Modern Vespa

While replacing my fuel pump ( see topic-replacing the fuel pump, the story continues!) I had a good look round the engine for possible clues to my problem, and I noticed that the rear mud flap has a chunk torn out of it, so I bought a second hand one with the idea of replacing it, while the engine has dropped...
The mud flap is secured by one single bolt above the flap, that must have had a poor time in the 7 years its been there as it's welded tight from the years of rainwater splashing around...


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Ok, I thought "its just a simple task of getting the bolt off...but try as I can, it just won't move, now up to a point where it's starting to round off... Using a dremmel cutting disc, I cut a groove into the top of the bolt and tried to use a screwdriver after soaking it in WD40 for 2 days... it broke the tip of the screwdriver..... even using a fine tipped blowtorch didn't move it!

Can anyone recommend a powerful spray you can use to free up the bolt, before it's completely rounded off??

Graham

I'd use a centre punch, then drill the head off.

I think I heard about this stuff right here on MV. Can't vouch for it's wonder powers, but it has to beat WD-40 which from what I understand really isn't all that helpful.

Can't vouch for its availability your side of the pond, but you're in a civilized country, so has to be something similar.

https://blasterproducts.com/product/pb-blaster-penetrant/ Then there's that... Cuts to the chase....

That fastener is screwed into a "speed nut," a metal bracket that folds around the attachment point. (There are many names for this type of fastener; the scooter has dozens of them holding trim onto the frame.) The "speed nut" is made out of somewhat lower-quality steel than the fastener, and it is this which has corroded itself to your bolt.

If you can get your Dremel tool back there, file down the open face of the speed nut, where the bolt sticks out, until it lets go. Or cut the bolt as close to the speed nut as you can, even sacrificing a bit of the plastic on the flap if necessary, so you can remove the flap and have a bit more working room to drill or punch out the remaining stub. You could also cut the fold of the speed nut once the flap is out of the way.

As for penetrating oils, various US brands include Kroil, PB Blaster, and Liquid Wrench. Here's an entertaining test of them - turns out the best is a home-grown mix of automatic transmission fluid and acetone.
"https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xUEob2oAKVs"

Thanks Juan, I can see the "speed nut" it's similar to other one's used on parts of the GTS... I have a few of them knocking round, and I can see on this pic what and where it is... Yes, it might be tricky, and I might end up damaging the old mud guard, but that's ok, as I've got another one on order..

Thanks again!

Graham


speedlock shown (11)seized bolt (9)

Always use protective goggles, i never tire of repeating it.

That ATF/acetone mix has the nickname 'spookpis' in Afrikaans - meaning "ghost urine."
It works!

That's cool! I might have guessed that even without your translation.

I might try that next time- what's the mix? 50/50?

Graham

Cut and pasted from another place.

"I know that I have seen this topic, to some extent, on here before. At our BMAC (British Motorcycle Association of Colorado) meeting yesterday our president brought in a handout for the members on the subject - in print. "Magical Mystery Fluid Revealed", I will just touch on the highlights to keep it short. In 2007 "Machinist's Workshop Mag. tm" published information on various penetrating oils including subjective tests of many of the popular penetrants. The following list is the results of their test with the control being the torque in foot pounds required to remove a nut from a bolt in a "scientifically rusted" environment.
Penetrant ------------------------------------------ Average Load
None ------------------------------------------------ 516 Ft. Lbs.
WD-40 ---------------------------------------------- 238 Ft. Lbs.
PB Blaster ----------------------------------------- 214 Ft. Lbs.
Liquid Wrench ------------------------------------ 127 Ft. Lbs.
Kano Kroil ------------------------------------------ 106 Ft. Lbs.
ATF*/Acetone Mix --------------------------------- 53 Ft. Lbs.

ATF= Automatic Transmission Fluid

The ATF/Acetone mix was a "home brewed" mix of 50/50 automatic transmission fluid and acetone which proved to be better than any of the commercial brands of penetrant on a removing a nut rusted onto a bolt. No matter which penetrant is used they all require a period of time to wick down into the threads, but because acetone has an extremely low dynamic viscosity, it's thin, it gets into the threads quicker than the other products with the ATF following shortly behind for lubrication. Expecting comments!!!"

Graham

I thought the same thing.

Try as I could, I just can't get the bloody bolt off despite using a dremell tool and removing the speed nut!

Nearly seven years of rust has welded the thing on, so it's time to go medieval and drill the bugger out. I've bought a bolt extraction tool, and with a 50/50 mix of transmission fluid and acetone applied to the bolt, might finally get it out! The bolt looks like it's made of hardened steel, so this should be fun!

Graham

Penetrating oil (good options listed above) and a manual impact tool might also solve this issue.

Hope one of these options in this thread will get the job done.