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Thanks I put it on, I removed the lock washer and torqued to 5 lbs, hope I did good.
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79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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I think it's 11 ft lbs. Could someone else verify the torque settings for the engine case nuts?
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qascooter wrote:
I think it's 11 ft lbs. Could someone else verify the torque settings for the engine case nuts?
I saw 5 lbs somewhere , but of course I could be wrong.
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The Crankcase securing nut
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Hey Lynn - I've seen that number out there also. I'm trying to find 11ft lbs in writing. I know I got it on paper in my garage but here is a link: P series case torque settings
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Hmmm...
Well, this is what is hanging in my garage, and I'm sure I torqued to this sheet, so I wonder which value it is: 4.5-6 ft lbs, or 11 ft lbs???
So are the case nuts torque spec 4.5-6 ft lbs, or 11 ft lbs?
So are the case nuts torque spec 4.5-6 ft lbs, or 11 ft lbs?
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Lol I hope it is 10lbs , I retorqued.
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so I cracked my switch and ordered a new one and they are slightly different. Also when I ordered a wiring harness from scootermercato for my 62 allstate he said one for a vbb would work just fine. The thing is there is are extra wires!
my origial had six single wires and the vbb one has an extra green pair of wires.(3 colors are doubled too). Any advice? and how do I know which holes to put wires in. my idea was to copy the original switch but stuff is different! ill post pics first the original:
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new one:
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new wires:
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My fallback is I could just glue the switch back together and hook up all the wires but the green (which I believe is a tail light?). Here is my progress so far
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Yes, I'd try to glue it back together. Once it is installed it is fairly well supported and protected as long as you only take the hold down screw just snug I think. I've done on cracked in half ones before. Clean w/ acetone or similar first. I'd use my old standby ShoeGoo because it doesn't get hard and brittle and is sticky enough as you'll discover when you peel any you got on your fingers off after. It's like rubber cement on steroids.

Your bike is looking great!
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Well finally got the right wiring harness an started over. Lost a lot of ground but this isn't a race
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No race, there will always be something else, at least for a while. Laughing emoticon
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More progress and some happy hours in the shop 😊
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Speedo!!😊
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Your tray looks like a toolbox - ha! Wait, is that a pic of when I'm working on my scooter? Razz emoticon

Keep the faith - you'll get it! Looking good...
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I am trying to hook up the speedo cable for my 62 Allstate and it's all in place but I'm not sure how to secure it, after it's all screwed in it still pulls out with a gentle tug. There is this brass thingy that seems like a clamp, is this it? Where does it go?
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To clarify the fixture stays screwed in but the cable pulls out easily
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I just so happened to be at the same point and was wondering how it fit, did a bit of searching and came across this. VBB Speedo Drive installation
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Lynne, thanks so much for that! was super easy after I understood what was supposed to happen and how it worked!
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Engine is in! So relieved it fit haha and I did it by myself
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Sorry it's upside down!
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I know what a struggle it is to get an engine in by yourself , takes unique setting up. I built most of my bike up on the sawhorse table and had to get it down myself, that was interesting.
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Frame is really looking fine! Feels good to get that dang motor in, right?
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Thanks Lynne and Voodoo

well the engine was in then i had to take it out again to fix an obstruction in the rear brake cable passage (cable end). But now its back in! so......I was hooking up the front brake and this happened.....any better ideas than removing the front wheel and trying to get the threads out through brute force and luck? it came out easy the first time but then I always had problems getting it back in. It would just be a battle every turn...then about halfway in it snapped
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You have quite a length sticking out, go easy with small visegrips , been through this myself.
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You can also stick a square tipped bit in the end and give it a tap, then turn it out.

After you get it out, you might want to chase the threads in there with the proper tap to fit so next adjuster you screw in there will be like butter, with a dab of grease on it.

I don't know the size of the thread offhand.
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so things are good thanks for the good advice on removing the broken threads it worked with pliers!

and I GOT IT TO START!! but it races revs high then sputters and dies..I played with idle speed and airmix but nothing seems to help. Maybe an airleak? any advice on carb adjusting, troubleshooting? does this year vespa have a rubber gasket around the airbox? getting closer. oh and since it has gas now i would rather not take the carb apart, but will if need be
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I took apart, cleaned the carb and put it back together again, and lo and behold, she purrs!
This series of vids by Jeff Allen really helped!

first link is my 62 allstate, second is carb help


https://youtu.be/l2forFl4yXo


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wZ7eaFzQPSs
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Sounds great!

I didn't see your Oct 14 post!!! Sorry to leave you hanging but glad you have it sorted!
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Very nice CD - Sounds great. Way better than mine. I've got to rebuild her soon. I think you're going to enjoy running around on 8s...
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allstate
wow beautiful allstates gascooter! and no worries birdsnest! so I have to adjust the clutch cable and shifter cables but getting closer, then there is this distraction! just sold my modern 300gtv and got this 68 ss180.
question is I think I may have put a bit too much oil in it (i forget if I did 4% or 6%) It is newly rebuilt so I have heard its good to go on the rich side in the break in period. Its a smokey ride for sure, but I have also heard the ss 180 is smokey by nature. What do you all think?
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here is the ss180
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cable help
so run into a problem that will put me back many steps, my shifter and clutch cable have all slid down the neck of the bike. the cable still goes through but awkwardly and gets hung up. I will try to push them back up, but how do you place them correctly so they dont slip agaqin? heeeeellllpppp!!
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clarify please - they slipped while you had the headset off working on the bike? Or, are you saying they came unseated and slipped after you had buttoned up the headset?
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PS - nice score on the 180
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cables
oh yea sorry, not the cables but the housing when I buttoned it up they were a bit low but when I opened her up they were a lot lower, just the housing.
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So two things...

1. Get some red sticky grease and but a dollop on the ends of the outers and the top hats. It'll help keep the top hats in the gear guides and the outers in the top hats.

2. Make sure you bind (tape) the two selector cables together so that when they push/pull the outers don't move. I think Patrick or SoCal had a good picture in the GS160 cable thread ...let me see if I can find it for your reference.
⚠️ Last edited by Birdsnest on UTC; edited 1 time
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