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Quote:
Glad I found this thread. Recently joined after picking up a '65 VBB 150 (many other 2t's including Lambretta, Vespa Mopeds, etc) and it's good to follow along a proper resto.

Sadly, my frame is MUCH rougher than yours, so I am trying to source a replacement, or if need be some replacement panels to rebuild my chassis.

Watching!
Welcome to the forum!
I wont be doing much in the way of body work on this one... not in my wheelhouse. Shoot, I am a total hack mechanic. (I've just done a few engine rebuilds.)

There are a ton of crazy talented folks around though. For bodywork one recent thread comes to mind...

bodywork - over my head

Good luck, and post up your progress in a thread!
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sdjohn wrote:
that's pretty cool, do you think Gick could do that for an allstate fork? nice looking setup.
I suspect he could probably figure something out.
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Birdsnest wrote:
sdjohn wrote:
that's pretty cool, do you think Gick could do that for an allstate fork? nice looking setup.
I suspect he could probably figure something out.
Gickspeed specializes in Allstates and Widebody's. He can definitely hook you up.
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While I am waiting on the post man to deliver a new selector bearing. All that info and learning is here:
Method for seating rollers in Selector bearing

... I did the gas tank bugaloo today.

I have stopped using a nuts and bolts and switched to black rocks (the kind you see in gardens) as the
abrasive. Seems much more effective. Did water and about a tablespoon of naval jelly. Drained followed by degreaser/soap and water.

Worked a charm.

Before -
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After-
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Next thing that needs sorting are the two farmer bodge holes.

The first one is (or will be) underneath the center mat. Cheap fix would be to grind down the two razor sharp tetnus corners... seriously they are waiting to stab through some skin or the center-mat at the very least.

The other bodge is tougher. It too has some sharp ass edges... but with no center-mat to cover it up, I wonder if I should drop some shackles to get it welded closed?
Thoughts?
Center-mat should cover this.
Center-mat should cover this.
Weld it closed? Or?
Weld it closed? Or?
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Birdsnest wrote:
.......
I wonder if I should drop some shackles to get it welded closed?
Thoughts?
Yeah, I would. In for a dime, in for a dollar if you want it right so you can forget about it and focus on the rest, mostly all DIY, right?
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I don't weld or have a welder... but I have a friend of a friend that will do a professional job for a fair price.

We will see...
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If you wanted to home roll that one - but you don't weld - you could go with panel adhesive. Been some talk on here of late - and I think SoCal has used at some point with very nice results. You might ask him to lead the way. I imagine you could do it pretty seamlessly - think fancy JB weld for steel.

Just a thought.
-CM
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Thanks! Will do a search and see what it turns up.
-----

Today after work was all about rusted out slotted screws.

Started out with 8.
Down to 2. One on each side of course.

Added some penetrant and will let it it sit overnight...
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Having just shared your rusty screw experience I've been mulling over better methods of fixing the mat in place. Screwing anything into steel panels inevitably sets the clock running on when the rust will appear...
I've trimmed the edge detail off the mat (chewed up anyway) and think I'll go the bonding route. Probably a sheet of double-sided tape or contact adhesive. Double-sided has the advantage of being easier to soak off with solvent if/when removal is necessary. Fits well into the de-chroming I'm looking for.
Anyone tried the same?
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Edges would be my only concern in that the chrome rails help keep the mat from ripping and tearing.

My rails also need to come off to help accommodate some welding.
---

Still at 6 down with 2 to go...
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bodgemaster
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Got all of mine out, thankfully.

Soaked em in Evaporust for a couple of days, then PB Blaster.
Used Vice Grips on the head of the screws and turned them out ~ s l o w l y ~

The chrome strips are essential unless you go full bodge and use a P style mat, which IMO looks terrible on pre-P scoots.
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Center mat strips are finally off. *small victory dance, followed by shot of bourbon*

After a ton of effort on the last two screws, I ended up using a cut off wheel to take the heads flush with the frame. Sigh. It's done and I suspect the new screw will drive out the old (Or i will drill it out.)

Floor rails are off on the port side, rust remediation mostly complete there. Also got the brake pedal switch (broken at the bottom) off after another battle with a rusted screw. The lower one was a mofo. (So happy to be almost done with all the rust.)

Ready now to go get the holes welded up. Hopefully Wednesday or Friday.

My paint guy did me a huge solid. He digs that I do weirdo scooters and spent a ton of time doing a PPG match. We had the code but the first test based on the 710 code was really blue in comparison . He worked his magic and I shot a test piece yesterday. I could not be happier with the match. Now, I'm shooting the touch up spots (just where the rust had to be addressed) with my old airbrushes so I need to do a ton of practice and work on the right ratios of paint/acetone. The airbrushes are great for detail, but the paint has to be thinned pretty well or it gums up the needle.
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Magic! Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
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Closed up the extra holes...
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Nice bit of welding done there.
That and the paint feels like a turning point on this one coming back to life!
You may have to change the title of this thing.
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Thanks. He did a good job at a fair price.

Today I'm trying to reclaim the rims from ye old rust monster while I wait for The previously mentioned selector bearing to be delivered.

Been to humid and wet to paint the floor the last few days so the wheels are the only progress this weekend.

Before and after pics when I get to a computer.

For now... a 1961 Pirelli.
I would suspect original to the scoot.
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one done one to go...
Old friend  Rusty
Old friend Rusty
Converting with phosphoric acid
Converting with phosphoric acid
Mat black the f@*#er
Mat black the f@*#er
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In the world of easy wins....
(I was due for one.)
The rear brake pedal on these is typically a pain in all 9 assholes (Greasyism) to remove. I expected it to be another rusted out shitshow. But, with a touch of penetrant and some needle nose it came out on the first try. Yep yep. *cracks beer*
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Cleaning up nicely , I'm amazed how good that Italy made tire looks.
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If it had ANY tread I might run it as a spare for decoration. Just a cool wall hanger though
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I'd just slather enough coats of Armorall to fill all the cracks in the rubber, and mount it back up on the front end!



Seriously though, with the welding and touch up paint, it's coming along very nicely. It will definitely be a winner for sure!
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Long delay.... shipping disasters and more.... (I may or may not have knocked a garage lower-cabinet off it's IKEA hangers while seating a bearing.) Ahem.

First, the BGM Gear selector bearing - don't bother. It's supposed to be a fancy version of the 3-part that you can't drift into place. It didn't even make it from the packing to the workbench before the cage, race, and all 14 rollers were separated. I'm sure the look on my face was something to see.

Luckily, Diamond Dave had already put another in the the post due to the aforementioned shipping gongshow. Thanks to Scooter Mercato we were back at it Sunday morning. *doffs cap in the direction of Georgia*

Fly side is pretty much done.
Cush drive rebuilt and seated on the clutch side.

And more paint prep done.

Progress.
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So pirdy
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You can come and clean cases for me anytime!

I'll handle the bearing installs tho.



-g
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greasy125 wrote:
You can come and clean cases for me anytime!
I'll handle the bearing installs tho.
Yeah, yeah. Razz emoticon

OK, so some progress to report. (Finally.)
Had another round a fussing and fighting with the crank. Heated the case (bearings already on crank) and it was never even close to seating. Then went with the frozen crank and heated case and, again... it was never gonna seat.

Decided to pull it in after consulting the Bearing Master. I found a suitable plate of steel and modified it so I wouldn't fuck up the seal. Worked a charm.
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Seated.
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After all the crap this rebuild has thrown at me I was certain the fly side was gonna be a bitch and fight me for every mm. But after heating iup the case it dropped on with no problem. Felt good to finally get an easy win!

...and as much as I wanted to keep grinding in the garage. It's like 95f and 95% humidity hear in TX... so it's time for a drink and a ride. Or a ride and a drink(s).

Cheers.
olé
olé
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Delighted one of the suggested methods of engagement worked! And for the fly side to just drop on was a big win.

But check you out trucking it along!

Pour yourself a tall one and revel in victory!

Now stop slacking and get after that paint!!

-g
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Oh, so that's how you pull it in without completely f*&king up a half dozen seals. Who knew?!
New trick for me.
Awesome.

Cocktails are gonna taste 2x as sweet after the cases came together like that.
Lookin good!
Enjoy!
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Johnny Two Tone
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how'd you get those cases looking so good? Nice work on pulling that crank in.

I'm getting the jones again to get a VBB, you are making me jealous. 8)
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sdjohn wrote:
how'd you get those cases looking so good? Nice work on pulling that crank in.

I'm getting the jones again to get a VBB, you are making me jealous. 8)
Just don't get one as roached out and rusted as this old girl was.
I've ridden a few but never owned one and have always wanted to roll on some 8s. Figure with the electronic ignitions and some minor upgrades there is no reason not too ride one these days. Excited to be doing this one for sure.

Cases were vapor blasted. Cost me a fiddy...but it was worth it to get a real good look at the cases and make sure they were solid.

Question For the knowledgeable folk-
SoCal recently posted about his GL steering stops being FUBAR. What are they supposed to look like in a VNB circa 63?

Pic below is what I got. Aside from the rust does that look "normal"?

TIA
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NM
After consulting the SS manual It matches up and looks normal. Crusty... but normal.
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bodgemaster
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Quote:
What are they supposed to look like in a VNB circa 63?
Easy way to test. With the frame on its back, drop the fork in and turn it side to side as far as it will go. Does it stop about the same place in both directions?
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Right side turned out better than the left. There was more pitting on the left side and I should have used some filler. But overall I am pretty stoked.

Flattening the gloss with Talc was a pretty impactful step. It really started to blend at that point. I still need to feather in the transitions, but once the center mat and rails are back in it'll look pretty good from 5 feet or at 5 mph.

Onwards...
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⚠️ Last edited by Birdsnest on UTC; edited 1 time
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Well done, now you just need some rails.
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Nedminder
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Awesome.
Also: set your idle to run no slower than 5mph.
perfect!
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Baby steps his week...

Any vendor out there that has a brass bushing for a clutch rebuild? I am a buyer. Waiting on mail order for a 4.00 part to finish the engine is killing me.... arrrrgghhhhh.

OK. rear brake pedal stuff was posted about elsewhere:
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post2411815#2411815

Then, I started working on the headset. The OG paint was too roached to do touch up so I stripped it back to zero and then shot it with primer. It was too humid here to shoot the top coats so we will sand and leave it for another day.
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Next up was the wiring harness. I have to say it seems like the opening/turn in the center channel in a VNB4T is painfully small. (I almost understand why the old farmer cut into the center channel... almost.) I don't recall the previous harness I ran in a Primavera being nearly so difficult?

To get it done I ran a fish from the horn opening to the back and then pulled the harness through. Then I reran a fish from the headset down to the horn cast to run it up.

Lots of pushing and pulling and requisite cussing before we got it through...

Onwards....
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