Modern Vespa

VRM will be here in about an hour to remove my ECU from my GTS 250. Anything we must be careful about?

We are trying to get new keys. George has pitched in and given us some advice on how to go about it.

The plan is to remove the ECU and send it somewhere to be revirginized. We are also planning to remove the barrel from the ignition switch.

I don't quite understand how it's going to be done. When they reflash the CDI, will they also provide me with a set of keys and the barrel?

Your input is much appreciated

Max

They are not re-flashing it they are virginizing it.

Okay please tell me more. Not so good with terminology here.

The so-called "revirginizing" is basically eliminating the pairing to the previous transponder key. Here is what AF1 says about their immobilizer/ECU service. BTW: they say you must also order the ignition barrel and keys.

https://www.af1racing.com/store/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=57181&sku=AF1-RE-VIRGIN&description=AF1+Racing+Immobilizer%2FECU+Service

I'd say pull the battery before you start (don't want to ruin any sensitive electronics) and take a lot of pictures with your phone as you go. You may need them when it comes time for reassembly.

The battery was disconnected. Let me try to take a picture.

Half of the mission accomplished

Dooglas I have only heard good things about them but I have decided to go with Scooterwest instead.

will scooterwest do the re-virginize thing as well? or do you need to buy a new ECU?

The jury is still out on whether I need one or not. It came out in one piece.

There is a great guy in CT, has been using him many years to get keys coded. PM if interested.

Thank you that's kind of you.

SW we'll take care of the keys as well. I will also get an extra black key.

I am counting on VRM to drill the ignition switch barrel out. He worked on my lx50 so he has a pretty good idea of what he will be doing.

I might have to get a new antenna aeral since I broke a tab off and it's a little bit dodgy, take out the glove box and screw it back on.

Wow. It's here. Now let's get to work.

I forgot and VRM doesn't remember it either.

What size drill bit should we use to get the ignition switch barrel from the GTS 250?

it's called a pick, you pry out the pin and the lock comes out...

Only if it's unlocked already. If it's in the locked position it has to be drilled out.

An 8mm drill is required - depth 30mm. (5/16" drill, depth 1 1/8").

(I posted this for you some time ago, MAX...)

Thanks Jim I I'm going to take a second look at it tomorrow. Thumbs up!

JimC you are a peach.

Men at work

Just a small update on the GTS 250 re-keying.

I am waiting for a new battery.

Again I thank George for his invaluable input. I would also like to thank the folks at scooter West. I would like to thank my friends who worked tirelessly to help me out through this difficult situation.

VRM has been a pearl.

I will keep you posted with the results.

Battery supposed to get here by February 4.

I chose motobatt quadraflex technology because of the way my wiring is on the scooter.

Re-keying the lx50 has being achieved. 💟

The battery is here much sooner than I expected.

Make sure it's fully charged before first use - regardless that they say it doesn't need it.

so in the end - scooterwest used your old ECU and reset the keys for you?

Yes

So I come to find out that my old battery is bent out of shape and stuck in the well. I have tried to pull it out without any success.

Is it going to be any easier if I remove the floorboard?

What can I do?

My second question involves what you can see in the other picture. What goes in there? I mean am I missing a part?

My garage was violated when I was in the hospital. I have no idea what they might have done.

Battery must have frozen and swelled up. Try putting some bolts through the battery leads with a strap and try pulling out with the strap.

Upon closer look I can tell that the whole battery is warped. But it's stuck in there pretty well.

The Motobatt should have come with some bolts and other hardware.

Lever the old battery slightly front to back - if you can make it move at all add bolts to the terminals and make a strap to yank it out.

Thanks for the tip. You mean a wire strap?

That would be OK if the battery is dead, if not a piece of hold down strap would work.
Do what JimC said and try getting the battery to move some first.
Might even have someone pry back and forth on the battery while you pull on the strap.

The battery is dead I have a replacement. Do you think that I should wait until the spring? I mean is the battery going to shrivel up when it gets warmer? Inquiring minds wish to know!

Of course I'll follow Jim's advice.

is the bike in the cold? how cold? you don't want to break your plastics which will be more brittle if it is frigid out.

Below freezing. And we get a couple hours of tropical temperatures. It's nuts.

I'm at Max's place now and it looks like the battery swelled up a lot. Maybe half an inch on the sides and it is not about to come out easily. We put a cord between the opposite terminals and pulled hard enough that I thought the terminals might pull off the battery. I tried to get a screwdriver between the battery and the opening int scooter and pry the swollen side of the battery in with a little success but it needs to be a lot narrower than I am able to do with the screwdriver. I'm going to try a flat pry bar but I am not optimistic because there is very little room to get even a thin pry bar in. We may have to break up the battery and pull it out piece by piece, which I am not looking forward to. Does anyone have any other ideas?

Just a side question:

Yes anything's supposed to be on this two bolts?

A photo from further away to give a clue as to where those out-of-focus bolts are might be helpful.

There you go JimC:

Update:

With the help of my neighbor, the one with all the Harleys, we managed to get the battery out.

On our 300s the turn signal relay is fixed to those.

Hurray! So, when you put the new battery in, is all good?