Modern Vespa

I'm at my wits end trying to remove the self extracting flywheel from my 76 Sprint Veloce. No matter what I try, the extractor nut eventually pops the circlip out of the groove without moving the flywheel. I've tried:

Cleaning out the groove (it's spotless)
New circlip
Holding the circlip ends apart with a screwdriver head while extracting
Heat/cooling/tapping on crank
A slightly larger circlip for more tension
A stronger, stainless steel circlip
Searching the forum for stuff I haven't thought of

Any more ideas? Can I try a combination of the above with a 3 arm flywheel puller?

Desperate times call for desperate measures! Do you have a spare flywheel extractor off a P200 or something common? You can tack that to the flywheel and then use that to extract the flywheel. Then you'll sadly ruin the tool grinding the welds off it but it does work if that flywheel ain't budging.

I do have that tool! Man, this place is the greatest. Thanks.

1 or 2 holes in the flywheel? If it is 2, then an original flywheel extraction tool makes it a 30 second job.

Just 1 if I understand you (the plugged window for points adjustment).

Jon,

Got a part number for the tool?

i have an original in the shop. get you a photo tomorrow.

if it were me, i would be replacing the flywheel. therefore, i would weld a P-series flywheel extractor to the hub of the flywheel.

Wow, I thought my latest flywheel removal was bad. What worked for me: Pblaster with some heat, a new circlip with the sharp end facing out and an air impact with a six point socket.

I also tried yelling, "Fuck you, motor!"

This is a tough one. The piston is stuck too. I almost have it out, but there's a ton of piston debris and rust inside the case. Hoping the crank is salvagable. If not, then hopefully the case is.

If you are not going to use the crank, I would take a drift and give that crank a good smack a few times. This will sometimes break the bond between flywheel and crank. If it's been on there for a long time, odds go down for this approach.

try a bit of wood behind the flywheel and case....then smack that feckn nut with a good hammer .....the idea is to move the crank..not the flywheel....there is often just enough float/play in the bearing to get a few mm of travel and break the taper......but only after the nut is loose or cut off....drill some holes in that nut and then crack it off by twisting a big screwdriver..then do the whack trick on the crank with another nut to protect the thread

Ha..doin your time as a true scooterist.....others will be smiling at this and feeling your pain you will get it eventually

Good luck

Voodoo to the rescue. The welding trick worked. Flywheel is off. Engine is split.

We also pressed out the stuck piston. It's crazy how clean the transmission side is and how f'ed up the crankcase looks.There was a lot of shrapnel in there. Anyway, the crank actually looks salvageable. Big end bearing is nice. The barrel (3 port) is iffy.

Trying to decide between rebore and oversized piston versus something like a 177 kit.

Eric had a nice extractor which I was loathe to ruin, so we just used a big nut & piece of threaded rod which we ground a cone on the business end of to center on the crank. I think I can cut the nut off to save the flywheel which appears to be in good condition. Still need to check the magnets.

Nice job gentlmen! I'd say if you keep the grinding centralized, itll probably stay close to balanced. I tried to minimize the extra grinding and so far (two years) theres no flywheel/ electrical issues.

Successful recovery after testing the magnets with BIG wrenches easily gripping this thing tightly from below. Should be good for another 100, 000 miles anyway. The inside looks like new. And the big nut and screw can be used again too. Thanks for the idea, Jonathon.


weapons at the ready