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Hi

I have a lml vespa nv 1989 model which is almost similar to vespa px. I am currently restoring the vehicle and it's the first vehicle I am trying to restore. However I came across some difficulty in installing the ignition assembly and front fork. Any help on these will be so helpful.

I would like to know if there is a correct position for the front fork to go inside (like wheel should be extreme left or should be aligned towards us) ? I am asking this because I see a curved place and a notch in the fork and I believe it's where the lock mechanism comes into place.

Also how should we determine the position of the lock block. ? Normally it goes in with the T shape looking outward of the scooter isn't it ? If that is so, what should be the switch position of the barrel ? Should that be in on/off or in lock position.

And in the ignition switch bought by me, the switch is able to rotate 360 degree ? Isn't that faulty ? I guess there should be only 3 lock rotations and in the on position, ignition switch should pass the continuity test isn't it ?

Regards
Praphul
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Welcome to the forum!

I would strong suggest adding pictures so we can see what you are looking at.

The fork should be able to slide in with wheel facing forward. For you lock mechanism, are you sure it is still functioning? A lot of older bikes have had the locking flapper break off over the years.
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Thanks. I didnt understand by what is meant by a locking flapper. The only way to test whether a locking function works or not is to fully install the fork and the key lock block isnt it ?


Here are the list of images so that the issue is better understandable
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
I am not sure to which location the key should be set while installing the lock block and ignition switch. Below is the diagram in which the key is set to lock position
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
The location of OFF position
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text
Last and finally ,
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Confusion arises as explained in the diagram. Since the wheel facing towards us aligned with the center of the scooter, what should be the relative position of the lock block and switch ?

Kindly let me know if more information is required.
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You have the switch rotated 180°. Get everything in OFF position and here's a simple drawing of how the correct order should be on the frame...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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Thanks Safiz.

The way you have explained is very well and fantastic but I was not getting a continuity when I checked with the multimeter in the ON position.

I tried opening the switch and found that there are two thin metal strips placed in a semi circular pattern. And in my case when I turn the knob to the ON position, the metal which sits on a spring was not getting into contact with the semi circular strip.

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

Why have they made a provision for two wires as here ? Is to de-solder the existing wires and make connection through that two holes ? If I make new connections through those two holes, I feel everything will work as expected. of course with the assumption that the metallic connector will touch the semi circular metal strips getting a con

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


There is also another slot where I can place that metallic connector and spring but this will result in getting continuity for OFF and LOCK position whereas no continuity for ON position. Am I being wrong here or is it how it is supposed to be ?

External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text


For the circuit to complete and engine to start, continuity should be there in the ON position isn't it ?
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You should not get a continuity in ON position. The contacts get shorted only in OFF position, so as to "kill" the engine by grounding the green wire that goes to the CDI. The other two contacts are there for a battery model, so then the switch would have 4 wires...
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Thank you so much Safis. Everything makes sense now. Time to complete the scooter works as soon as possible.
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Now the new problem is that the lock block interferes with the fork when in OFF position. During the initial installation it doesn't interefere but as soon as I change the key to ON and then OFF , there is a bit of interference causing the handle not to move freely. The interference is a very tiny bit which is protruding out into the hole.

Presently the situation is like the vehicle has got 2 lock position. One is at semi lock at OFF and total lock at LOCK position.

Is it due to the barrel and the zadi surround ?

The key barrel doesn't completely overlap with the positions marked in the ZADI surround.
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You probably put the lock body in at the wrong position so that turning the lock is misaligning the lock body to the fork hard stops. Took me a few tries when i did this until i got it in the right position. Sorry it's been a while so i can't really explain it well cause i haven't done it in a few years.
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Thanks swiss.

May I know the best procedure in installing the lock ? should I install the lock block and ignition switch , then install the zadi surround and lock barrel ? or is it the other way round ?

Also, is it possible to remove those lock blocks and switch when the fork is inside ? I mean in my case, I anyways put the fork inside and was thinking I could rectify this later. May be move the switch to ON position and remove the lock block ? But I am not sure if I will able to insert the lock block back inside if I do that ?
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I have almost finished rebuilding the vehicle but now this lock body alignment of these things remain yet to complete to perfection. The vehicle has a loss of power which needs to be inspected. However, loss of power I will be be updating after preliminary checkups.

Can anyone help me with this lock body alignment part ? I need to know if the procedure can be done with the fork inside or should I completely remove the fork and try it again ?

It is quite difficult to fit in the fork by myself as I might need a helping hand. Normally, do you guys do it by yourself or always have a helping hand in aligning the fork ?
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I'm vague on the process cause its been a couple years but I think you can do it with fork in. All the parts slide out if you turn the fork to the locked position.

I remember doing it with no clue like you and just putting parts in and out to see if everything lined up. Its trial and error if you are unsure. So just get in there and get your hands dirty. You'll know when its in correct cause the fork will turn properly, and the lock will work properly. If it dont work, try again!
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yes swiss. You are right. Thank you so much. Well, lot of learning ahead Getting the hands dirty around vespa is getting to be like a meditation process.
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