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@danie avatar
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A friend recently bought a PX200, and when we took the cylinder cowling off, we saw that it has a Malossi kit, 2007 version.

What should the timing be for this setup, and what is the recommended plug to use?
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1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1987 PK125XL Elestart, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
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@safis avatar
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UTC quote
Timing: 18° (usually IT but it's better to time it).
Plug: B9ES.
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2007 Stella 225
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SaFiS wrote:
Timing: 18° (usually IT but it's better to time it).
Plug: B9ES.
I agree, use a timing light to verify timing, my marks were off several degrees. I'd have to go back and look, my marks were something like 8° off.
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@danie avatar
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@danie avatar
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SaFiS wrote:
Timing: 18° (usually IT but it's better to time it).
Plug: B9ES.
So the timing for both the Malossi 166 and 210 are 18°. Interesting

In my part of the world the average winter temp is 20°C, and the average summer temp is 25°C. Is a 9 plug not a bit too cold then?
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
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@danie avatar
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@danie avatar
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UTC quote
Which jets are supplied with the Malossi 210 kit?
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danie wrote:
Which jets are supplied with the Malossi 210 kit?
There's 1 130 si carb main jet that comes with the cylinder.

Captcha shared an awesome link in another post with a table of the timings...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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@danie avatar
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@danie avatar
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Since we have to import any jets bigger than a 118, we used a standard SI2424 carb to start the bike. (Will order a set of jets from SIP). It starts with the first kick, and revs beautifully, but only runs with the choke fully open.

So what do I have to change except for the bigger main jet? Different air correction jet? Different mixer?
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UTC quote
danie wrote:
Since we have to import any jets bigger than a 118, we used a standard SI2424 carb to start the bike. (Will order a set of jets from SIP). It starts with the first kick, and revs beautifully, but only runs with the choke fully open.

So what do I have to change except for the bigger main jet? Different air correction jet? Different mixer?
The answer to your question could be yes to all the above. I have to go to work, quick thoughts.

Did you drill out the passage between the float bowl and main stack to about 2mm?

Air correction jets 120, 140 and 160 are nice to have on hand. Smaller air correction jets make that 118 richer.

If you haven't already don't have time to read through, post up your motor air filter exhaust etc someone here probably has something close to get you started.
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@danie avatar
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@danie avatar
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Posts: 364
Location: George, South Africa
UTC quote
Malossi 210
Standard crank
SIP Road 2 exhaust
Standard SI 2424 carb
AC 160
Mixer BE3
Main jet 118

"Did you drill out the passage between the float bowl and main stack to about 2mm? " How and where do I do this?
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UTC quote
You will need to remove the carb.
Pull off the float bowl top by unscrewing the center nut.
The the float out and you will see two holes in the bottom 1/3.
One is for the choke circuit - you can trace that as it comes out the side and sits to the left of the one you want.
The other is low in the bowl, and facing the bottom of the tube that your main jet stack screws into.
Unscrew your main jet stack - and your idle jet - and remove them.
This is going to make dust and particles that you dont want to get in to your jets.

Take a 2mm - 2.1mm drill bit that you use micrometers to measure and confirm it is properly sized.
I like to use a flex head of a Dremel tool and put the drill bit in that - as it is much more controlled than a big drill.
A hand drill is also an option.

Tape the edges of the float chamber at the top where the cap goes on. - so if you scrape them with the drill you don't damage them.

Before you drill out the hole - flip the carb over. you will see visually that you are drilling into a cup. you don't want to drill through the bottom of that cup - but you need to drill until your bit goes all the way in to it.
Drill out the hole - it is about 1.5mm already - you are making it 2~2.1mm

** Don't put a lot of pressure on the drill. let it do the work. you will feel almost a pop like sound through your fingers as you get through into the cup.
you can take your drill bit and flip it around and use the other end to test that you got all the way through into the cup.

Finally - use compressed air and some carb spray to clean out all particles. When you blast it in the hole you drilled - it will spray right out the top where the main stack screws in.
flip the carb upside down and do it a couple times that way too.
Get it thoroughly thoroughly cleaned out before you re-assemble.

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