Modern Vespa

Getting an Injection warning light on the GTS. Dealer replaced the computer with a new one, checked the injection unit, and that didn't fix the problem. They suspect a short. Anybody have any experience with this? What short would cause this? What leads coming into the computer could give this?

In cars, the most common connection problem or fault giving the check engine signal, is the oxygen sensor. Did they check it?

when does the light come on? Does it happen when your idling? Engine hot?

Was it wet out?

My light came on just once and I blew it off cause it went away. Then I started blowing Red #10 fuses, which are for the fuel injector. I'm gonna quote myself, to show what sloved the problem. The wire harness turns on a very sharp acute angle to plug into the injector. This created stress on part#6389495, which caused it to separate. Tikka (Tom) provided me with some zip-ties which helped me to get home from the Solerunners Rally, and a few modern scooterists kicked me some #10 Fuses, cause if I hit a good bump, the injector still shorted.

Reroute the wire so it doesn't have as much stress making that turn.

Maybe this even isn't it?

Oh and tell the dealer to check the dealer forum. This topic has been talked about there. Your not the first it happened to.

-Vinny

ps Carry spare fuses!

Dealer replaced the Lambda probe (o2 sensor), and that didn't fix it. The light comes on 5 seconds after it goes off to start it, whether you start it or not.
I should also mention that this is affecting the fan as well. The fan has taken to staying on all the time.

Is the fan on with the key off? Or only with key on?

Computer controlled cars have a limp home mode for when a sensor is screwed up, or there is a computer failure. The timing would go to a fixed value, the idle speed would increase, and the fan would come on. It could still be a sensor problem.

I got the same light when I had a short on my fan/they "fixed" the short, light still came on. FIrst symptom was fan would stay on, then wouldn't come on after they fixed the short. Put it on their diagnostic device, it said; "battery" they reset it and no light....for a little while.

I took my GTS to a rally in San Antonio, light came on. I rode it with no fan. Then when I got home took it all apart and found a screw had been lodged in the fan housing preventing the fan from turning! I no longer go to the same dealer.

Recently light came on again. I hooked it up to my diagnostic system-thank you Motorsports and it indicated a shorted wire. I reset the DTC and no light so far. The dealer has a Interface Wiring device. They can hook this up to the system and determine where the short is.

I am holding my breath, waiting for my light to come on. I have blown no fuses yet and the light isn't coming on...yet.

Good luck! I hope the scooter is still under warranty. Ask the dealer to run the checks listed in the shop manual. Using the Interface wiring device and they should be able to track to down.

There are relays that might be bad as well. Two in the front, under the horn cover and, I think, one under the seat. Check these using an ohm meter?

Good luck and I'll keep you posted as just my little reset is still effective.

I don't know if this thread would have any relevance for this problem:

GTS250 Electrical fire
Dave

That sounds like the big short is upstream of even the main fuse, but it's something to look for for sure. That's UGLY.

GTS, here's the test I just PMed to you; seemed good to have it out here as well:

That means the relay is getting pulled in even though the control is not calling for fan. Did you happen to hear or feel a click from the relay as it came out of the socket (key on)? The control works by completing the relay coil circuit to ground. A short between ground, and the wire connecting the coil to the ECU, would also complete the circuit and pull in the relay causing the fan to run full time. That would also short ECU pin 8 to ground, which the ECU would not expect to see; I wouldn't be a bit surprised if that would cause the error light to come on.

The relay socket has 4 wires - 2 lighter gauge and 2 heavier gauge. The heavy wires are for the fan main current; the light wires are to the relay coil. With the relay removed and the key off, put one ohmmeter probe to ground, and the other probe to one of the light wires, then to the other wire. There should be no continuity at either wire. If you do see continuity, you're looking at the short.

From there it would be a matter of visually tracing that wire from the relay socket terminal all the way to the control in the engine compartment - not an easy job. You'll probably have to remove the glove box panel behind the leg shield to trace the harness. Look for pinching, bare metal clamps cutting into insulation, stray wire strand whiskers sticking out of terminals - any kind of exposed conductor that could be touching the chassis.

Fan runs only with the ignition on. I'll check those suggestions. Thanks.