Thu May 20, 2021 1:42 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu May 20, 2021 1:42 pm linkquote
Advertised max speed: 49.7 mph
Max speed w/ tailwind (GPS): 47 mph (speedo pegged to 80 kph)
Max speed w/ headwind (GPS): 38 mph

1'st gear has almost no torque.
2'nd gear has slightly more but not by much.
3'rd gear is only usable gear.

Throttle tube and shifter are very stiff, and gears are extremely clunky when shifting!

Kinda loving this smallframe size. Now if only it had more torque and an extra gear!



Sat May 22, 2021 12:16 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sat May 22, 2021 12:16 pm linkquote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
I would say you are correct about needing two regulators. I've been eyeing two regulators for my Allstate. I figure if they are ever actually activated it should help save my bulbs, otherwise their just hanging out doing nothing.

Can you measure what you're getting for AC voltage output? You might be able to use one of these if the AC voltage is between 10-18 VAC. Who knows these draw so little current .10 amps or about 1 watt, you may need a 12 volt regulator because of a lack of load.

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/miniature-and-subminiature-bulbs/1156-boat-and-rv-led-light-bulb-18-smd-led-tower-ba15s-retrofit-base-325-lumens/2337/720/
I had some time yesterday to take a voltage reading on my brake and plate running light sockets. This is a 6v system so i was not expecting the 10-14vac. Brake light when pedal pressed gets 5.8v idling and about 8 under full throttle. And even after cleaning all the contacts in the brake light circuit, it still won't turn on. I'm gonna have to spend some time debugging this one.



Sun May 23, 2021 8:20 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun May 23, 2021 8:20 am linkquote
Turn signals fixed with prior disassembly, cleaning of contacts and most importantly a new 6v flasher for scooter works.

Also found a convenient metal tab on inside of seat tunnel for holding the flasher unit. I'm sure it was intentional for that purpose, but still cool to discover instead of the way it was when i got it. Just sitting on the tunnel floor below the carb where oil was covering it.



Sun May 23, 2021 2:00 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun May 23, 2021 2:00 pm linkquote
Got an SHB 19/19 jetting/setting issue that someone may know what is going on.

I'm assuming it might be air leak at the carb to engine?

I am trying to set the air mix screw and tickover screw to have the engine settle to idle fast after applying the clutch lever and removing throttle, but no matter what I do it either settles to idle in a long drawn out downward curve, or hangs at really high idle for a while then comes down quick.

I've tried setting the air mix screw all over the place to see if I could solve it and neither over 1.5 turns out or under 1.5 turns out seems to solve it. In fact, what I would expect to be the symptom for leaner air mix setting is what happens when its set to less than 1.5 turns out.

- When I set to 1.5 turns air mix screw the idle settles down very slowly over about 30 seconds to a minute.

- When I set air mix screw to over 1.5 turns out, it idles extremely high (like under full throttle) for a while then randomly comes down fast to a normal idle.

- When I set to less than 1.5 turns out, it still takes forever to slowly settle to idle, but just seems weaker idle.

sound file of me driving on back roads then occasionally coming to a stop sign and waiting for the idle to settle down:
https://soundcloud.com/sean-simpson-231097141/v100-idle-slow-settle-issue

Like I said, I'm guessing it might be carb to engine air leak because I have the carb mounting bracket that tightens down and holds it onto the engine manifold tight, but my carb still can rotate around on the manifold. It can't be pulled off the manifold with the mounting bracket tightened down, but it definitely rotates around easily on that manifold.
Sun May 23, 2021 2:20 pm

Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 x2 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 8202
Location: seattle/athens
 
Style Maven
74 50s x3 78 P200 x2 84 Cosa PK50XL2 58 AllState 68 Sprint 80 50special '66(?) Super125
Joined: 22 Nov 2010
Posts: 8202
Location: seattle/athens
Sun May 23, 2021 2:20 pm linkquote
Classic air leak after the carb. Pack the carb slots w/ silicon and make sure that felt ring is in place which is just before the carb goes on, and freshly greased, then push the carb back against it TIGHT before you tighten the clamp screw. Also make sure the manifold is tight to the cylinder w/ a good gasket and flat manifold flange. How to have fun in small places!

Good Luck!
Sun May 23, 2021 2:47 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Sun May 23, 2021 2:47 pm linkquote
V oodoo wrote:
Classic air leak after the carb. Pack the carb slots w/ silicon and make sure that felt ring is in place which is just before the carb goes on, and freshly greased, then push the carb back against it TIGHT before you tighten the clamp screw. Also make sure the manifold is tight to the cylinder w/ a good gasket and flat manifold flange. How to have fun in small places!

Good Luck!
Thanks Terry, that's what I feared. I did put a brand new felt ring in with fresh grease and tried to push tight before tightening the clamp screw, but I have not done the silicone on carb slots? I'm guessing you mean the slots on the manifold that go lengthwise where the carb slides in? To get rid of the gaps between the slots? Do you do this before you mount the carb and let it dry? then make sure the manifold ID is clear of silicone for the carb to slide in cleanly before sticking the carb in and tightening the bracket. Or do you just mount the carb tightly against the felt ring with bracket and once it is on, just apply a healthy coating of silicone around the manifold over the slots?
Mon May 24, 2021 12:27 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Mon May 24, 2021 12:27 pm linkquote
Pulled everything out and i forgot there were slits on the carb body to manifold, was thinking there was just slits on the manifold.

I need to silicone the slits on the carb body output right?

Also took a video of the manifold play in the frame. Should it have this much play or do i need to tighten that as well to prevent air leaks? The manifold itself is tight, it's just the outer tube that clamps to the carb output.

Edit: looking at the parts diagram to try to figure out how to tighten or remove the through frame manifold, i see that outer tube that clamps to the carb is held in place by a circlip so i guess the free play wiggle is normal. On inspection i do have a small tear in the rubber bellows that looks like an inflated tube that goes over that whole section. Wondering if that is related to any carb air leaks or if it's just a cosmetic bellows to prevent dirt oil and large air flow into the tunnel and carb area?

best I got:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/1CEQPsPdmVwQdsYm9

http://www.scootermercato.com/Scooter-Parts/Bellow/71813

Simple job siliconing those slits shut.


Silicone these slits


Not these



Wed May 26, 2021 7:14 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed May 26, 2021 7:14 pm linkquote
Return to idle is much better but still slower than my stella. Guessing its a heavier flywheel thing and not a carb setting thing.

But on to electrical. Got my replacement bulbs in the mail today and with a new headlight, plate light and the original brake light bulb in, both the headlight and plate light work great. Turn signals work great now. But the damn brake light still doesn't work when brake pedal pressed. I even tried a 10w bulb which seems all other similar models call for instead of the 15w bulb this one calls for. Still no work.

I'm going to have to spend some time in the morning with a multimeter and the schematic to see if I can figure this out. I was getting 6v at the socket for that bulb and continuity when disconnected at all the right places.. but now I'm thinking continuity might not have been where it needed to be going through, but possibly shorted wires that are skipping the brake light route. No clue.

Just spent a few hours combing through really old MV posts regarding 6v brake like circuit issues and I've come out with possibly a check to see if the coil is providing the right current by checking at the junction what the voltage is between the blue and yellow wires (suggested on old thread for slightly different wiring) with brake switch open and closed. Reading my schematic I really don't think the blue and yellow wires share a circuit, but instead the blue and green wires do. I believe the green wire feeds the handlebar switch that powers both the headlight and horn at the front of the bike, and also connect to the brake/plate light in the back. The turn signals are on their own circuit with the yellow wire and share a connection to the ignition coil/red wire. So I think this 6v check would need to be between the blue and green wires.



The only other thing I can think of is I'd have to remove the whole wiring harness and check it for similar decaying issues to the stator plate.. which is not far fetched.

I did take it for a ride around back streets tonight after dark and the plate light is bright! Headlight also works fine enough. Turn signals very visible at night.. not visible at all during the daylight. Just can't get it registered or really use it beyond these back streets until I get that brake light sorted.
Thu May 27, 2021 12:32 am

Enthusiast
PK50XL,PK100S,ET3
Joined: 26 Aug 2020
Posts: 70
Location: UK
 
Enthusiast
PK50XL,PK100S,ET3
Joined: 26 Aug 2020
Posts: 70
Location: UK
Thu May 27, 2021 12:32 am linkquote
Have you checked out the switch at the brake pedal end? I've managed to unplug a cable when putting the brake pedal back in, so it could be something as simple as that.
Wed Jun 02, 2021 5:39 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Jun 02, 2021 5:39 pm linkquote
Matchlessman wrote:
Have you checked out the switch at the brake pedal end? I've managed to unplug a cable when putting the brake pedal back in, so it could be something as simple as that.
Yes I cleaned it and reconnected it and confirmed it had continuity. That is not it.

But I did have an idea from your suggestion.. its a brake switch that turns the brake light on when the circuit is broken as the switch opens.. so all I needed to do to test the switch was disconnect it while the bike is running and the light should just be on all the time. Unfortunately when I just tested this theory by disconnecting the brake switch and leaving the ends of the switch cables dangling away from everything, the brake light did not come on.

So this means one of two things.. there is an issue with the wiring inside the frame, maybe a short that is grounding the brake switch wiring to the same circuit, so that no matter what I do with the brake switch, the wiring always has continuity with itself as if the switch is in it's default state even when it isn't, so that the brake light can never get energy, or the stator plate is not set up to correctly feed the power to the brake light. The stator plate I highly doubt has issues as I sent it into Scooter Mercato and they know what they are doing, so i'm left with the realization that I probably need to rip the wiring harness out of this frame. ugh!

Either way, I did some multimeter tests on the junction box while engine was running to see what kind of voltage I was getting based on bridging different wire combinations.

Pictures and values below:


Blue to Yellow: 16.34v AC. These two circuits should not be connected.. Blue is the brake light switch circuit. Yellow powers the turn signals.


Blue to Green: 0.79v AC. This should be connected I believe. Green powers headlights and horn and is bridged to the blue at tail light to share voltage when brake light is on.


Black Ground to Blue: 0.00v AC. This has continuity so I'm not sure what the reading is supposed to be.


Black ground to Yellow turn signals: 16.18v ac. This should not have continuity in this default state.. turn signals are off.


Black ground to Green: 0.81v ac. This should also not have continuity right now as I had the headlight power switch turned off.

Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:04 pm

Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 2511

 
Ossessionato
1963 VBB2T
Joined: 07 Nov 2012
Posts: 2511

Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:04 pm linkquote
Following and learning.

Can it be a wire in your bar switch or up at your headlite? But then again if it’s the rear brake lite circuit, those wires don’t come close to headlite.
Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:11 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Wed Jun 02, 2021 6:11 pm linkquote
Lynnb wrote:
Following and learning.

Can it be a wire in your bar switch or up at your headlite? But then again if it’s the rear brake lite circuit, those wires don’t come close to headlite.
I highly doubt it's anything related to wiring in the headset or switches as the brake switch wiring and tail light wiring are independent of anything up in the handlebars. There is only one white wire that connects from headlight switch to tail plate light to turn that on with the lights. This shares a ground in series with the brake light at the tail, but the functionality of the brake light is solely dependent upon this circuit from brake switch to stator plate which skips the brake light until that circuit is broken, in which case the power has no where to go but through the brake light bulb. All of that is not connected in any way to the front of the bike.
Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:29 pm

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Wed Jun 02, 2021 7:29 pm linkquote
Just for giggles clean up the grounds at the rear light. All areas around the rear light and frame where the mounting screws touch metal should be clean.

You can test the light with the stator by running a long wire with alligator clips from stator 's blue wire to the brake bulb wire connection.
A test light works great, too. Just ground it and stick it in the bulb socket to see if it lights up.
Thu Jun 03, 2021 12:30 am

Enthusiast
PK50XL,PK100S,ET3
Joined: 26 Aug 2020
Posts: 70
Location: UK
 
Enthusiast
PK50XL,PK100S,ET3
Joined: 26 Aug 2020
Posts: 70
Location: UK
Thu Jun 03, 2021 12:30 am linkquote
I'm not sure if i have this correct but Black to Blue should always have connectivity.

1. Brake light off - connectivity through brake light switch (and brake light but path of least resistance is through switch?)

2. Brake light on - connectivity through brake light.


Can you separate the 2 blue wires at the junction box. If you isolate the switch side from the brake light side then it might make troubleshooting easier.
Thu Jun 03, 2021 11:12 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 03, 2021 11:12 am linkquote
Frustratingly stumped. I removed the tail light fixture from frame and the connections looked fine, but I still disconnected them and cut my own jumper wires. Disconnected the blue and yellow at junction box and then jumped the blue from stator to the tail light fixture brake contact. No work. Cut my own ground wire and connected to the tail light fixture brake ground contact and held against the engine other end. Still no work. Removed the bulb from fixture and just held jumpers to the bulb housing in correct spots. No work with the original 6v 15w bulb. So I tried same with a brand new 6v 10w bulb. Still no work. This is stator blue directly to the bulb itself. So I hooked up the multimeter and checked the blue stator to ground disconnected from everything else. Got a reading of 10v. its generating power, but the bulbs wont light up for some reason. I also tried connecting the yellow to bulb instead of blue.. still no work.

I even reconnected the blue and yellow wires back at the junction box and hooked up the multimeter to the original tail light wires disconnected from the tail light housing. This gave the same 10v power on blue to ground.

So I have no idea what is going on.. the wiring harness wires at the tail light work fine. the lighting fixture works fine. brand new bulbs have continuity when connected to multimeter.. and the stator plate is generating voltage.

I'm gonna try calling Matt at mercato to see if he has any thoughts or suggestions.


blue to black wiring harness disconnected from tail light housing. 10.5v generated with the brake switch removed from the equation.

Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:51 am

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:51 am linkquote
Replaced the tail light housing and reconnected everything except brake switch i left disconnected, and now i noticed the brake light works but only when the turn signals are on!

This was after i removed the tank to fix a small leak in the fuel tap. While i had the tank out, i tried to see how much slack was in the wiring harness in the tunnel to see if i could find the junction point where the wiring splits off to the brake switch. I'm thinking there is a short in the harness somewhere around this point where the wiring splits off to the headset and brake pedal. It's probably working when turn signals on now because i moved things around when tugging wires and possibly the shorts have made contact with the yellow wire for the turn signals.

Still haven't talked to Matt@mercato but I'm gonna try calling tomorrow to see if it's something just hooked up wrong or if not, what wiring harness they have that will be a direct swap.

Unrelated, I'm still contemplating the level of modification it would require to make a 90ss replica from this frame. I was operating on the assumption this frame length is 1665mm as the smallframes.com page for 100 says it's length is that, and i was going through my technica and other books to figure out which smallframe would be the closest to start from for minimal modifications. I figured a v90 from the technica specs is the closest in terms of measurements cause the overall length is the same as a 90ss at 1650mm.

This got me questioning the smallframe website measurement for this frame length as my v100 came with the original manual which is a v90 manual with printed addendum inserts for v100 unique changes to the specs in the v90 manual. Now it doesn't mention the overall length measurement in the manual, so it got me thinking.. What if smallframe website is wrong, and this is the same exact frame as the v90 given the inclusion of this manual suggests as much.

So I got the tape measure out and measured the overall length using the technica diagram for exact points to measure from. Turns out this frame is exactly the same overall length as both the v90 and 90ss. Also comparing the images of the fenders and engine door, etc it appears everything is exactly the same. Front fender looks to be exact, and the engine door is the same size as the v90 and 90ss engine door, which differs from the 50 engine door size, and also differs from the 100 sport in that this frame does not have a door for battery on the other side cowl, exactly the same as the 90ss.

This makes me think it could be within my capabilities to try to seriously create a replica 90ss as i ideally wouldn't have to cut the frame down to length at the tunnel. Hopefully this means the most frame modifications that would be needed are leg shield cut down to shape for the narrow 90ss leg shield, and i think the 90ss handlebar is narrower and more drop style than the v90 or v100. So I would need to swap the handlebar and speedo for replica 90ss versions. Other than that it's the addition of the glove box fuel tank and the spare tire holder and cover to go under the glove box tank.

Anyone here have a 90ss frame that i could get some measurements off of? Or have done a replica of the 90ss before?

The only other thing related to if the frame doesn't need to be shortened at all is what the measurement of distance from fork tunnel at top of leg shield to front of frame below the front of the seat is?


I found this photo of measurements of the leg shield profile on smallframe message board. So I think this is close enough to get idea of that work now.



Thu Jun 10, 2021 11:53 am

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Thu Jun 10, 2021 11:53 am linkquote
The frame needs shortening at the tunnel for the gas tank/glove box to fit correctly or there is noticeable gap. I've seen pictures with it done wrong and pics where done correctly. A guy on Facebook from England does all types of SS90 conversions.

The smallframe bluebadge is a perfect start for a ss90 replica and along with most smallframe with large doors from the early 60's. I can't recall when the length was added but I think somewhere in the late 60's.

There's a lot of info out there.

Good luck!
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:08 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:08 pm linkquote
rowdyc wrote:
The frame needs shortening at the tunnel for the gas tank/glove box to fit correctly or there is noticeable gap. I've seen pictures with it done wrong and pics where done correctly.
This was my understanding also, but given the overall length is exactly the same, I'm hoping the frame doesn't need to be shortened with this specific model. If i can find an exact measurement of that gap where the tank mounts then i can know for sure if this frame needs shortening or is good as is.

Essentially my decision on converting this to a 90ss replica depends on if the frame needs to be shortened or not. I'm not confident in cutting the frame and getting it back together and structurally sound by myself. (At least for my first body modification project). But if it's good to go with no gaps as is, and it's just a matter of cutting and shaping the leg shields and swapping a headset, then I'm game!
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:26 pm

Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
 
Hooked
1958 Allstate Super Cruisaire 2005 70cc Yamaha Vino
Joined: 23 Aug 2020
Posts: 364
Location: Philadelphia
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:26 pm linkquote
I skipped page 2 so I may have missed the transition, but I love how you went from “this is staying bone stock” to “I could make a 90ss replica” in less than 3 months!
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:38 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:38 pm linkquote
FridayMatinee wrote:
I skipped page 2 so I may have missed the transition, but I love how you went from “this is staying bone stock” to “I could make a 90ss replica” in less than 3 months!
Well it was always on my mind from the beginning, buy i never gave it serious thought as every time i researched measurements, i came away with the thought that i would need to cut and shorten the frame. This is not something i want to tackle at the moment or anytime in the near future.

But I kept coming back to the idea and the other night i read up Patrick's unstealth build thread and saw that he either used a 90ss or made a 90ss replica. It got me thinking again, so this time i said f it, I'll go take measurements myself and what do you know.. Overall frame length as far as i can tell is exactly the same!

But yeah, I'm constantly oscillating between leave it bone stock, or tune the crap out of it.

Honestly though, i think if i do end up trying to make a 90ss replica, the engine wouldn't get touched until after the body is complete. I'm looking for a body project that is worth it to attempt instead of just trying to revive the rusty crap p frame i have sitting unused in my garage.
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:51 pm

Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
 
Molto Verboso
GL, PK, PE200 with hack, Sears Rust Badge
Joined: 24 Apr 2012
Posts: 1029
Location: Deep in the heart of Texas
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:51 pm linkquote
You'll need to cut it. Overall length is not the problem it is tunnel length. Went from short frame to long frame in 69 (giggity) for large door smallframes. Like curve tail to flat tail with largeframes. Don't think they reused the tooling again.

No need to measure. Just stick a tire in it and see if your gap matches this one.


If it's tight like this, no need to cut.
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:57 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 12:57 pm linkquote
rowdyc wrote:
You'll need to cut it. Overall length is not the problem it is tunnel length. Went from short frame to long frame in 69 (giggity) for large door smallframes. Like curve tail to flat tail with largeframes. Don't think they reused the tooling again.

No need to measure. Just stick a tire in it and see if your gap matches this one.


If it's tight like this, no need to cut.

Ok I'm understanding now, they added tunnel length and shortened the tail or something in transition from 60s to 70s.. Which would keep the overall length the same, but change the gap at the legs. So shortening the tunnel on one of these would also result in a too short overall length replica.

I'm sticking my spare tire in the gap now to confirm.
Thu Jun 10, 2021 1:07 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 1:07 pm linkquote
Oh well. No easy path with this frame. *Puts idea back on the table for now*

Maybe I should practice cutting a tunnel open and welding it back closed with my crap rusty p125 frame.. Just to get practice and see if i would feel confident in doing a legit replica.



Thu Jun 10, 2021 1:11 pm

Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
 
Ossessionato
1979 P150X, 1983 P200E, 1988 T5, 1995 PX200E, 2011 Yamaha Fazer 600 S2
Joined: 02 Aug 2015
Posts: 2300
Location: Veria, Greece
Thu Jun 10, 2021 1:11 pm linkquote
Lengthen the dummy tank, job done!
Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:39 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Thu Jun 10, 2021 6:39 pm linkquote
SaFiS wrote:
Lengthen the dummy tank, job done!
This is a valid option, but I think I'll leave this as is and if I ever come across a more suitable frame I'll revisit it. But it doesn't sound like this is likely either given suitable replica frames are not widely available either!

Also just spoke to gmontag who gave me the measurement I was seeking and he also mentioned the 66 bluebadge is the closest matching frame to start from.

I found this thread on the vespa smallframe board which suggests the V100 is not a great foundation for an exact replica.
https://vespasmallframeforum.proboards.com/thread/12367/ss90-start
Fri Jun 11, 2021 1:49 pm

Hooked
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 375

 
Hooked
Joined: 08 Sep 2011
Posts: 375

Fri Jun 11, 2021 1:49 pm linkquote
The repro 90ss tanks have elongated holes on the bracket part that mounts to the seat area. They would easily fit on a longer frame. It's only 2cm difference.

I think you have a pretty unique bike there and should leave it stock. Old school 4 lug hubs, no ugly USA turn signals or taillight. It's cool.
Fri Jun 11, 2021 4:04 pm

Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
 
Ossessionato
VSX, Stella 177, VNX1T, V9B1T
Joined: 20 Jul 2018
Posts: 3177
Location: Staten Island, NY
Fri Jun 11, 2021 4:04 pm linkquote
gmontag wrote:
I think you have a pretty unique bike there and should leave it stock. Old school 4 lug hubs, no ugly USA turn signals or taillight. It's cool.
I do quite like it for a slow scooter!

Speaking of, i finally checked ignition with a strobe gun and it was set really low with the marks i made for the original position. I'm sure it's probably my points set wrong or maybe the last owner changed it.

I've got it now set close to the correct 17 degrees.. Probably 18 degrees as i was using a sharpie for my marks. The plate indents are maxed out to get to 18 degrees. I would need to Dremel the plate to allow for it to be set further if for some reason i was trying to go more advanced.

Also took a few pictures of the rewired stator from matt@mercato.

Bike runs much better with the drastically advanced timing... I'm talking it was like 5-10 degrees retarded from 17.

It idles stronger now and has some more torque in first and second. Plug also no longer looks wet and rich, but correct.









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