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1979 smallframe, bajaj Priya aka VBB, PX150E Disc Brake
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UTC quote
Messed with the carb dial-in, got a good "die off" when fuel is shut off.

Might make another video and see what you all think.

Jack, how does rich idle translate into lean at WOT with the paddle/cocaine spoon in the smart carb?
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX181, PX125 and some motorbikes
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Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX181, PX125 and some motorbikes
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UTC quote
Smart carbs have needles (rods) just like regular carbs. But the needle does all the jobs. Get the right needle and it adjusts itself.
Yours is too rich at low rpm. And too lean at high. Adjusting the clicker might just lean out the low end. Has the wrong rod in it for the high end. There are several rods to choose from. CM2 could share what worked for his, to save time and piston.
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1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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1997 Italjet Formula 125, 2 matching N.Z. '69 VBC Super, 177cc Racer, VespaCross Bodge, Puch SRA150, Piaggio Zip 100! & others
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Upon reading...

This...
stimuli wrote:
Gearing looks like this> Bought a 35 tooth fourth by mistake. Got a 36 waiting for next case split.
And this...

It's weird, but I love it. I'll need an even shorter fourth to really make use of fourth gear. I already have a BGM xmas tree with closer gearing, a quite tall primary (22/63 if memory serves). This gives me a first gear that actually does something besides wheelies, a taller second, third the same as stock (my fave gear; I didn't want to mess with it), and fourth shorter (though needs a touch more shortening).

And

Thinking that you want more fun... & better gearing...

I am going to recommend my all-time fav proven for fun, but setup in my instance on 8" VBC GEARING SETUP...
it also takes into consideration COST.

Primary:
make that mofo LONGGGG ( pretty sure you already have that).
For the final calcs, this is the TOP SPEED factoring device.
It needs to be matched to the powerband, with TOP REALISTIC SPEED (ie about 110kmh) being possible at about 2/3 or so range of the useful usable power, with 100-110kmh being in the sweetspot of the powerband.

1st Gear:
Leave it STANDARD.
It saves costs, and really, it's ok till somewhere like 35kmh, and longer and it can become frustrating for city-riding, and getting going off the lights (till ya hit mid-intersection and all hell breaks loose)

2nd Gear:
ADD a TOOTH (possibly 2 TEETH)
Bring it as close to 3rd as you can, with the powerband being about 65/70-80-85kmh
Therefore once you are on the pipe in 2nd, there is always an option to;
A; stay in 2nd, and keep the power on
B, shift into 3rd, and keep the power on

3rd gear;
Keep it STANDARD
Again, it saves costs, & you ALREADY love 3rd, but now it is available at a HIGHER SPEED, with the powerband being smack on 75/80-95/100kmh, but usable from about 50kmh all the way to 110+kmh

4th gear;
Drop as many teeth OFF it as you can
Try calculator for 2teeth LESS... Then grow a pair & become a "fwee-teef-yokel" ( from memory it wasn't an option for a VBC1 box), and add a LONGER primary To gain that TOP SPEED.
Get that gear as clost to 3rd as possible!

That makes a usable gearbox, and will ensure once you are moving, you can remain ON THE PIPE for the entire time!
I needed to completely change my riding style & how i used the gears, so there was always another option for a gear close by...
eg. Hitting a headwind and/or a rise & noticing revs are dropping a bit or you are slowing down?... simply chop down a gear & you will immediately be beck on the powerband.
Dragging someone & they are getting away?... you're in the wrong gear, change to the one that is on the powerband.
Losing speed at 100kmh?... change into 3rd.
Almost at the next set of lights but you know they're about to change & you will need to stop??... stay in 2nd & nail it till you need to slow down.

Here is what i did, and I would make minor changes (longer primary, shorter 4th) if $$ allowed (ie other bits didn't fail) but am pretty happy with it overall, and it transformed the ride.

modify VBC1. 2-port - Fuel... Gimme MORE FUEL ! (Page 3)
⚠️ Last edited by SubEtherBASS on UTC; edited 5 times
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
You mean you don't want to go 85 MPH on your scooter? Razz emoticon
Take into consideration that the aerodynamics of a Brick restrict the TOP REALISTIC SPEED to about 120kmh, over that wind resistance, and other factors start to take more effect, plus speed limits and safety etc mean what's the point of being able to do 140kmh when in reality it won't happen enough to be a practical place to spend the dosh... but remember, that sometimes in ideal conditions itwill still be possibly able to do it... and most times you need power when you can use it.
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UTC quote
And the results were...

Remember, this is on a VBC1, 8"... so yours will be different.
SubEtherBASS wrote:
Here is how I see it...

Grunt;
Highest = 14.4 hp
Amount in "usable rev range" = 10 hp

& the all important... SPEED !

1st = 34km/h (defo not full throttle)
2nd = 61 km/h (ditto)
3rd = 32 km/h to 108 km/h (fuk yeah!)
4th = about 45 km/h to 132 km/h (OMG that sounds fun, yet mildly scary)


Not bad for a wee 2-port VBC 150 motor!

Note: 1st & 2nd didn't get seperate runs, as only 3rd & 4th are checked... Ohh well.

I'm amazed that the calcs worked, it just appears to be revving about 8500 rpm, but I only calculated 7000rpm.

As you may see... In 4th I was watching the Dyno speed & saw.. 120, 125, 128... Revs getting higher... Then thought: Ohh well may as well see if it will go 130... Yip, damn that's really revving now... Button off time, I've got about 3000km to ride in a few days... That's enough.
Result: 132 km/h & STILL pushing 10 hp ! YEEHAA !
[/u]
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1979 smallframe, bajaj Priya aka VBB, PX150E Disc Brake
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UTC quote
Nice! Hopefully my shorter-fourth and 35 tooth make me a fwee-teef-yokel When I next split my cases. Thanks for the tips, SEB!

BTW, Jack and Jim, you guys helped me find an air leak. I had a slow oil drip off my brake cable, and some splatter on my rear wheel. It got worse with time, not to mention louder.

The half-baked Indian cases make my intake block rock (held down with two bolts). I've tried a couple approaches to sealing it. Last approach was a gas-proof epoxy/metal stick rolled thin like playdough sausage, tracing the carb block outer perimeter. It worked for a while, but was no longer sealing and started to leak/spray.

I've got a better bodge now, I don't want to tell you what I did because you'll give me stick. Let's just say it rhymes with Permatex Epoxy Shmue. Sanded and cleaned both surfaces with acetone grease remover.

Once confirmed no leak, I'll make another video with better SC2 dial-in.

Thanks, all.
⚠️ Last edited by stimuli on UTC; edited 1 time
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UTC quote
The bodge until I get a better solution going.
The culprit was leaking air towards the front
The culprit was leaking air towards the front
Easy access four bolts
Easy access four bolts
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Btw the bodge image was mid-progress and yes I cleaned the drips, both visible and invisible. Next case split I'll sand the case with a block and some sandpaper to get a more planar, gasketable surface.
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UTC quote
Speaking of bodges, here's a brief tour.
I can't believe no one has pointed this out
I can't believe no one has pointed this out
Turn signals have beepers
Turn signals have beepers
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What's that hose from?
How is it at the body end?
Is (was) it clear?
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UTC quote
"MRP Dumbo"
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I admire your enthusiasm and willingness to give it a go.
Keep up the good work there's no right or wrong when it comes to these things. You learn a lot along the way. Doing the work yourself pays dividends so when things go wrong you fix it yourself and know where to look..
My Malossi reeds pay tribute and are in sympathy.
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Noice…. Looks like a hockey player's teeth.

Tell me more about the SIP perf 2.0

Also would a T5 ehaust fit, minus the bolt on flange?
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That pipe gives as good as a box, fills in all the gaps with a beautiful midrange power hit. Kind of like a big elastic band. Nice rev on like I said earlier. Bags of torque down low. No need for fancy gearing short 4ths bla bla. Just P200 gearing with a 22/23-64 primary and you can have all the top end in the world without sacrificing anything in between….Can't fault it.
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I noticed that intake isn't much bigger than a rotary inlet and that crank web being in the way may not help matters Simulli. You may not see the full potential with the Mhr in this case.
A sport kit may be better suited
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76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
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UTC quote
I assumed the LML cases were reed, not rotary. That's going to limit things a bit, for sure.
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The MRP is notorious for leaking at the manifold.

There's just not enough material before it meets the screw, then the air passes by the screw upwards.

I messaged the MRP guys about it, because each one I've installed, it had the leak… had to hand cut a bunch of gaskets because of failed tests to make sure it didn't leak.

Always had to use sealant at that area.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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@ginch avatar
74 Super, 75 Super, PX project, LML off-roader and '66 Blue Badge Smallframe
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UTC quote
chandlerman wrote:
I assumed the LML cases were reed, not rotary. That's going to limit things a bit, for sure.
That's because...
stimuli wrote:
I tossed that set of cases, order new ones from India.

They turned out to be reed-intake. I went with an MRP (or was it MMW?) reed intake, VForce knockoff reeds, and had a Polini CP30 carb.
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Veni, Vidi, Posti
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UTC quote
108 wrote:
I messaged the MRP guys about it, because each one I've installed, it had the leak…
I'm interested to know what they said 108?
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Ginch wrote:
I'm interested to know what they said 108?
No reply…

Forgot to mention I usually make a RTV bridge across that area to hold the gasket in place and to give it more sealing surface.
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