OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
updates will be slow for a while, mainly waiting for parts to ship...
@smallframenyc avatar
UTC

Hooked
'79 - V90 =//= 2005 - ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 179
Location: Brooklyn, New York
 
Hooked
@smallframenyc avatar
'79 - V90 =//= 2005 - ET2
Joined: UTC
Posts: 179
Location: Brooklyn, New York
UTC quote
Did you find a LH door to use for making replicas?
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
yep!
@voltspa avatar
UTC

Lurker
1974 Vespa Primavera 125, 1964 Vespa 90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: Sebastopol, CA
 
Lurker
@voltspa avatar
1974 Vespa Primavera 125, 1964 Vespa 90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: Sebastopol, CA
UTC quote
Hi all,
I've been lurking on a few threads on this forum and others, gathering A LOT of good information... Big Thanks to all of you for sharing as you go along, specifically Jim and Saturn. I'm so grateful and inspired.

My project is a small frame, VMA2T 1974 primavera 125 that I have owned since 1989. I plan to use the QS 4k motor and make a 20s9p battery.

If I could ask a couple questions:

Swing arm: Saturn, what is your plan? Do you have a good diagram for the small frame? Will Jim's design for his large frame possibly work?

Controller: When I inquired about the 4k hub motor from QS they responded with a suggestion to use their 100A EM-100 controller. Is there a good reason to go with the Kelly controller you both mention and not this one?
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
Voltspa wrote:
Hi all,
I've been lurking on a few threads on this forum and others, gathering A LOT of good information... Big Thanks to all of you for sharing as you go along, specifically Jim and Saturn. I'm so grateful and inspired.

My project is a small frame, VMA2T 1974 primavera 125 that I have owned since 1989. I plan to use the QS 4k motor and make a 20s9p battery.

If I could ask a couple questions:

Swing arm: Saturn, what is your plan? Do you have a good diagram for the small frame? Will Jim's design for his large frame possibly work?
I believe the swingarm I designed will work on a small frame. Measure the pivot point to see.
Quote:
Controller: When I inquired about the 4k hub motor from QS they responded with a suggestion to use their 100A EM-100 controller. Is there a good reason to go with the Kelly controller you both mention and not this one?
In my opinion 100 amps will not be enough. I have seen as high as 240 amps under load. The Kelly I use easily handles it.
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
Voltspa wrote:
Swing arm: Saturn, what is your plan? Do you have a good diagram for the small frame? Will Jim's design for his large frame possibly work?

Controller: When I inquired about the 4k hub motor from QS they responded with a suggestion to use their 100A EM-100 controller. Is there a good reason to go with the Kelly controller you both mention and not this one?
I will likely fabricate a custom swingarm as I plan on possibly creating kits, and want to make something that can be easily reproduced and adjusted. I'm also going to run wider tires and will want to use a non-Vespa shock to allow for more clearance.

as for controller, the Kelly KLS7245N controller is what I went with:

http://www.qs-motor.com/product/kelly-controller-kls7245n-30v-72v-270a-sealed-sinusoidal-bldc-motor-controller-for-4000w-5000w-motor/

here's what I ordered from QS Motor:

- 10 inch 4kw (7kw peak) hub with disc rotor: $290
- rear brake caliper and bracket: $20
- controller and wiring(Kelly KLS7245N): $230

Robert (info@qs-motor.com) invoiced me directly via PayPal.

See above for other parts I ordered (electronic throttle cable-driven controller) etc. I didn't want to use their "kit" as it had things that don't fit on a Vespa. I'm going to use a cable driven remote-mounted master cylinder for the rear brake and the Grimeca kit for the front.
@voltspa avatar
UTC

Lurker
1974 Vespa Primavera 125, 1964 Vespa 90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: Sebastopol, CA
 
Lurker
@voltspa avatar
1974 Vespa Primavera 125, 1964 Vespa 90
Joined: UTC
Posts: 2
Location: Sebastopol, CA
UTC quote
Saturn,
Awesome, thanks. I'd love to do a cable-actuated hydraulic disc brake for the rear as well, can you post a link to where you are sourcing that?

Jim,
I dropped my motor and took some quick measurements and indeed the small frame is smaller all around: Shorter distance from pivot to wheel center and narrower at the pivot point. My shock connection point is also much further back than your swing arm design. Was that a decision you made to allow more room for other equipment in there or is that generally where that model had it mounted?

I also forgot to mention and thank Resistor as an inspiration! I'm pretty sure he was the first conversion I discovered on the internets.

I'll start my own thread when I am really able to get serious about this.
In the meantime I'll keep bugging you guys here, Thanks![/quote]
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
the swingarm is going to have different geometry between SF and LF.

as for cable-actuated remote master cylinder... any motorcycle/gokart style cylinder with the proper diameter fittings should "work" - I need to wait and see what the brake caliper on the QS Motor hub is like before ordering something. but I assume a Grimca style remote master will work:

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/brake-master-cylinder-grimeca-front-bottom_17620000

I had planned to hide it in this box (when back in stock)

https://www.scooter-center.com/en/glove-box-oem-quality-vespa-v50-v90-pv125-et3-unpainted-without-brackets-6950009

probably run a hard line to the swingarm start, then a braided soft line to the caliper - this way it's sitting above the brake and isn't modifying the stock handlebars
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⚠️ Last edited by saturn on UTC; edited 1 time
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
Voltspa wrote:
Saturn,
Awesome, thanks. I'd love to do a cable-actuated hydraulic disc brake for the rear as well, can you post a link to where you are sourcing that?

Jim,
I dropped my motor and took some quick measurements and indeed the small frame is smaller all around: Shorter distance from pivot to wheel center and narrower at the pivot point. My shock connection point is also much further back than your swing arm design. Was that a decision you made to allow more room for other equipment in there or is that generally where that model had it mounted?

I also forgot to mention and thank Resistor as an inspiration! I'm pretty sure he was the first conversion I discovered on the internets.

I'll start my own thread when I am really able to get serious about this.
In the meantime I'll keep bugging you guys here, Thanks!
[/quote]

Interesting to note. I used the original motor and swingarm orientation and measurements to create mine, so you should adjust appropriately.
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
40 batteries arrived. the other shipment of the BMS and other components was "canceled" without explanation... so I'll wait to see what's going on there.

I somehow vastly over-estimated how large these cells are, which is good news because I could easily fit 4x this amount (160 total, or more) in the area where the gas tank used to be located... which means more power!

also odd: these shipped direct from California, not China (they were just in this small box inside a plastic envelope) which is annoying because they took so long to show up.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
saturn wrote:
40 batteries arrived. the other shipment of the BMS and other components was "canceled" without explanation... so I'll wait to see what's going on there.

I somehow vastly over-estimated how large these cells are, which is good news because I could easily fit 4x this amount (160 total, or more) in the area where the gas tank used to be located... which means more power!

also odd: these shipped direct from California, not China (they were just in this small box inside a plastic envelope) which is annoying because they took so long to show up.
18650 - 18mm in diameter, 65mm in length.
UTC

parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4920
 
parallelogramerist
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4920
UTC quote
saturn wrote:
the swingarm is going to have different geometry between SF and LF.

as for cable-actuated remote master cylinder... any motorcycle/gokart style cylinder with the proper diameter fittings should "work" - I need to wait and see what the brake caliper on the QS Motor hub is like before ordering something. but I assume a Grimca style remote master will work:

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/brake-master-cylinder-grimeca-front-bottom_17620000

I had planned to hide it in this box (when back in stock)

https://www.scooter-center.com/en/glove-box-oem-quality-vespa-v50-v90-pv125-et3-unpainted-without-brackets-6950009

probably run a hard line to the swingarm start, then a braided soft line to the caliper - this way it's sitting above the brake and isn't modifying the stock handlebars

the Grimeca front brake kit (if you can find it in stock) comes in a few varieties but part numbers include 30017000 30015000 etc (basically different colors and styles). this kit replaces the front hub and mounts the master cylinder to the front fork. it's also cable-actuated and won't modify your handlebars.
Someone say Grimeca remote master cylinders?..
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
yep, aware now, for some reason I was way off and didn't think I could fit very many inside the frame.
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Someone say Grimeca remote master cylinders?..
looking to part ways with these items?

edit: thanks!!!
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
parts arrived!

the disc brakes came with a Chinese-branded handlebar-mounted (clamp) master cylinder which I won't be using (but might come in handy on another project).

the hub itself is the version with fancier CNC aluminum covers ("style B"). I considered ordering the flat style one ("Style A" - which looks 'stock' on a vintage Vespa) but I already ordered a tubeless front rim with a similar ridiculous design.

brakes look like typical no-name Asian-made two-pot things. should be sufficient to stop a vintage bike.

still waiting on a few other small parts. also, SIP messed up my order for the legshield metal and just ... didn't ship it at all. so waiting to figure that out (no response for about a week from them).

also need to build the battery.

all that's left beyond that is small things like hydraulic lines, nuts and bolts, front brake kit, fabricating a swingarm, and paint. so far I'm in about $1,700 for the entire project.

note: if you order this via email from QS Motor, be sure to ask they throw in the bluetooth controller! (I did and it was in the box, free of charge).
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
anyone have pointers on the fork setup?

I just noticed the front hub is cracked and it looks like the spindle is damaged as well

I had planned on using the grimeca disc kit but it looks like those only fit on P forks

any smallframe nerds want to chime in with advice? I am comfortable welding etc if there's an inexpensive method to convert a fork...

edit: I'm going with the crimaz bolt-on smallframe disc conversion - best mix of cost and quality. only other option I could find was buying a PK fork ($200-300) and a kit that fits that fork ($500-600)

the crimaz SF disc kit and a pair of nice aftermarket shocks is under $750 from SIP - no brainer!

https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/disc-brake-crimaz-20-rdp-front_30023100
https://www.sip-scootershop.com/en/product/shock-absorber-kit-yss-x-pro-series-front-rear_YSS50910
⚠️ Last edited by saturn on UTC; edited 1 time
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
battery question:

my stats are as follows:

Model: NRC18650B
Capacity: 3200-3400mAh
Charge Voltage: 4.2V
Rated Voltage: 3.7V
Discharge Current: Max. 20A
Rechargeable: >1000 cycles, theoretically
Chemistry: Li-ion
Battery Top: Flat
Color: Green
Net Weight: About 46g/pcs
Size(HxD): about 6.5X 1.8cm

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32771532107.html

I purchased 20*2 (40 cells total) and my math is as follows:

cells: 40
series: 2
voltage (per cell): 3.7v
amps (per cell): 3.4ah
max discharge (per cell): 20a

making:

total volts: 74v
total amps: 40a
total watts: 2960

is this correct?

and if I purchase another 40 cells and run them in parallel with the 2x seriies, would this create a 72v 5920w pack? if this is accurate, I'll have a ton of space remaining...

so my idea for a super capacitor is to use a bunch of smaller capacitors stuffed into the bench seat (or if I have spare space in the unibody) to help with voltage sag and for re-gen, like what they did on this project
plan is to connect this in parallel with the 72v li-ion cell (which will have a BMS)
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
I'm not sure of the math, endless sphere would help with that, but I know that I often pull 60 amp continuous at 45mph, and on hills and hard acceleration I have peaked at 200 amps. Sustained high amps can cause my circuit breaker to trip.
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
well my understanding is if I double my current setup (40 cells / 20+20) to 80 cells (40+40) it'd double the max amps?

so one 72v 5920w (80a peak) pack?
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
update: SIP messed up my order and never shipped it... and overcharged me somehow by hundreds of dollars (their IT and accounting department have no explanation) - so things are on hold until I get parts

I ordered a new leg shield and floorboard, 4 bottom reinforcement panels, horn cast/emblem front pieces, Crimaz disc conversion, and new beefy shocks...

pretty sure I have everything else I need other than a seat, which I plan to custom-fabricate.

can any electrical wizards chime in about my battery math in the post above?
@resistor avatar
UTC

Member
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
 
Member
@resistor avatar
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
UTC quote
Not a wizard, but I think your calculation is a bit off. I would recommend a book called "DIY Lithium Batteries: How to Build your Own Battery Packs" by Micah Toll. In it, he explains the mechanics of calculating battery size and construction methods. It would be tremendously helpful for you as the task of building your own battery is somewhat daunting.

Using the 18650 cells, you will likely need a battery that has a least 20 cells in Series times 10 cells in parallel, or a 20S10P battery. That should give you 74V and 34Ah using the specs you provided on the cells. That means you will need 200 cells rather than 80. The cells in series provide the voltage, while the ones in parallel provide the capacity (Ah, or range). If you only use 80, you'll be able to go fast, but not far. You can get by with less using the 21700 cells (the ones Tesla puts in the model 3), as they are more powerful, but larger individually.

The form factor for these batteries is 195mm x 230mm x 140mm, or 7.6 x 9 x 5.5 inches. Mine fits in the cavity under the seat, with some room for other things, but these batteries weigh 24 lbs and taking them in and out of the scooter is a major PITA.

There are videos of people building their own batteries. It would be worth having a look at a few of them to get an idea of the task. Also, you'll need a spot welder to attach the nickel strips to the batteries. I looked at doing this a while ago and filed it away under the "too hard" section of my life.

Good Luck!
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
resistor wrote:
Not a wizard, but I think your calculation is a bit off. I would recommend a book called "DIY Lithium Batteries: How to Build your Own Battery Packs" by Micah Toll. In it, he explains the mechanics of calculating battery size and construction methods. It would be tremendously helpful for you as the task of building your own battery is somewhat daunting.

Using the 18650 cells, you will likely need a battery that has a least 20 cells in Series times 10 cells in parallel, or a 20S10P battery. That should give you 74V and 34Ah using the specs you provided on the cells. That means you will need 200 cells rather than 80. The cells in series provide the voltage, while the ones in parallel provide the capacity (Ah, or range). If you only use 80, you'll be able to go fast, but not far. You can get by with less using the 21700 cells (the ones Tesla puts in the model 3), as they are more powerful, but larger individually.

The form factor for these batteries is 195mm x 230mm x 140mm, or 7.6 x 9 x 5.5 inches. Mine fits in the cavity under the seat, with some room for other things, but these batteries weigh 24 lbs and taking them in and out of the scooter is a major PITA.

There are videos of people building their own batteries. It would be worth having a look at a few of them to get an idea of the task. Also, you'll need a spot welder to attach the nickel strips to the batteries. I looked at doing this a while ago and filed it away under the "too hard" section of my life.

Good Luck!
Excellent advice!

PS Thanks for all your help on mine!
@resistor avatar
UTC

Member
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
 
Member
@resistor avatar
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
UTC quote
Jim, thank you for the shout out! But I learned a lot from watching your build as well. In fact, seeing your clean and orderly wiring caused me to change my wiring design and layout. And I had already been through Electric Vespa version 1.0, so I thought I understood it really well. Your work challenged that!

Although we're definitely a fringe group within MV, the more people understand how simple and maintenance free these machines are, the more people will be inclined to keep a vintage Vespa on the road. And that's good for everybody.
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
resistor wrote:
Jim, thank you for the shout out! But I learned a lot from watching your build as well. In fact, seeing your clean and orderly wiring caused me to change my wiring design and layout. And I had already been through Electric Vespa version 1.0, so I thought I understood it really well. Your work challenged that!

Although we're definitely a fringe group within MV, the more people understand how simple and maintenance free these machines are, the more people will be inclined to keep a vintage Vespa on the road. And that's good for everybody.
I totally agree. Though definitely not for everyone, I see a real future for the electric Vespa, especially for city commuters!
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
had this project on the back burner for a little bit as I'm buying a house (!) and moving out of the city.

other than that, just wanted to update to say parts from SIP are finally arriving. had the most strange experience over the past month and a half with them, from being charged the wrong amount (and triple-charged) to shipments being delayed... finally shows as "out for delivery" so we shall see...
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
and of course just as I post this, the mail carrier is trying to squeeze the box into the lobby...

brake kit looks interesting! they use a FA hub and some custom CNC parts... no instructions, just a note written in Italian, so I hope it's easy to figure out.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
⬆️    About 3 months elapsed    ⬇️
@jimvonbaden avatar
UTC

Hooked
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
 
Hooked
@jimvonbaden avatar
P125x (4KW Hub Motor)
Joined: UTC
Posts: 409
Location: Alexandria, VA
UTC quote
Any progress?
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
not yet!

I have most of the parts and have been working on putting stuff together.

Bought a house and a lot of issues with the house came up (flooding in addition to a bug issue) so that's kept me occupied.

As it gets colder I plan on doing more on this project as well as the side panel reproductions.
⬆️    About 2 months elapsed    ⬇️
UTC

Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
 
Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
I'm converting a 57 Lambretta. Been having trouble figuring out what electrical component to buy. So far, i think i'm getting what you're getting. 4KW QS motor and Kelly controller. Following your build closely as i'm just a few steps behind you. Hope you find time for your project. I am also dealing with some home remodeling situation.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
UTC

Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
 
Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
UTC quote
kingkongshrimp wrote:
I'm converting a 57 Lambretta. Been having trouble figuring out what electrical component to buy. So far, i think i'm getting what you're getting. 4KW QS motor and Kelly controller. Following your build closely as i'm just a few steps behind you. Hope you find time for your project. I am also dealing with some home remodeling situation.
Check out Jim Vonbaden's build thread of the "VespaLectric", a P125X that he converted to electric. It uses a 4KW QS205 motor, Kelly Controller, and a custom battery built with 21700 cells.

His build thread is very detailed. His does very good work. I now own this wonderful scooter!
UTC

Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
 
Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
Thanks! Going over there now.
UTC

Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
 
Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
UTC quote
The 4KW QS205 is capable of much more than 4KW. They can easily handle bursts of 15KW.
The acceleration this motor can do on a 200# scooter is pretty damned impressive!

Make sure you buy/build a battery capable of delivering 200+ Amps to really get the performance out of the motor that it is capable of.
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
the battery pack is the only "part" I have left to build on mine - the rest is paint and body repair and assembly

here's the other thread mentioned above: First Scooter, not my first project. (Now going electric!)
UTC

Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
 
Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
UTC quote
saturn wrote:
the battery pack is the only "part" I have left to build on mine - the rest is paint and body repair and assembly

here's the other thread mentioned above: First Scooter, not my first project. (Now going electric!)
Thanks for putting the thread link, I'd meant to put it in my post.
UTC

Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
 
Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
Thanks for sharing the thread links.
I just realized there are many QS retailer selling QS hub motors and parts.
Where did you guys order your parts from?

https://www.qsmotor.com/
http://www.qs-motor.com/
http://www.cnqsmotor.com/
UTC

Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
 
Hooked
GTS250ie, P125X Electric Conversion
Joined: UTC
Posts: 160
Location: Palmyra, Pennsylvania, USA
UTC quote
OP
@saturn avatar
UTC

Hooked
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
 
Hooked
@saturn avatar
AmeriBodge
Joined: UTC
Posts: 291
Location: Undisclosed
UTC quote
I emailed "Robert" who invoiced me directly. His email is info@qs-motor.com

So I would assume qs-motor.com is the "real" QS Motor we've all been dealing with though it's possible all of them are technically the same company with different websites for different markets?
UTC

Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
 
Lurker
LD 150
Joined: UTC
Posts: 4
Location: Los Angeles
UTC quote
Just got a quote from Robert. Most likely will order from him.

Thanks!
⬆️    About 7 months elapsed    ⬇️
UTC

Lurker
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1
Location: Dublin Ireland
 
Lurker
Vespa
Joined: UTC
Posts: 1
Location: Dublin Ireland
UTC quote
Hi guys,

Following these builds with great interest.

I too have a PX80(engine seized from college days). I am converting it to electric I have ordered the 4KW motor from QS and have the KLS7245N controller. I have a 72v 30AH battery I purchased from AliExpress. Just easier as I didn't want the added difficulty of battery manangement and configuration.

Swinging arm
I have followed Jims design for the swinging arm more or less, slight differences as living in Ireland I'd need the brake calipers to be higher to keep them cleaner.

Having connected everything together(got an electronics buddy to confirm this) I cannot get the motor to spin. On twisting the trottle the wheel shudders then refuses to go any further. It's like the brake is engaging and I cannot figure out how to resolve this. Any help would be greatly appreciated

Jim,
On your schematic attached you have point 11 connected to (a second)B/Black? Is this correct? I know your controller is 7245H as I have the 7245N
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
Jim,
Why did you make a second terminal rather than connecting it like this?
Jim, Why did you make a second terminal rather than connecting it like this?
@resistor avatar
UTC

Member
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
 
Member
@resistor avatar
2013 S150; 1961 VBB
Joined: UTC
Posts: 47
Location: Dallas
UTC quote
I don't want to speak for Jim, but I may be able to help with a few of your questions. First, it is unclear from your post whether you have done the angle ID procedure prior to trying to spin your motor. Failure to do so can produce issues like you describe where your motor doesn't spin properly.

Your controller spins the motor using signals from the hall sensors in your motor. This procedure tells the controller the angle and position of these sensors so your motor will spin freely. It is an essential step with any hub motor. Unfortunately, some of these are sold as already "paired". I cannot tell you why they say that, but they are not a plug and play configuration, you must do this angle ID process.

As for your wiring question, again not speaking for Jim, but I like to have my 12v system separate from my 72V system, hence the 2 terminal situation. I didn't see your dc/dc converter in the photo, but I ground my battery to a different terminal than my converter.

Lastly, I didn't see a dc contactor in your photo, but I would advise using one. I'm sure you know they are a big relay, but they have important functions to protect your controller. If you'll PM me, I'll provide more detail as to their use and function.
DoubleGood Design banner

Modern Vespa is the premier site for modern Vespa and Piaggio scooters. Vespa GTS300, GTS250, GTV, GT200, LX150, LXS, ET4, ET2, MP3, Fuoco, Elettrica and more.

Buy Me A Coffee
 

Shop on Amazon with Modern Vespa

Modern Vespa is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com


All Content Copyright 2005-2024 by Modern Vespa.
All Rights Reserved.


[ Time: 0.0831s ][ Queries: 4 (0.0239s) ][ Debug on ][ 309 ][ Thing One ]