Modern Vespa

By the way, what part of Florida are you located?

I live in Pasco County and I never ended up on Live PD. Lol.

I think I found a top end, but still looking for a 20/20 carb - anyone holding?

I was born and raised in Palm Beach county. Lived there for 50 years then moved here to SC. I rode up hwy 19 about 40 years ago on a 1973 BMW R75/5. Nice quiet trip as I remember.

I have a 20/20 laying about...

Needs a hella good cleaning, but is solid. Send me your addy via PM

I grew up on key Biscayne and moved to Tampa and the to Pasco. My next stop will be Tenn. Love riding my bikes in the mountains.

I'm enjoying this thread very much. Great stuff. Keep it up.

Just want to say thanks to people replied to my request for a 20/20 carb and I should had been more specific as I was only looking for a non-injected one. Any how, I found one from a local that is moving up to a 24.

Over the weekend, I did not have much time, I managed to get the stator (new points and condenser), flywheel, backing plate and coil installed. I still did not have a top end, so I went to visit a local scoot dude, who just happens to be the guy I gifted my smallframe project to recently. A few other guys were around and I recounted my tall of woe (or sniveled, take you pick). Then one of them say" I got just what you are looking for", takes off, comes back ten minutes later with a Pinasco 2 port kit. He bought years ago and thinks he got it from Scooterworks? They were having some kind of crazy sale, so it was bought and he regretted the purchase as it is a cast iron barrel and he thought he was getting a new aluminum one. So, I bought it for what he paid for it back then. He was happy to get it off the shelf and I was happy to get a top end. A bit more than a stock top end, but no complaints here. I have a 20/20 carb on the way to replace the tatty 20/17, did some digging and it seems a 55/160 idle and a 160/be3/110 jet stack is the place to start. I already chamfered the ports and checked the ring gap, Any other suggestions? I know nothing about tuning

Tierney,
Quite the story so far here!

Any word from your body guy? Looking forward to seeing the photos of the frame after blasting as well.

What color will you settle on in the end?

Ryan

The color is going to be silver with a bit of blue as I am trying to get as close to original as possible.

Nice score via the err snivelling, I mean expressing your situation.

More stuff done: Body was media blasted and powder coated. I know this will upset some on here, but the guy that does this work has become a buddy that does top notch work. He even did some welding for me around the opening in the front fender and at the bottom of the tail section. I was trying to get a color as close to the original, but this came up more gray than blue. You can't see the silver very well in the pics, so I'll get some outside pics where it shows up better, eventually. Anywho, a care packaged arrived from Scooter Mercato in record time (Thanks David!), so I managed to install the front trim, wiring loom and some of the floor rails. With any luck, I'll get the engine installed in a day or two. Happy days

Looks nice and straight. Hard to tell color from pics, but does seem more gray than blue ... is it metallic?

geeze that was quick looking good!

You're doing great. Did you get the floor rails with the protrusions on the underside for the outside rails? How are you attaching them?
How was the wiring loom and cables install?

I'm a fan of powder coating and I think that color will work OK. I know you're glad you powder coated it while installing rails, wires, and cables because of the durability. I have one of my scoots powder coated and doubt I'll powder coat again because it seems everything I get needs major body work. But if I did it again I would go to this company to get a color match https://www.axalta.com/powder_us/en_US/replashade.html. They have an app that matches to the colors with what they provide and ship the powder out to you.

Glad to see this project coming along.

SoCal , there is metallic in it, so it will show up better in the sunlight. The body parts are far from straight. There are dents that I could not get out (or see) with a hammer and dolly. That's the downside of powder coating: no filler can be used.
Rowdy, I looked but did not know about this company. In the end, this was something he had in stock, hence the good price. Also, if I was doing a primo resto on it, the scoot would have been painted. As far as powder coating goes, I'm a big fan. The stuff is really tough and does not chip out like paint. You are limited to a 90% gloss, sometimes 80%, but I can live with that. Not really into shiny scoots for myself.
Lynnb, Yes the outside rails have that built it. I am using 1/8 inch aluminum rivets with back up washers for the inside spots, the outside bits are attached with the soft rivets that are hand peaned into place.
Hibbert, it does not seem like quick, but thanks anyway.

How was the leg shield trim to install it and where did you pick it up? I'm still up in the air whether I'm going to put one or leave it simply painted.

They are medium easy/hard to install and Tierney did a great job!

But you need the roller tool as well as your Vise Grip thingy.
IMO they are totally worth it, shined up like chrome original style leggy trim make scooter PoP hard!

Trim: http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Trim/84930

Nice and nice, top job Brother T 8)

Voodoo is this the tool needed?
http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Factory-Tools/T-23590

Tierney - enjoying this thread.
Scoot looks great - and you're pot luck parts approach is gonna lead to a tough/fun scoot with a lot of character.

Lynnb - I used this trim instead and liked the results. Others will have their own opinions... See link.

At first - the scale seamed large - but then I saw other original scoots with similar and I've grown to really like its looks.

Simplicity wise - it was a breeze to install. Philips head screw driver is all that's needed (though I did end up trimming a tiny bit where it overlapped the outer floor rails by a smidge.). Personally - would but it again - unless I was trying to keep or build a totally original scoot.

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/products/beading+legshield+_25094000

Thanks Charlie , David at Scootermerc has been really good to me so I will more than likely go with him, plus he owes me a few parts so this could move things along. In fact I was forced into buying my floor from Sip only after confirming with David that he wasn't sure when his were coming in. Great guy to deal with.

Thing have been a little slow at work,,so more time on the scoot was allowed. I managed to finish up the floor rails, fit the center stand, install the horn, fit the front fork and the headset. I then screwed up by installing the carb box and carb only to realize that it would be in the way when trying to rotate the engine up to connect to the rear shock. One of many brain farts. Still trying to sort out the wiring because the new loom I have has different colors that the original. I have a 6 volt regulator that may be installed if I can figure out how and where to do it. Electrical work is not my strong suite. I also may just go LED if I could figure that out as well, but not sure if that would work with a AC system. Then managed to get the cables hooked up and the cowls kinda hooked up - still getting there. The rubber is new but does not want to flex much in my semi-cold garage. As always and comments or suggestions are very welcome. Onward and upward!

Looks great to me. Stock motor?

Fairly stock. The original piston locator pin was screwed up so a hone with new rings were out. I was going to with a new piston and bore but could not find anyone around here to do it. It would have been cheaper to just buy a new cylinder and piston. But as luck would have it, a local sold me a older model (cast iron) Pinasco 177 kit that he had sitting on his shelf collecting dust. I hope to get it fired up in the next few weeks.

Looks fantastic, I'm having a hard time seeing it but did you simply butt the outside floor rail to the legtrim or run the legtrim under the top of the floor rail? I seem to recall seeing someone just had the outside floor rail tip just meeting the bottom end of the leg trim and thought it looked nice and clean that way.
What year is this one? I looked back but couldn't seem to narrow down where you made mention of the year.

The leg shield trim is almost run down to the floor rail tip. You can see in this pic it is almost right and there is a curve in the bottom of the leg shield where the trim terminates. Mine is off some and the rail is out a bit too far, but I plan to change it when I get more long rivets. And it is a 1966 Sprint (Allstate),

Killer detail work! That's what makes a great scoot.

Get it done enuff and go for a little ride maybe...

Report back, plz.

Another set back that I did not notice until after the finish was applied: the cowl pin must have been ripped off in it's past life. I don't know any welders and it being Sunday, I did not want to wait another few days to sort it out. I knew i would have to come up with some sort of back plate as there was very little there to weld too. So, I came up with this: an automotive clip heated and hammer flat open, cut to length, another hole drilled and attached. Then a 6 mm bolt heated, shaped to a curve and wrapped with a rubber bit of vacuum hose. Seems sold enough.

Thanks Voodoo, coming from you that means something. I have to sort out this wiring before any bang happens.

Nice hack on the pin! Good thinking. I've heated the rubber trim up on super hot water. Makes it nice and pliable when getting around the corners, especially on the left side cowl/glovebox. I also did the same for the floor rail rubber. Much easier to finesse into the track when it's been heated.

Oh, and before I dunked it in water, I squirted it all down with 303 protectant spray and let the trim soak in that stuff for a while. It just gives it a layer of protection before installing. My neighbor worked for the Coast Guard and they used the stuff on all their rubber and vinyl - gallons of it.

The scooter is looking awesome Tierney! Fantastic job!!!

Ok Tierney somewhere somehow it must have been yours I seen , have no idea where but I do know I like the look of the legshield end meeting up with the floor rail end

Just get spark, ride a bit* and sort the rest later. Sheeesh!

It is called a positive reinforcement and just deserts two fer.

*plus check out basic systems before you chase trivia. Slow & cautious, how are BOTH brakes used hard and how does it shift, where is the clutch after ten shifts, throttle controls all A-OK, no stick wide open and oh, does that kill switch wire have a bare end? Maybe it should in case something sticks WOT.

Qascooter, good idea about the boiling water, I have been using low heat setting on my heat gun. Of coarse, this would be all better if I was doing this any other time of year than winter. I always seem to do this during the winter - call me fool, but that's when the scoots get cheaper. Also, I WISH I would have put on some kind of protectant, the light gray trim is starting to look dark gray despite all the hand scrubbing, oh well, just a little patina I suppose.
Voodoo, I have the day off, so the bang may happen. but got to take care of the smaller details first that you suggested - and a few more.

Nice job on the cowl pin, even a small welder is so handy around the homestead.
Exciting to see it run.

Very neat solution for the pin Tierney!

I wanted to tackle the wiring next, or at least figure it out. The stock stator has four wires coming off it - blue, green, black and red. My wiring loom has an additional yellow wire. Most of the research I did suggested: A) buy a new stator with five wires, B) rewire the one I have or C) bin it all and start over with a newer system. I replaced two of the wonky wires already and was not willing to start over with something new. The coin stack is low enough already and I'll be lucky to buy tires when I'm done. So more research revealed that the yellow could be connected to the green via a jumper as long as all the other wiring is set up properly. Moving forward, the junction, switch at bars, and tail light were finished up with the headlight to be done after all the cables and speedo installed.

Most of the electrical out of the way, I needed to get stuff off the floor shelf, bench and installed. I'll be going out of town for work for several weeks, so I wanted to make sure of what I had and what I still need to buy. I tried to keep this somewhat original where I could. The seat cover was in bad shape, but I manged to save the small Sears badge as well as the brass button for opening the seat. Both were attached by non-salvageable rivets, so the brass bit was epoxied onto a screw type rivet whereas the badge was attached with floor rail rivets I had left over. Moving on, the tank and petcock were put into place, then the seat. Of coarse after I did all this did I realized in order to attach the Sears placard the the seat and tank will have to be removed again. But, it's getting there....