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That would be great. Also any shims/circlip- Here is a pic of the tail:
Just the very bottom is damaged/missing
Just the very bottom is damaged/missing
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Welding that corner is probably the best option.

The other bits look like ball peen hammer, dollys, and patience for the win. (And some filler.)
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For your tail end sheet metal, how about that frame that Greasy already cut stuff off of for your tunnel?
Maybe a happy reunion could be arranged?
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He sent the tail off to someone- I HAVE the correct gauge steel, just need to start bending I guess lol
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Your best option IMO would be to cut the corner from a donor frame and butt-weld it in. A skilled welder can do it.
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You could check with Kyle in Texas, he usually has a lot of old frames, some likely wrecks. Maybe do the rest now and see if you can't track down that corner, shouldn't be as scarce as the other bits you've managed to find.
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I think I may have found it local (LA)

Got my hubs and rims back from the powder coating!!!
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yo, if you don't come up on what you need i may have something that'll work.

also if you find your way up here feel free to hit me up and stop by for a beer if you want. i'm off work from tomorrow afternoon till late monday!
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Hey Greasy!

I am going up there on Tuesday (barring any schedule conflicts) around 1- lemme know if you are around in the afternoon and I'll swing by for a hello either before or after my scouring adventure!
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Engine cases back from dry ice and vapor blasting. Apparently, dry ice does not remove oxidation, but vapor blasting does (but leaves residue) What do you all think?

I'll do some more detail work so it will all look good and then I'll post back. Considering polishing maaaaybe.
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Toying with the idea of painting the SS red. Its originally white, but the red looks pretty, pretty good.

Since I am sticking to pretty close to original, I thought I would throw it out and see what you all think. How much "originality" do I lose with a color change, as the VIN doesn't include the color.

I am keeping it forever, so thats a factor.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Toying with the idea of painting the SS red. Its originally white, but the red looks pretty, pretty good.

Since I am sticking to pretty close to original, I thought I would throw it out and see what you all think. How much "originality" do I lose with a color change, as the VIN doesn't include the color.

I am keeping it forever, so thats a factor.
That sounds very original! There are only three color choices.

With the vapor blasting, what is the residue it leaves? Is it glass beads?

The shop I spoke to said any bearings need to be replaced after doing it, but it looks like you were able to have them cover the moving parts, and kept them intact.
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Ya, glass dust. It seems to me that I can just irrigate the bearings to remove the dust....I have already taken one stab at it, unless someone can give me a good reason why I cant irrigate and run with the bearings as is I would like to hear it.

If it were an automatic car transmission maybe, but I don't think we are dealing with super tight clearances here. Replacing the bearings isnt super expensive either so...

I had them dry ice the whole thing, then vapor blast the parts you see. When I got home, I stripped the paint and cleaned up any remaining residue. Was it worth $250? Ya, it probably saved me 4-5 hours of cleaning and preserves the Piaggio stamping and Serial#, where I would have probably worn most of it away.

Quick question- why does this motor have what looks like rotary pads, and do they need to be attended to as far as making sure they are tight to the crank and smooth?
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Looks like there is a crack/chunk missing in the fly side case where the shifter rod sticks through the hole into the shifter box? Never seen those cases before, but looks like there is a larger gap than should be towards the bottom left of the shifter rod.

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Ahh shit!

There does look like there is a chunk missing. What a fu%&g kick in the nuts.
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Could it be and I am HOPING it is just a shadow? The shape looks like could be, fingers crossed!

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Close up, that silver line bothers me, but now it looks machined in! And the other bore doesn't quite look concentric to the shaft, maybe a weird SS lubrication scheme or maybe remachined to save the case(somebody 'bumped' the machine when they did the first bore?) If the bearing is secure, shouldn't make any difference, but you better check w/ Mr B. Nest maybe or somebody w/ an SS case.
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Will check my cases when I get home and report back.
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Regardless, something else is all wrong, not original Italian. Needs TWO of these(I put a small magnet on the end to harvest the steel junk that gets loose in there).

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I guess that's probably just Italian for OIL Nerd emoticon
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An oil plug like that and then a BIG one on the bottom. (available repop)

Here are a couple close ups of the holes- I saw one on ebay with the SAME double holes, so I think it is normal, something to make getting the tree out easier I think?
Machined in, and looks purposeful.
Machined in, and looks purposeful.
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Same Same
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Conrod seems a bit loose, but the other bearings tight, so new crank and I should be bopping along. (That and another 500 tiny little impossible to find parts)

Shout out again for a hooded Rally pilot light!!! NEED.

I am playing around with beer bottle caps and may fashion my own....

We shall see.
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Just make sure it's from a respectable beer, ideally Italian.

Popcorn emoticon
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Got one of these if you need a placeholder. Same size hole, I think.
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The scallop is normal the crack/Ding isn't but looking at it on my computer it seems cosmetic.
Pic of mine...
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Looks part of the casting. It's a clean cutout as you guys said, and even if it weren't correct, it wouldn't cause Problems cause there is no oil seal there anyways, and the cutout still leaves enough surface for the bearing to seat against.

Funny how later lml cases had the opposite in that spot. A straight wall that blocks part of the hole making it harder to get that bearing out.

Must have been a specific reason from switching from one to the other.
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Access to the back of the bearing for removal?
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V oodoo wrote:
... but now it looks machined in! And the other bore doesn't quite look concentric to the shaft, maybe a weird SS lubrication scheme ...
So it is on purpose and maybe was a way to ensure oil to the lower batwing action, but they found that the expensive extra machining operation was not really needed on lesser models?

It's typical SS180 deluxe, hang the expense style!
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Sometimes I feel like I am narrating my own movie, but I suppose it will be nice to have a record of this endeavor-

Christmas again today! Little bits at a time, I get what I need to complete the project....
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swiss1939 wrote:
Looks like there is a crack/chunk missing in the fly side case where the shifter rod sticks through the hole into the shifter box? Never seen those cases before, but looks like there is a larger gap than should be towards the bottom left of the shifter rod.

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That offset hole that the shifter rod goes through is correct. Mine is the same. Why it's drilled out that way, I'm not certain, but as noted above, it's probably to ease removal of the bearing and aid in oil sloshing left to right.

I love how these old engines don't have oil pumps, but rely on oil being ramped and swizzled about to lubricate gears and bearings.
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Getting closer! My only advise - please put new bearings after showing them all with glass bead vapor blasting. No amount of washing will rinse it all away, and new bearings. Little bit of grit will destroy those bearings and possibly other parts in no time at all. New bearings are a small price to pay for long term longevity.
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GeekLion wrote:
Getting closer! My only advise - please put new bearings after showing them all with glass bead vapor blasting. No amount of washing will rinse it all away, and new bearings. Little bit of grit will destroy those bearings and possibly other parts in no time at all. New bearings are a small price to pay for long term longevity.
I agree. The bearings staying in during blasting are only there as shields to prevent the aluminum engine surface from bring affected (you probably knew that). They should never be intended for reuse. Like others have said, bearings are a small price to pay. Literally, they are cheap, non-NOS disposable items not worth saving unless you are really strapped for cash or living in a region where parts are unavailable (Cuba? North Korea?).
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Thanks for the input- good call, I'll replace all bearings. Was more of a labor vs cost issue because lazy and don't want to damage cases.
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Ok, quick question:

With the gap between the top and bottom of the horncast, should I:

A: fill it with filler, then sand it low, then paint will fill in to about 90%
B: leave the gap, it will fill in with paint (but possibly suck it in unevenly)
C: tape it off, then fill with primer to taste, sand even then paint
D: I am way off here, the correct way is....

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D. It's fine.
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SoCalGuy wrote:
D. It's fine.
Looks good to me!
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Ok, let me rephrase:

Will it look factory correct if I leave the gap? Is a gap AFTER paint ok?

Not obsessing, just want to make sure I get it as close as possible to original. Its the focal point on the front, right after the badge..
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Ok, let me rephrase:

Will it look factory correct if I leave the gap? Is a gap AFTER paint ok?

Not obsessing, just want to make sure I get it as close as possible to original. Its the focal point on the front, right after the badge..
It's hard to tell from the photo. Does it look like this?

The top piece tapers off, and the bottom one has more of a hard edge.
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Ok, big haul today.

Much thanks to Kristian at Bar Italia for hosting my visit and being a great resource for my unending questions. Great person, great conversation.

By this weekend I *should* have parts enough to build the motor. I still have bodywork to do, but not a ton. Once the motor is built, I'll assemble and test fit everything. (OH, also START the motor.) By next Monday? Is it even possible? Stay tuned.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Conrod seems a bit loose...
I believe this is normal. Mine is the same. I installed a new crank and new conrod bearing and there was slight movement as well.
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Ok, quick question:

With the gap between the top and bottom

Pic for reference
That's a hard one for me to answer. I wouldn't use bondo, but maybe squeeze in seam sealer, wipe off excess and sand when dry. Just use a high grade automotive seam sealer that won't peel out later. Like I said, that's a hard one for me to answer.
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