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To early to drink?


Went to pull the flywheel looking for the missing airbox screw (see previous post... was just being super cautious.) About half way off the fly wheel nut got tight again. Weird. Tightened it back up and hit it with some penetrant. Again about halfway off it started to feel tight and like a cro-mag I gave it a little muscle... it gave and came off but it didn't feel right.

Cut through like butter and the end of it sheared in the fly nut. Went on fine. Torqued to spec. No idea how it got cross threaded or much less how it sheared given that I wasnt on it with a breaker bar or anything.

So close to being done and now so far...

F#@k and Me.
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79p200e 66smallstate 85pk50xl 84p125ets 63GL
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Re: snatching defeat from the jaws of victory.
Birdsnest wrote:
To early to drink?

No, definitely not.

What the...!!!???? How in the world....?
On the plus side, good it got sorted in the garage than on the road when it let go.

Man, that sux!! Sorry to see that when the finish line is in sight.

Stop, sit down, crack a cold one, and chill for a bit...
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Molto Verboso
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oh man sorry to see that hope you can get an exchange on that
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bodgemaster
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Go ahead, have a drink. Normally things like this happen after we've already had a few.
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Mannn... what a kick in the dick.

I'll raise one with ya in solidarity.

-g
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Ahh crap, that there is some bad luck.
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I just had one for you, that sucks.
Birdsnest wrote:
To early to drink?


Went to pull the flywheel looking for the missing airbox screw (see previous post... was just being super cautious.) About half way off the fly wheel nut got tight again. Weird. Tightened it back up and hit it with some penetrant. Again about halfway off it started to feel tight and like a cro-mag I gave it a little muscle... it gave and came off but it didn't feel right.

Cut through like butter and the end of it sheared in the fly nut. Went on fine. Torqued to spec. No idea how it got cross threaded or much less how it sheared given that I wasnt on it with a breaker bar or anything.

So close to being done and now so far...

F#@k and Me.
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Well... if you gotta eat a shit sandwich... take big bites.
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dang...
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Oh - that sucks.
Any chance the woodruff key was an extra tight fit?
So frustrating.
That dark circle in the pic below looks a little suspect.
If you feel like posting another more in focus - perhaps we can see what happened.
If you don't - I don't blame ya.
Sorry man.
PIA.
Any chance that dark spot sits just below the woodruff key area on the crank portion/ the break occurred right at the end of the key slot?
Any chance that dark spot sits just below the woodruff key area on the crank portion/ the break occurred right at the end of the key slot?
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Interesting.

I had no issue with placing the woodruff key. Let me investigate and take a few more pics...

Was yammering with G and thought: I had pulled the crank into the flywheel side with a home made plate to protect the fly side seal. I wonder if the crank was just a mm off as it sat in the clutch side and the torque that the puller made pulling it straight into the flyside created a weak spot?
Just a spitball.

Pics soon(ish)
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My best guess is a manufacturing defect. It came apart when you were loosening it.

On tightening, you'd pull threads before snapping the snout.

Just throwing around WAG's

-g
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Close ups.
woody and dark spot in line.
woody and dark spot in line.
threads look OK,
threads look OK,
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Well - that dark spot is totally suspect.
You had a defective crank shaft.
Where its darker- it was likely already broken.
When you unscrewed it - it flexed and the threads became un-aligned - making it hard unscrew - and cracking the rest of the way.

No way you caused that.
I would send pics - and point out the dark spot - and that it was un-used.
I would also note it occurred while unscrewing.
And ask them to kindly send you a new one...
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charlieman22 wrote:
Well - that dark spot is totally suspect.
You had a defective crank shaft.
Where its darker- it was likely already broken.
When you unscrewed it - it flexed and the threads became un-aligned - making it hard unscrew - and cracking the rest of the way.

No way you caused that.
I would send pics - and point out the dark spot - and that it was un-used.
I would also note it occurred while unscrewing.
And ask them to kindly send you a new one...
100% this.

Also, bringing it off. Running it on and over torquing it? Okay. But pulling it off with a ratchet? Not a breaker bar with a pipe or the rattle gun?

Nah man. That's defective. That dark spot is the tell tale sign.

-g
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Birdsnest wrote:
I had pulled the crank into the flywheel side with a home made plate to protect the fly side seal. I wonder if the crank was just a mm off as it sat in the clutch side and the torque that the puller made pulling it straight into the flyside created a weak spot?
Just a spitball.
Quoting myself... damn these are tough times! Razz emoticon

The above is a totally bunk theory for many reasons but most of all I
just remembered -- I pulled in the clutch side not the fly side. Case dropped onto the fly smooth and easy. FWIW.
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Tho its tough to see clearly - likely cause would be damage when they cut the threads. does the discoloration go out to the of V groove of the thread?

That discoloration on both the crank and nut means it was broken for some time while still looking fine on the outside. Like rings in a tree - if just broke - it would all be the same color.

If it had been exposed to the elements at all - there would have been some corrosion there.

Sorry for the set back - that truly does suck.
Let us know if you get any love on a return.
Oh - and what brand of crank is it if that's a legit question.
Just curious.
Tks.
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Thx for your input my friend.

On the sheared bit stuck inside the fly nut, the discolored spot goes to the edge of the threads for sure. Hard to tell on the remaining threads of the shaft.

Crank is a Tameni.

Onwards.
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New crank came in via USPS and we dropped the engine again, split the cases (2 times!) and reinstalled..

After I closed up the case on the new crank I realized the kick start gear wasn't engaging!?!?! Opened the case back up and installed the spare KS gear I had. All good in the noodlehood.

3rd times a charm... *knocks wood*
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Quote:
After I closed up the case on the new crank I realized the kick start gear wasn't engaging!?!?! Opened the case back up and installed the spare KS gear I had.
Hahahaha!
Been there.
I think its like childbirth for women.
We don't remember the pain when its over.

Looking shinny and promising again.
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Parts ID help.

Tail light reassembly -

Found this little metal cone ratting loose inside and can't figure out where it goes from the parts diagram I have.

Anybody have some knowledge to share.

TIA
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Hooked
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That metal cone looks like one end of a two ended of a bulb. The type that is a side light usually.
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Part 11907 on your diagram.
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L4NFF wrote:
That metal cone looks like one end of a two ended of a bulb. The type that is a side light usually.
Ha!
There ya go.

Thanks!
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Little weirdness to sort

New crank seems fine... until I put the flywheel on. As soon as you put some torque on the nut it seems to bind up the crank. Becomes almost impossible to turn?

I'm at a bit of a loss.

Any and all help appreciated.
TIA
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Do you have a TPI thread gauge? I'd double check the thread pitch on both the crank and nut before you go any further.
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whodatschrome wrote:
Do you have a TPI thread gauge? I'd double check the thread pitch on both the crank and nut before you go any further.
All good
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I wish I had some information that would help you, I'm just here for moral support. But from you're description of the problem it sounds like the crank is somehow pulled too hard toward the clutch side and is struggling with being centered once the flywheel is bolted down.
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Well - its likely to be one of three things I would think.
The simplest of which would be that the flywheel is interfering with something.
More complicated would be the crank is moving and binding in some fashion with the internal components or the clutch side.

If now one with the same experience pipes up - here is what I would do.
Start with the simplest.
1. Remove the clutch and torque the crank. Does it free it up?
2. Remove the stator and do the same - is flywheel interfering with the electronics? Can you use some soldier to determine that you still have clearance between flywheel and key components?
3. Failing 1 & 2, pull the cylinder off and see what's happening at crank webs when you torque - can you identify any interference with a flashlight down there?

Hope helpful.
Keep us posted!
-CM
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Sounds like flywheel is binding and maybe the crank needs to move tighter into the flyside half of the case. You can pull it in snug with a short piece of pipe, a fat washer and your nut. But first look in the flywheel and on the stator to see if anything is rubbing. Also at this point leave the clutch cover off so you can check both ends, rotate the motor more easily while testing , etc.
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bodgemaster
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Nine times out of 10 that kind of binding is caused by the flywheel not being square on the crank, i.e., not on the woodruff key.

Try putting the flywheel on without the woodruff. Does it bind?
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Thanks for all the replies y'all!

I *think* it may be sorted and I think it was a combination of two issues above.
I think V was right in that the flyside wasn't seated all the way. I took off the stator and just put the flywheel on and torqued it up. Bound.

Used a homaade plate and puller to seat the crank further. Reattached the flywheel after and torqued it up again and the crank spun freely. Yay. (almost)

Then, I put the stator back on and torqued in the flywheel and.....bound again. CM was also correct there is some interference there. I noticed that the flytech stator was sitting just a touch higher on the upper right side by the 2 o'clock mounting screw. To get it flush I couldn't make the timing marks line up though. So, I needed to grind some on the stator and reattach everything to confirm that all is sorted.

May head back out after the heat of the day lets up some. Will update.

Again, thanks guys! This old broad just fights and argues every single step of the way, Been a heck of a learning experience for sure.
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And, yes... Sorted.

Time to day drink.
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Happenings-

Cabled
Wires in with spark
(Still need to wire lights.)

Question for the cognoscenti -
What's a good exhaust? I had read that the super 150 exhausts were a great fit and decent with the 177
Jug. But mine has zero clearance to the back wheel. None. :-/

Any suggestions on a better fitting option appreciated.
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Molto Verboso
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Polini Box
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bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x2), 74 Primavera (x2), 79 P200, 06 Fly 150
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I'm curious how people are mounting the Polini box and other aftermarket exhausts on older scoots like this with a short exhaust bolt that doesn't pass through the case.

Are you cutting off the back flange?
Drilling through the case and using a long bolt?
Or some other technique?

Inquiring minds want to know.
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Molto Verboso
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SoCalGuy wrote:
I'm curious how people are mounting the Polini box and other aftermarket exhausts on older scoots like this with a short exhaust bolt that doesn't pass through the case.

Are you cutting off the back flange?
Drilling through the case and using a long bolt?
Or some other technique?

Inquiring minds want to know.
I have cut the rear flange with captive nut OFF on a BGM Big Box for my GL and just used the remaining flange for original bolt.

More recently on a Polini box I cut the captive nut off, bent the rear flange then added some material to join it and welded to forward flange thinking it might add something. Also added a header spring hook on two different Polini's, glad I did.

This shows the Polini box with mods and ceramic coating on my Bajaj

my BLUE Bajaj fitting 60mm Crankshaft & Kytronic (Page 4)
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79 P200E (Ruby), 62 Allstate (B-62)
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I put the SR-150 from Mercato on B-62. It fits - OK - and I only used the one tab to attach.
Here is what I've done, just through the one attachment. So far so good. And the copper piece is just to deflect the exhaust out and away. JBWeld, not shoegoo. Ha!
Here is what I've done, just through the one attachment. So far so good. And the copper piece is just to deflect the exhaust out and away. JBWeld, not shoegoo. Ha!
The other side to show clearance. It's not all tight to the frame for clearance, but it works...
The other side to show clearance. It's not all tight to the frame for clearance, but it works...
OP
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Thanks for the input folks!
Ended up ordering the regular old vbb box. I know , I know... boring. But, with the pinasco ignition and jug I figure shooting for "reliable and capable in the city" is a good target.

Finished up the last bit of rust mitigation and some paint touch up today. All thats left for cosmetics now are the aluminum trim pieces on the mudguard and engine side cowl.

As soon as the bulbs and the exhaust arrive we will try and kick it over.

Close enough to taste it...
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Idiot prevention...
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