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Hey Nomad!

Thanks- they are repop, so no holes. I see where the bolts (I have them already) go. Now I just need some good measurements so I drill in the correct locations for the trim!

And yes, I (re)painted already because I have no patience lol.
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Also, wow- I put the intake hose on and it is really smooth. Can't wait until I hear it with the cowls on.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Hey Nomad!

Thanks- they are repop, so no holes. I see where the bolts (I have them already) go. Now I just need some good measurements so I drill in the correct locations for the trim!

And yes, I (re)painted already because I have no patience lol.
If you'd like, I can remove the trims on mine and measure some distances for you in the next couple days.
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That would be amazing, thank you!!!
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Molto Verboso
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Also, wow- I put the intake hose on and it is really smooth. Can't wait until I hear it with the cowls on.
What exhaust do you have on it ?
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Basic regular exhaust.
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Anyone know where to find 180 SS emblems with longer "peening" studs? The ones I bought barely show when I put them through the holes.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
That would be amazing, thank you!!!
This is not amazing, but ok.
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Here's the cowls. [img][/img]
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^^^^
Nice work and share. Thanks for the effort and getting that 411 out there.
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I like the dedication of this community that someone would literally take apart something just to measure it for someone else.

Solid play, Nomad
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Well, others here have done the same for me. Awhile back I needed the measurements for the rear badge, and a member was kind enough to give me the measurements. Others have done other things as well.

It wasn't a big deal to remove a few 6mm bolts.

Just don't ask me for anything that involves a small frame headset. It works now, and I will not touch it unless it is absolutely necessary.🧐
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Thank you!!!! I am positive this will be helpful for many others, as I couldn't find the info anywhere
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The most critical measurements are how high the holes are from the inside crease. I measured 8mm. Any higher than that and there will be an unsightly gap between the crease and the bottom edge of the trim. Drilling too low and the trim will not sit properly along the crease.

Lateral distance of the holes isn't too critical because the trim can slide left or right to get it right before it's tightened down.

Don't over tighten the 6mm nuts or it will deform the soft aluminum trim.
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Thank you again- extremely valuable info.

Heres some current pics, its 98% there. Need to do the rails, add the shiny legsheild trim, replace the front emblem and get Speedo King to knock out the speedometer. Also, wiring issues to resolve for lights etc.

THEN it will be finished.
Shiny!
Shiny!
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wow
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That looks amazing!

Nice work! Clap emoticon Clap emoticon Clap emoticon
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Yes, it looks very nice. Be damn careful drilling those holes on the new paint. To me it still looks too low in the rear. Maybe it's just the camera angle or maybe it's ok.
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Angle. You can see the fan cover is even with the bottom of the cowl.

No funny noises anymore. (except a rattling on decel from the motor area -tinny metal sound- that is driving me NUTS)

How can I troubleshoot lighting issues? Can I connect a 6 volt battery pack to the yellow wires to light up the power with the scoot not running?
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Funny... I also have a rattle sound just off throttle that I can't solve. I thought it might be the cush springs but it acts perfectly normal on take-off or shifting and sounds very smooth driving. I am thinking it is the Sito exhaust's sound from the piston-ported cylinder. I have sprung for the Pascoli box, which I should have today, so I'll see if it changes the sound any.
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May be the exhaust, it resonates like the cylinder cowl though. I'll investigate this weekend and report back. FYI, my exhaust is the regular repop one, so brand new
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The Pascoli came today but the tail pipe was attached at an upward angle so the end was contacting the case before the bracket lined up. I had to kerf the underside of the pipe at the base and bend it down a bit and weld it up.
I haven't gone far on it but so far I love it. Much smoother sounding, and the metallic rapping seems to be gone. I'll get out tomorrow for a longer ride but I think that noise is exhaust related and the tinny box of the 'stock' one is making it sound that way.
For once, the bolt immediately caught the nut on the bracket .
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I did a couple of miles this morning and all I can say is it's a huge improvement and, I think, worth the money. I am embarrassed to say that I found I had not pushed the choke knob in last night on my short ride, but it is even better than I thought. Pleasant sounding and seems faster than the Sito. The metallic rapping noise is all but gone. It may be subjective, but to have an increase in performance and a decrease in noise is pretty cool.
Here's mine with a rack on it that belongs to a friend. I am trying to talk him out of it because it just looks so great on the bike. ( '63 Saab 96 two stroke. )
Bill
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Moto64 wrote:
I did a couple of miles this morning and all I can say is it's a huge improvement and, I think, worth the money. I am embarrassed to say that I found I had not pushed the choke knob in last night on my short ride, but it is even better than I thought. Pleasant sounding and seems faster than the Sito. The metallic rapping noise is all but gone. It may be subjective, but to have an increase in performance and a decrease in noise is pretty cool.
Here's mine with a rack on it that belongs to a friend. I am trying to talk him out of it because it just looks so great on the bike. ( '63 Saab 96 two stroke. )
Bill
Might be a bit lean if she'll run with the choke on.
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Yes, and I will check the plug. It's been perfect with the Sito but this Pascoli may want bit more.
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Dsnyder/Moto- your bikes are looking great!
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Thanks!

Moto- can you post up some more pics of your legsheild with the rack? I have the exact one on my bajaj and may swap it over...

Although I may also use it with the new rear rack I got on my VBA project....
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This came with a '74 Rally200 I picked up and sold to a friend. I should have hung on to it. The color and patina is perfect and it's nice because you can lash something to it when it's up. I only see chrome or black powder coated ones now.
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I extended the threaded rods and put a small frame rack on the Motovespa. It's a nice size but I can't do this on the SS because the rubber cups land on the script.
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Has anyone counter sunk the flywheel bolt locations so the the bolts dont interfere with the cowl?

For the record, I dont currently have this issue, it just occured to me that this might be a good approach.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Has anyone counter sunk the flywheel bolt locations so the the bolts dont interfere with the cowl?

For the record, I dont currently have this issue, it just occured to me that this might be a good approach.
I'd think that drilling into the flywheel would lead to nothing but disaster and pain. I would avoid at all costs.

One thing I've noticed about this is that the heads of the original flywheel bolts are thinner (lower profile) than any of the aftermarket replacement bolts or bolts that can be found in a hardware store. I've been using the original bolts on both my GS and SS with no rubbing what so ever. Even with worn engine bushings on my GS, the original bolts never rubbed.

The next best thing I've seen is to use the round head Allen bolts.
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nomadinsiam wrote:
I'd think that drilling into the flywheel would lead to nothing but disaster and pain. I would avoid at all costs.

The next best thing I've seen is to use the round head Allen bolts.
Cosign
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Scooterwest has these. They are slightly lower profile.

https://www.scooterwest.com/vintage-fan-bolt-kit-for-gs160-ss180-rally.html
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Or, if you prefer hex head bolts because they look more like stock, you can get a standard bolt that fits, chuck it in your drill and grind down the head to whatever profile you like with your bench grinder or angle grinder pretty easily. It's like a freehand lathe.
I spun it on sanding pad and steel wool afterwards to polish a bit, a little more time and you could get a high polish. 

Add Loctite if you like & the thin waveform washers and you're in business.
I spun it on sanding pad and steel wool afterwards to polish a bit, a little more time and you could get a high polish. Add Loctite if you like & the thin waveform washers and you're in business.
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V oodoo wrote:
Or, if you prefer hex head bolts because they look more like stock, you can get a standard bolt that fits, chuck it in your drill and grind down the head to whatever profile you like with your bench grinder or angle grinder pretty easily. It's like a freehand lathe.
Word.

I guess over time people somehow misplace or lose the original bolts and then use standard hardware store hex bolts which, well, put a hex on the cowl louvers.
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