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chandlerman wrote:
If it's the original spacer, it should be correct unless the new shock is shorter.

It's tough to get things like that right, because even the "Grade A - Perfect repair" stuff is often only approximately correct.

For example, the "correct" replacement spring for my GL wasn't even close. Waaaay too short. I wound up refinishing the original spring to get it right.
This is a good post. All the “Grade A perfect repair” business is often total BS.
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External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

I dunno if it's correct for an SS, but I use the spacer that gets the fan cover slots closest to parallel with the slots in the cowl because shocks can vary in length. Can't tell from the pic where you're at though... Bike sure is looking killer regardless!
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From that photo, to me it looks too low. Just get a fat person to push down real hard whilst sitting on it to check whether the air cleaner bangs the inside of the cowl. Better to check that now while it’s still in primer.
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nomadinsiam wrote:
From that photo, to me it looks too low. Just get a fat person to push down real hard whilst sitting on it to check whether the air cleaner bangs the inside of the cowl. Better to check that now while it’s still in primer.
Thanks- I will do that!!
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Do you have a center mat and trim?
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SoCalGuy wrote:
Do you have a center mat and trim?
Yes, I should probs put the center mat on for fit also.
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You know about the tendency of the fan bolts to trash the cowl louvres? A simple mod is to replace them with round cap hex bolts.
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gmontag wrote:
You know about the tendency of the fan bolts to trash the cowl louvres? A simple mod is to replace them with round cap hex bolts.
... and hand spin that flywheel with the cowl in place. Even with roundheads the repop cowls may need some bending/persuasion/reshaping to avoid facking up the louvers.
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Wow, tremendous progress! Looking good.
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Cleaned up the Stator and replaced a couple wires- came out pretty good. Used fabric wrapped wire because, well- I think its cool.
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I noticed the fabric tends to unravel and turn rather shatty. I got rid of it in favor of normal plastic coated wires. But, do whatever works.
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It was brought to my attention by someone MUCH more experienced than I that the rake did not look correct, and they were right. I did a small amount of tweaking and it is now spot on. See if you can see the difference.

Also, It looks like the shock IS a little on the short/saggy side, so I will be putting a shock spacer on it.
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Looks ok now. What entailed “tweaking” the rake?

What’s that hole for in the right side of the headset?
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nomadinsiam wrote:
Looks ok now. What entailed “tweaking” the rake?

What’s that hole for in the right side of the headset?
Wood, jack, slow pressure.

The holes are for the headlight housing.
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So I am planning to paint next Friday, barring hurricane winds or anything else.

How much paint will I use for 4 coats?

Wire and cable routing- what do I need to know? I saw on Geek Lions thread a mention of routing on the P he is restoring, so I want to make sure I do it correctly. Gonna use fishtape and pull strings.
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Wire harness from back to front (drop a fish from the horn to the area below the gas tank, then drop a fish down to the horn from the headset). Also... learn to tie a good pullmans knot. (My favorite pull line is actually old 7wt or 8wt flyfishing line.)

outer cables from either direction

inner cables from front to back

speedo cable is it's own animal.

YMMV
Gear cable boogaloo
Gear cable boogaloo
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Awesome- thank you!!!!

Any idea how much Paint im gonna use?
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no clue on paint quantity.

Most I have ever painted is cowls and a headset. Used maybe 3/4 of a quart. (But... I had a ton of lost/bad paint due to hardner/reducer issues.)
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For paint, I'll guess you're going to need a couple quarts. I did two coats of color and two clear on my GL and used a little more than two quarts in total.

Maybe less if you don't screw up and have to sand off and re-do several sections...
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Ok, just a verbal update- no pics

1. I am going to run fishing line BEFORE paint so that when I pull the cables I wont be doing damage trying to fish em around.

2. I have the cowls to fine tune and a few small imperfections in the body, then Thursday re-sand everything and prime white.

3. The stand brackets are directional. If installed backwards, the stand is not tall enough and they put pressure on the NON support part of the frame. Noted.

4. I need to time the motor- which direction does the cam go? I understand it matters, but I do not see a stamp on it to tell.

I am going to use some (wrong color white) paint on the inside areas to cover, then hit them with a quick blast of the correct white. This should use less paint. Thoughts?

Thanks in advance!
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rails are all fitted and ready to go? That was the only thing that really put paint at risk which I could have avoided had I done it before painting.

As to the paint on the inside, no one will ever know if you only shoot the exact right white as the top coat. No one would know but you if you just used the wrong white on the inside anyways because it'll be...well...inside
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I prefit the rails and then removed them (used screws and nuts).

Need to figure out what to put under them when I fit to avoid damage (plastic wrap?)
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Very thick construction paper.


(Also... fishing line... you want fly-line, no mono or fluorocarbon. Get the thick ass stuff you see in River Runs Through It... not the tippet.)
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Inside the frame under the fuel tank on my original paint SS had primer showing through the white. So, yea, non-correct white should be fine. 👍
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Birdsnest wrote:
Very thick construction paper.


(Also... fishing line... you want fly-line, no mono or fluorocarbon. Get the thick ass stuff you see in River Runs Through It... not the tippet.)
Got exactly this stuff after you mentioned!
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dsnyder586 wrote:
4. I need to time the motor- which direction does the cam go? I understand it matters, but I do not see a stamp on it to tell.
It should say “Lato Esterno”, meaning external side, stamped into it. That side, of course, faces out away from the motor. If it doesn’t have that stamp, then it may be the wrong part.
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Its HAPPENING PEOPLE!!

FYI- this is WHITE but it looks gray on my screen.
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⚠️ Last edited by dsnyder586 on UTC; edited 1 time
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So tomorrow's plan (in between those pesky customer calls) is to hit the less seen areas medium, the top parts light first pass. Second pass, hit the top parts medium, light on the not seen parts. Third pass, top parts medium, light on the less seen and finally, one more pass, hitting them all medium. Its hot so (at the advice of Kristian) I will be dropping the reducer to 10-5% to slow the dry time and flow better. I am using a pressure tank feed and a pricey gun, so hopefully it will flow and lay down nice and smooth.

Should use what I have in paint less a tiny bit for touch up. I cant really see the bottom of the frame when it is on the jack handle (clever, I know) so I think I am going to shoot the bottom FIRST with a heavy coat, then put it on the jack handle on carry on. I messed up on the gun settings with the primer, so I will be sanding a bit tomorrow before paint...... Also, I heard on a youtube video that clear on the bottom after single stage is good to prevent damage- I am open to ideas here, although it will see only a moderate amount of road use. (I know, I will ride her as much as I can)

Any gun setting advice for the beginner? I am using a binks Trophy pressure feed gun and a small tank. (single stage)
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Also, there are some youtube gurus who say add some 2 stage clear to the final coat of single stage- what say ye?
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Also, there are some youtube gurus who say add some 2 stage clear to the final coat of single stage- what say ye?
Doesn’t that defeat the whole idea of using single-stage paint? That’s odd that someone would suggest that.

What do they mean by “add”, mix or apply over? Either way, I see no point. Single-stage means just that, single-stage; two-stage means two-stage
⚠️ Last edited by nomadinsiam on UTC; edited 1 time
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nomadinsiam wrote:
Doesn’t that defeat the whole idea of using single-stage paint? That’s odd that someone would suggest that.
:Shrugs shoulders: I think all single has some clear in it, but maybe adding gives it more gloss? I am completely in the dark on this one- thank you for chiming in!
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Also, for reference- here is where I started:
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dsnyder586 wrote:
:Shrugs shoulders: I think all single has some clear in it, but maybe adding gives it more gloss? I am completely in the dark on this one- thank you for chiming in!
That might be right. I don’t know enough about the actual content of single-stage paint. Single-stage just dries to a gloss. Two-stage dries to a dull finish and must have the clear to seal it and give it gloss.

I do think that many people prefer the single-stage look precisely because it doesn’t have such a high-gloss look.
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The thing with todays single stage paint…. its no way as durable/long lasting as the old original lead single stage paint that came with these machines (not counting that silver from the 70s and early 80s). Single stage can be buffed to a shine but todays single stage paint almost needs some type of protectant on it. Wax, ceramic coat, Matt gloss…maybe but something. Not a fan of high gloss on these things and I wonder will it eventually get that gloss peal like what u see on an older car.

It’s basically up to you on the look ur going for. Do more research to make sure ur getting what u want.
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DuPont Centari paint was the best, but highly toxic. I believe it’s no longer produced.
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I'd be VERY hesitant to add clear coat to single stage paint because they're going to be different formulations and thus won't mix properly, leading to pain down the road. It's what we call an "unsupported configuration" in my line of work, which is a polite way of saying, "This will blow up in your face if you try it, and when it does, don't call me." Razz emoticon

You can polish up single stage paint to insane levels of gloss. Do it before you re-assemble for ease and consistency of coverage and you'll be happier with the result. Also, since you're going for Period Correct, keep it period correct, including the gloss of the paint, or it will never look right, no matter how well done it is.

Your work to date is outstanding. Now is not the time to go off-script on this amazing build!
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It’s a very common technique to mix some clear gloss in with the last coat of a single stage. It’s done all the time. In fact, Nason states on its data sheet for its single stage Ful-Thane:

“To enhance the depth of color and provide a custom look, add Ful-Thane® 401-22TM Low VOC Integrated Gloss Enhancer. Activate sufficient gloss enhancer to complete the finish and mix 4 parts of the activated enhancer with 1 part activated Ful-Thane® IS color. Air drying the finish will produce the best results.”

Just don’t combine products from different manufacturers.

I’ve said this 100 times and will say again ... read the manufacturer’s technical data sheet before you spray.
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SoCalGuy wrote:
It’s a very common technique to mix some clear gloss in with the last coat of a single stage. It’s done all the time. In fact, Nason states on its data sheet for its single stage Ful-Thane:

“To enhance the depth of color and provide a custom look, add Ful-Thane® 401-22TM Low VOC Integrated Gloss Enhancer. Activate sufficient gloss enhancer to complete the finish and mix 4 parts of the activated enhancer with 1 part activated Ful-Thane® IS color. Air drying the finish will produce the best results.”

Just don’t combine products from different manufacturers.

I’ve said this 100 times and will say again ... read the manufacturer’s technical data sheet before you spray.
Excellent- thank you!

T-minus 5 hours and 2 minutes until shoot....
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dsnyder586 wrote:
Excellent- thank you!

T-minus 5 hours and 2 minutes until shoot....
There you have it.
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Good luck! Very exciting stuff
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