BajaRob wrote:
I second that. That way, you know if it's the speedo or not the wiring in the scoot.
Will investigate how to hook it up to a battery though. No clue how I'd go about that honestly. Time to use to ol noggin
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BajaRob wrote: I second that. That way, you know if it's the speedo or not the wiring in the scoot. Will investigate how to hook it up to a battery though. No clue how I'd go about that honestly. Time to use to ol noggin |
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FridayMatinee wrote: Interesting. I mean the speedo is getting power. It turns on fine. I can't cycle through any of the displays though, or get into the adjustment screens. Will investigate how to hook it up to a battery though. No clue how I'd go about that honestly. Time to use to ol noggin |
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BajaRob wrote: It just needs the power and ground from the black box hooked up. That brown one is for the tach. I agree on the selector botton. Total garbage, just like the cht plug gaskets. Those always loosen up and break easily. I might get rid of my button and wire directly to my horn button. I don't have the button though. I connected the button wire to the left side button on the Conversion Switch. I'll try to hook it up to a battery. I think I have an easy way to do that. Make a connector on one end and bare wires on the other to connect to the battery. Should work |
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FridayMatinee wrote: Interesting. I mean the speedo is getting power. It turns on fine. I can't cycle through any of the displays though, or get into the adjustment screens. Will investigate how to hook it up to a battery though. No clue how I'd go about that honestly. Time to use to ol noggin Try this. 1. Make sure key is off. 2. Disconnect the button from the Speedo. 3. Attach one small jumper wire clip to each pin of the button harness plug connector. 4. Turn the key on and start the engine to power up the Speedo. 5. Now touch the loose ends of the two jumper wires together. Keep separating the jumper wires and reconnecting them together. This will simulate the function of the button switch. You should be able to cycle through the screens. 12v Battery hook up(use jumper wires to make connections. Red wire from black box to 12V pos on batt. Black wire from black box to 12V neg on batt. Repeat steps 5-6 above. Here is a pic of how I tested a replacement button switch I used. The other ends of my jumper wires are connected to my new button switch wire harness. In my case, I just pushed the new button to test. You will need to touch the loose ends together. Hec
Button Switch plug connector with yellow and green jumper wires attached.
New button switch wiring harness made by cutting off plug connector from SIP button switch and soldering it to new switch wiring.
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Oh good idea to just make my own button switch! Thanks. I don't have one currently, been trying to use the one on the SIP conversion switch.
Got a new battery charger since mine died so battery is charging, I'll check the speedo tomorrow then. And can make a button switch while I wait. At least this way I'll have figured out fully if the speedo is fried! |
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FridayMatinee wrote: Gotcha. I don't have the button though. I connected the button wire to the left side button on the Conversion Switch. I'll try to hook it up to a battery. I think I have an easy way to do that. Make a connector on one end and bare wires on the other to connect to the battery. Should work I could not get mine to work either... turned out to be the cover which grounds on the switch terminal itself. Worked fine with the cover off. I tried to insulate the switch terminal but no luck, went back to the (sigh) rubber button. This one - https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/light-switch-sip-conversion-for-vespa-50-125-pv-et3-125-vna-ts-150-vba-t4-180-ss-rally_60091300?usrc=conversion%20light%20switch%20sip
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Ginch wrote: Do you have the SIP conversion switch with the horn button on the right, and a matching button on the left for the speedo function? Try again with the cover off. I could not get mine to work either... turned out to be the cover which grounds on the switch terminal itself. Worked fine with the cover off. I tried to insulate the switch terminal but no luck, went back to the (sigh) rubber button. This one - https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/light-switch-sip-conversion-for-vespa-50-125-pv-et3-125-vna-ts-150-vba-t4-180-ss-rally_60091300?usrc=conversion%20light%20switch%20sip |
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Ginch wrote: Do you have the SIP conversion switch with the horn button on the right, and a matching button on the left for the speedo function? Try again with the cover off. I could not get mine to work either... turned out to be the cover which grounds on the switch terminal itself. Worked fine with the cover off. I tried to insulate the switch terminal but no luck, went back to the (sigh) rubber button. This one - https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/light-switch-sip-conversion-for-vespa-50-125-pv-et3-125-vna-ts-150-vba-t4-180-ss-rally_60091300?usrc=conversion%20light%20switch%20sip |
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Here's one major concern that i came across with my VNA Allstate 200 build. There's not a whole lot of room for wires to fit down through the oval holes in headset, down through the steering column when the handlebars are at full lock. I went as far as to take a die grinder and elongate the holes in the frame about an additional 1/4" on both sides. I also didn't hook up the low fuel light connector, just so that there could be just a smidge more room for the other cables and wires. I could see wires easily getting sliced and crimped over time in that spot.
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Ginch wrote: Do you have the SIP conversion switch with the horn button on the right, and a matching button on the left for the speedo function? Try again with the cover off. I could not get mine to work either... turned out to be the cover which grounds on the switch terminal itself. Worked fine with the cover off. I tried to insulate the switch terminal but no luck, went back to the (sigh) rubber button. This one - https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/light-switch-sip-conversion-for-vespa-50-125-pv-et3-125-vna-ts-150-vba-t4-180-ss-rally_60091300?usrc=conversion%20light%20switch%20sip |
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whodatschrome wrote: Here's one major concern that i came across with my VNA Allstate 200 build. There's not a whole lot of room for wires to fit down through the oval holes in headset, down through the steering column when the handlebars are at full lock. I went as far as to take a die grinder and elongate the holes in the frame about an additional 1/4" on both sides. I also didn't hook up the low fuel light connector, just so that there could be just a smidge more room for the other cables and wires. I could see wires easily getting sliced and crimped over time in that spot.
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Ginch is the winner!
Went out today to try to figure out how to use the switch button with the cover off. Didn't come up with anything so looked at the cover and switch to figure out where it could be shorting. Only one place, the top brass fitting. So I got out some electrical tape and covered that fitting and tried again. Can now cycle through the settings. Didn't have time to set it up yet, but that's progress and news! ⚠️ Last edited by FridayMatinee on UTC; edited 1 time
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FridayMatinee wrote: How did you cycle through the settings with the switch cover removed? Touch the terminal with a screwdriver or something? Anyway, glad you got it all happening. |
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Ginch wrote: To be honest, I don't think I was trying to set up the speedo at that point. I think there was an issue with the lights or something and removing the cover was the only way to get it working. I taped the terminal and put the old cover back on. Anyway, glad you got it all happening. Just attempted to set it up. Every time I hit the switch button on the side of the switch the headlight and speedo go blank. Ffs. Going to rig up a button then once I set up the speedo I guess I'll only be able to use the main screen. Which is kinda okay, I don't have any use for speed runs and 1/4mi times and what not. |
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Alright. Ran over to Auto zone and grabbed a button switch. Hoping it's the right type. If not at least I'll know to get the other type!
Since the hookup for the button from the speedo has 2 black wires I rigged up 2 connector branches with the wires reversed in the plastic connector. Should make it quick and easy to swap if I have the wires wrong. Might have time later this afternoon to test. Will be nice to finish this up so I can move the scoot off the lift which doubles as a work bench. I have pocket shutters to strip and some other house projects to get started on.
Button.
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FridayMatinee wrote: Alright. Ran over to Auto zone and grabbed a button switch. Hoping it's the right type. If not at least I'll know to get the other type! Since the hookup for the button from the speedo has 2 black wires I rigged up 2 connector branches with the wires reversed in the plastic connector. Should make it quick and easy to swap if I have the wires wrong. Might have time later this afternoon to test. Will be nice to finish this up so I can move the scoot off the lift which doubles as a work bench. I have pocket shutters to strip and some other house projects to get started on. Here is the switch I used. Its metal and waterproof. This 12v push button switch has momentary ON OFF SPST (Single-Pole Single-Throw) function. When you press the button and maintain, the momentary push button switch is ON (Closed Circuit), release the button and it is OFF (Open Circuit). Good luck! Hec https://www.ebay.com/itm/389106729561?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOorUg7C5woEW8xb_FqPxncKpXHg7VGXeRjbuwJEtYSaWjSmQ6IApXWk&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c |
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Hec In Omaha wrote: FWIW, Here is the switch I used. Its metal and waterproof. This 12v push button switch has momentary ON OFF SPST (Single-Pole Single-Throw) function. When you press the button and maintain, the momentary push button switch is ON (Closed Circuit), release the button and it is OFF (Open Circuit). Good luck! Hec https://www.ebay.com/itm/389106729561?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOorUg7C5woEW8xb_FqPxncKpXHg7VGXeRjbuwJEtYSaWjSmQ6IApXWk&com_cvv=8fb3d522dc163aeadb66e08cd7450cbbdddc64c6cf2e8891f6d48747c6d56d2c |
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And finally done! Hurrah!
Aside from my adjustment screens not being in the same order as the booklet, I'm all sorted. Thanks so much everyone! No leaking oil. I'm ready for spring!!! Or a random 60° winter day.
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Started her up today since it was 49° which felt like summer. For some reason my throttle tube was getting stuck around 1/4 throttle.
Pulled the headlight and split the headset to find, the front brake cable being the culprit. Easy fix, just shove it out of the way! Ready to ride tomorrow when it'll be 55° and next weekend will be in the 60's. Stoked. Also am calling the oil leaking issue solved. Whether it was a warped air box or just the o ring on the clutch cover or both!, when I moved the scoot over to the door to let the exhaust out the door I noticed not a drip in 6 weeks! Nice!
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Not so fast. Installed my frame drip tray today. Nice and easy. Slid it down sideways and wiggled it into place making sure the front and engine side was seated, then heated up the tray and bent it into place. Took about 2 mins total.
Took Bear back outside and filled her tank and kicked her over and the speedo didn't turn on. At all. Awesome.
Took longer to drain the oil tank then to install the tray.
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Bare back?
Hahahaha. Where have I been. Sip Speedo. Check power TO power box. R u running a battery? They are finicky about low voltage… |
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charlieman22 wrote: Bare back? Hahahaha. Where have I been. Sip Speedo. Check power TO power box. R u running a battery? They are finicky about low voltage… Literally all I did was unplug and remove the power box and then hooked it back up. Maybe one of the plugs isn't fully seated. Aside from that I'm at a loss. |
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Quote: Literally all I did was unplug and remove the power box and then hooked it back up. Maybe one of the plugs isn't fully seated. Aside from that I'm at a loss. - power - ground - pinched - not plugged fully On a positive note it's otherwise ready to ride 🙂 |
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charlieman22 wrote: Likely the source of the issue. - power - ground - pinched - not plugged fully On a positive note it's otherwise ready to ride 🙂 |
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Indeed.
Struck me after I typed - perhaps a wire took the brunt of the heat from your pan fitting? Anyway - I'm sure you'll find what ever it was. Edited: neither whore or wore. Wire. |
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I think I found the culprit.
Good news is the cable I made is just a touch short. So I'm gonna make a new longer one. Should solve that. However I kicked her over again last night to double check the speedo before I investigated the issue and I was idling wicked high. Gonna go a leak test since the throttle cable was seated fully and the slide was returning to normal. Onwards.
Ol red didn't wanna join the party anymore!
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Pressure tested today. Forgot I did it and came back 6hrs later to see it didn't drop at all. So that's that. Made sure the throttle cable and slide were kosher while I was in there.
Had to order some new JIS connectors and some wire to make a new speedo wire from the black box to the speedometer. Should be here Wednesday so Bear will hopefully be back on the road by the weekend. Not that it's warm enough to ride again though. Was 94° on Friday, high of 49° tomorrow till Wednesday. It's the damn winter that will never end! One other side of good news, removing the seal plate (that I just friggin installed!) was super easy. It has a little pull tab at the front end. Just gave that a tug and up it popped right up and off. Saw a bunch of reports of how much that was going to suck and I gotta say, it was easy. USA USA USA! Or something.
6hours later I remembered o hooked up the test, didn't move at all.
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FridayMatinee wrote: Pressure tested today. Forgot I did it and came back 6hrs later to see it didn't drop at all. So that's that. Made sure the throttle cable and slide were kosher while I was in there. Had to order some new JIS connectors and some wire to make a new speedo wire from the black box to the speedometer. Should be here Wednesday so Bear will hopefully be back on the road by the weekend. Not that it's warm enough to ride again though. Was 94° on Friday, high of 49° tomorrow till Wednesday. It's the damn winter that will never end! One other side of good news, removing the seal plate (that I just friggin installed!) was super easy. It has a little pull tab at the front end. Just gave that a tug and up it popped right up and off. Saw a bunch of reports of how much that was going to suck and I gotta say, it was easy. USA USA USA! Or something. |
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whodatschrome wrote: Make sure to get the correct sized crimper for those JST terminals. Those little buggers are SUPER finicky to crimp without pinching off the wire. |
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FridayMatinee wrote: Yeah I learned that the first go! Tried using needle nose pliers and after suffering for an hour or so went and got the right tool for the job. Much much easier with the right crimper |
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Probably should have mentioned that much easier in this case means it takes only 45 mins per side instead of 4 hours with needle nose pliers!
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FridayMatinee wrote: Probably should have mentioned that much easier in this case means it takes only 45 mins per side instead of 4 hours with needle nose pliers! |
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After getting all the parts required, ran out of shrink tubing, got the new cables made.
And the speedo still don't work. Awesome. Grade A product. |
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Tried this girl today.
Wouldn't start. 2 weeks ago while trying the new tach/temp she kicked right over. Today nothing. Plug was soaking wet after kicking a bunch. I have good spark. Could it be that I put a 60/160 idle jet in there? Would be weird since it's had a 55/100 and started fine with that before. |
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Is idle jet only change?
Changing can be like pulling the choke - or pushing it back in. What's the temp there today va last time? Best guess, it's just too much fuel. Second best guess, float letting fuel past. Check simple stuff first. Swap back to other after fully drying out. U may have a crankcase full of petrol. If I ever flood, like after hauling in back of truck, I find a hill for a good long roll start clear out. |
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FridayMatinee wrote: Tried this girl today. Wouldn't start. 2 weeks ago while trying the new tach/temp she kicked right over. Today nothing. Plug was soaking wet after kicking a bunch. I have good spark. Could it be that I put a 60/160 idle jet in there? Would be weird since it's had a 55/100 and started fine with that before. Hec |
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charlieman22 wrote: Is idle jet only change? Changing can be like pulling the choke - or pushing it back in. What's the temp there today va last time? Best guess, it's just too much fuel. Second best guess, float letting fuel past. Check simple stuff first. Swap back to other after fully drying out. U may have a crankcase full of petrol. If I ever flood, like after hauling in back of truck, I find a hill for a good long roll start clear out. |
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Hec In Omaha wrote: That's a big jump from 55/100 to 60/160! That's 1.09 points! I think you fat figured the IJ jet size like I did on my post! Which by the way, you correctly called me out on! Hec |
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OP
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3181 Location: Philadelphia |
UTC
quote
Took the plug out and will try again tomorrow gonna let her air out till then.
I did accidentally leave the fuel tap on for weeks…I shut it off a week or so ago but if it was the float, the gas was already in flood mode so hopefully she'll start up tomorrow and that should give me the answer. I hope. |
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OP
UTC
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3181 Location: Philadelphia |
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OP
Ossessionato
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3181 Location: Philadelphia |
UTC
quote
Put in a fresh plug and tried again.
Yahtzee! Started first kick. Note to self, shut off the damn fuel tap! Can't do a jetting test today sadly, my son is home from school already with an ear and sinus infection.
Positive
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