Modern Vespa

I just purchased a 2014 GTS 300i Super. The GTS has two dings on the upper left hand side towards the front. I pulled out the pet carrier (first time) and I can see that they have a panel welded in there with something attached on the other side.... right where the dings are, so I can't reach up and see/feel them. What is mounted there that is preventing me from getting to those dings from the inside?

I really dont think that I am going to do anything at all with the two dings, but just scoping out possibilities. Otherwise, the bike is immaculate.

You can see the dings in this pic:

The metal body of the GTS is a monocoque construction which serves as the frame of the scooter. It is intended to function as one piece so you aren't going to partially disassemble it to get behind reinforced portions. There are, of course, some body shop techniques to deal with dents that are not accessible from behind.

Below is a photo of the monocoque frame (which is available as a replacement part).

I've had reasonably good success using a glue gun type dent puller, pretty cheap to buy one. Usually not perfect job though. Harbor Freight sells them as I recall.

And there are always good dent removal specialists that frequent auto dealers that can do an excellent job. Usually around $100 for a dent or two if not too bad. Obviously some are more skilled than others.

Search paintless dent removal or repair in your area. I'm sure there some good ones in north Georgia.

Please share a picture of what is welded to the inside.
It may have been the welding that caused the dimples....

I never understood why they have not strengthened the body behind where the buttocks protrude, they are often subject to bumps and difficult to repair and therefore it would be better if they were removable and made of plastic. It's a good idea.

The most desirable aspect of the Vespa are it's shapely buttocks

I understand and I agree but being a little more functional does not affect the appearance.

Re-introducing the removable side cowls like on the older models wouldn't be such a bad thing.

That's right, that's what i meant.

Ballpark cost of the chassis?

At least £1000, here in Europe. It would be cheaper to get a body shop to do a dent puller.

I just checked Sunny and can easily get my (large) hand behind the bracket to the inside of the body panel with your dents. The softer dent can be readily pressed out, but I think the round indentation will have to be body filled and resprayed as the metal has permanently deformed.

You could fill in the dents then wrap the rear end. Some have done that with a color that compliments the original color.

Even dents that have stretched the metal causing more deformation can have a paint less dent removal job done. The experts who do this sort of repair can usually make it good as new. No access to the rear of the dent required. That's where you need to go. Don't try it yourself if you want a completely good as new repair. And the kits they use to do the job are much better than the ones you can usually buy on Ebay.

I've had dents on previous cars removed using this method where the metal has been very distorted and stretched. After the repair (which cost me just £90) I was unable to detect even where the damage had been. £90 covered the cost of doing up to two dents on the same panel.

Good luck!

dings = prime real estate from some sweet stickers

I agree, everyone has their own profession even if no one is forbidden to try the DIY way; it will in any case be less dangerous to repair the bodywork than to intervene on the engine or wheels.
I started as a hobbyist but then over the years I learned but it was different, I am a mechanical graduate with both practical and theoretical experience (CAD design) even if in the end I arrived in the agricultural sector (for family and health needs I sacrificed my technical career).

I second what Stromrider says. PDR or paintless dent removal should be able to take both those out. Watch some youtube videos and see the magic those craftsmen work. Check on Yelp for a shop doing PDR with good reviews. Head over and get an estimate. I'd look on CL for someone who does this for a living taking on side work. A lot less tools required than conventional body work.