The fork you have is for the later 1-piece headsets. The earlier split headsets have the headset bolt entering on the side. You may be able to get away with removing material off your fork to make it work—-but be careful here.
The earlier chassis' would have come with loose bearings.
Is that some type of metal "repair" on the chassis I see in earlier photo? If so, best to have it TIG welded up-best and correct approach. Check to make sure the steering stops are in the correct position to stop the fork from turning so much the headset hits the chassis. This is the most common reason why these legshields get torn up.
The piece of metal around the shifter cables only serves one purpose-to royaly piss anyone off attempting to remove said cables. I do a lot of things by the book but this is one I pass on.
I use USA made rubber fuel line.
Yes it has the dreaded JBWeld. I'm going to tackle that when I paint it in the future. Steering stops are good.
I thought this type of fuel line was ethanol resistant. Oh well. I'll grab one soon.
About 15 seconds with the angle grinder and we're good to go.