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@nickton avatar
UTC

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
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Hooked
@nickton avatar
GS-150 VS4
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Posts: 172
Location: Vallejo, CA
UTC quote
Hello everyone. I was just wondering if anyone else does this with their brake pedal: Tap the holding pin hole and use a threaded set screw unstead of the standard pounded in rivet like pin. It makes removal much easier:
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
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UTC

Ossessionato
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Location: Racing Capital of the World
 
Ossessionato
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UTC quote
Not a good idea.

Just use a new standard pin and use anti-seize grease. let's just say if this standard pin is in there really good from 1958, you could remove the head, slide the lever off, heat the round stock, and tap the pin out. If you tap the round stock, install a threaded screw and it seizes up, you will regret it. just use a new pin and some anti-seize grease and life is good.
OP
@nickton avatar
UTC

Hooked
GS-150 VS4
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Location: Vallejo, CA
 
Hooked
@nickton avatar
GS-150 VS4
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Location: Vallejo, CA
UTC quote
Sound advice I'm sure, but it's too late now. I also have a home made cable holding situation where I need to remove the pedal each time I want to tighten the brake cable. I guess I'll leave it until I can aquire the correct parts. It's admittedly a bit of a bodge.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@v_oodoo avatar
UTC

Style Maven
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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Style Maven
@v_oodoo avatar
'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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UTC quote
Alternative bodge if you're in a hurry
Twice that damn little pin has got lost on me and both times it would have been a giant PAIN to order and wait for just a new replacement. So what to do? It turns out that a smooth galvanized 16 penny nail is just the right size to slip in easily and won't get rusted in there. If you can find galvanized 16D finish nails, just cut to length, grease it up and slip it in. Big enough to do the job safely and small enough to pop out easily from below. If it's a regular 16D nail, you'll have to grind down the head diameter some.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
I agree on not using a threaded screw. Anything threaded will corrode and seize from the rain and then eventually it will be very difficult or impossible to remove. When I first acquired my GS, it had a sheet metal screw in there, and it was absolute hell getting it out.

Your brake switch seems to have an oversized screw in the upper mounting hole which has cracked the plastic. Piaggio designed almost everything for good reasons.
@moto64 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
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Molto Verboso
@moto64 avatar
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
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UTC quote
I think what you see is a washer under the screw.

"I also have a home made cable holding situation where I need to remove the pedal each time I want to tighten the brake cable. " Adjustment is done at the rear. No need to take the pedal off.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
Moto64 wrote:
I think what you see is a washer under the screw.

"I also have a home made cable holding situation where I need to remove the pedal each time I want to tighten the brake cable. " Adjustment is done at the rear. No need to take the pedal off.
I would never imagine adjusting cable tension at the pedal. That's unnecessary self-inflicted misery.
@ray8 avatar
UTC

Molto Verboso
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Molto Verboso
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UTC quote
nickton wrote:
Sound advice I'm sure, but it's too late now. I also have a home made cable holding situation where I need to remove the pedal each time I want to tighten the brake cable. I guess I'll leave it until I can aquire the correct parts. It's admittedly a bit of a bodge.
Looks like you're using a shifter cable as a brake cable, with way too much slack. The correct brake cable is quite a bit thicker and durable. And the pedal should look like it just just watched a rerun of Baywatch.
You can order the correct cable, connector, and brake light switch for like 20 bucks from Bar Italia Classics online. Don't mess with that most essential part of your bike.
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
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UTC quote
Now that I really look at that photo, it appears to be quite bodged and dangerous. I didn't notice how thin the cable is.
⚠️ Last edited by nomadinsiam on UTC; edited 1 time
@greasy125 avatar
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Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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Weird 80's Vespas & Cool Vintage Lambrettas
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UTC quote
Ohhh... this is jank-tastic!

Let's see the brake side of things!

-g
UTC

Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
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Location: Siam
 
Ossessionato
Vespas 1964 GS160, 1965 SS180, 1977 V9A1T, 1983 PX150E
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2537
Location: Siam
UTC quote
Moto64 wrote:
I think what you see is a washer under the screw.
I can only imagine that is to offset the crack in the plastic.

Anyway, it's fukt up. I wonder how the rest of the machine looks. One can only ponder.
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