Sat Apr 10, 2021 1:56 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 10, 2021 1:56 pm linkquote
New tank and clean carb back in. Was hoping for a quick startup. Alas, weak spark so there is something either stator points or ht coil i need to look into.

Strange enough, when i put the tank in, the lml fuel tap rod is too short to make it back out the frame hole. Same with the one greasy sent me. I'm guessing this means the smallframe tanks have a longer fuel rod. I'll eventually have to find one of those. For now i can just stick my hand in the frame to turn the short rod on and off.







Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:06 pm

Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 x2 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 8202
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 x2 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 8202
Location: seattle/athens
Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:06 pm linkquote
Is your plug wet or dry? Sometimes these have a hard time getting their first sip of gas after everything's been apart. On my PK after it sits for a long time I have to pull the air filter and cover the carb intake with my thumb to get it fired up first time. If your plug is dry, try that.

Wish you were closer, I swap you a long tap lever for your short one
Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:56 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 10, 2021 2:56 pm linkquote
So remove the air filter and block intake to help it pull a stronger vacuum?

I think my plug was dry, but I'll get a second look and give that a shot.

I did check the points gap and it was within spec. But i need to figure out how to check the points/stator and ht coil with multimeter to make sure those are still good.
Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:55 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 10, 2021 3:55 pm linkquote
Plug wasn't dry but it was barely wet. Took the air box off and stuck fingers over hole and kick starting i could feel fuel spray so it's getting fuel. But it feels like it wants to turn over but just slightly too weak. Flywheel spins a little more but just didn't get enough spark to turn over and start.

https://youtu.be/_NcnkCW9SuU

I'll take the flywheel off next and check the stator and wiring.
Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:10 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat Apr 10, 2021 4:10 pm linkquote
Btw, what is the stock mixture screw setting for 19/19 carbs? I checked what this one was set at for mixture and idle before disassembling so i could reset exactly.

The mixture screw was set to 4.5 half turns out.
Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:23 pm

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: 21 Oct 2005
Posts: 8909
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: 21 Oct 2005
Posts: 8909
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
Sat Apr 10, 2021 9:23 pm linkquote
gah! i'm an idiot! i shoulda thrown some smallie gaskets in your package!

my bad dude!

-g
Sat Apr 10, 2021 11:44 pm

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2813
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2813
Location: London UK
Sat Apr 10, 2021 11:44 pm linkquote
Did you change the rings? Doesn't look like it has much compression.
Sun Apr 11, 2021 12:30 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Apr 11, 2021 12:30 am linkquote
No worries greasy, and i didn't change things yet Jack, was thinking the same but i wanted to try to get it started with minimal effort first. If stator and points check out and i still can't get it started then I'll order some rings and swap them out.

I tested plug against frame and the spark was barely there so i think this is the biggest starting issue to tackle first.
Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:35 am

Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sun Apr 11, 2021 5:35 am linkquote
swiss1939 wrote:
No worries greasy, and i didn't change things yet Jack, was thinking the same but i wanted to try to get it started with minimal effort first. If stator and points check out and i still can't get it started then I'll order some rings and swap them out.

I tested plug against frame and the spark was barely there so i think this is the biggest starting issue to tackle first.
Can you rent or buy a compression tester locally from an auto parts store. Don't get a harbor freight one, last one I bought from there was 40 psi off. Would save a lot of fooling around if the compression is say 50 psi instead of 100+
Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:02 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:02 am linkquote
I could. I should have brought mine but forgot.

Regardless, flywheel removal and a peek inside the junction box is revealing... Crusty as F.













Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:20 am

Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:20 am linkquote
Is the green wire the kill wire on a small frame also? Do you have a multimeter with you? Insulation in that area looks terrible. Maybe check resistance to ground, should read "OL" or open without the switch pressed.
Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:47 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Apr 11, 2021 6:47 am linkquote
Nope. Green is 6v to horn. Black is ground. Blue is to tail light and rear brake switch. Red is to kill switch and ht coil. Yellow to headlights and license plate light.







Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:43 am

Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2165
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2165
Location: Florence, OR
Sun Apr 11, 2021 8:43 am linkquote
Is that a floating coil wire in the top-left coil? Crusty AF is right!
Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:24 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Apr 11, 2021 9:24 am linkquote
qascooter wrote:
Is that a floating coil wire in the top-left coil? Crusty AF is right!
Nope that coil wire is just corroded with green corrosion at the end where it is soldered to the coil. The green just matches the backing paper so it looks like it's floating freely!

Stator removed and most of the wires are barely connected if at all. So its time to order some wires and ring connectors and spend an hour or two rewiring this stator! The brass screw holding the green wires together in the junction box was so corroded that it crumbled to dust when I went to remove it.

This is my first points ignition system and right off the bat I'm diving into a rewire/rebuild, and MJRally has been more than generous sharing his knowledge of these ignitions/wiring!


left most screw head turned to dust and left the screw body in there.


barely held on by threads.






also signs of a small fly side oil leak.

Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:01 am

Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2813
Location: London UK
 
Jet Eye Master
PX221 MHR, O tuned PX200, PX125 and some motorbikes
Joined: 14 Jun 2017
Posts: 2813
Location: London UK
Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:01 am linkquote
Thinking low compression is not the biggest issue now. To run a SF I think you just need the go wire and twist 2 others together. Can't remember which ones exactly.
Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:13 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:13 am linkquote
new condenser in order. Can't get any reading on multimeter with it. Also lots of corrosion on it.

The more I pull coils off the stator, the worse the wiring gets. Hopefully everything works with a refresh job.





Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:56 am

Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor, Ď75 V90 graffiti
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 271
Location: Madison WI
 
Hooked
Ď64 V90 survivor, Ď75 V90 graffiti
Joined: 30 May 2018
Posts: 271
Location: Madison WI
Sun Apr 11, 2021 11:56 am linkquote
If you need to replace terminal block this spare is yours. PM me your address and Iíll get it off to you.



Mon Apr 12, 2021 6:01 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Apr 12, 2021 6:01 am linkquote
Not sure but maybe this is the problem..



Mon Apr 12, 2021 2:11 pm

Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Mon Apr 12, 2021 2:11 pm linkquote
swiss1939 wrote:
Not sure but maybe this is the problem..
That is a mess, hope you took good pictures.
Thu Apr 15, 2021 6:27 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Apr 15, 2021 6:27 am linkquote
I did take pictures. Hopefully enough. Still waiting on last of the parts to rewire stator and hopefully get this running. In meantime i clay bar'd and waxed it. Cleaned up pretty well. Good enough for now. Eventually i will probably use this as one of my first body work attempts cause it's in decent shape where i wouldn't need to do any patch work, but could just focus on stripping, prepping and painting.

The leg shield dent is enough to spend some time on reforming. Plus I've come to the conclusion the headset was replaced or repainted as it's not original paint. It is cheap spray which comes off with clay bar. Doesn't appear they even did a good job on the headset cause it's sprayed straight over rust damage that wasn't smoothed out.





Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:11 am

Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2165
Location: Florence, OR
 
Ossessionato
79 P200E, 62 Allstate, 2008 Stella
Joined: 11 Jan 2006
Posts: 2165
Location: Florence, OR
Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:11 am linkquote
I don't know what it is, but that thing looks awesome Swiss! I love the cleaned up patina look on it...
Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:22 am

Member
Rally 200
Joined: 11 Apr 2021
Posts: 40
Location: Altrincham
 
Member
Rally 200
Joined: 11 Apr 2021
Posts: 40
Location: Altrincham
Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:22 am linkquote
Aye tis real nice 😎
Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:36 am

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
Thu Apr 15, 2021 8:36 am linkquote
Agree. I wouldnít paint it. Itís got a nice look to it as is. Focus on the mechanicals. I guarantee once you get it running youíre gonna want it make it go faster. Smallies are a hoot to ride and you can turn them into little sleepers without too much investment. Thatís what Iíd do anyway.
Thu Apr 15, 2021 9:22 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Apr 15, 2021 9:22 am linkquote
It's got freckles. That's why it looks so good. I was thinking for now applying some subtle decals to suit the style.

Something like this first image on the left side cowl.
I want to find some sort of black foil that i can apply over the paint and then rub some battle damage into the overlay to add some aged wear to.

And for the leg shield opposite the Vespa badge apply a similar aged decal to it of this second image.

It's got that whole dirty worn space battle feel to it. And yes in the future when i have all my other scooter projects running, i will eventually tune it. Currently just trying to get it running in stock condition. I'm also still not even sure if these cases are the newer cases that can accept bigger kits.

As far as immediate upgrades, i can already tell from rolling around while sitting on it that the front shock is going to need upgrade at minimum and possibly a damper as the front dives forward easily with just brake applied while rolling slowly in the driveway.





Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:32 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:32 pm linkquote
Does anyone have a working three coil stator for v100 with no battery but bar end indicators? Mj and i have been trying to get mine working after i rewired it. It was so decayed that I'm making educated guesses on some of the rewiring. If anyone has similar can you take detailed pictures of which coils have which color wires and which colors have continuity with each other and what the resistance values are for each color?

Mjs stator value threads doesn't have a specific exact matching stator. I'm also trying to figure out specifically which coil has the blue wire as mine was so decayed they all looked black even after scraping the remaining covering.


Rewired


Original





Last edited by swiss1939 on Mon Apr 19, 2021 7:30 pm; edited 3 times in total
Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:43 pm

Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: 21 Oct 2005
Posts: 8909
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
 
Sergeant at Arms
Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
Joined: 21 Oct 2005
Posts: 8909
Location: The state of insanity, SoCal
Mon Apr 19, 2021 5:43 pm linkquote
Iíll check here in a bit.

Might be able to help.

Iíd keep it as is and make it a ripper. F the bodywork.

-g
Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:19 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:19 pm linkquote
greasy125 wrote:
Iíll check here in a bit.

Might be able to help.

Iíd keep it as is and make it a ripper. F the bodywork.

-g
Any help would be awesome!

I get zero spark. Just ordered another ht coil to rule that out.
Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:48 pm

bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
 
bodgemaster
63 GL, 76 Super (x 2), 74 Primavera (x 2), 06 Fly 150
Joined: 26 Sep 2013
Posts: 5920
Location: So Cal
Tue Apr 20, 2021 2:48 pm linkquote
This might be what youíre looking for. Let me know if you need more pics.



Thu May 13, 2021 2:56 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu May 13, 2021 2:56 pm linkquote
I gave up trying to fix it myself. Sent it in to Matt @ Scooter Mercato to rewire. He called and asked some info about the bike and mentioned that he recognized at some point in this bike's past life, someone replaced a coil on the stator with an incorrect coil for the bike. He said the stator had a 1958 VBB battery ignition coil on it, of which he hadn't seen any others previously until a few days prior when he received some new parts of which one of the coils he received was this same coil. He told me he thought it was hilarious cause he was like "well i'll never see one of these things again" and two days later my stator showed up with it!

Long story short, he replaced that coil and the points, rewired it all and sent it back same day.


I received it today, threw it on the bike and connected the ground and stator red to ht coil. Left everything else disconnected, and made sure points were set up properly, then started it up on first kick! Unfortunately I had the carb idle screw set up wrong, it was revving so high at idle, and I didn't have the kill switch engaged. Did the typical panic what do i do? how do i get it to shut down? Didn't want to try reaching for the stator green wire to ground it as it was right next to the high speed flywheel spinning. So I closed the fuel tap and waited the two minutes for it to die from fuel starvation.

That first run in who knows how many years produced quite the immense amount of billowing white smoke that was shooting out the front yard across the neighborhood like the house was on fire! Too bad I didn't have my camera recording video for that first kick over.

I did get first start video of the second start for you guys though!

And as you can see from the clutch video.. gonna need to crack open the clutch and replace all the clutch plates cause shifting into gear while holding the clutch lever fully depressed causes the bike to jump forward and die instantly. I'm guessing those clutch plates are stuck together forever! But at least I planned for this and bought some clutch plates to replace them, but now I'll have to get a little more dirty than I was hoping to before I can take it for the first ride.

MJ Rally was an immense help over text for a few days explaining to me how to set up the points and test/rewire the stator. Much appreciated buddy!

Matt came through with the stator repair, and also gave me a ton of info I didn't know about the V100 when he called. He explained that these bikes never came with the bar end indicators, even the canadian/european models. They were either added at the dealership if they were required by law at the time, or were applied after the customer took it home when required by law in order to register it. Matt is the man!

First start in decade or more (technically second start!)? Took a few more kicks on second start cause I turned the idle screw way down to keep it from racing, but turned it too far down so it wouldn't start. Took a minute before I figured it out.

Idling fine once I turned the idle screw down prevent it from racing out of control:

Clutch is f'ed. Time for new plates cause I cant get it into gear without it lurching forward and dying:

BTW, even after pounding on the fly side woodruff key trying and failing to remove it, then dremeling it, and finally drilling and tapping a screw into it in order to just barely lift it out of the hole it is friction seized into... it still started right up and runs. The fly sits on the crank with the key damaged beyond repair and unremovable. So there is proof you don't even need the woodruff key!

My many attempts through tons of heat, and various other methods to remove the key failed. I will need to replace the crank at some point in the future as the key is completely stuck for good.

Now on to the clutch repair...


woodruff key stuck for good. still runs with it like this!


aftermath of me trying like hell to remove this key.


tapped a screw in so I could clamp it and hammer out from below.


still couldn't remove even with this method and heat.

Thu May 13, 2021 3:55 pm

Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Thu May 13, 2021 3:55 pm linkquote
You might give this a try, cut a slit down the middle, with a cutting disk, you can get smaller versions for tighter turns.

https://www.harborfreight.com/diamond-rotary-cutting-discs-5-pk-69657.html

Then tap it inwards on both long sides with a chisel,

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dasco-Pro-Cold-Chisel-Kit-3-Piece-44/100173500
Thu May 13, 2021 5:07 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu May 13, 2021 5:07 pm linkquote
Yeah I tried all that. To really dremel it out with that tool would require removing the crank from the case as the dremel tool just can't get the right angle to get in there and cut it straight. Also tried just using a dremel thin bit to cut the middle out of the key by coming at it perpendicular to it and it was too risky. I knicked the crankshaft taper once and called it quits. Used tons of heat with punches trying to rotate it out. The thing is solid in there forever. Spent hours on it and im done with trying to remove it.

Aside from that, just pulled the plug after letting it run for 20 minutes to shoot those videos and this thing is jetted real rich. Plug is black and wet. I'm going back through my photos of the jets when I cleaned and rebuilt the carb to see what is currently in there. Similarly, the bike came with a be7 or be8 plug when it should have had a be6. I swapped in the be6 plug for the first start and even with the hotter plug its way rich.

After going through my carb rebuild photos, I failed to get specific images of the jet sizes. Only have one photo where a jet size is visible.

Stock jetting:

main jet: 74
choke jet: 42
idle jet: 60
slide: 7938.1


My one photo shows the starter jet which is a 60, and I pulled the idle jet to check, its a 42 as its supposed to be. I'll have to pull the carb tomorrow and get a look at what the main jet is.

Given the idle jet is correct, I'm assuming my idle adjuster screw is too far out? I'm not even sure if this carbs idle adjuster screw works the same as the 20/20? screw all the way in.. no fuel all air make it leaner? Back the screw out and you let more fuel in with same amount of air make it richer?


starter jet on left is a 60.

Thu May 13, 2021 5:59 pm

Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
 
Molto Verboso
Vespa
Joined: 19 Jun 2007
Posts: 1298
Location: California
Thu May 13, 2021 5:59 pm linkquote
Swiss the 100 looks killer but the key not so much
Thu May 13, 2021 6:57 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu May 13, 2021 6:57 pm linkquote
hibbert wrote:
Swiss the 100 looks killer but the key not so much
Thanks Hibbert, I'm gonna leave the key as is until i split the cases long in the future. At that point I'll most likely buckle to inner urge to tune it, and go crazy with it including new crank and bigger bore kit.

Just watched robot video on setting timing on points ignition and i realized i need to set the points gap more precisely as i just set them wide to start just to make sure it ran. So they are too wide right now and the timing is too advanced. I'll get to that this week to set it correctly.
Fri May 14, 2021 4:52 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri May 14, 2021 4:52 pm linkquote
Spent some time trying to debug the turn signals today. Hooked up the new turn signal switch and nothing happens. Got everything disconnected and spent time with multimeter trying to reverse engineer how everything works. Kinda figured it out and reconnected everything the way i thought it was supposed to work and started engine up. Only one indicator just barely flashed extremely slowly and very dim. The other one didn't flash at all. I know the festoon bulbs are good cause they have continuity when removed from indicators and tested both ends of the bulb.

Not sure what's going on with them, thinking maybe the flasher is bad? Headlight and tail parking light works fine. Brake light doesn't work as well. Haven't checked tail light bulb yet to confirm the bulb is fine.

Gonna have to figure out what 6v flasher to get to test if the old one is broken. Photo of old one attached. Also not sure if the flasher is directional connections. Didn't try swapping the connectors to see if that helped.


6v flasher I'm guessing







Tue May 18, 2021 11:50 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue May 18, 2021 11:50 am linkquote
Took the turn signals off and broke them apart to clean and rewire them. The contacts for the bulbs were crusty and someone had done a poor job splicing those wires in the past. Discovered a splice held together by twisting and taping. I just don't understand why people don't solder and heat shrink slices like that. It takes an extra two minutes and saves so much trouble.

Dunked the pinch bolts for the positive wire for both turn signals in vinegar then a light coat of oil applied before cutting new blue and brown wires for each signal. Also sanded the aluminum frame and bulb negative contact to clear off corrosion and get a good continuity for each signal again. A few more basic electrical maintenance things like new connectors soldered on at places and everything went back together working. The old school flasher works but just barely. Very slow and inconsistent flashing. Waiting on a replacement flasher to solve that problem.

But i created another electrical problem while running and testing the turn signals. Low beam on the headlight bulb blew out, which also seems to have taken the rear plate light out. High beam headlight still works. Brake light still doesn't work but i didn't bother getting into that one since i blew the low beam and plate light. Gonna try to replace the headlight bulb first to see if that brings back the rear plate light. If all goes well with that, then I'll dig into the brake light issues.

Still waiting on clutch removal tool and new clutch plates so i can get this thing rolling under it's own power.
Tue May 18, 2021 4:34 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Tue May 18, 2021 4:34 pm linkquote
Anyone have a good site to buy 6v bulbs from? I have found all of the bulbs I need from mercato, except one.. the brake light on this v100 with turn signals calls for a 6v 15w ba15s bulb by design in the addendum wiring diagram from the original manual, because it does not have a 5w pilot light. So that extra 5w was shifted to the brake light in their addendum. The bulb pulled out of the bike for brake is a correct 6v15w Osram 7520 bulb. This one is still good, but I am trying to stock up on spare of each of the bulbs I need for this bike, including the headlight and plate light which were both blown. Can't find these Osram 7520 bulbs anywhere... or any other 6v 15w ba15s bulbs. Neither Mercato, Scooterworks or SIP carry this 6v15w bulb. They all only carry a 6v10w bulb.

I've also searched my usual bulb sites which always have the obscure film lighting bulbs I need.. bulbamerica.com and superbrightleds.com. Also checked autozone but they don't even carry 6v bulbs.

Would love to know if anyone has a source for 6v bulbs in general, or more specifically this 6v15w bulb.


Osram 7520 6 volt 15 watt ba15s bulb (stock brake like for v100 w/turn signals)





Tue May 18, 2021 6:56 pm

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Tue May 18, 2021 6:56 pm linkquote
Just get bulbs to fit and add a 6v regulator and don't try to balance that system with the correct wattage bulbs. The flashing and all it's gonna be week but the regulator will help with the bulbs from blowing while flashing.

Going 12v with an ac to dc regulator will get brighter signals...and 12v may also help if adding a larger jug down the line. Sitting at a light with 6v turn signals are not bright when the idle is low. Ducati type et3 stator works great without the cost of variable ignitions.

Great project n good luck!
Wed May 19, 2021 4:45 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed May 19, 2021 4:45 am linkquote
rowdyc wrote:
Just get bulbs to fit and add a 6v regulator and don't try to balance that system with the correct wattage bulbs. The flashing and all it's gonna be week but the regulator will help with the bulbs from blowing while flashing.

Going 12v with an ac to dc regulator will get brighter signals...and 12v may also help if adding a larger jug down the line. Sitting at a light with 6v turn signals are not bright when the idle is low. Ducati type et3 stator works great without the cost of variable ignitions.

Great project n good luck!
I've read in many other threads here where hodge advised against adding a regulator but said best is to just use the correct bulbs for 6v. In the future when i rebuild the engine I'll change over to 12v but I'm the meantime I'll stick to the old school lighting. I'm not planning on using this scoot for anything serious or much at night.

I'm guessing if i add a6v regulator that i need two of them, one for each lighting coil as the lights are split based on their source coil?
Wed May 19, 2021 9:02 am

Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Molto Verboso
2007 Stella 225
Joined: 02 Nov 2019
Posts: 1744
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
Wed May 19, 2021 9:02 am linkquote
swiss1939 wrote:
I've read in many other threads here where hodge advised against adding a regulator but said best is to just use the correct bulbs for 6v. In the future when i rebuild the engine I'll change over to 12v but I'm the meantime I'll stick to the old school lighting. I'm not planning on using this scoot for anything serious or much at night.

I'm guessing if i add a6v regulator that i need two of them, one for each lighting coil as the lights are split based on their source coil?
I would say you are correct about needing two regulators. I've been eyeing two regulators for my Allstate. I figure if they are ever actually activated it should help save my bulbs, otherwise their just hanging out doing nothing.

Can you measure what you're getting for AC voltage output? You might be able to use one of these if the AC voltage is between 10-18 VAC. Who knows these draw so little current .10 amps or about 1 watt, you may need a 12 volt regulator because of a lack of load.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/1156-boat-and-rv-led-light-bulb-18-smd-led-tower-ba15s-retrofit-base-325-lumens/2337/720/
Wed May 19, 2021 6:07 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed May 19, 2021 6:07 pm linkquote
Lots of work today (no electrical work) as my package from mercato arrived with the sf clutch removal tool and a malossi clutch plate kit with both the cork and metal plates and a new spring.

Clutch removed real easy after recruiting a little help from my father to break the rear hub nut off as I couldn't do it by myself cause the bike wanted to roll off the stand. Also took some force to remove the clutch nut. After that the task is real simple. Old clutch removed and instantly you can see why this thing jumps and stalls even with clutch lever pulled. Removed both the cork and metal plates from the clutch basket and they were all stuck together in one lump even while tapping them on the ground to try to break them free!

All the metal plates including the top and bottom plate had hardened cork fragments stuck all over them. So I had to soak the metal plates in scolding hot ultrasonic cleaner for an hour. Even after that, I had to scotch brite the metal plates to remove the cork fragments, then use 400 grit sandpaper to clean up the plates and smooth them out.

I opened the malossi clutch plate kit and I'm not sure if its a defect or intentional, but the kit included 3 metal plates and 4 cork plates, but.. 1 of the metal plates is the same thickness as the original metal plates.. approx 1.54mm thick. The other two metal plates included in the malossi kit are super thin at 0.83mm thick. I only need 2 metal plates and 3 cork plates for this clutch. Does it matter if the 2 metal plates are 0.83mm thick each instead of 1.55mm thick each? I think that would throw the clutch action off cause the clutch is no longer the same thickness.

I could use 1 original plate and the 1 malossi plate that is the same thickness.. I'll just have to scrub and sand one of those metal plates to clean the cork fragments off it. Or should I just use 2 of the new malossi plates.. either 1 thick/1 thin or 2 thin?

After that I spent about an hour cleaning the 40 yr old paper gasket fragments off the sealing surfaces for the clutch cover and the rear hub plate with rear hub oil seal. Cork plates are soaking overnight so I'll finish reassembling the clutch and maybe finally get a test drive in by noon tomorrow!

EDIT: sip descriptor for this plate kit says it's an MHR plate kit intended for more tuned motors and you are supposed to use all 4 cork plates and the 3 metal plates with 2 different thicknesses. I'm assuming the extra cork and thinner metal plates equals out to the same thickness as the original 2 metal 3 cork setup thickness. This engine is not tuned, so I'll reuse the original metal plates and just use 3 of the new cork plates.


rear hub plate/brake pad holder with oil seal nice and clean!


clutch sealing surface with 40 yr old paper gasket refusing to come off without some effort.


cleaned off the paper gasket and sealing surface for re-assembly


bottom of clutch basket has some crude welding. is this stock? Must have been friday at 5pm for the italians cause they were in a rush welding this thing!


rear hub drum mounting plate. lots of rust from 40 yrs of sitting.


look at that rust!


not a bearing. metal bushing? this goes in the drum mounting plate center and sits behind the rear hub nut.


removed the clutch plates from basket, and they stuck together refusing to separate!


40 yr old cork hard as a rock and sticky.


clutch top metal plate after 20 min of scrubbing and sanding to clean the cork fragments off. Original plates with cork still stuck on.


malossi sf clutch plate kit


original metal plate thickness


new malossi single thicker metal plate.


the other two malossi metal plates are much thinner.

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