Modern Vespa

I am used to hauling heavier, bulkier dual sport machines like the BMW 1200GS on trailers. As a result, I am surprised at how little Vespa riders tie down their scoots to prevent movement. This is not a criticism of any individual, merely an overall impression from what I have seen at Trailer and elsewhere on MV.
It would seem that riders rely on straps from the bar ends only, to a point somewhere either side of the front wheel roughly in line with the axle. This to me is an 'all the eggs in one basket' solution as the rear of the scoot is not secured and there is little (if any provision) to prevent toppling.

I do regard a front wheel chock as vital and securing the scoot in the chock to prevent it rolling back under acceleration is essential. The vector geometry of these two straps is normally rectangular, meaning that one is relying solely on the chock to fully secure the scoot against toppling. This may be fine when loading, but I question the wisdom when hauling for long distances.

When one has to brake hard in the towing vehicle, the mass of the scoot will cause the scoot to lift, rotating around the front axle and lifting the rear of the scoot. This could cause the rear wheel to shift position and move out of alignment with the front wheel. That will result in one bar end strap being loaded more than the other to counteract lean in the opposite direction as the rear wheel shift.

In my book, securing the rear wheel for both side-to-side movement and up-and-down movement is necessary. This could be done using a channel attached to the load bed, or by strapping the rear wheel down - preferably both. The rear shock lower mounting points are fairly accessible to attach a looped end strap for this purpose, or one could just run a strap through the spokes of the rear wheel. I have also seen a dealer transport scoots by lifting the rear to put the scoot on the main stand and tying down the rear wheel, but the concentrated point load at the main stand must then be considered and additional support provided on the load bed e.g. in the form of thicker plywood at that position to disperse the point load.

My greater concern is for toppling. The front tie downs will not act to resist toppling for a substantial arc of movement. To effectively counter toppling, a diagonal strap is needed. I have seen some riders strap from the rear hand holds, but this brings the strap into contact with the bodywork and chafing of the paintwork is a real possibility. The best I have seen on a conventional trailer is a strap from the bar end diagonally through the foot well to a tie-down point on the opposite side of the scoot. This will directly act to provide tension to resist any toppling movement.

Comments?

I've not hauled my Vespas any great lengths on trailers, but have pulled trailers of all sorts and lengths for most of my life. I generally subscribe to the this theory for anything on a trailer:

Should an accident occur and the trailer is hanging off the side of a bridge, everything on the trailer should still be in place. While clearly this is often literally impossible, I do have this mindset when strapping the load down. Overkill? Maybe, but chance favors the prepared mind.

Dave

Guilty. I used to tie down the front, the back, and both wheels when I used one of those hitch mounted ramps that carried the bike across the back of the truck. Over time and hundreds of miles I began to think this was overkill. If I use that carrier I strap the handlebars and the wheels to stop any side to side and all up and down motion. I use no straps on the rear. In fact, straps on the rear will harm the paint. Nowadays I use Canyon Dancers and the bed of my truck. Totally effective over hundreds of miles. One strap for each handlebar works fine.

I would never haul anything without at least one or even two redundant tie down methods.

The most force a bike (or anything else) is likely to encounter under normal driving circumstances is forward during braking. A sturdy wheel chock takes care of that nicely. I like to strap the front wheel to the chock so it doesn't bounce out.

I use Canyon Dancers on the handlebars with crossed straps like Fudmucker mentioned. I also put a pair of straps from the handlebars going forward pulling the bike into the chock.

I run straps through the rear wheel to the sides to keep the back from sliding sideways and one more pair of straps from the seat handrails. My trailer is 4ft wide and I have never had a problem with the straps rubbing the body. If you were hauling two it could be an issue.

Don't chinch the straps to the handlebars or handrail too tight and leave the center stand up so the suspension on the bike can give with the bumps in the road.

It's better to use carabineers on the straps instead of hooks so they don't fall off.

Don't forget to check in the tire pressure before every trip.

I try to make it so that if I have a flat or I have to swerve suddenly it will be OK.

Realized this is about trailers...duh. When I've used an actual trailer I screwed down 2 pieces of 2x4 to run the front wheel between. Then strapped down the handlebars. Trailers are bouncier so I did find the rear wheel was not where I put it when I started. Some straps run off the rear grab handle would have prevented that side to side bouncing and could be placed far enough lateral to the bike to prevent paint damage.

Canyon dancers, Condor chock and straps from the grab bar. We have a rail trailer so the rear tire can't slide when strapped down. . The only time my scoot has ever fallen over was when a tow truck driver strapped the rear through the tire and had it on the center stand while I was paying the hotel bill. After that I supervise any tow truck driver loading my scoot. Never haul it on the center stand.

This is how I tie down my MP3's. Tie down points for the MP3/Fuoco I never use the handle bars and never never never tie it down on the center stand.

I'm interested to know more about how you get the machine up and in to the truck bed .

I'm planning on going to a few rally's this summer . Need to decide if I'm better off with a U-Haul rental or getting my Vespa up into the truck bed.
Toyota Tacoma Pre Runner , it's pretty high.

I have looked at several types of loading ramps but wonder how you break down the ramps and stow them in the bed. ?
Do you have the triple wide ramps and just ride up and pray you don't topple over and can stop ok. ??
Thanks. Doug

Hi Doug,

I no longer have a pickup, so I sold the ramps. Mine were a Harbor Freight ramp that folded in the middle, making it easy to store the ramp in the bed of the truck. That ramp was JUST wide enough to be able to walk the scoot up. It was also helpful to load in a spot where I could use the curb as a highpoint for loading (less steep).

We haul our scoots in a cargo trailer. Captive chocks that hold the front wheel in place; straps run forward from the grips. Rear wheels strapped down to prevent "hopping" or side to side movement. We have towed thousands of miles with this method, with no issues.

The HF chocks are a knockoff of the Condor style; been using those for about 10 years now, with motorcycles and different size scoots. Can't beat 'em for the price.

https://www.harborfreight.com/1800-lb-capacity-motorcycle-standwheel-chock-61670.html



I've used that chock on its own in the back of a pickup, and with the cross-ways support removed and through-bolted down in the trailer.

No No No! Don't try to ride up!

Get help if you need it. It helps to back the truck up to a berm or slope so the ramp is less steep. Be sure to tie the ramp to the truck so it can't slip off.

I have a Ford Explorer Sport Trac that has a very short bed but I'm able to get my Zuma in. My ramp is a folding, six foot one that fits in the bed along side the scooter. It could be better if it was longer, but with loading from sloping ground I can load the scooter by myself.

Canyon dancers, Condor chock, channel, and rear wheel tie down. I have equipped a light trailer so it will handle two scooters. I load on a ramp which stows under the trailer. Has all worked fine so far.

CONDOR SCC-4000 Scooter Chock -

thanks Doug

Thank's Doug

Me exactly. I lost faith in hooks on tiedowns on my first adventure when I hit a rather large bump and one disengaged. Got locking links, slowly transitioned to carabiners due to ease. I've sawn the hooks off to get them out of the way....

I used 4 12"x 2" boards with ramp kits on them laid out next to each other and road it into the bed. Think they were 10' long as the truck sat little higher than stock.

The few times I had to "trailer" my Vespa, most of them were in the bed of a pickup. The truck in question had a deck rail system with movable tie-down points.
1: Before starting, I put a piece of 4x4 or bigger lumber, around 6-12" long, at the front of the bed to keep the fender from rubbing on the sidewall. I also put the straps and Canyon Dancer in the front of the bed where I could reach them sitting on the scooter.
2: I used a pair of 7-foot ramps that were strapped to the bumper or frame to get into the bed: one for me to walk up, one for the scooter. I took the risk of using the throttle while covering the brakes so the scooter "walked" itself, but mainly because I always was loading solo. I had accepted beforehand that if anything went seriously wrong, I would have to let the scooter fall.
3: Walk scooter into truck bed, use one foot to fine-tune the position of the piece of lumber, then sit on saddle so I didn't have to think so much about balance. Put Canyon Dancer on, attach strap on one side, tighten enough that scooter leans a little without me holding it up. Oh, and I used pull-tension motorcycle straps on the front, not ratcheting straps...keeps you from over-compressing the front suspension.
4: Attach other front strap, sit back on saddle to compress front suspension, tighten firmly until bike seems solid and is centered upright.
5: If I had 3 straps total, I'd run one through and around the back wheel and tighten. Keeps the rear in place. If I had 4 straps total, I'd grab a couple rags and attach to the passenger grab bars with a rag between the hook and paint. Tighten until rear suspension is mildly-to-moderately compressed.
6: Stand next to secured scooter and proceed to try to not quite shake the...stuffing out of it. Tighten up any discovered slack in the lines and tie off or otherwise secure loose strap ends so they don't flap in the wind and damage something.
Drive half a mile to a mile, pull over, repeat 6.

I'd strap the ramps against one sidewall of the truck bed. S...tuffing shake test at both intervals to make sure it was also secure.


Edit to add: ...Crap, I knew I'd forget something.
I positioned the tie-down anchors in front and behind where I was attaching them. The front would pull the scooter towards the front of the truck and down. The rearwards would pull back and down. Both sets were on the siderails, so they also pulled outwards...and down.
Starting and stopping are forwards and backwards momentum...curves are sideways tipping momentum. That's where the stuffing shake test becomes important.

If you're riding or power loading the scooter, make sure the ABS is turned off. If not, you can get an unexpected stall and surge while going up the ramp. Been there.

B

ABS or ARS?
Wondering if ABS would kick in if you were riding it up the ramp while holding the brake lever would cause that. Didn't think ABS could effect motor though.

lol. Good catch. My comment should have read ARS. I was driving my GTS up the steel ramp of a U-Haul MC trailer. The rear tire slipped and power to wheel stalled causing the scoot to roll back momentarily. Throttle was still powered and then jumped forward and ASR kicked in again. Repeat. Definitely was not expecting that with something so routine. Yes, the ramp was slightly wet with the early morning humidity.

Belt an suspenders. I tie down everything. Front wheel, back wheel, triple tree, rear suspension wherever I can get to it. Seldom put anything on the handlebars as it can cause issues.

I use normal ratchet straps with hooks, but I zip tie the hooks to the anchor points. That way if something shifts and a strap goes slack, it can't come completely undone.

Canyon Dancers in front with non-ratchet tie downs and non-ratchet tie downs attached with soft loops to the luggage rack and rear corners of the trailer. Four points of contact and angled down and away to the corners. Compress the suspension slightly.

I like the non ratchet tie downs for bikes so I don't overdo things.

I prefer to rent motorcycle specific trailers from U-haul for their low load height and built in ramps. If a buyer shows up with a pickup, we back it into the dip in my driveway to reduce the bed height, and I use an 8' aluminum ramp attached with straps to the bed of the truck so it can't slip, plus a short stepladder so I can walk the bike up the ramp from the side while the new owner helps with muscle.

Don't ride up a ramp unless you want to end up on America's Funniest Videos someday.

When I carried motorcycles I used up to eight straps.
Soft hooks or Canyon Dancers on the bars with ratchet straps.
Cam lock straps on the back to foot pegs or frame spots. If nothing available, I folded a towel over the seat and strapped over that.
My goal was that 4 straps went left and right, while 4 straps went forward and back.
It didn't move.
Never use the side stand or center stand.

I bought one of these brilliant solutions to the problem of loading a PTW on your own. It is made in Johannesburg, South Africa and mounts the suspension on a sub-frame that lifts above the load bed. That in turn lowers the load bed so you can ride straight on. If you unhook first, it is virtually flat. The load bed has plenty of eye bolts for tie down straps and you can add your own as you wish.

A single strap from the front axle to the wheel chock in front, a strap over the back wheel and a diagonal strap to either side from the frame secures even the heaviest of DS bikes. My Vespa uses bar straps diagonally forwards and a strap over the back wheel. Eazy-peazy.

(PS: search 2Mtrailers.co.za if you want to see more.
They offer 2-bike and 3-bike versions too.)

DandyDoug
Here's the ramp I use. Just a single and it's quite easy to guide the bike up. Just measured it, it's about 80" from the base to the extensions that rest on the tailgate and has a slight bow. It's longer than my bed but so is the bike. I use one strap to secure it so it doesn't slide out before I get where I'm going. Canyon Dancers with bar end weights removed and a couple straps to the tie down points at the front of the bed and I'm secure.

I use 2 methods for hauling w my truck.
1. A condor chock mounted to plywood that rests in the slots of the bed liner. Soft loops & straps to each corner of the bed. I use a ramp to get the scoot in/out of the bed. Here in NC it's not hard to find some incline to help take some angle out of the ramp
2. VersaHaul
3. Combo





DandyDoug
We aren't that far apart, if you would like to borrow the VersaHaul for a weekend to test it out you are welcome to do that.

Yes zip ties on the hooks is a very good idea. I don't like the idea of using canyon dancers or using the handlebar for a tie down. Puts stress on the steering tube.

The Condor scooter chock I use holds the scooter in place. The canyon dancers are used just to prevent too much swaying. I've seen some people just use the chock but I prefer a little cross strapping and I strap the front tire to the chock so a big bump can't accidentally dislodge it.

FYI:
When using tie downs put bungee cords between the hooks to prevent them from coming off over bumps. They work like rubber bands to prevent any slack in the tie down.

I was always taught that when securing a load, such as a PTW into a wheel chock, to make sure that ALL straps (with the minimum being four) are pulling the machine forward and into the chock. If the rear straps are pulling rearward and something unexpected happens up front, the PTW can be pulled out of the chocks and have a whoopsie.

Also, having the anchoring end of the straps secured well-forward of the PTW attachment points will pay dividends in achieving stability.

We will always tie a simple cord through the lead section of the front wheel, and around the vertical member of the chock, so as to prevent it from jumping out of the track during maniacal driving maneuvers. These usually happen somewhere in Texas.....

I also do that.

TIP:
Because tie-down straps are different lengths, it is often a problem to find on long enough for the task without rolling them all out to see which one fits. I mark the tongue of the strap on both sides using a permanent marker indicating the total length. I roll straps up with the ratchet or cam in the centre, so the length shows on the outside of the roll. I can then select the right length without having to unroll each one to see if it is long enough. If for any reason you cut it shorter (e.g. damaged or worn section) remeasure it and mark with the new overall length.