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Lucky
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It's nice to be an Inspiration rather than a Cautionary Tale for once!

I finished up the filling and sanding a little while ago. I was pleasantly surprised how little work I still had to do once I guide coated for a final surface check. Now, I'm taking a little lunch break, then off to the hardware store for air filters and more eye bolts to hang my paint tent in a new location.

Barring some unexpected fiasco, I expect I'll prime tomorrow, then wet sand tomorrow night or Thursday morning for final paint Thursday.

And I just had the joy of realizing that I'd forgotten a couple things, e.g. a new dust cover for the lower bearing race, in my last parts order so I've now reached the point of having three orders from two scooter shops before any of them have shipped yet.
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chandlerman wrote:
And I just had the joy of realizing that I'd forgotten a couple things, e.g. a new dust cover for the lower bearing race, in my last parts order so I've now reached the point of having three orders from two scooter shops before any of them have shipped yet.
This sounds about right.
(Note - You will probably find a spare dust cover a few hours after the new one arrives.)
#scooterlife
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Call the shop that had 2 of your orders to get them combo'd and save the shipping at least.
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The nice thing about RE-shooting is you have had a chance to peep all the small dings and such that are noticeable when its all together and shiny. The second time around I knew where to spend more time on the bodywork.
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Yeah, but the legshield had a lot of adventures between the first time and this time. I think I'm finally going to get the drips hidden, though, and was able to wet sand several drips off the mudguard, too, since it's only getting clear coated.

I'm still worrying a little that the mudguard is going to be noticably glossier than the rest of the bike, too.

I'm pretty excited to be getting it back on the road either way.
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If you color sand, the whole bike should match up shiny-wise. Probably even if you just use 3000.
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Right now, I'm not planning on reshooting any of the frame but the legshield, also was not going to reshoot the motor side cowl daughter it's still pristine.

It would not be a big deal to wet sand and shoot clear coat on the cowl, but I don't really want to do the rest of the frame is I can avoid it, especially since the motor is still in the bike.

We'll see, I guess. One more data point in my bodywork adventure.
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Hear me out. If you DONT reshoot anything but the minimum stuff you are planning to do, then leave the rest alone- you can color sand (3000) the WHOLE thing and get an even gloss. It looks good on paper, at least when I thought it up.
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It re-begins...

I'll wet-sand with 600 grit because there's one drip on the cowl and a little bit of orange peel, but it should be all done by this time tomorrow.

This second time is going soooo much better than the first. Better weather (75, dry, and sunny), plus having done it before are all helping.
How it started
How it started
How it's going
How it's going
Even looks good up close!
Even looks good up close!
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Very nice.
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Spicy meatball that.
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what no video? :lol:

lookin good
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did you explain your setup before? I see a set of plastic "walls". do you have a "roof"? I think you also had a fan to blow out of the "tent"? refresh me please....
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I don't know if I did, so I'll run it down again.

First time, I had a dropcloth over the top, too, but it made things really stuffy, so this time I skipped it. It's just plastic walls and a dropcloth on the floor.

There's a box fan with a 20x20x1 air filter on it that is down by my feet aimed out the workshop's side door. That, combined with pulling air in from the top, kept the air in the "booth" clear & clean. I didn't water down the floor or anything, but I also felt like I had a lot less overspray floating around in the workshop, too. I also was very diligent about stopping to let the compressor catch up frequently, which meant the fan could also catch up, not that it ever seemed to get behind.
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RE drips- You may already know this technique, but if you put scotch tape on either side of the drip and then wrap sandpaper on a wood paint stir stick you can use the side edge of the stir stick to sand down just the high spots and the tape will (likely) prevent sanding the non drip area. I did this on this time around and worked like a charm.
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I didn't know that trick, but it makes perfect sense. Fortunately for me, it's a pretty small drip and I'm going to wet-sand it all before the color coat anyway, but for clear coat, I'm afraid that will probably be super-helpful.
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Popcorn emoticon Popcorn emoticon Popcorn emoticon
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A quick interim update. The legshield and floorboards look awesome. The cowl...not so much. Looking at the crap that's also on there, my best guess is that I had some paint stuck in the gun from yesterday that worked its way loose, spewing chunks onto the cowl and then increasing paint flow as a result.

Even if I just screwed up (also a distinct possibility), it's got drips galore that have to be fixed. I'll get to sand those down, then re-shoot color coat before clear coating anything.
Lookin' Good!
Lookin' Good!
Lookin' Driptastic! :(
Lookin' Driptastic! :(
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that cowl looks like the left side of my fender did

I'm sure you'll have it sorted in no time.

For a piece like that cowl, do you think it's better / easier to hang it so it is more like on the bike rather than up and down? I'd think the smooth uninterrupted motion would come more naturally side to side than up and down. Just wondering.
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Doing it hanging up there actually sucked. I think that was part of my problem. I don't have a good way of dealing with painting the inside, then the outside, though.

For the cleanup, it'll only be the outside, though, so I'll put it on my little table and do it that way. It's still a bit of a PITA to get all the way around it in tight quarters, but better than hanging.

I'm going to see if I can get it wet-sanded in an hour or so (that'll be 2 1/2 hours post-paint), in which case I'll be back on track here shortly.
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yeah the placement of the thing you are going to paint is really key, I can see

Seems like you have to be able to have full access for your gun in a comfortable way and a plan. I already figured out you want all that paint in any visable area to go on in one sitting (additional coats before fully dry), so it seems like if you wanted to do the front and back separately you'd need to mask off the opposite side to avoid overspray.

on my fender I did the bottom and just said "whatever" to any overspray that would happen from the top.
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all of that, plus you can leverage the sequencing, too. When I did the paint the first time, I paint the inside of the mudguard and cowls first, then let them flash while I did the frame. At that point, I was able to set them down (I had my card table in the booth with me that time) so I could shoot the outside. I need a small TV stand-sized table that was holding my camera that I'll use to re-shoot the cowl. Dumb mistake either way.
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I do cowls and fenders in 2 steps, inside first, then outside. Don't hang them, too wobbly. Set them on top of something you can either walk around or turn ... those rectangular boxes that top ends come in work great.
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SoCalGuy wrote:
I do cowls and fenders in 2 steps, inside first, then outside. Don't hang them, too wobbly. Set them on top of something you can either walk around or turn ... those rectangular boxes that top ends come in work great.
great minds think alike, mine was a shoe box - I nestled it inside as a cradle when doing the inside paint, and then set it over the top like you for the outside paint.
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One other trick a paint guy told me about with metal flake was to randomly (think figure 8) spray the final coat so the flakes wouldnt lay down evenly and look uniform. Randomization is key. You likely already know this.

Also, once you sand that run, you only need a single coat or so and you will be good.
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yeah, you do a final pass with the gun held back from the surface to get a final dusting of flakes.

The really annoying thing is that I just went out to check it and the paint is all still tacky, which it really shouldn't be at this point. It's on the low end of the temp range for the activator, though, so that is probably part of it, but unless it decides to kick soon, I'm not going to be sanding until tomorrow morning and will be pushing the time limit for a chemical bond of the color coat and clear coat.
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Fingers crossed. Keep us posted
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Morning update...paint is still a little bit tacky, but getting there. It was only 60F in the workshop when I went out to check things a little while ago, so I turned on a heater in the paint booth and expect it'll be sand-able shortly.

I think the temperature just dropped below the threshold for the activator. The thermometer in the shop said it was like 72 yesterday when I painted, and I used the mid-temp (70-80 degress) activator.

I was stressing overnight that something was "off" with the paint and I was going to have to clean it all off and re-do it, but then I realized when I got up this morning that the overspray on my arm had dried to a nicely unremovable finish pretty much right on schedule, so it's just going to take more time.

Yet another lesson learned.
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Looking great… might be better than the first time, no?

It's scary when it doesn't cure properly… unfortunately for me, each time that happened, had to go back and redo it… usually the wrong mix ratios…

Hope it hardens
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Ratios are good and, like I said, the overspray on my arm dried to the point that it's not coming off until I'm done using that layer of skin, so I'm not worried about the mix at this point.

And, yeah, it's looking a lot better, even if that cowl is going to need some respray love.

I screwed up the epoxy ratios on a batch of filler when I was fairing the hull of my boat. Nothing says fun like cleaning un-cured epoxy with filler in it off of ten square feet of hull.
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chandlerman wrote:
Ratios are good and, like I said, the overspray on my arm dried to the point that it's not coming off until I'm done using that layer of skin, so I'm not worried about the mix at this point.

And, yeah, it's looking a lot better, even if that cowl is going to need some respray love.

I screwed up the epoxy ratios on a batch of filler when I was fairing the hull of my boat. Nothing says fun like cleaning un-cured epoxy with filler in it off of ten square feet of hull.
Yeah sucks balls, cleaning that off… feel like a right idiot when doing it… it's worse when you get an amazing dustless finish.
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And it is with a tremendous sense of relief that I can announce that the operation was a more-or-less complete success!

Of course, I made a mess of the glovebox door, but that's going to have to wait because I don't want to lose the window for chemical bonding of the topcoat, so it'll get shot in an hour.
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Post-sanding
Post-sanding
The Sag-tastrophe
The Sag-tastrophe
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And the clear coat is done with only one minor issue, which is that the drop cloth blew against the edge of the cowl, but I think it'll be covered by the rubber trim, so I'm not losing sleep over it.

It's been kind've a stressful 48 hours getting this across the line, and while I still need to re-do the glovebox door, I'm more annoyed with myself than worried. It's only the outside, so I clear coated the inside and edges and it'll just need the outside sanded and re-shot.

And lucky for me, the bearings and dust cover to re-install the front fork showed up, so I can do that as soon as the paint gets suitably cured.
Good as new!
Good as new!
Better than ever!
Better than ever!
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You did good with the metal flake. Looks nice and even. Metallic's are hard...as you know.
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The flake hasn't been the hard part, it's just been the basic laying down paint without drips or sags, plus poor planning of things like how I was going to hold onto things while I painted them.

I'm taking a break right now for breakfast and letting all the solvents fully flash off after sanding and re-basecoating the glovebox door, plus sanding the drips off the mudguard and glovebox itself. The frame out OUT of the booth. It came out damn near perfect (one little sag, but you'll probably never spot it).

I also went ahead and wet sanded the motor side cowl for a re-coat of clear, because it's so much less shiny than everything else at this point that it looks dull as compared.

And perhaps the greatest indignity, the entire glovebox had developed pinholes while it cured. Since it was the only panel that had it and I did it in the middle of the sequence, I'm assuming I failed on surface prep, so I got to sand it down for a re-coat, too.

I feel like I'm in the masochistic phase of bodywork now. I know enough to get it right, but lack the experience to do so consistently.
I saw that and just said, "Mother Fucker."
I saw that and just said, "Mother Fucker."
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I hate painting. Some days it all goes well and others everything goes tits up.

I did the cab door of my VW bus inside and out. The first coat was perfect. The second coat not so much because it was harder to see the paint flowing out and glossing over so I got runs and dry spray. The sequence is important because you don't want to get overspray on a glossed over area that had already started to set up because it won't flow out. I learned that it's all about setup, the sequence of what you spray and lighting that will let you see the paint glossing over. I have never attempted metallics.

I learned how to razor down runs, sand them and polish them out but that is probably harder with metallics. When we have been looking at the same thing for so long, all we see are the flaws jumping out at us that no one else will see.
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Well, I shot the clearcoat over everything an hour or so ago. I'm letting it sit for a little while, then I'll go check on it. Hopefully no pinholes this time because the rest of it looks adequate.

You can't color sand drips off the metallic basecoats. The flakes align differently and you can still see them even when the surface is smooth. I had those issues the first time I did the legshield. I'm still pleasantly surprised how well the legshield and floorboards turned out this time around.
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chandlerman wrote:
Well, I shot the clearcoat over everything an hour or so ago. I'm letting it sit for a little while, then I'll go check on it. Hopefully no pinholes this time because the rest of it looks adequate.

You can't color sand drips off the metallic basecoats. The flakes align differently and you can still see them even when the surface is smooth. I had those issues the first time I did the legshield. I'm still pleasantly surprised how well the legshield and floorboards turned out this time around.
Looks like you've got a little H2O in your airline. Comes out in spits as you move the hose around.
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Location: Nashville

185 Days Since Last Explosion
 
Lucky
@chandlerman avatar
76 Sprint V, 63 GL, 62 VBB, 05 Stella, 66 Smallstate, 66 Lammy S3
Joined: UTC
Posts: 10527
Location: Nashville

185 Days Since Last Explosion
UTC quote
I'm declaring victory. Still managed to get some drips on the mudguard and some pinholes all over, but I'm out of mid-temp activator and don't want to open another can of clear coat, plus it looks good at six feet, so I'll take that. And it's all super-glossy now.

I'm definitely not going to be doing metal flake with clearcoat next time, which'll be the VBB. Just a nice, simple single-stage color that I can color sand if I mess up a spot or two. Probably bright orange.

Here's the glovebox, before and after. Look at the difference in the shine. Hence why I had to wet sand and shoot more topcoat on the motor cowling, too.
How it started
How it started
How it's going
How it's going
UTC

Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
 
Addicted
1968 VBB150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 703
Location: OC
UTC quote
Looking good!!
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