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1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
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Slowly but surely. Got the center floor rails in. Only because they use screws. Got a pop rivet gun that isn't working at all. Won't pop the rivets into place. Tried putting screws in there and still won't help. So I guess I'll try and find a piece of metal to put in the channel to clamp down then I can peen the rivets that way. Sigh. May take me years to hammer them Crying or Very sad emoticon
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For some reason the mobile browser won't let me post pics
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Sorry that pop rivet post is confusing. I put nuts around the rivets to get the rivet gun to sit flush but even that didn't help at all.
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FridayMatinee wrote:
Sorry that pop rivet post is confusing. I put nuts around the rivets to get the rivet gun to sit flush but even that didn't help at all.
Why not use the standard solid rivets and use a rivet tool? it's pretty easy to use.
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GickSpeed wrote:
FridayMatinee wrote:
Sorry that pop rivet post is confusing. I put nuts around the rivets to get the rivet gun to sit flush but even that didn't help at all.
Why not use the standard solid rivets and use a rivet tool? it's pretty easy to use.
I have crappy arms. Lots of surgeries that never really healed so my squeeze strength is non existent. Can't push the head of the rivet to peen the other side. I tried. My arms don't work sadly
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Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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I suggest small socket flathead screws, lightly countersink the holes in the trim, nylok nuts on the bottom and trim off the screw flush with bottom of the nut when done. I know it's NOT stock, but looks OK and you can use acorn nuts w/Loctite on those at the front that show. Now you can remove and adjust, and arm strength is not required. I've done it this way a couple of times and it works fine if you are not a purist.
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Got the fork hub bearings in and the axle today. Anyone use that SIP 8-10" wheel conversion kit and know where that washer they send goes by chance?
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Edit: I know where that washer goes now. Under the castle nut. Duh!
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⚠️ Last edited by FridayMatinee on UTC; edited 1 time
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Big ups to Chatis for the bearings. Thanks again sir!
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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I'll loan you the proper rivet tool, so you can do it right. Its about the same effort to use as a pop-rivet tool, but will smash the solid rivets for a factory look. No hammer required! It holds the rivet secure on its own, so you can also use it with 2 hands, should you need the extra leverage.
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Question about salvageability of this seat frame. Is this worth saving or should I just scrap it?
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Ossessionato
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Here's another view
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One last view from above ish
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FridayMatinee wrote:
Question about salvageability of this seat frame. Is this worth saving or should I just scrap it?
You will either have to get springs for that frame or buy another VNA seat frame. Those are set up with the choke lever under the seat.
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GickSpeed wrote:
FridayMatinee wrote:
Question about salvageability of this seat frame. Is this worth saving or should I just scrap it?
You will either have to get springs for that frame or buy another VNA seat frame. Those are set up with the choke lever under the seat.
Yep. Those springs all snapped when I sat on it the first time. Completely rusted through. Don't know how they were so bad but there's no rust under the seat in the frame. Maybe the seat was just wet enough constantly but not wet enough to drip. Who knows. I'll rebuild it then. Wasn't sure how concerned I should be about the rust on the meaty part of the seat frame. That would also save me having to solve for the choke if I got rid of the original seat.
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GeekLion coming up huge with the SIP rivet took borrow. Got the left side done tonight. Took about 2hrs. I think the second side will be a lot quicker than that now that I'm getting the hang of using it. Getting the rivet length just right to where it's long enough to peen but not too long to bend as you squeeze has been the hardest part.
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Hammering away. But not with a hammer! Floor rails done. That SIP tool is a godsend. If you believe in such things.
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And did a second coat of Ospho on the front fender and seat frame.
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Oh yeah also got the high beam indicator light all the way from India today. Eventually I'll track down an original one. Till then this will have to do.
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Looking good! I'm very glad the tool worked out and didn't get lost in the blizzard! Those rails look sharp. Thats a huge gem Nerd emoticon
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GeekLion wrote:
Looking good! I'm very glad the tool worked out and didn't get lost in the blizzard! Those rails look sharp. Thats a huge gem Nerd emoticon
It is ginormous. And I just was on the SIP site and they have a more original looking one now for only $6 or something. The shipping on that would be absurd. Next order I have to place with Mercato I may have them order it for me then. Plus it's red, like it should be.
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Question. Do I have to press the lower fork bearing in? The pic shows how much of a dry fit gap there is. Just wanna be sure before I try and press it down the rest of the way.
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FridayMatinee wrote:
Question. Do I have to press the lower fork bearing in? The pic shows how much of a dry fit gap there is. Just wanna be sure before I try and press it down the rest of the way.
Yes, it needs to be fully seated. Heat it up and it will tap onto the fork.
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Oh boy. Heated it up in the oven then went to install. Got the bearing half way on and realized I didn't put the seal on first. Luckily I didn't get the bearing all the way set. Apparently 10:30am is still too early for me to work.
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Stretch run now. Got the wiring harness in and the shift, clutch and throttle cables. The throttle is supposed to go in the grommet that the wiring harness goes through correct? It is TIGHT in there. Gonna try and hit the grommet with a hair dryer to soften it up and bit and see if I can't get it in there.
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And here's the headset area
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Now that I think about it I'm assuming not all those wires go through the grommet. The rear light wires and the wires for the regulator don't right?
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Regulator wires to the left panel, taillight wires go to the rear
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Got em.

Was a pain in the bum but all the wires and cables are run. Oh also finally got that damned fuel tap out. Without the special tool no less. Just break the filter that's inside the tank off and use a socket with an extension to take it out with a ratchet or impact wrench. The outlet is completely sealed with old varnished gas. Good news though. Now I can clean the tank more and get a new tap and not need a new tank cause that tap wasn't coming out. A tap is cheaper than a tank and a tap after all.
Need a seat and buddy seat, grips and a fuel tap and I'll be up and running.

Forgot to take pics and I'm in bed already. Next I need to run the wire for the CHT. Once I get that in and I get the brake return spring for the front, I can install the fork and headset and engine.

Much excited. To quote Mr. Gick " This will prove to be an extremely fast scooter; be careful and have fun."
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Oh and I need a tail light too. Either way almost at the finish line.
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Great news! Glad you got the fuel tap out ok. Those are fun. Chuck it in the bin and get a new fast flow tap - and take it apart, clean out any casting flash to maximize flow before using it.

Motor looks nice! I think I saw Gick building that on his site
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Ohh FM, I'm feeling the excitement building - almost there! And that engine is going to make that thing fly.

You know the drill - go easy, then a little more, then a little more. Next thing you know you and your machine will become one...

Popcorn emoticon
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GeekLion wrote:
Great news! Glad you got the fuel tap out ok. Those are fun. Chuck it in the bin and get a new fast flow tap - and take it apart, clean out any casting flash to maximize flow before using it.

Motor looks nice! I think I saw Gick building that on his site
Good tip on cleaning it out before I put it in!

and yeah he posted about it. Watching it lunge forward in his bench test video was pretty sweet to see!
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qascooter wrote:
Ohh FM, I'm feeling the excitement building - almost there! And that engine is going to make that thing fly.

You know the drill - go easy, then a little more, then a little more. Next thing you know you and your machine will become one...

Popcorn emoticon
I can't wait. Just in time for the lousy Smarch weather! At least March here is still wintery so I got about a month before I get too antsy with wanting to take her out on our first date. Maybe on April Fool's day it'll be ready hehe.... perfect day to act like a fool!
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The Dude
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The fool on the Hill

Looking forward to that running in video!! Your in the home stretch!
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Had to go back redo some cables. Went to dry fit the fork and it was getting hung up on the throttle which wasn't sitting right where they exit the tunnel and head up the fork channel. Got that sorted and realized I still had to run the wires for the damned speedometer. Whose bright idea was it to get a fancy new one? Oh yeah mine. Took 3 hrs but I got the TWO wires ran. Hope to not have to do that again for a long while. Also damn do those wire ends BARELY fit through the slot.
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Power box thingie
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And the CHT gauge wire.
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FridayMatinee wrote:
Had to go back redo some cables. Went to dry fit the fork and it was getting hung up on the throttle which wasn't sitting right where they exit the tunnel and head up the fork channel. Got that sorted and realized I still had to run the wires for the damned speedometer. Whose bright idea was it to get a fancy new one? Oh yeah mine. Took 3 hrs but I got the TWO wires ran. Hope to not have to do that again for a long while. Also damn do those wire ends BARELY fit through the slot.
You might need to make the slots bigger for the cables and wires. Exmayor did the tapered bearing conversion on his small frame, and he had to grind the slot opening up so that all the cables and wires wouldn't get sliced up when the handlebars are turned back and forth.
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The Dude
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getting closer! pulling those wires and cables through the barely big enough slot is always fun!

BTW, I got the floorboard rivet tool back. Thanks!
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