Modern Vespa

I was surprised as to the results.

"https://youtu.be/ck_O5U1Tyz8"

Haven't tried those new HF icon tools yet but every time I go I look at that torque wrench cause the cheapo HF one I got last year I think is really inaccurate. I've had issues with overtorquing and digging into aluminum cause it decides not to click sometimes. And by new, I mean new to my local HF store... cause they just showed up a month or two ago. I see the video is a year old!

Checking video out now.

I would assume that a hundred dollar torque wrench would be better than a $19.99 cheap one. Yes, Harbor Freight sells cheap tools but they are dealing with Contractors on a daily basis. Just go there sometime and see the clientele. They are upping their game on one end and still selling to weekend mechanics on the other.

Gosh that video made me dizzy. If I were to spend more than $100 on a torque range I would expect it to come in a velvet-lined case.

I've used many high quality torque wrenches that are spot on. But, they're thousands of dollars. The two click type demonstrated are good 'in the area' tools. Quite satisfactory for most automotive work. There is one exclusion that's not mentioned. Handle/grip heat. There's a spring usually mounted within the handle. This spring is what actually reads the torque. It can be affected by temperature which will cause +/- results of 10% or more. Would of liked to see a temp test in the video...So just a hint. Keep your torque wrench out of direct sunlight or excessive heat/cold temps. Your wrench will give more accurate results.

I'm old school I guess, I don't like the click versions. I like the needle on the scale type.

Flordian, Is there any DIY approach to checking a toque wrenches calibration without having NASA's budget?

Miguel

LOL. Unfortunately, not that I know of other than the known weight on the handle test. A bush fix, but surprisingly accurate for a set range.

I was somewhat spoiled by sending tools to the recalibration guys. They did emphasize the heat thing and drop prevention. Even the number of consecutive readings that you could make before tagging the tool as non-compliant. Geez, it was never ending procedures.

You need to store dial type torque wrenches at the lowest settings or it can affect accuracy. A $120 split beam torque wench can pay for itself the 2nd or 3rd time you use it.
Rocket uses a digital SPLIT BEAM torque wrench in his videos.

wow that was crazy and the narrator should get an emmy.

Here's a video that shows an affordable test you can perform.

"https://youtu.be/XaqBA-xSGbc"

But then, what calibrates the luggage scale?

Miguel

exactly, what's saying the scale is spot on.

Use the luggage scale to lift several dumbbells to determine accuracy. If you belong to a gym you can use their dumbbells if you don't have any handy.

I have often time considered buying a click type , but just never think about it until I need a torque wrench. Then I get my old and trusty beam type , it still works every time I need it and for my home mechanic's use that's ok by me.

Breaknwind: Did you mean Robot at Scooterwest? And what's a digital SPLIT BEAM torque wrench?

My major problem with the analog beam torque wrenches is that sometimes when you're torquing, you can't see the scale. A conventional click-type torque wrench is all done by feel so it doesn't matter what the wrench orientation is relative to the operator. But honestly, I've never used an analog torque wrench so maybe I'm missing something.

Here are a a couple of older threads about torque wrenches and when to use/not-use anti-sieze and calibration. These will keep you busy for a while.

Best
Miguel

I gotta find myself an analog torque wrench. For now I deal with the cheapo HF one, which I do store at lowest setting, but occasionally forget. It is a cheaply made product with a screw base that locks and unlocks the scale handle. Unfortunately when you tighten it, it comes loose from the handle twisting cause the screw is locking based on the resistance of it against the handle instead of some constant stop. The Icon versions look better simply because they got rid of the poorly designed screw lock in favor of the self locking collar that you pull or push to adjust.

Old School. Nearly 40 years ago I went to buy a torque wrench at the auto parts store in town. Had intended to get one of those "pro" clicky type wrenches. Good ole Louis Cramer with his wisened Popeye face chewed on his cigar and glared at me from behind the counter. He said, "You don't want one of those. This is what you want." He handed me a split beam bendy type wrench. I'm still using that wrench...

I only recently bought a set of clicky wrenches when they were on sale for something like $20 at Harbor Freight. They are more convenient when you're working in an odd position and can't see to read the scale on the bending wrench. The 1/2" seems relatively accurate. I don't trust the 3/8" at all and prefer the bendy wrenches for the smaller more delicate tasks.

i always thought snap on had life time warranties

Only there hand tools, wrenches, sockets ratchets, ect. Does not include power tools or torque wrenches.

Not that it's practical for an individual, but woulda been interesting to get, say, 5 of each, and check for consistency.

I get the impression that the contractors that HF buys from change regularly. I've bought similar tools (metric and SAE sockets, for example) that were wildly different in finish, fit, and quality. So the torque wrench you get one well might be perfectly acceptable, and the one the next week highly inaccurate.

Might want to keep at least one cheap beam wrench around. Put an allen socket on your fancy click wrench, put a fitting socket on your beam type, and torque on it until the clicker clicks, see when that happens on the beam-type. While it won''t prove accuracy, it will at least check consistency.

Trouble with a clicker-type is, if/when it goes out of calibration (corrosion, lack of lubrication) you won't know until you strip the fastener. If a beam-type reads zero at rest, you are good to go.

Friend's faulty torque wrench stripped the exhaust studs right out of his scooter engine.
I never used a torque wrench on small fasteners....
.but then I only worked on VWs for 45 years, not Detroit iron.
O.S.

I bought this Tekton torque wrench from Amazon almost 2 years ago. It was pretty affordable and seems to be well made. And I keep it stored in its case set to zero. When using it, I generally set it about 20% below the stated torque for that fastener initially. Once I get it it click on that initial setting, I adjust to 10% below stated torque and give it a turn. Then one final adjustment just as close as possible without going over, and tighten the fastener one last time.

That might seem a bit fiddly, but it "exercises" the spring inside and ensures I don't over torque what I'm working on.

Also, NEVER use a torque wrench as a breaker bar! Get a proper breaker bar or slip a piece of pipe over your socket wrench.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00C5ZL0RU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Woah. Never knew HF had a new line. The problem was always their garbage warranty when the wrenches broke, but... this, w/ a coupon, is almost a good deal?

I only need a torque wrench for lug nuts.
I bought the HF one.
However, any click style needs to be reset to zero between uses, so it stays accurate. I'm too lazy to do that.
Someday I'll spring for the digital HF one.