable in from carb until it barely pokes.out the top.
4) Unscrew the pinch bolt and put it in the position in the throttle assembly.
5) Now feed the wire up slowly, through the pinch bolt. This took some time, and a pair of tiny needle nose pliers and zen grasshopper patience.
6) connect the carb end of the throttle cable.
7) pull the cable tight at the top end, just snug,
8) Make sure the throttle is off.
9) then use a tiny screwdriver and tighten down the pinch bolt. Make sure it's TIGHT!
10) cut the cable so when you twist WOT, you don't contact the clamshell cover.
11) Voila - you did it!

I got the clutch lever and cable attached, and also adjusted the shifter cables.

And I plugged the lock hole with a rubber plug.

I used Voodoo's special shifter cable tightening process - works like a charm! Thanks Terry

I had a bit of a struggle with the front brake. The fancy SIP cable is larger than the original, and the outer cap wouldn't fit into the handlebar - so I took it off.

I put it all together and it was rough and not working very well. Turns out the cable housing and the cable alignment hat or cap had some slop, and was causing cable drag.

So I wrapped some tape around the outer and fit the alignment cap and put it back together. Voila, it works great now!

Then I put the headset back together

Question for y'all - while I have the tank out should I:

Take some extra time and put the Vape wiring in the tank cavity and make it all pretty, like the Gickster did, or,

Blow it off for now and just put the tank back in, and use the saved time to get the P200 front end fitted with a disc brake

I'm at a crossroads....

Easy: wiring clean up should only be executed with passion.
Feel no guilt reinstalling the tank and saving the clean up until really feel like doing it.
Tank only adds 15 min to the job.
🙂

I'm not too keen on the current location of the regulator. The reason being is that it's located at the furthest point away from the pivot point on the swingarm. That puts a lot of stress on that the wires right there when the shock travels up and down. Eventually those wires will break.

I'm currently having a brain fart, but i think i mounted my Vape reg/rec under the tank right below the seat pin)? I'd have to go over to my shop and double check though to make sure. I'm currently working on three different wire harnesses on three different scooters (Allstate, VB1, PK...and removing a good 1/4 of the wire harness from KTM 990R...and just buttoned up wiring in my friend's 990 as well), so my brain feels a little frazzled for the past month. But i normally (as in always so far) install the vape reg/rec under my fuel tank. I like to drill a 6mm hole from underneath where the rear wheel well is (same-ish area around the rear shock mount) and then insert a stainless steel 6mm screw up through that same hole. I'll give is a tack weld from underneath, then a quick shot of primer. The two reasons i do that is-
-it gives me something to bolt the reg/rec to.
-there's no better ground that a stainless stud that's welded to the frame. And i usually tack weld in a stainless stud in two or three different areas of the frame. Under the seat, next to the battery, and under the horncast. You could say i like to be grounded.

Thanks for the perspective CM22. I'm currently not feeling it, but maybe tomorrow I'll get fired up about it. If now, no harm in buttering it up....

And thanks Whodat for the info. Great idea tackwelding a bolt from underneath into the tank cavity.

There is a third option, and that's make a custom plate to attach it to the engine case, and MJRally is currently in the process of making one right now. That would keep strain away from the wires. Still, not the cleanest look, but easy to get to....

I would say, make the wiring perfect while you're in there, but that's not what I would end up doing.

Last time I was in that situation, I left the wiring ugly but functional so as not to interrupt my flow. 😉

I wouldn't worry about the aesthetics (my wiring is generally a rat's nest for at least the first year I have it in place) until you're fired up and ready to clean it up.

Like whodats, though, I'd be worried about vibration and bouncing causing the wires to break and creating intermittent, super-annoying failures at really inconvenient times.

TL;DR: If it ain't broke, don't fix it. But it's gonna break if you don't fix it.

I've got the regulator under the tank too but mines attached using one of the glovebox cowl screws. Just sanded to bare metal and hooked it up to that. Easy peasy.

Am I the only one that hates those crimp connectors with the blue plastic sleeves?

Nope. They are terrible unless you don't own a proper pair of crimpers.

Crush connectors are for people who crimp their cables with channel locks or vice grips.

And nobody wants their "flow" interrupted Thanks for your take on the matter Orwell. This! I love it, and it's exactly why I've been wanting to move it.... Nice! Thanks for this FM. That may be where I put it also.... Big, clunky things for sure. They make all the wiring look so refined - ha!

Affordable ratcheting crimp tools are available just about everywhere nowadays. It's well worth the investment to buy one and a bunch of different sized dies to go with.

Ummm....i gotta do some updating from my previous reply...
i just spent a full 5 minutes looking around in my shop this afternoon looking for the Allstate's VAPE reg/rec because i THOUGHT i had mounted it under the tank...apparently not. After looking all over the scooter 4 (yes 4 different times), looking through boxes, even searching the top shelf didn't produce any results either. I then was thinking that perhaps i didn't get around to wiring it up just yet?...

...a 5th time of searching around in/on the scooter, and there it was...derp

Haha - I love this. Sounds like something I would do, big time!

Some things:

Is that ground wire soldered the the regulator?
Don't tell anyone, but a machine screw there will be very solid ground.
I know. No holes, no holes... Just sayin'

The connections to it are spade connectors. In two years of pretty much daily riding & MANY bumps, the only issue I had with your setup was a spade slip-out.
"Might have" hooked it with the cowl pin
Just added more friction for now. I've got a 12-18awg auto/waterproof connector set on the shelf if it happens again. Maybe $25 or so on Amazon.

If you want to relocate it, don't go under the tank!
If in the future you want to go DC/battery, inside the left cowl is where you want regulator wiring to be.

You only need to switch the SIP regulator for DC. Everything else on that Vape is the same.
In the meantime, you can check things without having to remove the tank.

This is good info Ray - thanks!

I don't know why I didn't see this 12 weeks ago....

Don't you need the DC CDI as well?

The CDI only determines whether its static or variable timing. The choice of regulator/rectifier determines if it's AC or DC.

The Vape is the same stator+flywheel in all cases, then the CDI & Reg/Rec are effectively modular. It's actually a really slick design approach, IMO.

Interesting, thanks for the correction.