OP
UTC

Hooked
'81 Vespa P200e, '85 Vespa PX125e, 1985 T5
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Location: St. Catharines, Ontario
 
Hooked
'81 Vespa P200e, '85 Vespa PX125e, 1985 T5
Joined: UTC
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Location: St. Catharines, Ontario
UTC quote
Anyone every remove or replace these?

I know they are a replaceable part. Everyone just replace one or two bolts on a rim?

I have a brand new rim with a misthreaded stud and I would rather replace the stud than they whole rim.

Any input is appreciated.
N
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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UTC quote
I had a hub that had a regular hex head bolt bodged into it. I took it out, had the hole welded up, a new hole drilled, and then tapped threads for a proper stud. Drilling the hole correctly is critical. It's easily messed up even if it's off a bit. Have a machine shop with a drill press and proper measuring tools to get it right.

If the hole you have is ok, you can remove the stud with a stud remover or a hack job with a Visegrip.

So, yes, it can be done.
OP
UTC

Hooked
'81 Vespa P200e, '85 Vespa PX125e, 1985 T5
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Location: St. Catharines, Ontario
 
Hooked
'81 Vespa P200e, '85 Vespa PX125e, 1985 T5
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Location: St. Catharines, Ontario
UTC quote
So really it's not as easy it would seem.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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UTC quote
It could difficult getting the old stud out. SIP sells a special tool to remove them, but I've never used it.

Mine was easy to get out because it had a hardware hex head bolt, which is not original. The problem was that it had an oversized hole. That's why I went through the trouble of having it welded, drilled, and tapped.

If the hole had been ok, I would have just put in a proper stud.
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UTC quote
the back side of the studs are flared out from the factory to keep them from coming out. If you try and remove them without drilling out that flare it will just rip up the existing threads.

so, not really easy but it can be done.
@christopher_55934 avatar
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2007 Stella 225
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Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
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UTC quote
I replaced my rear studs, I wanted to use flanged locknuts. I was able to turn my studs in a turn so the flare stuck out some and ground it off. The screws went in no problem.
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The Dude
Too Many piles of Junk that need too much work and too much money
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UTC quote
This is the way ^^^^^^^

For proper OEM look, use studs; but longer than the factory.
If not concerned about it being factory, you can use Button head hex bolts; which will add some security with the bolt head on the backside. Either way, use longer ones and Red Locktite.

Also, heat can be you're friend for loosening those factory studs! Just like heating the case to pull bearings.

Good luck!
Christopher_55934 wrote:
I replaced my rear studs, I wanted to use flanged locknuts. I was able to turn my studs in a turn so the flare stuck out some and ground it off. The screws went in no problem.
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Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
Probably irrelevant to the OP but FYI on stud bolts...

Those flanged ends just kiss part of my radial caliper. Or did... I let them work it out between them. Guessing that button caps would stick out a little bit further. And if I had longer stud bolts I wouldn't be able to seat or remove the wide tyre on the back (despite removing the exhaust, shock, and dropping the motor down as far it will go - which I have to do as standard).

The price you pay for custom mods...
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74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
I replaced my rear studs, I wanted to use flanged locknuts. I was able to turn my studs in a turn so the flare stuck out some and ground it off. The screws went in no problem.
That's definitely the way to do it.
pheasant plucker wrote:
Guessing that button caps would stick out a little bit further.
Yes they do, and they hit the caliper.


There is a type of hub where the studs are not screwed and staked. They're staked, but pressed in or something. This was a fairly new hub as well... tried screwing them out but no go. So had a guy drill them out - I was a long way from home at the point. Holes ended up in the wrong spot.
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UTC quote
Timely topic!

I overtightened a lug nut and pulled the stud through. Ultimately, after I realized what was happening, I pulled it all the way out and cleaned it up with a hacksaw and file. I can thread the stud back in, but it doesn't hold securely.

I put in a hex head bolt as a stop gap. It works well with the threads in the drum intact. I don't have the means to press in a new stud. I was thinking about trying JB Weld to see if that holds the stud in place.

I'm sure I'll end up replacing the hub, but in the meanwhile, bodge mode engage.
@christopher_55934 avatar
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2007 Stella 225
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@christopher_55934 avatar
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UTC quote
jape wrote:
Timely topic!

I overtightened a lug nut and pulled the stud through. Ultimately, after I realized what was happening, I pulled it all the way out and cleaned it up with a hacksaw and file. I can thread the stud back in, but it doesn't hold securely.

I put in a hex head bolt as a stop gap. It works well with the threads in the drum intact. I don't have the means to press in a new stud. I was thinking about trying JB Weld to see if that holds the stud in place.

I'm sure I'll end up replacing the hub, but in the meanwhile, bodge mode engage.
The factory stud is thread not pressed in.
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Christopher_55934 wrote:
jape wrote:
Timely topic!

I overtightened a lug nut and pulled the stud through. Ultimately, after I realized what was happening, I pulled it all the way out and cleaned it up with a hacksaw and file. I can thread the stud back in, but it doesn't hold securely.

I put in a hex head bolt as a stop gap. It works well with the threads in the drum intact. I don't have the means to press in a new stud. I was thinking about trying JB Weld to see if that holds the stud in place.

I'm sure I'll end up replacing the hub, but in the meanwhile, bodge mode engage.
The factory stud is thread not pressed in.
The back of the stud is peened over. I don't have a means to do that. How do you do it?
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UTC quote
I took the wheel off, then I was able to put two nuts on a stud locking them together. Then I was able to tighten the stud down another turn. That left the premed end sticking my out a little. Then I ground the end of the stud off with a rotary tool. Same thing as a Dremel just a different brand.
jape wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
jape wrote:
Timely topic!

I overtightened a lug nut and pulled the stud through. Ultimately, after I realized what was happening, I pulled it all the way out and cleaned it up with a hacksaw and file. I can thread the stud back in, but it doesn't hold securely.

I put in a hex head bolt as a stop gap. It works well with the threads in the drum intact. I don't have the means to press in a new stud. I was thinking about trying JB Weld to see if that holds the stud in place.

I'm sure I'll end up replacing the hub, but in the meanwhile, bodge mode engage.
The factory stud is thread not pressed in.
The back of the stud is peened over. I don't have a means to do that. How do you do it?
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Christopher_55934 wrote:
I took the wheel off, then I was able to put two nuts on a stud locking them together. Then I was able to tighten the stud down another turn. That left the premed end sticking my out a little. Then I ground the end of the stud off with a rotary tool. Same thing as a Dremel just a different brand.
That sounds like a process for removing a stud -- you grind off the bit that is pressed/peened in. How have you installed a new one?
@christopher_55934 avatar
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2007 Stella 225
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@christopher_55934 avatar
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UTC quote
I'm not sure I understand the question. Can you post a picture of what problem your having exactly?

I didn't put studs back in, I used socket head cap screws, that were longer than original. I threaded the screws in from the back side, if your threads are good they screw in just like any standard screw.

As for putting in a new threaded stud. You can screw a new one in, just like screwing the old one out, after the peened over end is ground off. Everything is threaded, there nothing to press in anywhere. If you ripped a stud out of the hub and damaged the threads in the hub the only easy and correct way to fix it is to buy a new hub. The premed over end could be done with a center punch of some type.
jape wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
I took the wheel off, then I was able to put two nuts on a stud locking them together. Then I was able to tighten the stud down another turn. That left the premed end sticking my out a little. Then I ground the end of the stud off with a rotary tool. Same thing as a Dremel just a different brand.
That sounds like a process for removing a stud -- you grind off the bit that is pressed/peened in. How have you installed a new one?
⬆️    About 2 years elapsed    ⬇️
@oxymoron avatar
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Hooked
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UTC quote
When re-fitting new hub studs, should I JB weld them or would a high-temp (272) lock-tite suffice?
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76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate
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141 Days Since Last Explosion
 
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141 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
loc-tite will suffice. Unless you're SubEtherBASS, who melts the paint on his brake drum.
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chandlerman wrote:
loc-tite will suffice. Unless you're SubEtherBASS, who melts the paint on his brake drum.
Well, he did paint them with Velveeta, so loc-tite would still be set at that temp.
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
Well, he did paint them with Velveeta, so loc-tite would still be set at that temp.
I must not understand what 'banned' means. Personally, I'm happy to see you still posting. I hope it's not an anomaly
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the title under your name is usually based on your number of posts, unless you get a special one. he's not really banned or he'd not be here. plus he doesn't start crap to get himself banned - he's a solid contributor.
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Molto Verboso
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sdjohn wrote:
the title under your name is usually based on your number of posts, unless you get a special one. he's not really banned or he'd not be here. plus he doesn't start crap to get himself banned - he's a solid contributor.
I'm just trolling here for a special one or a black cat under my avatar, so I can get the hell out Razz emoticon
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@sdjohn avatar
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UTC quote
Careful what you wish for, I don't think the users pick those ROFL emoticon
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2007 Stella 225
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@christopher_55934 avatar
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UTC quote
Ray8 wrote:
I'm just trolling here for a special one or a black cat under my avatar, so I can get the hell out Razz emoticon
Maybe we can get you a troll?
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UTC quote
I used bolts of the correct hardness to replace the studs and ground down the bolt head so it wouldn't foul anything. I chased the hub threads and used red locktite. I wanted to keep at least some of the bolt head on it. Also allows longer studs to be installed.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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sdjohn wrote:
the title under your name is usually based on your number of posts, unless you get a special one. he's not really banned or he'd not be here. plus he doesn't start crap to get himself banned - he's a solid contributor.
So it's kind of a self-referential in-joke. Easy to see he's a solid contributor. The 'banned' made no sense, hence my question. It still makes no sense.
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MichaelRyerson wrote:
So it's kind of a self-referential in-joke. Easy to see he's a solid contributor. The 'banned' made no sense, hence my question. It still makes no sense.
it was given after this exchange:
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post1986251#1986251

I consider it one of my most cherished possessions at this point.
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oopsclunkthud wrote:
it was given after this exchange:
https://modernvespa.com/forum/post1986251#1986251

I consider it one of my most cherished possessions at this point.
Context helps. See you around.
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