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@christopher_55934 avatar
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Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
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@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
Should be picking up an Allstate Sunday morning. The 8" tires aren't in great shape and I don't trust them to hold air for transport. Also not going to use the center stand for transport. What's a good way to secure it on my 4' x 8' trailer? I have plenty of ratchet straps to choose from.

Without good tires my wheel chock is out of the picture.

I really don't want to lay it on it's side for 100 miles bouncing down the road.

I have a saw and 2x4 and 2 x8 construction lumber if that helps.

In the past, I have put a set of 2 x 4 's down the center and screwed them down. Then pushed the scooter between them, then strapped the rear down with straps, one left and right. The front wheel was held in place with a wheel chock. With one across the floorboard area lightly pulling forward into the chock. No issues and went 100's of miles. The issue now is tires aren't trustworthy.
⚠️ Last edited by Christopher_55934 on UTC; edited 2 times
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parallelogramerist
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parallelogramerist
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can you simply slip a short piece of a 2x4 under the front tire in order to raise it up higher (so that the scooter fits better in your chock)?
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2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
can you simply slip a short piece of a 2x4 under the front tire in order to raise it up higher (so that the scooter fits better in your chock)?
A flat 8" tire is physically to small for my wheel chock, won't cradle the tire and hold it in place. It's the smallest tire it will hold and there's no adjustment left. If it were a 10" and flat I think I could adjust for 8" and I might get away with that.
@swiss1939 avatar
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UTC quote
I dont use a wheel chock in my truck. Normally I use a small cut of a 4x4 wood in front of tire to get the fender away from the bed wall. This last time when I picked up my smallframe, I forgot the cut of wood, but the guy had a spare tire on the smallframe. I took the spare tire off the mount and stuck it in front of the front wheel against the bed wall. It was the perfect size to fit below the fender while holding it far enough away from the wall to keep the fender from contacting it.

I know most say don't tie down on handle bars. I have canyon dancers for the handlebars and I make sure not to wratchet the front end down too much.. to prevent bars getting damaged. Just enough to hold it steady and make sure it won't move. Just seems easier to do that and be deliberate about not cranking down too much, than any other sort of strapping the front end down. I also started strapping down the back using rear rack I have installed... cause one time my stella wasn't completely straight in bed and the back tire bounced enough to move the back end further out from straight and the bike started falling to one side. Luckily I spotted it right away and I had barely started moving. Was able to fix that one quick.
flat tires.. spare tire came in handy on this one.
flat tires.. spare tire came in handy on this one.
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UTC quote
Anyone tried one of these with an 8" wheel?

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692634_200692634
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UTC quote
swiss1939 wrote:
I dont use a wheel chock in my truck. Normally I use a small cut of a 4x4 wood in front of tire to get the fender away from the bed wall. This last time when I picked up my smallframe, I forgot the cut of wood, but the guy had a spare tire on the smallframe. I took the spare tire off the mount and stuck it in front of the front wheel against the bed wall. It was the perfect size to fit below the fender while holding it far enough away from the wall to keep the fender from contacting it.

I know most say don't tie down on handle bars. I have canyon dancers for the handlebars and I make sure not to wratchet the front end down too much.. to prevent bars getting damaged. Just enough to hold it steady and make sure it won't move. Just seems easier to do that and be deliberate about not cranking down too much, than any other sort of strapping the front end down. I also started strapping down the back using rear rack I have installed... cause one time my stella wasn't completely straight in bed and the back tire bounced enough to move the back end further out from straight and the bike started falling to one side. Luckily I spotted it right away and I had barely started moving. Was able to fix that one quick.
One of my issues is my trailer is open on the sides. I don't have a front wall to pull the tire up against. Hoping something thing like one of these might work.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692634_200692634
@swiss1939 avatar
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UTC quote
Ah ok that makes sense. If your trailer is wood bottom.. you could possibly try installing this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SUWZ8C/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A9NJNMT9ZTSIP&psc=1

I thought about getting a harbor freight fold up trailer a few months ago and using a couple of these to have a way to tow some scooters. But I gave up on it cause I dont really have space to store even a fold up trailer.. nor did I have confidence in a harbor freight trailer for 1200 mile trips!

Best of luck!
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@christopher_55934 avatar
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2007 Stella 225
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UTC quote
swiss1939 wrote:
Ah ok that makes sense. If your trailer is wood bottom.. you could possibly try installing this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005SUWZ8C/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A9NJNMT9ZTSIP&psc=1

I thought about getting a harbor freight fold up trailer a few months ago and using a couple of these to have a way to tow some scooters. But I gave up on it cause I dont really have space to store even a fold up trailer.. nor did I have confidence in a harbor freight trailer for 1200 mile trips!

Best of luck!
That's what I have for a trailer, second one. Repacked the wheel bearings and installed bearing buddies. The heavy duty version came with larger diameter 12" tires, slowing bearing rotation speed down a bit.

Bought a canyon dancer off of Amazon, looks like it will fit both scooters. Should be here Friday.
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
swiss1939 wrote:
I dont use a wheel chock in my truck. Normally I use a small cut of a 4x4 wood in front of tire to get the fender away from the bed wall. This last time when I picked up my smallframe, I forgot the cut of wood, but the guy had a spare tire on the smallframe. I took the spare tire off the mount and stuck it in front of the front wheel against the bed wall. It was the perfect size to fit below the fender while holding it far enough away from the wall to keep the fender from contacting it.

I know most say don't tie down on handle bars. I have canyon dancers for the handlebars and I make sure not to wratchet the front end down too much.. to prevent bars getting damaged. Just enough to hold it steady and make sure it won't move. Just seems easier to do that and be deliberate about not cranking down too much, than any other sort of strapping the front end down. I also started strapping down the back using rear rack I have installed... cause one time my stella wasn't completely straight in bed and the back tire bounced enough to move the back end further out from straight and the bike started falling to one side. Luckily I spotted it right away and I had barely started moving. Was able to fix that one quick.
One of my issues is my trailer is open on the sides. I don't have a front wall to pull the tire up against. Hoping something thing like one of these might work.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692634_200692634
I think those chocks at northern tool are going to be even too tall for a 10" wheel. I think you would need closer to at least a 12" wheel to be able to utilize them.
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UTC quote
whodatschrome wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
swiss1939 wrote:
I dont use a wheel chock in my truck. Normally I use a small cut of a 4x4 wood in front of tire to get the fender away from the bed wall. This last time when I picked up my smallframe, I forgot the cut of wood, but the guy had a spare tire on the smallframe. I took the spare tire off the mount and stuck it in front of the front wheel against the bed wall. It was the perfect size to fit below the fender while holding it far enough away from the wall to keep the fender from contacting it.

I know most say don't tie down on handle bars. I have canyon dancers for the handlebars and I make sure not to wratchet the front end down too much.. to prevent bars getting damaged. Just enough to hold it steady and make sure it won't move. Just seems easier to do that and be deliberate about not cranking down too much, than any other sort of strapping the front end down. I also started strapping down the back using rear rack I have installed... cause one time my stella wasn't completely straight in bed and the back tire bounced enough to move the back end further out from straight and the bike started falling to one side. Luckily I spotted it right away and I had barely started moving. Was able to fix that one quick.
One of my issues is my trailer is open on the sides. I don't have a front wall to pull the tire up against. Hoping something thing like one of these might work.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692634_200692634
I think those chocks at northern tool are going to be even too tall for a 10" wheel. I think you would need closer to at least a 12" wheel to be able to utilize them.
Your correct I found a spec and there way to tall.
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UTC quote
Sit it in two old wheel rims with tyres on, then ratchet strap it down.
Should help to stop it moving around.
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UTC quote
Christopher_55934 wrote:
whodatschrome wrote:
Christopher_55934 wrote:
swiss1939 wrote:
I dont use a wheel chock in my truck. Normally I use a small cut of a 4x4 wood in front of tire to get the fender away from the bed wall. This last time when I picked up my smallframe, I forgot the cut of wood, but the guy had a spare tire on the smallframe. I took the spare tire off the mount and stuck it in front of the front wheel against the bed wall. It was the perfect size to fit below the fender while holding it far enough away from the wall to keep the fender from contacting it.

I know most say don't tie down on handle bars. I have canyon dancers for the handlebars and I make sure not to wratchet the front end down too much.. to prevent bars getting damaged. Just enough to hold it steady and make sure it won't move. Just seems easier to do that and be deliberate about not cranking down too much, than any other sort of strapping the front end down. I also started strapping down the back using rear rack I have installed... cause one time my stella wasn't completely straight in bed and the back tire bounced enough to move the back end further out from straight and the bike started falling to one side. Luckily I spotted it right away and I had barely started moving. Was able to fix that one quick.
One of my issues is my trailer is open on the sides. I don't have a front wall to pull the tire up against. Hoping something thing like one of these might work.

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200692634_200692634
I think those chocks at northern tool are going to be even too tall for a 10" wheel. I think you would need closer to at least a 12" wheel to be able to utilize them.
Your correct I found a spec and there way to tall.
I only know this because i've bought the same chocks before (from cycle gear). I ended up cutting out the support bar, bending down the upper hoop a bunch, then welding in a new (shorter) support bar.
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Stack up a few chopped 2x4's in the front of the trailer. Make it about 1/2 way height of the wheel, and with enough distance from the front; so the front fender wont hit the trailer wall.

Slide that old oily beast up in there, mash the front tire against the stack of wood.

Strap down as usual:
1 strap each side of handle bars !!! NOT on the grips !!! Position these straps so they attached to the trailer in a forward position of the handle bars. So when you tighten down, they pull the scooter down & forward. Compressing the suspension, and smashing that flat into the stack of wood blocks. Add a strap on back, around the seat bolt or through the luggage rack. Boom, all done! Shouldn't go anywhere.
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UTC quote
attach a sidecar.
or
do what GeekLion said.
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Let the air out of the tires
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Molto Verboso
Wrecked '61 VNB '65 Allstate '74 Rally 200
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UTC quote
Haven't ever used any sort of wheel chock...

Also, Patrick at PTown Scooters instructed me to never secure a bike by the bars, and I always listen to that dude.

All you really need is three tie down straps: two for the front, one for the rear.

For the front, you're going to want to separate each strap from the ratchet or clasp (depending on which type strap you're using). Each strap will now be in two pieces, a short portion, which will have the ratchet or clasp attached to it (set this aside for now), and a longer portion which will have a hook at one end, and bare strap at the other end (which threads into the ratchet/clasp).

You're going to take that bare end, double it around and thread it through the loop that attaches the hook to the opposite end. This will create a large sliding loop that will function somewhat like a slip knot. Throw that loop over the headset, and pull it tight around the neck/column, just underneath the headset.

Reattach the bare end of the strap to the ratchet/clasp that you set aside earlier. Attach the hook to the left side of your trailer/truck bed as far forward as possible.

Repeat this process for the right side.

For the rear, you simply attach each hook of your third strap as far to the rear on each side of you truck bed/trailer as possible, then pass the strap across the curved portion of the frame under the seat (right above the choke lever/oil sight glass).

Now, take your bike off the center stand and tighten all your straps until they're taut as a bowstring. Your scooter should now be rock solid and going exactly NOWHERE.

The final step is to drive it over to my place and drop it off. I'll take good care of it... Clown emoticon
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macgerk77 wrote:
Haven't ever used any sort of wheel chock...


You're going to take that bare end, double it around and thread it through the loop that attaches the hook to the opposite end. This will create a large sliding loop that will function somewhat like a slip knot. Throw that loop over the headset, and pull it tight around the neck/column, just underneath the headset.

Reattach the bare end of the strap to the ratchet/clasp that you set aside earlier. Attach the hook to the left side of your trailer/truck bed as far forward as possible.

Repeat this process for the right side.

Great advice. I've personally never had an issue, but better safe than sorry. I have tied some down this way around the neck, instead of the bars. It is more secure, and a stronger tie down point as well.

I fixed this for ya too
The final step is to drive it over to my (geeklion's) place and drop it off. I'll take good care of it... 8)
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UTC quote
I like the idea of wrapping straps around the neck, even if it bounces a bit the strap wont let go. The loop method described is basically what I use currently use, even when wrapping around tubes on the swing arms.

I have canyon dancers on order and should be at my house tomorrow. Will probably use both as extra security.

My trailer doesn't have sides installed, it is a 4' x 8' flat bed with a wooden floor. I have three 2" x 8" boards cut into 4 foot pieces and will screw them to the bed across the front for a stop. That should give me a height of 4.5" hopefully the fender tip won't be in the way. Will take a few extra pieces to build up front height if I can. I have an electric impact and some large screws from a decking project. I will also screw two, 2' x 4" to the floor a few inches to the left and right of center. I usually do that to keep a motorcycle or scooter straight. The wheels are trapped between the boards length wise that way. You don't have to tie them down as tight as your only holding the top upright the 2" x 4" keeps it from sliding left or right.
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Molto Verboso
1958 Allstate 177VMC, 1962 Allstate, Yamaha Vino 70cc
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Congrats on the new to you bike!

Everyone I think already got you covered on options for transport.
Can't wait to see the pics and follow the work!
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UTC quote
Aired up tires and they held, used canyon dancers to hold scooter upright, no issues.

Back's going flat again need to put new tires on to make my life easier.

Out of curiosity, I put 30 weight oil in the crank case gear box. Poured straight two stroke oil down the carburetor. Put two gallons of 20:1 premix in the tank. Pushed Mater a bit no luck. Poured two stroke premix down the carburetor and pushed down the drive in second gear a few times, Mater fired up then died. Tried a few more times was able to run for 30 seconds or so with the choke on before dying again.

Mater runs, need to clean out fuel system and see what I get. That's going to be a much later project. I'll collect a few parts for this fall and see what happens.
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⚠️ Last edited by Christopher_55934 on UTC; edited 4 times
@swiss1939 avatar
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Congrats. Nice scoot!
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UTC quote
Identifying What I think is a 1958 Allstate.
Identifying Mater, the Allstate 788.94493 Metal tag under seat, comes up as a 1958, VA9T as the beginning of the VIN also says 1958, in my searches. Would it be fair to say he's a 1958?


http://www.kylesscootershop.com/allstate-78894493-va9t-1958

https://www.scooterhelp.com/scooters/allstate.788.94493.html

https://www.scooterwest.com/discover-learn/large-frame-vin/

https://www.searsallstateriders.com/model/788.94493.html
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Service Manual
Anybody used this, anyone have a copy? Is it worth it?

https://www.searsallstateriders.com/store/part/788.94493-service-div28-june1958-no2.html
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'74 50s x3 '87 PK125XL '92 PK50XLS Plurimatic - & - '58 AllState '68 Sprint '66(?) Super125 and '72 DanMotor Super150
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WoW! Piston ported, and it runs! Congratulations, she is a beauty and looks straight & solid from here. Scooterhelp confirms that the motor is a 1958. You may be able to eventually remove that black and red paint, the original baby blue is pretty tuff, but not until AFTER riding season, right? And it's originally the same color as my '58 AllState ( Scruffy AllState, crappy headlight finally fixed! ). Subscribed.
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Molto Verboso
'64 Motovespa 150S (177) , '65 VBB, '66 Allstate SF, '66 180SS
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UTC quote
Nice. Was the air snorkel originally connected to the hole in the body ?
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2007 Stella 225
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Moto64 wrote:
Nice. Was the air snorkel originally connected to the hole in the body ?
Yes
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Not So Moderator
VNB VSC VMA VSX - o9c vbc vmb
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Lovely.
*watching*
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V oodoo wrote:
External inline image provided by member with no explanatory text

WoW! Piston ported, and it runs! Congratulations, she is a beauty and looks straight & solid from here. Scooterhelp confirms that the motor is a 1958. You may be able to eventually remove that black and red paint, the original baby blue is pretty tuff, but not until AFTER riding season, right? And it's originally the same color as my '58 AllState ( Scruffy AllState, crappy headlight finally fixed! ). Subscribed.
Yeah, I have to many other projects to get done this summer. When I get some free time I'll rebuild the carburetor, will get a carb rebuild kit and a few other parts on order. It wants to run with the choke on.

The body does appear to be solid and rust free, that's the reason I bought it.

The horn works, I pressed it a few times on accident.

I might try some mineral spirits just to see if the two layers of paint comes off, the original color is a Light blue like Mater on the movie Cars. I think it was the only color you could get that year.

I'd like to find a 1958 or 1959 motorcycle plate for Minnesota.
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UTC quote
Congrats Christopher - good find.
Will enjoy the unwrapping.
The thing you have to watch with the canyon dancers is unseen.
The throttle and shift tubes have unreasonably large rectangular cut outs on them - and they can begin to crack from the corners of those cut outs - inside the headset - and you don't know - until you are driving down the road holding one of them in your hand waving it around in the air connected to the bike by nothing more than basically a bit of wiring and cartilage.

Ask me how I know...

Do yourself a favor - when you get it in shape - consider replacing those tubes in any event. They are old and you have no idea what's been done with them.

https://youtu.be/6ldalpCTXHU
OP
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
charlieman22 wrote:
Congrats Christopher - good find.
Will enjoy the unwrapping.
The thing you have to watch with the canyon dancers is unseen.
The throttle and shift tubes have unreasonably large rectangular cut outs on them - and they can begin to crack from the corners of those cut outs - inside the headset - and you don't know - until you are driving down the road holding one of them in your hand waving it around in the air connected to the bike by nothing more than basically a bit of wiring and cartilage.

Ask me how I know...

Do yourself a favor - when you get it in shape - consider replacing those tubes in any event. They are old and you have no idea what's been done with them.

https://youtu.be/6ldalpCTXHU
I think that guy was drunk.

I'll split the headset and have a look one day. Will do it before I put new grips on.
OP
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
Cleaned out a plugged fuel tap, no fuel was coming out of hose in reserve or on position. Have a carburetor rebuild kit on order. Hopefully Mater will idle then, without choke on. Need to see if I have a B7HS plug in my toolbox.

OP
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
Rear shock rebuild
I was reading the service manual and see the rear shock can be rebuilt. Anyone know where I can get the seals etc?
OP
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
These arrived from Singapore today, better than nothing. If I find an original I can always swap it out.
Forum member supplied image with no explanatory text
@sdjohn avatar
UTC

Johnny Two Tone
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8539
Location: San Diego, CA
 
Johnny Two Tone
@sdjohn avatar
'15 GTS300, '86 PX125EFL, '66 VBB, '01 ET4
Joined: UTC
Posts: 8539
Location: San Diego, CA
UTC quote
As a former Michigander, I take offense at the left one - you can't even recognize the state! What is the difference between these 2? The left one is not so awesome, is the right one an original?
OP
@christopher_55934 avatar
UTC

Ossessionato
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
 
Ossessionato
@christopher_55934 avatar
2007 Stella 225
Joined: UTC
Posts: 3547
Location: Rochester, Minnesota
UTC quote
sdjohn wrote:
As a former Michigander, I take offense at the left one - you can't even recognize the state! What is the difference between these 2? The left one is not so awesome, is the right one an original?
Both knock offs, I like the right one better also, heavier, thicker metal etc. Mine is missing its original so I bought both of these to have one at least.
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