OP
UTC

Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
 
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
UTC quote
This morning I discovered my engine-side cowl hanging by the front cowl pin. The rear pin/stud (the curved one that hooks in the hole by the license plate) sheared off somehow and has gone missing. Bike is a Stella 2T.

I have a spare set of cowls, but would like to repair this one.

Does anyone have any advice as to how to go about fixing it? I suppose I have to find someone to weld on a new pin, but where to I get a pin? Or is there an easier bodge-type solution?

Thanks in advance for any advice,

Jason
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
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69 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9928
Location: Nashville

69 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
The Right Way is to tack weld the old pin or a replacement in place.

Or you can do what I did with my Stella, which had the exact same failure. I took an M6 bolt, attached it through the old hole, then bent it until it matched the bend of the original pin.

It's not pretty, but after a year, it still works just fine.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
 
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
UTC quote
Any thoughts on where to find a replacement pin/peg or whatever it is called? Scooterwest doesn't seem to have anything.
UTC

parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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UTC quote
It wouldn't be too hard to just make one then weld it on. Go to the hardware store and buy a length of solid rod. Put a bend in it and your ready to weld it up. If you want to have a little ridge on the tip of it (to keep the rubber tube fixed), tack weld a small washer on the end of it.
@mjrally avatar
UTC

Veni, Vidi, Posti
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
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Location: Oceanside, CA
 
Veni, Vidi, Posti
@mjrally avatar
73 & 74 Rally, 76 ET3, 80 P200, 06 PX150, 59 Ser 2, 65 Silver Special, 90 V5N 50, 2015 HD Road Glide Special
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5138
Location: Oceanside, CA
UTC quote
Second mock one up and get it welded on.

Take a 6 pack of beer to your local welding shop/ muffler shop and ask if they can weld it on like your spare cowl. Worked for me a few years back!
@worrywort avatar
UTC

Hooked
PX125E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 190
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
 
Hooked
@worrywort avatar
PX125E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 190
Location: Gravesend, Kent, UK
UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
The Right Way is to tack weld the old pin or a replacement in place.

Or you can do what I did with my Stella, which had the exact same failure. I took an M6 bolt, attached it through the old hole, then bent it until it matched the bend of the original pin.

It's not pretty, but after a year, it still works just fine.
Hello. I really don't like to contradict You chandlerman but my mate has a Rally 200 which needs the body welding as the bolt trick worked like a file. I Don't know how long it took but once it had burred away the thick metal around the hole it filed a slot in a matter of miles.

What about using a Nail. File the head down a bit. The welder shouldn't have a problem.
@chandlerman avatar
UTC

Lucky
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9928
Location: Nashville

69 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 79 P200E, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9928
Location: Nashville

69 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
worrywort wrote:
Hello. I really don't like to contradict You chandlerman but my mate has a Rally 200 which needs the body welding as the bolt trick worked like a file. I Don't know how long it took but once it had burred away the thick metal around the hole it filed a slot in a matter of miles.

What about using a Nail. File the head down a bit. The welder shouldn't have a problem.
It doesn't hurt my feelings to be contradicted. I'm wrong on a regular basis . I bolted it in place with washers on either side, so no play to speak of. Maybe that was the difference?
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5242
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5242
UTC quote
worrywort wrote:
chandlerman wrote:
The Right Way is to tack weld the old pin or a replacement in place.

Or you can do what I did with my Stella, which had the exact same failure. I took an M6 bolt, attached it through the old hole, then bent it until it matched the bend of the original pin.

It's not pretty, but after a year, it still works just fine.
Hello. I really don't like to contradict You chandlerman but my mate has a Rally 200 which needs the body welding as the bolt trick worked like a file. I Don't know how long it took but once it had burred away the thick metal around the hole it filed a slot in a matter of miles.

What about using a Nail. File the head down a bit. The welder shouldn't have a problem.
That's an even better idea than mine! A 40d nail (spike) would be the size you're after. The vespa pin is just under 1/4" in diameter (.233" diameter for the shaft and .30" diameter for the head).
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
Before welding in a rod, put it in a vise and use a hammer to mushroom the end. This gives it the same shape as the original to hold the rubber sleeve on.
UTC

Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
 
Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
UTC quote
Or put a hose on the bolt.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
 
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
UTC quote
The 40d nail idea is genius. I will try that, with JB Weld, see what happens (and with the rubber hose over it). Thanks guys!
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 9618
Location: seattle/athens
UTC quote
I'm pretty sure you're gonna have to get it welded or it'll break again. Vibration is a bitch. Livid emoticon

Maybe somebody who knows how to protect the paint where it shows & then spray some rustproof primer over the weld?
UTC

parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 5242
UTC quote
yackee wrote:
The 40d nail idea is genius. I will try that, with JB Weld, see what happens (and with the rubber hose over it). Thanks guys!
If you use JB Weld i will come find where you live and give you a face to face toungue lashing!

...and no VoodDoo, not Shoe Goo either!!!
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
yackee wrote:
I will try that, with JB Weld, see what happens
ROFL emoticon
UTC

Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
 
Hooked
GS160
Joined: UTC
Posts: 308
Location: Åland
UTC quote
One of my GS160 cowl pins came off once. I had a guy TIG-weld it back. No harm to the paint.

I don't know if the pins are located in the same way on a Stella, on the GS it's on sort-of-a flange some distance from the paint.
OP
UTC

Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
 
Hooked
Rat 2003 Stella 2T; 1979 P125x (in pieces, out for paint)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 384
Location: Madtown
UTC quote
OK, I really don't want. tongue-lashing. Plus, my tubes of JB Weld look to be 20 years old. I'll try to find a welder.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
yackee wrote:
OK, I really don't want. tongue-lashing. Plus, my tubes of JB Weld look to be 20 years old. I'll try to find a welder.
JB Weld is great stuff, but it's just not right for this type of repair.
⬆️    About 4 years elapsed    ⬇️
@oopsclunkthud avatar
UTC

Banned
3:5
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Posts: 8989
Location: San Francisco
 
Banned
@oopsclunkthud avatar
3:5
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8989
Location: San Francisco
UTC quote
Almost lost the pin on my Rally cowl this past weekend, but caught it on time.

Before having it welded up I took the following measurements off the old pin to use for any future repairs.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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