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OP
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So I decided to try to go ahead with this project that I was whining about in my last post - "So, why would anyone do this"? I started going thru boxes of stuff and then took a good look at the frame body. It is fairly solid, but seems to me that the top of the neck is twisted some. Is there anyway to see if this is true or will it work as is?
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Banned
2009 GTS 250, 2013 Buddy 125, 2014 Triumph Bonneville
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2038 Location: North Jersey |
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To my eyes, the only part that's "twisted" is the very front, the area that rises vertically. I'd think it's good to go as is.
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Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1347 Location: Deep in the heart of Texas |
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You can get a laser level that will show you if its strait. The level has a laser line that cross with another laser line. Great for around the house and shop, too.
https://www.amazon.com/Qooltek-Multipurpose-measure-Adjusted-Standard/dp/B00PQ4PJYC/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=laser+level&qid=1570407383&sr=8-5 |
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Hooked
1980 P200, 1974 90/100 smallframe, 1972 primavera (under construction), 1974 kawasaki F7
Joined: UTC
Posts: 261 Location: San Diego |
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Not an expert here...but if the legshield is a little off, it's no problem moving or bending back into shape. It would be most important to ensure the steering tube and center channel are all squared away.
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Legshield looks wonky and I think that is causing a optical illusion that makes the steer tube appear crooked. I second the laser level option
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9587 Location: Ballarat VIC, Australia |
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Hey Tierney. Whether or not the legshield is crooked the important bit is that the steering tube is perpendicular to the engine mounts.
Mine was a bit twisted and had the tell-tale ripples behind the front mudguard. I borrowed a laser, maybe you can ask around? It was fantastic to get an accurate measurement. First I set it up on a table and made sure it was level through the engine mount holes. ![]() First pass ![]() Vertical rod at the rear to help align the centre rear with centre front ![]() Tweaking - easier to twist the frame than I imagined!
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RIP
Veni, Vidi, Posti
In garage: Yamaha Tricity 155 Urban 2019 - MV Agusta 125 RS 1956
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8291 Location: Latina (Italy) |
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Build a 5 cm high wooden template with the correct curve to slide from top to bottom; for the correct curvature you can take it from a equal Vespa using a cardboard shape.
Then with a lot of patience and a hammer with wooden and lead heads you can reshape; with the wooden head act on the parts with little correction and with that on lead on the others. I recommend that the head is wide and slightly rounded. A wonderful job Ginch, congratulations. I have been renovating motorcycles since 1981 (not scooters but I saw how other restorers do) and I understand something. |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
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Molto Verboso
bare metal cafe racer
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1379 Location: Aotearoa (New Zealand) |
UTC
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I just went through similar - and used the laser like Ginch.
See: How to cheat and get a barn find. (Page 10) |
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OP
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Thanks everyone , especially you Ginch, for all the suggestions. I should have time in the next week or so to check it out. Next up: welding and fabrication. Can't wait.
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Hi, I just realised that I Did not get my frame straightened enough and now a nee floor is welded. Do I need to drill it out again? That would be painful
Can it damage the fork tube or how its attached by bending with a long bar like that? Hiw much force is needed. I can feel i flexing a bit but hesitated... Thanks
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