Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:47 pm

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 2511

 
Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 2511

Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:47 pm linkquote
chandlerman wrote:
Oh, that's a bummer!

And moments like those, both the good and the bad, are part of why I always take video of First Starts.

And it wasn't just the idle set too high, maybe combined with a lean jetting?

(Another reason for the video. Jack will watch it and respond with exactly the information you need to get it dialed in )
Iím pretty sure itís a GickSpeed motor ? It would have been benchtested to start and run like a top, canít see it being a lean jet. Mine started up second kick out of the tote and into the frame.
Thu Jun 03, 2021 5:15 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Thu Jun 03, 2021 5:15 pm linkquote
Lynnb wrote:
Iím pretty sure itís a GickSpeed motor ? It would have been benchtested to start and run like a top, canít see it being a lean jet. Mine started up second kick out of the tote and into the frame.
Correct.

Was def an user error.
I'm hopeful the loud banging sound was the exhaust smacking against the frame when it fell off and got stuck under there. Flywheel moves easily.

Carb was not at the correct torque when I put it back on once the engine was in the frame. Should have triple checked my double check. Also the throttle cable was stuck and was half open.... This is why you don't do shit like this when you're tired, you make bad decisions. My exhausted mind convinced me to give it a kick... just a little, to see, it'll be fine, nothing to worry about, just do it, it'll be fun and will sound like a monster. Well that last part was true. I got a little scared excitement when it first kicked over, this puppy growls!

The spark plug was also only finger tight, and when I removed it the screw on tip fell off into my hand. Wonder if that had anything to do with the sparking CDI?

Also made sure it was actually in Neutral when all this went down. Luckily it was! I did one thing right at least. FML

Re torqued the carb and plug to spec.
Scared to try to kick it over again after that debacle. The racing like a cheetah right off the bat is frightening. Happened to me with my Vino too and it was from the reed block not being tight. Scared the bedevil outta me then too.
Thu Jun 03, 2021 5:17 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Thu Jun 03, 2021 5:17 pm linkquote
chandlerman wrote:
Oh, that's a bummer!

And moments like those, both the good and the bad, are part of why I always take video of First Starts.

And it wasn't just the idle set too high, maybe combined with a lean jetting?

(Another reason for the video. Jack will watch it and respond with exactly the information you need to get it dialed in )
Half of me was embarrassed to record it just in case I majorly messed up.... I shouldn't have even entertained that idea and just recorded. How else could anyone help if they weren't there ya know?

Will def record the next kick, once I muster up the gumption to try again. Which will probably be this weekend.
Thu Jun 03, 2021 11:09 pm

Addicted
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: 06 May 2019
Posts: 658
Location: Roseburg, Oregon
 
Addicted
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
Joined: 06 May 2019
Posts: 658
Location: Roseburg, Oregon
Thu Jun 03, 2021 11:09 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Half of me was embarrassed to record it just in case I majorly messed up.... I shouldn't have even entertained that idea and just recorded. How else could anyone help if they weren't there ya know?

Will def record the next kick, once I muster up the gumption to try again. Which will probably be this weekend.
I think it's safe to say that atleast most of us understand that feeling. Nervous excitement + anxious embarrassment + fear and loathing in Scooterville.

We are here to support you! Give that sucker a kicker and show it off! Good bad and ugly, its all part of the adventure
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:21 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:21 am linkquote
Does anyone know the torque setting for the carb box to the case? That flat head screw.

I found the carb sleeve nuts torque specs but can't find that flat head screw specs.
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:25 am

Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
 
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:25 am linkquote
Just a little more than hand tight. Its role is just to hold the airbox in place. The carb torque secures the whole assembly to the cases.
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:27 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Fri Jun 04, 2021 5:27 am linkquote
chandlerman wrote:
Just a little more than hand tight. Its role is just to hold the airbox in place. The carb torque secures the whole assembly to the cases.
Excellent thanks! I assumed the sleeve nuts did most of the work but ya never know. Thanks!
Fri Jun 04, 2021 6:19 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Fri Jun 04, 2021 6:19 pm linkquote
Did you get the kill switch sorted out?
I can't find my wiring chart, but I remember there being a dedicated ground wire going to the switch from the stator/coil. That insured a direct link from coil to switch to coil. That setup didn't rely on the chassis to ground the coil and shut off the engine. That may be totally unnecessary, but that's the wiring setup I have.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:41 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:41 am linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Did you get the kill switch sorted out?
I can't find my wiring chart, but I remember there being a dedicated ground wire going to the switch from the stator/coil. That insured a direct link from coil to switch to coil. That setup didn't rely on the chassis to ground the coil and shut off the engine. That may be totally unnecessary, but that's the wiring setup I have.
Not yet. I do have a branch off the headlight wiring that is a double ground but I have no idea where I'm gonna ground that to. Also the headlight isn't hooked up at all so not sure it that caused the sparks?

Electrics are a foreign language to me. Like how does one check continuity if the engine isn't on? I gotta check some youtube I suppose.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:52 am

Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
 
Ossessionato
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella
Joined: 16 Jun 2011
Posts: 3319
Location: Nashville
Sat Jun 05, 2021 6:52 am linkquote
Continuity is best checked without the motor running, to be honest. No chance of shocking yourself and quieter, to boot.

Continuity is testing where or not a circuit is correct, so checking continuity means both making sure that the electricity can get where you want it as well as looking for ground faults, where you have a circuit grounding out rather than completing through the intending path.

Testing it is best done with a multimeter by measuring resistance. If you have continuity, the reading will be near zero. If you don't, it'll be 1. Past that, it's just methodically working through the connections in question.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 7:01 am

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
Sat Jun 05, 2021 7:01 am linkquote
Quote:
Like how does one check continuity if the engine isn't on?
This is pretty basic.

Virtually every multimeter has a ďContinuity ModeĒ. Set it to beep when the two probes are touched together.

With the engine off, touch one probe to one end of the wire youíre checking, and the other probe to the other end. If it beeps, thereís continuity.

To check if the wireís grounding, touch one probe to one end of the wire, and the other probe to either the engine case or the frame. If it beeps, itís grounding.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 9:44 am

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Sat Jun 05, 2021 9:44 am linkquote
SoCalGuy wrote:
This is pretty basic.

Virtually every multimeter has a ďContinuity ModeĒ. Set it to beep when the two probes are touched together.

With the engine off, touch one probe to one end of the wire youíre checking, and the other probe to the other end. If it beeps, thereís continuity.

To check if the wireís grounding, touch one probe to one end of the wire, and the other probe to either the engine case or the frame. If it beeps, itís grounding.
A cheapo multimeter (all you need) is maybe 12 bucks on amazon. A big help would be to get a few "aligator clips" that you can fit on the two probes of the meter.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 12:15 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
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Location: Los Angeles
Sat Jun 05, 2021 12:15 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Not yet. I do have a branch off the headlight wiring that is a double ground but I have no idea where I'm gonna ground that to. Also the headlight isn't hooked up at all so not sure it that caused the sparks?

Electrics are a foreign language to me. Like how does one check continuity if the engine isn't on? I gotta check some youtube I suppose.
Is the SIP wiring loom made for your Allstate/VNA? I'm surprised it didn't come with a diagram.
Now I'm really sorry I lost my notes. I know I had two green wires connected at the horn. It acted as a ground wire junction to the switch. Maybe your loom runs both grounds through the headlight(?)
12v wiring that old bike is actually simple, if you break it down:
For anything to light or honk it needs two wires, a positive and a ground.
On my bike, the headlight, horn, switch, and taillight all have ground wires going to them (not grounded to the chassis, like your regulator and the coil).
The switch, running tail light bulb, and brake switch all get direct (positive) power from the regulator.
Positive wires to the horn and the two high and low beam headlamp terminals are supplied by the switch. The brake light bulb power is supplied by the brake switch.
Unfortunately, the old 6v diagrams don't apply to a 12v conversion. The old system was kind of the opposite.
The only thing that gets grounded out now is the coil, in order to kill the engine. Super easy to test that ground connection with a multimeter.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 12:37 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Sat Jun 05, 2021 12:37 pm linkquote
chandlerman wrote:
Continuity is best checked without the motor running, to be honest. No chance of shocking yourself and quieter, to boot.

Continuity is testing where or not a circuit is correct, so checking continuity means both making sure that the electricity can get where you want it as well as looking for ground faults, where you have a circuit grounding out rather than completing through the intending path.

Testing it is best done with a multimeter by measuring resistance. If you have continuity, the reading will be near zero. If you don't, it'll be 1. Past that, it's just methodically working through the connections in question.
I taped two wires, one to the positive and one to the negative end of a D battery. Clipped the positive to the regulator supply wire and the negative to a flywheel cover bolt.
Was able to test the whole setup. Switches, bulbs.. even the horn made a little buzz.
All on 1.5v DC
Sat Jun 05, 2021 5:15 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Sat Jun 05, 2021 5:15 pm linkquote
I got no beeps on the kill switch wire. Connected at the switch then disconnected the green from the blue at the CDI and got nothing. All other wires beeped when touched.

Why would that single wire not have continuity? It only runs from the switch to the CDI with nothing in between. Even disconnected the green wire at the CDI and tested just the green. Nothing.
Sat Jun 05, 2021 5:26 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Sat Jun 05, 2021 5:26 pm linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Is the SIP wiring loom made for your Allstate/VNA? I'm surprised it didn't come with a diagram.
Now I'm really sorry I lost my notes. I know I had two green wires connected at the horn. It acted as a ground wire junction to the switch. Maybe your loom runs both grounds through the headlight(?)
12v wiring that old bike is actually simple, if you break it down:
For anything to light or honk it needs two wires, a positive and a ground.
On my bike, the headlight, horn, switch, and taillight all have ground wires going to them (not grounded to the chassis, like your regulator and the coil).
The switch, running tail light bulb, and brake switch all get direct (positive) power from the regulator.
Positive wires to the horn and the two high and low beam headlamp terminals are supplied by the switch. The brake light bulb power is supplied by the brake switch.
Unfortunately, the old 6v diagrams don't apply to a 12v conversion. The old system was kind of the opposite.
The only thing that gets grounded out now is the coil, in order to kill the engine. Super easy to test that ground connection with a multimeter.
Yes, it's the SIP VNA conversion harness. Everything is where it's supposed to be wiring wise and have continuity in all wires except that kill wire. The ground for the CDI (that wire that grounds under the screw on the bracket) only beeped when I tested it to the engine case, no ground if I touched the frame. Not sure if that's a problem or not.

I didn't check the brake light or switch yet. Too tired to take that off and check. Not sure why that would have anything to do with the kill wire
Sat Jun 05, 2021 8:28 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Sat Jun 05, 2021 8:28 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
I got no beeps on the kill switch wire. Connected at the switch then disconnected the green from the blue at the CDI and got nothing. All other wires beeped when touched.

Why would that single wire not have continuity? It only runs from the switch to the CDI with nothing in between. Even disconnected the green wire at the CDI and tested just the green. Nothing.
Did you push the kill button while testing continuity?
Sun Jun 06, 2021 5:20 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
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Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Location: Philadelphia
Sun Jun 06, 2021 5:20 am linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Did you push the kill button while testing continuity?
I didnít yesterday so I tried that this morning. Nothing. Put the cover on the switch which isnít mounted to the handlebar. Turned it over so I could put the lead on the brass ring on the bottom of the switch then touched the rear kill wire and zilch.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:14 am

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
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Sun Jun 06, 2021 11:14 am linkquote
Have you checked to see if there is ground at the switch?
There's a brass strip under the cover that connects the kill wire to ground in the switch when you press the button.
I used the screw cover hole (clean metal) to test continuity to ground.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 12:01 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Sun Jun 06, 2021 12:01 pm linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Have you checked to see if there is ground at the switch?
There's a brass strip under the cover that connects the kill wire to ground in the switch when you press the button.
I used the screw cover hole (clean metal) to test continuity to ground.
I havenít. Iíll check tonight when I get back home.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:01 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:01 pm linkquote
The switch housing has a ground strap. Iím using the SIP 12v conversion switch.





Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:21 pm

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
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Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:21 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
The switch housing has a ground strap. Iím using the SIP 12v conversion switch.
Do you have the instructions that was sent with this?



Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:53 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Location: Philadelphia
Sun Jun 06, 2021 2:53 pm linkquote
GickSpeed wrote:
Do you have the instructions that was sent with this?
I did but I couldnít figure it out so I went on the SIP site and looked at their set up for the switch and used that.

Should my blue wire be in the opposite corner, along with all the other changes needed I mean. But just so Iím understanding the set up correctly.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:04 pm

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
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Molto Verboso
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Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:04 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
I did but I couldnít figure it out so I went on the SIP site and looked at their set up for the switch and used that.

Should my blue wire be in the opposite corner, along with all the other changes needed I mean. But just so Iím understanding the set up correctly.
no, you have some things wrong on your switch. take a look at the photo above and correct. for example, you should have Brown (or purple, does not matter), green, and white all to one side just like the diagram.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:42 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
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Sun Jun 06, 2021 4:42 pm linkquote
Just switch the blue and white wires.
Sun Jun 06, 2021 6:44 pm

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
Sun Jun 06, 2021 6:44 pm linkquote
The switch you have is different than the typical ones. It has two side buttons, one for kill and one to replace the external SIP speedo button for a clean installation. So contact 4 is now used for the button. If white is for the horn (as it should), hereís how you should have the wiresÖ



Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:12 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
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Location: Philadelphia
Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:12 am linkquote
Speaking of that other button for the clean install.... how does that happen? I have found zero info on how to use that button after the setup. Only that it can be done.

Gotta use the external button to set it up, but then after set up the button on the switch can be used. But how? Do I just cut the button off and hook those wires up to the switch then?

I'll get the blue and white switched today.
Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:18 am

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
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Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
Mon Jun 07, 2021 6:18 am linkquote
You cut the wires from the external button and connect black / white to contact 4, black to ground. Iím installing the same on my friendís smallframe. The thing I didnít like is that you canít have a pilot light since one of the switch positions is now dead. It was again his choice so I have no saying on itÖ

One more smallie in the works...
Mon Jun 07, 2021 8:53 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
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Mon Jun 07, 2021 8:53 am linkquote
Okay. Got the wires sorted at the switch.

Still no kill wire continuity though.
The brown ground for the CDI only has continuity on the engine case. Not grounded to the frame. Dunno if thatís normal.

Tail light ground is kosher.
Not sure why the kill wire is the only one not cooperating.
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:05 am

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
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Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:05 am linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Okay. Got the wires sorted at the switch.

Still no kill wire continuity though.
The brown ground for the CDI only has continuity on the engine case. Not grounded to the frame. Dunno if thatís normal.

Tail light ground is kosher.
Not sure why the kill wire is the only one not cooperating.
Shoot a photo of your CDI and junction box connections.
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:12 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
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Location: Philadelphia
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:12 am linkquote
Hereís the CDI/junction box Jon



Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:31 am

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
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Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:31 am linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Speaking of that other button for the clean install.... how does that happen? I have found zero info on how to use that button after the setup. Only that it can be done.

Gotta use the external button to set it up, but then after set up the button on the switch can be used. But how? Do I just cut the button off and hook those wires up to the switch then?

I'll get the blue and white switched today.
Okay, went through this thread, also looked into that SIP speedo. It's nuts! Really, a lambda sensor is a possibility? I inherited a contemporary (to the Allstate) speedo, so I'm really reluctant to switch, but wow..

Make sure you connect the blue wire to where SaFiS marked, not where the white currently is.

BTW I have an extra rust-free seat. It will need some drilling to connect the choke lever, but not much work at all.
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:40 am

Hooked
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Location: Philadelphia
 
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Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:40 am linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Okay, went through this thread, also looked into that SIP speedo. It's nuts! Really, a lambda sensor is a possibility? I inherited a contemporary (to the Allstate) speedo, so I'm really reluctant to switch, but wow..

Make sure you connect the blue wire to where SaFiS marked, not where the white currently is.

BTW I have an extra rust-free seat. It will need some drilling to connect the choke lever, but not much work at all.
yes blue is in spot #4 now not where the white wire was, when I first did the move I 1 for 1 swapped then went back and checked the pic and moved the blue to #4

I have the original seat I just need to get new springs for it, when I sat on the og one all the springs broke, and it wasn't my weight doing the damage lol, I'm 148lbs soaking wet. They were rusted to death apparently. Got a repro seat for now till I take the time to get new springs and redo the old one.

Also wanna run the speedo with a fuel gauge but the wiring that comes with the speedo doesn't fit through the holes for the cables/wiring. I got a electrical connections removal set off amazon so I may go back and take the plastic connector off and run it through then put the plastic back on. We'll see how adventurous I get when I re run the cables I got from Jon Gick. May as well run the fuel gauge line while I do that.
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:47 am

Molto Verboso
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Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
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Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:47 am linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
Hereís the CDI/junction box Jon
With the motor running, what happens if you take the green wire out of the switch and ground it against your headset/chassis?
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:55 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
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Location: Philadelphia
 
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Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Mon Jun 07, 2021 9:55 am linkquote
GickSpeed wrote:
With the motor running, what happens if you take the green wire out of the switch and ground it against your headset/chassis?
I'll let you know when the package arrives and I get the exhaust on.
I had tried to kick it over the other day and it went all wrong. Exhaust fell off, engine racing, sparks out of the CDI and no kill switch. So pulled the plug and haven't tried again yet. I'm scared!

Once the exhaust bolt is here I won't fear that falling off again and making horrible noises.
Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:44 pm

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
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Location: Los Angeles
 
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Wed Jun 09, 2021 5:44 pm linkquote
Doesn't your CDI have a green wire coming from it?
Can't see in your pic.
Have you paired it with the brown wire from the stator and grounded them both to the engine?
Just wondering why that CDI is arcing like that!
I don't know why they have those rubber washers on your setup. The CDI bracket (for a px) they sent me has none.
It has to be grounded to the engine.
Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:24 pm

Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Molto Verboso
Joined: 03 Nov 2011
Posts: 1251
Location: Racing Capital of the World
Wed Jun 09, 2021 8:24 pm linkquote
Ray8 wrote:
Doesn't your CDI have a green wire coming from it?
Can't see in your pic.
Have you paired it with the brown wire from the stator and grounded them both to the engine?
Just wondering why that CDI is arcing like that!
I don't know why they have those rubber washers on your setup. The CDI bracket (for a px) they sent me has none.
It has to be grounded to the engine.
I'm not sure what you are looking at, but this gentlemen has the wiring at this CDI correct. Brown from the stator to the CDI bracket, red to red, White to white, and the blue/white to green.

The rubber buffers for the CDI bracket are just that, buffers. Vespa has used these since late 1978.


just a guess his issues are further upriver.
Thu Jun 10, 2021 8:40 am

Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
 
Hooked
1959 Allstate w P125x Engine
Joined: 29 Nov 2020
Posts: 131
Location: Los Angeles
Thu Jun 10, 2021 8:40 am linkquote
My (variable) Vape CDI has a green ground wire. I can't see it in his picture. It's on the other side.
On the diagram that came with it, there's a symbol for grounding a connection that some may not know about.
Also an explanation mark after "make sure this connection is 100%"





Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:26 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:26 am linkquote
The green CDI wire grounds on the screw that holds whatever that block of metal (which is where the sparks came from) is called, on. The brown is attached to a different screw on that same bracket.



Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:29 am

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:29 am linkquote
And I have one more Iím sure redundant question about the headlight.

My head light socket is different from the wiring diagram. Iíve got the 4 wire to the light but 5 anchor points on the socket.

Iím assuming the ground goes top left since that just grounds to the socket housing.
Now do I split the yellow wires for the main bulb and then the purple and brown ones go to the pilot?



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