Hi!
Are you sure that metal seal is the correct for that casing?
There are two versions of the casings. -with and without "lip" where the sealing sits.
If there is a small groove where the sealing sits, you have to use the rubber ones, not metal ones.
-and vice versa.
In addition the metal sealings are normally too thick, so I normally grind them down a milimeter or two. -can't recall the exact number, but google probably do.
-then you're sure that the sealing is flush with the crankhouse and not interfering with the bearing...
All the best and good luck!
Ø
Actually you have a super valid point.
My vespa engine is a 1985 Built so i just found out that it's the rubber seal the correct one..
I have been sold for 4 times the wrong one ( metal one)🤐
The crank is out and It is being Correte and Tig welding.
Hopefully my nightmares are over soon.
Antoniotriopx wrote:
Thanks guys.
These are great tools.
I have been thinking about purchase some thing like that.
I feel better now in a way as I'm not the only one with this problem and for me opens the door at more specific handlings.
Thanks for the info very much appreciate your guys time .
Last time I rebuild this engine (last year) i believe I didn't grind back that metal seal.
Would that make it pop out?
Also I have noticed that the seal has been rubbing on to the bearing because of marks behind.
So should I try one more time?
Grind it back and loctite 603?
If not where would I get the rubber seal? To any bearing place ?